Just MY "A first impression" of the D10

[Exit32]

OK. I've had my Nitecore D10 for a week now and really, really like this little light a lot. It's versatile, sturdy, and delivers big bank for the buck in my opinion. Build quality on my D10 is superb and the beam is excellent for an EDC light.

My only gripe is my inability to consistently make my D10 access maximum brightness directly using the quick double-click-and-hold method when the light is on, and the triple-click-and-hold method when the light is off, as documented in the owner's manual. All other functions -- including direct access to minimum brightness -- work consistently, exactly as expected.

I've de-greased the piston, lubed o-rings and threads with every slippery substance known to man (including synthetic brake fluid and silcone vacuum-pump grease), adjusted the D10's magic brass ring, cleaned electrical contacts, and changed batteries. No matter what I do, I am still unable to access maximum brightness directly on a consistent basis. It works only once out of every six or seven attempts.

Am I doing something wrong? Are other D10 owners having this problem? Is my D10 defective? All suggestions are appreciated.

 

[this_is_nascar]

OK. I've had my Nitecore D10 for a week now and really, really like this little light a lot. It's versatile, sturdy, and delivers big bank for the buck in my opinion. Build quality on my D10 is superb and the beam is excellent for an EDC light.

My only gripe is my inability to consistently make my D10 access maximum brightness directly using the quick double-click-and-hold method when the light is on, and the triple-click-and-hold method when the light is off, as documented in the owner's manual. All other functions -- including direct access to minimum brightness -- work consistently, exactly as expected.

I've de-greased the piston, lubed o-rings and threads with every slippery substance known to man (including synthetic brake fluid and silcone vacuum-pump grease), adjusted the D10's magic brass ring, cleaned electrical contacts, and changed batteries. No matter what I do, I am still unable to access maximum brightness directly on a consistent basis. It works only once out of every six or seven attempts.

Am I doing something wrong? Are other D10 owners having this problem? Is my D10 defective? All suggestions are appreciated.

While in the OFF position (bezel fully tightened), do CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, PRESS AND HOLD.

 

[mikekoz]

Great,

Now I want a D10 and they have vanished off of Fenixstores webpage! I do not see them (or any Nitecore's) there or on 4sevens.com. Rats! Could I be too late??

Mike

 

[HKJ]

While in the ON position (bezel fully tightened), do CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, PRESS AND HOLD.

Click + "press and hold" is enough.

 

[mikekoz]

Ignore my last post.....they are back!!:thumbsup:

Mike

 

[mightysparrow]

....

I am not an advocate of buying lights made overseas. There are design elements which originate here in the form of the Piston actuator, this makes me feel a little better (lets face it most of the designs on electronic equipment do not originate in the country of manufacture).

....

Yaesumofo

-------------------------------------------------------------

Yaesumofo: thanks for the very helpful review. I have to question a bit your statements about your reluctance to buy lights made overseas. I'm afraid that, unless the products of U.S. manufacturers and marketers compete fairly in worldwide markets, the U.S. flashlight industry might find itself in the same condition as the contemporary U.S. automobile industry. Years of protectionism and the "buy American" habits of U.S consumers have weakened the U.S. auto industry in relation to the Japanese and European automakers to the point that the recovery of U.S. automakers is becoming more and more difficult and costly.

The U.S. financiers and company owners who pushed free-market capitalism on the rest of the world when the U.S. was the undisputed champion of the game cannot now avoid the world-wide markets they created and still hope to have thriving sales of products consumers want and can afford, at competitive prices. Flashlights are no exception. Protecting U.S. flashlight businesses now could very well lead to the elimination of those businesses in the long run. :sigh:

 

[LED-holic]

OK. I've had my Nitecore D10 for a week now and really, really like this little light a lot. It's versatile, sturdy, and delivers big bank for the buck in my opinion. Build quality on my D10 is superb and the beam is excellent for an EDC light.

My only gripe is my inability to consistently make my D10 access maximum brightness directly using the quick double-click-and-hold method when the light is on, and the triple-click-and-hold method when the light is off, as documented in the owner's manual. All other functions -- including direct access to minimum brightness -- work consistently, exactly as expected.

I've de-greased the piston, lubed o-rings and threads with every slippery substance known to man (including synthetic brake fluid and silcone vacuum-pump grease), adjusted the D10's magic brass ring, cleaned electrical contacts, and changed batteries. No matter what I do, I am still unable to access maximum brightness directly on a consistent basis. It works only once out of every six or seven attempts.

Am I doing something wrong? Are other D10 owners having this problem? Is my D10 defective? All suggestions are appreciated.

Give it some time. When I first got the light, my success rate to go to max was like 50%. After playing with it for a week, my success rate is now around 95%. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy.

So don't give up, keep at it and you'll be mastering it.

Sounds like of like a video game, huh?

 

[BabyDoc]

Ignore my last post.....they are back!!:thumbsup:

Mike

I wish there were. When I just checked there was a notation with *** stating that there was not sufficient quantity in stock to place my order of 1. Unless you want a EX10, you will have to wait for the D10.

 

[LED-holic]

I wish there were. When I just checked there was a notation with *** stating that there was not sufficient quantity in stock to place my order of 1. Unless you want a EX10, you will have to wait for the D10.

I ordered additional D10, and was informed they will be getting a new shipment next week... fingers crossed.

 

[this_is_nascar]

Click + "press and hold" is enough.

He was looking for the shortcut sequence. I edited my post, since I should have said from the OFF position, not the ON position.

 

[DavidD]

While in the OFF position (bezel fully tightened), do CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, PRESS AND HOLD.

I don't believe this is right.

From OFF: Click, Click, Click, Press & Hold_____gives you...
_________On,___Minimum,__Ramping

You have one too many clicks. Should be:

From OFF: Click, Click, Press & Hold__________gives you...
_________On,__Shortcut to Maximum

 

[yaesumofo]

This is exactly the kind of confusion which shouldn't ever happen when the flashlight is the focus of the conversation IMHO.The KISS UI is pretty hard to screw up and it is very difficult to forget how to make it work.I am reminded of the UI which came in the HDS edc series of lights. The Ultimate was/is insane in comparison to well the D10 but is completely out of this world when compared to the Lunasol for example.Then the NovaTac came along. What a breath of fresh air. It came with a UI which was a major improvement over the HDS lights.Hey I have a secrete for you. I got a Novatac, I fiddled with it until I knew enough to set up the light how I wanted it. Guess what I couldn't tell you how to make any changes today even if you walked up to me and offered me money on the street because I had one around my neck. I know how to turn it on off and how to change the level. that's it.I wonder. I wonder how many people are like me and learn enough to make the light work the way they want it to and forget the rest? Or How many people learn the UI and never forget it.I feel a poll coming on...Yaesumofo

I don't believe this is right.

From OFF: Click, Click, Click, Press & Hold_____gives you...
_________On,___Minimum,__Ramping

You have one too many clicks. Should be:

From OFF: Click, Click, Press & Hold__________gives you...
_________On,__Shortcut to Maximum

 

[Exit32]

I don't believe this is right.

From OFF: Click, Click, Click, Press & Hold_____gives you...
_________On,___Minimum,__Ramping

You have one too many clicks. Should be:

From OFF: Click, Click, Press & Hold__________gives you...
_________On,__Shortcut to Maximum

Looks like I'm not the only D10 owner who is confused about how to access maximum brightness directly when the light is off.

According to the D10 and EX10 operator's manual, "To enter Min or Max when the light is OFF, users need only click the tail cap one more time. For example, when the light is OFF, quick triple-click the tail cap continuously, the light enters Min brightness directly. When the light is OFF, triple-click the tail cap continuously and hold, the light enters Max brightness directly."

To me, this means:

From OFF: Click, Click, Click_____gives you...
_________On,___Shortcut to MINIMUM

From OFF: Click, Click, Click, Press & Hold__________gives you...
_________On,__Shortcut to MAXIMUM

Perhaps there's an error with the instructions in the operator's manual and that's why I'm having trouble consistently accessing MAXIMUM directly from the OFF position?

 

[this_is_nascar]

I know what the manual says. All I"m staying that on the (1) D10 and (1) EX10 that I have, the sequence to get to high is what I stated.

 

[Knackeback]

Hi,

the manual says triple click and hold NOT triple click press and hold.
This means, the third click must be holded, not a separate fourth click.

regards,
Michael

 

[mr.snakeman]

Hi Knackeback,
You are right, if you tripple click and hold the fourth from off you will enter the brightness choosing mode moving from low to high in a couple of seconds (does it on both of mine).:welcome:

 

[this_is_nascar]

I'm not going to argue this point anymore. I'm telling you what needs to be done on my (2) lights to go right to maximum brigtness from the OFF position. No need to quote the manual to me, as it really doesn't matter what it says there. I'm telling you what works on these (2) lights. On the 4th press, hold for a second or two and maximum comes on. You can then release and the light stays on.

 

[yaesumofo]

GUYS!! this is beginning to sound like a pissing match please stop it.
The proof is in the pudding.
Pick up the light in question and press the switch and see how it works.
If you don't have the light to try it on then get one and then comment.
Please guys lets move on...... Before a MOD comes in and starts adding their input.
OK?
Thanks
Back to the NightCore.
I have been using mine for a couple of days here is a new impression. Mine sucks the life from batteries pretty quickly. I have tried Lithium's, 14500's and Hi capacity Nimh cells. The 14500 give the best brightness. the hi cap Nimh seem to give the best runtime.
On the road trip I am going on I will be taking those expensive lithium cells for cameras for this light. as well as a couple of nimh cells. I will see what works best for me during a semi camping environment.

I will be Editing my Lunasol 20 as my primary flashlight. My kid will get the nightcore. She is a great test of a light's durability. She also has a multicolor coast that she loves.
We will see how the nightcore holds up. (BTW I am quite sure it will do just fine.
I am a bit concerned about the rate of battery consumption. I guess I could turn it down a bit right????
Yaesumofo

 

[BlueBirdTS]

-------------------------------------------------------------

Yaesumofo: thanks for the very helpful review. I have to question a bit your statements about your reluctance to buy lights made overseas. I'm afraid that, unless the products of U.S. manufacturers and marketers compete fairly in worldwide markets, the U.S. flashlight industry might find itself in the same condition as the contemporary U.S. automobile industry. Years of protectionism and the "buy American" habits of U.S consumers have weakened the U.S. auto industry in relation to the Japanese and European automakers to the point that the recovery of U.S. automakers is becoming more and more difficult and costly.

The U.S. financiers and company owners who pushed free-market capitalism on the rest of the world when the U.S. was the undisputed champion of the game cannot now avoid the world-wide markets they created and still hope to have thriving sales of products consumers want and can afford, at competitive prices. Flashlights are no exception. Protecting U.S. flashlight businesses now could very well lead to the elimination of those businesses in the long run. :sigh:

I agree wholeheartedly. I'm probably one of the least patriotic people on this forum (in fact, I'm somewhat anti-patriotic). I believe that the best deserve my money, whether they are American, Asian, or Martian. If the US can't keep pace, too bad. That's how capitalism functions. You aren't helping out our country any by supporting policies that will ultimately hurt the US in the long run. That having been said, I do find your intentions very noble. Oh, and great review! :twothumbs

 

[alibaba]

This is just one of many ways of switching the light. This version is not perfect and with wear and tear on the anodizing on the light it does have a potential for failure. (read about this in the McGizmo forum).
IMHO the piston drive is a good system.
Yaesumofoquote]



yae, I was concerned about this when I read your post and I brought it up in another thread and rec'd this reply from 4-7's:




"here is absolutely no issue here. If you ever have a specific issue with the
scenario described, I will replace your annodized body with a new part! :lolsign:
What was described required three surfaces to break down. Two of which
has no direct wear. Module to head (which never moves), head to body (yes
the threads wear but minimally with lube), and finally piston to body (which
is primarily contacted by the oring). All three need to break down in order for
this to happen.

An indication of this happen is the inability to twist off when it's on.
This will never happen. (again, if it does from normal wear, I'll set you
up with a new annodized body).

Now, I have some bare aluminum bod parts that I tried using - and essentially
it demostrates that scenario - and it's become an only-clicky light

No need to worry "




It sounds like it would take DECADES to wear through the ano in all of those spots (if you could at all) if you keep it lubed and the absolutely worst case is that you lose momentary mode..........................the "clicky" mode will still work. I was glad to hear that as my D10 light is quickly becoming a good friend. Now it just might get the title TRUSTED friend.