Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice please!

[ampdude]

I would like some advice as to which LED I should upgrade this light to. Mine currently has either a LuxI or LuxIII I don't remember which he used. It puts out a lot of light, but I'm just thinking how much more amazing this light would be with a K2 Rebel 100 or something like that. The LED is driven very hard, it pulls about 1.85A off of the 2AA batteries so I would assume the emitter is seeing around 1.2A or greater, I would like to know which emitter is recommended for such a drive current. And also I would like one that would work fine with the stock reflector.

I will try to have pictures of the emitter/slug soon.
Any advice is appreciated.

 

[paulr]

Re: Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice sought.

Seoul. Other leds won't fit as well.

 

[ampdude]

Re: Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice sought.

Seoul. Other leds won't fit as well.

So a K2 Rebel will probably be too big? From what I understand the base of the Seoul emitter is positive, so I wonder how that would work since it currently has a Luxeon with positive and negative wires going to it.

 

[nanotech17]

Re: Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice sought.

i use this below the emitter in all my SSC P4 mods
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=946

 

[ampdude]

Re: Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice sought.

i use this below the emitter in all my SSC P4 mods
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=946

Thanks.
Is P4 the bin of the emitter? If so, why not use something like a Q5 or R2?

 

[nanotech17]

Re: Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice sought.

Thanks.
Is P4 the bin of the emitter? If so, why not use something like a Q5 or R2?

to solder the lead wires on the cree emitter is PITA

 

[ampdude]

So this looks like the emitter I should use?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_52_85&products_id=942

Besides the shim, is there anything else I will need? What do you use to keep the LED in place? Does the positive wire still get soldered to it?

I just noticed you pointed out the .027" thick copper disc, but it says on the page the .030" one is for Seoul mods, does it make a difference?

 

[LukeA]

Re: Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice sought.

Thanks.
Is P4 the bin of the emitter? If so, why not use something like a Q5 or R2?

P4 is the name of that LED. It's an SSC, not a Cree.

 

[Gunner12]

Re: Modding a Millermods Fenix L2P with a new emitter, advice sought.

P4 is the model of the LED.

Most would probably recommend Arctic Alumina for thermal transfer and holding the LED in place. Make sure you have thick enough layer to prevent the LED form shorting out(A thick enough layer is actually pretty thin from what I have seen).

 

[datiLED]

So this looks like the emitter I should use?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_52_85&products_id=942

Besides the shim, is there anything else I will need? What do you use to keep the LED in place? Does the positive wire still get soldered to it?

I just noticed you pointed out the .027" thick copper disc, but it says on the page the .030" one is for Seoul mods, does it make a difference?

You will need to solder the positive wire to the side of the LED with the solid tab. The side that has the tab that is split is the negative.

Besides the shim, you will need some Arctic Alumina thremal adhesive. It holds the LED in place, while providing electrical isolation. Test for continuity before you allow the AA to harden.

The 0.027" shim will work, but would result in a slightly more floody light. If you have the choice, get the 0.030". If the 0.027" is all that is available, it won't matter much. It is only three thousandths of an inch.

 

[nanotech17]

So this looks like the emitter I should use?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_52_85&products_id=942

Besides the shim, is there anything else I will need? What do you use to keep the LED in place? Does the positive wire still get soldered to it?

I just noticed you pointed out the .027" thick copper disc, but it says on the page the .030" one is for Seoul mods, does it make a difference?

the .030" is too high and your flashlight will have a gap between the body & the head section.The .027'' is perfect.
You just pry the emitter out after desolder the stock emitter and don't forget to mark the polarity on the pill itself to avoid confusion later on.
I use Artic Alumina to keep the emitter in place and it has to be bullseye center :sick2:

 

[ampdude]

Okay, so the shim electrically isolates the bottom of the emitter from the board since the bottom of the emitter is positive. But if the shim is copper, won't that pass current? :thinking: Is Arctic Alumina non-conductive? I take it you put Arctic Alumina under the copper shim, put that in place, put another layer on top of the shim and put the emitter in place, is this correct?

 

[nanotech17]

yup, that's right.
So far after attaching the shim at the bottom of the emitter i don't detect any current pass via my DMM.
And the AA must be as thin as possible and not too thick.

 

[Erasmus]

Or with a small adjustment you can use a Cree emitter. I have modded several L1P/L2P's to Cree versions. Great beam in combination with a slightly modded McR-18 reflector!

 

[ampdude]

I would most like to use a K2 Rebel 100 or something like that if possible, but it sounds like it won't work with the stock reflector. I take it the Cree is larger in diameter which means I would have to drill the reflector and I don't have any reflector modding ability/skills.

I'd most like to use a Rebel though..

Oh no, I just heard about the Rebel emitter recall.........