CarbonArc
Newly Enlightened
This page might spark some creativity. If anyone comes up with anything good let me know. http://www.berkeleypoint.com/applications/flashlights/index.html
MicroFire 24W HID Evaluation and Discussion thread
- Thread starter 4sevens
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ShortArc
Enlightened
Here are a few pictures showing the bulb.
Also I did discover a few nicks but nothing really worth mentioning
Overall a nice light (still don't like the vent holes).
Also I did discover a few nicks but nothing really worth mentioning
Overall a nice light (still don't like the vent holes).
I also don't like the vent holes. Also the smooth body makes it difficult to get a firm grip. Not enough knurling on the lights body. However, the light is bright with great throw. The beam and body also do produce a pretty cool light sabre effect.
scaredofthedark
Enlightened
did anyone find a way to take off the bezel yet? or find a way to lubricate the threads for the focusing head?
I don't understand or agree with people that take these small HIGH PERFORMANCE lights and turn them on and leave them on a table to perform runtime tests.
Your hand / body acts as a heat sink to keep the lights temperature down. If your light is to HOT to hold I think it's best you turn it off before you risk damaging it.
This K2000R is a nice *Little* light. It's bar NONE the *smallest* brightest light currently available. Small lights have there advantages and draw backs. If you want a light that you can leave on unattended then maybe you should pick up an AE Shorty 24w HID the output and runtime is comparable but is 2+ times the size and can dissipate the heat when left unattended.
Mac
Your hand / body acts as a heat sink to keep the lights temperature down. If your light is to HOT to hold I think it's best you turn it off before you risk damaging it.
This K2000R is a nice *Little* light. It's bar NONE the *smallest* brightest light currently available. Small lights have there advantages and draw backs. If you want a light that you can leave on unattended then maybe you should pick up an AE Shorty 24w HID the output and runtime is comparable but is 2+ times the size and can dissipate the heat when left unattended.
Mac
4sevens
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've been using mine on walks and exploring outside the house at night.
Pretty neat. I have verified that it does properly charge the li-ions. (whew!)
When fully charged, and the switch is not engaged, the capacitor retains 15v.
But if the switch is engaged it reads 12.48v which is 4.16v for each cell.
Perfectly okay. It does get a big warm after 10 minutes... even in hand
and walking around.
I didn't like the vent holes at first, but now I dont' mind. There are o rings
that seal up everything. I do believe it helps. The reflector temperature
is much greater than the body. If the inside was finned, that would be
a neat effect.
Pretty neat. I have verified that it does properly charge the li-ions. (whew!)
When fully charged, and the switch is not engaged, the capacitor retains 15v.
But if the switch is engaged it reads 12.48v which is 4.16v for each cell.
Perfectly okay. It does get a big warm after 10 minutes... even in hand
and walking around.
I didn't like the vent holes at first, but now I dont' mind. There are o rings
that seal up everything. I do believe it helps. The reflector temperature
is much greater than the body. If the inside was finned, that would be
a neat effect.
NewBie
*Retired*
Could someone please post non-saturated and saturated beamshots please?
Non-saturated means the center is not solid white and washed out.
Saturated would show the flood area well.
Non-saturated means the center is not solid white and washed out.
Saturated would show the flood area well.
CarbonArc
Newly Enlightened
I recieved my light today and cant wait to test it out tonight. Will keep everyone updated.
River Runner
Newly Enlightened
I received a response for MicroFire about the battery charger. They assured me everything was okay and working as intended, and that in addition to, "...a digital protection circuit inside the battery, our chargers are "smart", with over-charging and short-circuit protection, they stop charging automatically once the battery is full, and you even need not take them off charge to stop over charging".
Hope this helps to alleviate some concerns and provides a little more information about the battery/charger circuitry.
Lance
Hope this helps to alleviate some concerns and provides a little more information about the battery/charger circuitry.
Lance
scott.cr
Flashlight Enthusiast
I received my two Warriors today and here are my initial observations:
1) This light is not anodized, the finish is black powdercoat. (Personally I prefer powdercoat over type II; I don't think either is clearly superior in terms of durability if done properly.)
2) One of my lights has a clearly superior beam; nice, round and uniform in color. The other has a very reddish halo and rough edges around the main spot. It doesn't bother me a bit though.
3) What a crap job of packing they did. Both my lights had pieces bouncing around inside their respective boxes, scuffing the finish and damaging the screw threads on both light heads. I was able to repair the threads on my lathe, but CRIPES!!
4) The sealing o-rings are silicone; this is okay, but I think Surefire did a better job when spec'ing buna-n for their rings. Silicone is not good against tearing/abrasion (so keep them well-lubed with NYOGEL - silicone is not resistant to some types of grease). But, silicone has a much higher operating temp than buna-n, in the 400 F range... does it matter? Probably not, but these lights do run quite hot.
5) Mac was right, these are very bright lights, and they do run hot.
6) The vent holes do scare me a little, not so much from a cosmetics standpoint as a contaminant-intrustion standpoint.
7) To those of you who have spare batteries: Are any of you interested in a Delrin threaded plug to protect the contacts? If there's enough interest I would be willing to manage a group buy.
8) The clicky switch: I like its feel. It's a light click rather than a heavy click. It's not as tactile as the Surefires, but I rather light it.
9) If I think of anything else I'll edit this posting!
EDIT:
So I disassembled my light today to smooth out the focusing mechanism, and to see what makes this baby tick. (It's easier than you think.) First off, let me say this is a cleverly designed and very well-made light. I can't comment on the reliability of the electronics, but mechanically speaking, I am very comfortable with the prospects of this light's ruggedness. The weak link might be the lamp itself, which is suspended on wires instead of being solidly potted.
Disassembly of the light consists of removing the battery pack, focus lock ring and bezel. The reflector is threaded into the bezel and the two should come out together; if they don't, simply pull the reflector out of the head. Friction from its lower o-ring could be holding it in place.
The lamp assembly is threaded into the bottom of the head; it has notches for a spanner, but easily unscrewed by hand on both my lights. Both my lamp assemblies had all kinds of greasy fingerprints all over the electrical contacts so I was feeling real proud of myself after cleaning them hahaha.
I noticed that almost zero lube was used during the factory assembly of these lights, and a touch of Nyogel went a LOOOONG way toward making these things run smoother. Also, one of my o-rings was torn, probably due to being siezed and stretched when screwing the light together. I ended up replacing all the o-rings with buna-n, which is a lot more durable than silicone and doesn't tear as easily.
Now this is a purely subjective observation, but both lights seemed quite a bit brighter after this cleaning up and lubricating routine. Perhaps it's the placebo effect, but perhaps it's the cumulative effect of fully seating the lamp and cleaning its contacts?
By the way, I don't think dirt intrusion into the head's ventilation holes will be much of an issue. The reflector is o-ring seals on all sides, and can be easily removed for cleaning if necessary. (Avoiding contact with the mirrored surface, as usual.)
I also tried disassembling a rechargeable battery pack to see what the deal is with one of the on/off switches, which doesn't have a solid feel to it. But, I lack the proper spanner and don't want to risk scratching the electrical contact traces. (Other than that, the pack looks easily disassembled.)
1) This light is not anodized, the finish is black powdercoat. (Personally I prefer powdercoat over type II; I don't think either is clearly superior in terms of durability if done properly.)
2) One of my lights has a clearly superior beam; nice, round and uniform in color. The other has a very reddish halo and rough edges around the main spot. It doesn't bother me a bit though.
3) What a crap job of packing they did. Both my lights had pieces bouncing around inside their respective boxes, scuffing the finish and damaging the screw threads on both light heads. I was able to repair the threads on my lathe, but CRIPES!!
4) The sealing o-rings are silicone; this is okay, but I think Surefire did a better job when spec'ing buna-n for their rings. Silicone is not good against tearing/abrasion (so keep them well-lubed with NYOGEL - silicone is not resistant to some types of grease). But, silicone has a much higher operating temp than buna-n, in the 400 F range... does it matter? Probably not, but these lights do run quite hot.
5) Mac was right, these are very bright lights, and they do run hot.
6) The vent holes do scare me a little, not so much from a cosmetics standpoint as a contaminant-intrustion standpoint.
7) To those of you who have spare batteries: Are any of you interested in a Delrin threaded plug to protect the contacts? If there's enough interest I would be willing to manage a group buy.
8) The clicky switch: I like its feel. It's a light click rather than a heavy click. It's not as tactile as the Surefires, but I rather light it.
9) If I think of anything else I'll edit this posting!
EDIT:
So I disassembled my light today to smooth out the focusing mechanism, and to see what makes this baby tick. (It's easier than you think.) First off, let me say this is a cleverly designed and very well-made light. I can't comment on the reliability of the electronics, but mechanically speaking, I am very comfortable with the prospects of this light's ruggedness. The weak link might be the lamp itself, which is suspended on wires instead of being solidly potted.
Disassembly of the light consists of removing the battery pack, focus lock ring and bezel. The reflector is threaded into the bezel and the two should come out together; if they don't, simply pull the reflector out of the head. Friction from its lower o-ring could be holding it in place.
The lamp assembly is threaded into the bottom of the head; it has notches for a spanner, but easily unscrewed by hand on both my lights. Both my lamp assemblies had all kinds of greasy fingerprints all over the electrical contacts so I was feeling real proud of myself after cleaning them hahaha.
I noticed that almost zero lube was used during the factory assembly of these lights, and a touch of Nyogel went a LOOOONG way toward making these things run smoother. Also, one of my o-rings was torn, probably due to being siezed and stretched when screwing the light together. I ended up replacing all the o-rings with buna-n, which is a lot more durable than silicone and doesn't tear as easily.
Now this is a purely subjective observation, but both lights seemed quite a bit brighter after this cleaning up and lubricating routine. Perhaps it's the placebo effect, but perhaps it's the cumulative effect of fully seating the lamp and cleaning its contacts?
By the way, I don't think dirt intrusion into the head's ventilation holes will be much of an issue. The reflector is o-ring seals on all sides, and can be easily removed for cleaning if necessary. (Avoiding contact with the mirrored surface, as usual.)
I also tried disassembling a rechargeable battery pack to see what the deal is with one of the on/off switches, which doesn't have a solid feel to it. But, I lack the proper spanner and don't want to risk scratching the electrical contact traces. (Other than that, the pack looks easily disassembled.)
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Photongun
Newly Enlightened
I have to say, while there are a few aspects of the light that could do with improving, ultimately I am veryyyy impressed and generally content with my purchase. The diminuative and carefully focused k2000r has output and throw to rival my mighty PL24. If anything, the PL24 has slightly more spill but there is very little between the two.
To illuminate an apartment block 1000 feet away with something only marginally larger than a 2D eveready is pretty exciting in my books.
Yes the anodizing and contruction isn't perfect. And yes having no charging dock (as the PL24 does) is inconvenient. Yes the battery life is substandard and yes the holes in the bezel are silly and a little negligent. YES YES YES!!
But alas... This little light throws to kingdown come thy will be done and it tears through the darkness like no other light its size. Surely thats what we were all after.
If the above trait wasn't what you were after then you bought the wrong light! If it was, then you should accept its inadaquancies and be pleased as punch! (Just like me) *wry grin*
To illuminate an apartment block 1000 feet away with something only marginally larger than a 2D eveready is pretty exciting in my books.
Yes the anodizing and contruction isn't perfect. And yes having no charging dock (as the PL24 does) is inconvenient. Yes the battery life is substandard and yes the holes in the bezel are silly and a little negligent. YES YES YES!!
But alas... This little light throws to kingdown come thy will be done and it tears through the darkness like no other light its size. Surely thats what we were all after.
If the above trait wasn't what you were after then you bought the wrong light! If it was, then you should accept its inadaquancies and be pleased as punch! (Just like me) *wry grin*
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scott.cr
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hey guys, I've added to post 30 on how to disassemble the light for cleaning and lubrication. (Trust me, it needs both.)
BTW, I forgot to mention that one reason why the threads seem so rough on these things is that the metal parts are made of powdered metal, not machined from bar stock. Machined threads are usually very smooth; powdered metal threads can be rough because they are not usually treated/smoothed after the component is removed from the mold.
BTW, I forgot to mention that one reason why the threads seem so rough on these things is that the metal parts are made of powdered metal, not machined from bar stock. Machined threads are usually very smooth; powdered metal threads can be rough because they are not usually treated/smoothed after the component is removed from the mold.
Followed scott.cr's advice - nice one - and the light now feels "proper". Previously the focusing ring was making a nasty squeak, now everything runs super smooth. I used a R/C lubricant (Robbe No.5531) specified for metal bearings, should be able to take the heat.
This is my 1st HID, as my CPF status aptly indicates, and all in all I am very happy. Much much brighter than expected and a very definate high-tech cool factor... just don't tell anyone what you paid for it or they look at you funny.
This is my 1st HID, as my CPF status aptly indicates, and all in all I am very happy. Much much brighter than expected and a very definate high-tech cool factor... just don't tell anyone what you paid for it or they look at you funny.
scaredofthedark
Enlightened
thanks scott.cr
i didn't know you had to take the bulb out before you can take the focusing ring out....
i didn't know you had to take the bulb out before you can take the focusing ring out....
ShortArc
Enlightened
scott.cr,
Thanks for the great instructions. Could not wait and just got done lubing the light with some Krytox (no Nyogel kicking around). Some parts of the assembly were lubed but most were not. What a difference!
Thanks.
Thanks for the great instructions. Could not wait and just got done lubing the light with some Krytox (no Nyogel kicking around). Some parts of the assembly were lubed but most were not. What a difference!
Thanks.
vandrecken
Newly Enlightened
just returned after midnight from a few days away to find the cr123 version of the light waiting on my desk. Opening up I thought oh - have I been sent the wrong one because the first two boxes out of the carton were labelled accessories - needn't have worried, they were both empty !
The main box simply held the head unit and the body, separate and packed in foam. No damage and both parts were in good condition except minor dings around where they screw together.
To load the batteries, (inserted as two layers of four cells) the last inch of the handle with the switch is screwed off. There are matching bulges and cutouts on the two parts to ensure correct alignment when reassembling and then the switch is screwed up snug. As Scott said, next to no lube anywhere so I'll follow his tips but even dry everything went together easily enough just being patient and steady to make sure the threads were properly engaged.
Power up seems to take the standard 30 ish seconds. A momentary flash drops to dull purple rings and a steady ramp up to Bl**dy impressive ! Indoors it lights the room up better than the stack of MR16 halogens that normally light my kitchen. Outdoors the beam is great - tight enough to carry the 200 yards to the end of the cul-de-sac opposite and light up the houses there a treat.
I ran the light for 6 or seven minutes (primary cell lumens ain't free and I haven't bought the 1760 or whatever rechargeables I'll use in it yet) and while it warmed up a bit in the hand it didn't become "hot".
it will be interesting to see if the runtime on primaries does reach the 50 or so minutes reported and if maybe the output is a little less than can be wrung from low resistance rechargeables.
Overall, a very neat little light. I think it will have a nice wow! factor with the guys down the pub
Cheers.
The main box simply held the head unit and the body, separate and packed in foam. No damage and both parts were in good condition except minor dings around where they screw together.
To load the batteries, (inserted as two layers of four cells) the last inch of the handle with the switch is screwed off. There are matching bulges and cutouts on the two parts to ensure correct alignment when reassembling and then the switch is screwed up snug. As Scott said, next to no lube anywhere so I'll follow his tips but even dry everything went together easily enough just being patient and steady to make sure the threads were properly engaged.
Power up seems to take the standard 30 ish seconds. A momentary flash drops to dull purple rings and a steady ramp up to Bl**dy impressive ! Indoors it lights the room up better than the stack of MR16 halogens that normally light my kitchen. Outdoors the beam is great - tight enough to carry the 200 yards to the end of the cul-de-sac opposite and light up the houses there a treat.
I ran the light for 6 or seven minutes (primary cell lumens ain't free and I haven't bought the 1760 or whatever rechargeables I'll use in it yet) and while it warmed up a bit in the hand it didn't become "hot".
it will be interesting to see if the runtime on primaries does reach the 50 or so minutes reported and if maybe the output is a little less than can be wrung from low resistance rechargeables.
Overall, a very neat little light. I think it will have a nice wow! factor with the guys down the pub
Cheers.
Just picked mine up on Thursday. Couldn't wait to get home and charge her up. Same problem as some of you guys, the threads to screw on the battery was nicked a little bit so tightening the battery down was met with resistance. I too was really impressed with the light, although this being my first I don't have anything else to compare it too.
I did notice that the body does get really hot when on for extended periods, but considering the size of the light there would not be as much metal for heat dissipation. Also when pointing the light straight up at the ceiling, I did notice that my light changed color temperature to a more reddish instead of the bluish tint. Anyone else notice this or any color change?
Also, Scott, I would be interested in the cap for the battery and also would appreciate it if you would put a K2000R care package together for me with your "mods" like the orings and that lube. PM me with more info on those please.
Overall great light though. Just need to get that M6 ripoff holster now, unless someone has a better way to hold the light. I better look at getting a pelican case too, huh?
I did notice that the body does get really hot when on for extended periods, but considering the size of the light there would not be as much metal for heat dissipation. Also when pointing the light straight up at the ceiling, I did notice that my light changed color temperature to a more reddish instead of the bluish tint. Anyone else notice this or any color change?
Also, Scott, I would be interested in the cap for the battery and also would appreciate it if you would put a K2000R care package together for me with your "mods" like the orings and that lube. PM me with more info on those please.
Overall great light though. Just need to get that M6 ripoff holster now, unless someone has a better way to hold the light. I better look at getting a pelican case too, huh?
NewBie
*Retired*
No saturated and unsaturated beamshots yet?
