Darell
Flashaholic
I got pretty good at "solder blobbing" my older Arc AAA's so that should work quite well. Of course I'm doing all this at the same time that I'm converting my last remaining CMG to and Arc-finity anyway...
Infinity.... to dim or not to dim.
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Darell
Flashaholic
Well, if this is a "problem" it seems to affect them all. Or at least most of them. I've had about six of them at one time or another. All different colors and different mfg dates. They ALL did the same thing.
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
TURBOCHARGED!!
Well, I did it; I got bored yesterday, and did some "DestructiveLighting" on my Infinity.
Since the coating seemed to be wearing thin as it was, I decided I'd buff away the rest of the black conductive coating on the postive contact to expose the copper below, and blob-soldered a wire loop on it (to retain the solder and act as a protective coating to prevent oxidation and wearing away of the copper trace). The black stuff appears waxy when heated by the soldering iron; seems like I could just wipe it clear of the copper when I heated it with the iron.
Now the current is up to 55mA with a 1.3V battery, and much brighter, as expected, compared to the 20mA or so, going through the resistive coating. The Arc AAA draws over 100mA using the same battery, so it's still brighter, but they're much closer than before, with the prior 5:1 current draw ratio now down to about 2:1.
I also soldered a 30AWG wire wrap wire to the negative contact, and lined the perimeter of the head with it, just to make sure I have a positive negative contact there.
I'd expect less run time now, but I can't use up my AA batteries fast enough as it is, so that's an easy tradeoff. The brightness is approaching my Arc AAA level-
Anyone disappointed with the brightness of their Infinity would probably change their mind after seeing the increased brightness afforded by going to a direct connection.
The flat spot on the solder blob is the battery contact surface; I don't think there's going to be any wear issues or oxidation on it, being wiped every time it operates- plus it's easily renewed.
I'll have to get one of the blue-green ones to see what it does to that, since it's supposed to be even brighter to begin with.
Well, I did it; I got bored yesterday, and did some "DestructiveLighting" on my Infinity.
Since the coating seemed to be wearing thin as it was, I decided I'd buff away the rest of the black conductive coating on the postive contact to expose the copper below, and blob-soldered a wire loop on it (to retain the solder and act as a protective coating to prevent oxidation and wearing away of the copper trace). The black stuff appears waxy when heated by the soldering iron; seems like I could just wipe it clear of the copper when I heated it with the iron.
Now the current is up to 55mA with a 1.3V battery, and much brighter, as expected, compared to the 20mA or so, going through the resistive coating. The Arc AAA draws over 100mA using the same battery, so it's still brighter, but they're much closer than before, with the prior 5:1 current draw ratio now down to about 2:1.
I also soldered a 30AWG wire wrap wire to the negative contact, and lined the perimeter of the head with it, just to make sure I have a positive negative contact there.
I'd expect less run time now, but I can't use up my AA batteries fast enough as it is, so that's an easy tradeoff. The brightness is approaching my Arc AAA level-
Anyone disappointed with the brightness of their Infinity would probably change their mind after seeing the increased brightness afforded by going to a direct connection.
The flat spot on the solder blob is the battery contact surface; I don't think there's going to be any wear issues or oxidation on it, being wiped every time it operates- plus it's easily renewed.
I'll have to get one of the blue-green ones to see what it does to that, since it's supposed to be even brighter to begin with.
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
The 50mA from the Infinity was with an well used NiMH 1.19V battery (under load); the Arc AAA drew 98mA with the same battery (and probably a slightly lower voltage).
With a fresh alkaline battery (1.6V no load), readings were 88mA Infinity, 155mA Arc AAA.
Easiest way to measure it is by attaching the positive lead to the case ground of the head, holding the negative lead to the negative of the battery, and then placing the battery positive against the head.
By the way, putting the clip on the threads like this should be avoided, because it'll chew up the soft AL threads... take care when making the connection to avoid the threads!
Measurement with old 1.19V battery- (88mA with new alkaline)
If anyone has a meter able to measure current and an Infinity, I'd be curious to see what values you read on the stock Infinity, through the resistive coating.
Apparent brightness of the Arc AAA with an older battery, drawing 90mA, and the Infinity with the new alkaline, drawing 88mA, was nearly identical, so brightness to current draw seems to correlate pretty well.
With a fresh alkaline battery (1.6V no load), readings were 88mA Infinity, 155mA Arc AAA.
Easiest way to measure it is by attaching the positive lead to the case ground of the head, holding the negative lead to the negative of the battery, and then placing the battery positive against the head.
By the way, putting the clip on the threads like this should be avoided, because it'll chew up the soft AL threads... take care when making the connection to avoid the threads!
Measurement with old 1.19V battery- (88mA with new alkaline)
If anyone has a meter able to measure current and an Infinity, I'd be curious to see what values you read on the stock Infinity, through the resistive coating.
Apparent brightness of the Arc AAA with an older battery, drawing 90mA, and the Infinity with the new alkaline, drawing 88mA, was nearly identical, so brightness to current draw seems to correlate pretty well.
Brock
Flashaholic
I don't get it. Are you guys saying there is some sort of resistive coating on the head of the light? Wouldn't that mean they have to step the voltage up even more? I am really confused what anyone would use a resistor in front of a step up rather then just adjusting the step up?
You all got me sold on this one.. I just finished scraping off the black pad and output went from 38 Ma up to 90 Ma. What a big difference this made! I never really used my infinity much, since it's the dimest light I have, but not no more.
What a great mod!
What a great mod!
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR> I am really confused what anyone would use a resistor in front of a step up rather then just adjusting the step up? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Best I could figure the purpose of the coating is to protect the copper trace on the PCB from wear and oxidation, or for "enhanced" run time by limiting the current. You'll definitely get less run time with two to three times the current, but hey, do we really care?
Directly connecting the battery should get you even more output than using the Li battery with the original coating-
Best I could figure the purpose of the coating is to protect the copper trace on the PCB from wear and oxidation, or for "enhanced" run time by limiting the current. You'll definitely get less run time with two to three times the current, but hey, do we really care?
Directly connecting the battery should get you even more output than using the Li battery with the original coating-
Brock
Flashaholic
Odd, but ok. I will have to try it out. Thanks!
Darell
Flashaholic
Man - So much for needing the Arc/Finity mod. How easy is this!
Or the bigger question... why is this (like this)?
Or the bigger question... why is this (like this)?
It's really quite ingenious. Some resistors are carbon, and the density determines the amount of resistance. If the coating uses the same principle, then the resistor that insures the longer battery life takes up no more space than the coating on the contact. The added bonus is it can act as a variable resistance, going from dimmer to brighter with no more than tightening the head, and protecting the contacts from oxidation.
The reason would be to insure the "40 hour" advertised battery life with less components.
I doubt if the 3V AA lithiums would be good for it without the resistive coating.
The reason would be to insure the "40 hour" advertised battery life with less components.
I doubt if the 3V AA lithiums would be good for it without the resistive coating.
wow. i didn't even know some people started scraping off the black pad like i did.....cool! anyway, sad to report that one of those metal "burrs" mentioned at ledmuseum screwed up my threads and it is a bit difficult to turn now so i dont use it often. pretty bright though.
Darell
Flashaholic
Can't you just chase the threads with something? Even a stiff toothbrush should tune it up well enough to bring it back to life.
Darell
Flashaholic
Saaby - You? Quiet? The horror!
Send me some money, and I'll stop posting. I can send my paypal address if that makes it easier...
Made me laugh, Don.
Send me some money, and I'll stop posting. I can send my paypal address if that makes it easier...
Made me laugh, Don.
Graham
Flashlight Enthusiast
What are you doing still here, Darell?
Don't you have to finish packing, or practice your Chinese or something?
Graham
Don't you have to finish packing, or practice your Chinese or something?
Graham
yclo
Flashaholic*
Umm guys... I thought this thread was about people using their tooth brush on their led light?
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'd be very curious to see how the Infinity Ultra compares with this...
You should be able to clean up the threads with the edge of some fine sandpaper, angled properly to smooth it out. Harder to do if the burrs are in the case and not the head, though.
You should be able to clean up the threads with the edge of some fine sandpaper, angled properly to smooth it out. Harder to do if the burrs are in the case and not the head, though.
