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Mule Mizer or not Mizer, Did you mizer your MULE?

greenstuffs

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Did you all mizer your mules? i did it with mine i think is well worth the $15 for the extra runtime, i had a PD mizer and non Mizer running with no reflectors and couldn't see much difference between both.
Just wanted to know what options you all have chosen.
 
I went with the Mizer Mule. My thoughts are that the Mule is not a distance light but designed for working and at close range. More hours of runtime means more work accomplished. I got mine today and am pleased with the Mizer option. The low setting has enough light to navigate in darkness or to read without strain. The high setting can flood a large area with enough lumens to do any type of hands-on work necessary. I'm thinking of having a reverse clip made so I can clip the MM to a baseball cap. It'd be perfect for when I need to do late night VPN with the wireless laptop. The length of the Mule is such that for me and my big paws the PD option sees limited use. I might have a modifed plunger made with a threaded end for accessories. A hook to hang the light for top down ilumination or a tripod mount for an aimed flood. Or perhaps the plunger should be left alone and modify the clip to handle the extra options, hmm...wheels are turning...

The flood has been useful for lighting fine art paintings as a demonstration of what proper lighting can do. My patrons have been impressed (me as well). My first day and I have over an hour of practical use already. Not bad for a new design.

Ken
 
Mizer.

The Mule cannot compete with light pollution anyway and will be used as a "candle" and indoor light ... so extra runtime is more than welcome, and the brightness will suffice.

bernie

P.S.: although I have to admit that my first Mizer does make me feel less "manly" :D
 
Non-Mizer. When you are getting work done in one place, chances are that low will do just fine. Low runtime is the same on Mizer and Non. So with that extra oomph of 525mA oppsed to 300mA on high, the Mule becomes more useful lacking the collimator which is the reflector. :tinfoil:
 
This is a good topic and interesting comments made so far. So much depends on the task at hand and applications one anticipates using this light with. It boils down to how many lumens do you need.

The mule does not throw. Being portable though, can you bring the mule closer to the target? If yes, once you have the mule close enough for the desired level illumination, Is the beam still large enough to illuminate the area you want lit up? The mizer requires a closer distance to target for the same lux as the non mizer. If you can move the mule and adjust your distance from target then the required coverage area dictates the flux requirements.

I have two mules (well one is a precursor and the other a proto but effectively they are mules). Both of these are on site and dedicated to specific applications. One is a night stand light and the other is an outside shower light. In both of these cases, the mizer mode is sufficient. When I get more of these made, I plan to have a third unit for carry and general use that I will keep in my van. I plan to go non mizer with this one. I figure if there is no restriction in adjusting the distance to target that I can either get in close if I want to go for long durations of illumination or I can use the high level for shorter term illumination and this can be done from greater distance or when I am limited in approach to the target.

This has been discussed many times here on CPF but a hot spot is an artifact relative to the light generated outside of the hotspot. The mule gives you the kind of light distribution you really want. Unfortunately the mule can not go any significant distance so collimation needs to be employed and now enters the hotspot. If the mule is up to the task, you really can't beat it. If it isn't then the point is moot and hopefully you have something else available. :shrug:

Ken,
If you are willing to dedicate a ball cap to serve as host to the mule then I would suggest stitching a short length of 1" webbing th the bill by tacking down both ends. You can slip the clip (or light if you loop the webbing) under the webbing and secure the light in that fashion. Gravity will keep the light in place as it can't slide forward. You can also take a 1/4"x20 tap and form a partial thread in the pocket clip up at the wide end of the tapered slot and this can allow you to screw the clip onto a small tripod.
 
Do not worry WP ... it will be a brief visit on your side of the river, and only because of a very special light. :D

But if the LEDs get even better ... who knows? :)

bk
 
I went with the non-mizer option but the high seems "almost" too bright for indoor use... when it hit my white kitchen appliances last night it almost blinded me. Not bothered enough by the high to have it changed out (wouldn't do that to you again Don) but would consider swapping if someone with a mizer wanted the brighter option. Although, I really haven't tested it outside yet... maybe the high will have its uses.

That all being said, this is a hell of a light. Took some getting used to... no hot spot at all challenged my perspective a bit but already I'm loving this light. This is the best light maded by far to read by. And, as I wrote in another post, this is the perfect covert light... no spy should be without one. Using this light you could easily read documents in a pitch black office and not give yourself away. Weird but extremely useful beam... I don't see how any beam shot could possibly do it justice.
 
...... Weird but extremely useful beam... I don't see how any beam shot could possibly do it justice.

I think a reasonable beam shot from the mule would look like a photo of something to one not aware that it was a "beam shot". When used within the design scope of the light, one should not be aware of the beam but rather what it is iluminating. :shrug: Well that's the idea anyway! :nana:

The mule exploits the raw distribution pattern of light from the XR-E by not doing anything to it; or as little as posible.
 
After using just the Mule around the house last night, I'm giving serious consideration to buying some Cree strips, XR-E's, and Xitanium 700mA drivers. For most purposes, the Mule provides more than sufficient light for even my 12'x30' bedroom, so I'm sure that it wouldn't take very long to recoup the cost and then start saving money.

I think calling the Mule a flashlight is really a misnomer. It's really just a light that happens to be shaped like a flashlight - but a very useful one. I have no idea how many times I've got in search of some small lost item, either outside or in the car at night. A flashlight does okay for this, but the wide flood of the Mule will be far more practical for such searches. And it will be superb to have around during the rare power outages we have.

I suspect a lot of folks will miss the point of the Mule, but for those of us that have one, well, that'll leave more of them for us! :naughty:
 
Codey, I picked up some Cree strips and Xitanium drivers before I recieved my Mule since I have been EDCing a non reflectored Cree in CR2 pocket flashlight for a while now. :grin2: As for Mizer vs non Mizer, I decided on the 525ma version of the Mule. The Cr2 size non reflectored Cree pocket light I have been using is driven at 400ma and it did seem to come up a little short on light output for some tasks. No light or drive level for that light is ever perfect for every task and is jugded different by each individual but I believe the Mule with 525ma drive is PERFECT for me! :thumbsup: Don`t forget this is a two stage light if that drive level is too bright. ;) I am one happy camper with my Mule and you will not be seeing it on B/S/T. :nana:

Ken
 
Don, I agree about the comments and a very interesting thread so far. The mule causes me to rethink what I consider a flashlight. If I had a desk lamp, I wouldn't expect a hotspot, in fact if it had one, I would consider it broken. We have grown acustomed to the hotspot flashlight because it's always been the only option and small lights were too expensive a source of light for portable and everyday use. Enter the efficient LED and combine it with a bit of good engineering and vola...the "Mule" is born.

Don, without a reflector, I assume that the light is falling off at inverse the square of the distance, correct? It's true that the theory is technically applied to a light source being emitted in a 360 sphere direction.

Good suggestion on the ball cap. I'm going to have a bit of fun with this one before I finalize on a solution. The idea of adapting the Mule to many uses is just too intriguing. Thanks for the tip on the threading option. Great idea. Today, I attached the Mule to a walking stick and held it up to a high mounted painting and was able to determine that the work was a fake. No need to take the work down even. I like that.

It occurred to me last evening that when the light pollution is reduced, the low setting on the Mizer Mule is quite bright. I did some work last night on a nice old violin and the MM was perfect for the job. Did the work on low setting, later switched to high and Wow...really bright. My eyes had adjusted to the light source and I didn't even realize how few lumens it was taking to work comfortably. I believe we have much more to learn in the weeks ahead. This is opening up some possibilities.

Ken

This is a good topic and interesting comments made so far. So much depends on the task at hand and applications one anticipates using this light with. It boils down to how many lumens do you need.

Ken,
If you are willing to dedicate a ball cap to serve as host to the mule then I would suggest stitching a short length of 1" webbing th the bill by tacking down both ends. You can slip the clip (or light if you loop the webbing) under the webbing and secure the light in that fashion. Gravity will keep the light in place as it can't slide forward. You can also take a 1/4"x20 tap and form a partial thread in the pocket clip up at the wide end of the tapered slot and this can allow you to screw the clip onto a small tripod.
 
TITAN,

I modifed a 6xAA 2D maglite with Cree drop in to remove the reflector and add an additional O-ring to gap up the lens. It's been a most used light for me for quite some time. Your D-Mini should make an excellent source of flood and I'm sure we will see more variations. It's cool your thinking outside of the box or should we say "outside of the reflector" and making your light more useful for your needs.

Ken

for a work light i have to settle for my D-MINI minus reflector.it works but i doubt in the same league as the mule.
 
I went with the non-mizer option but the high seems "almost" too bright for indoor use... when it hit my white kitchen appliances last night it almost blinded me.

GITTL,

Interesting, the same happened to me in the middle of the night when my eyes were accustomed to very little light but I was using a Mizer Mule on high. However, during the day, the MM for outside use or use in well lit rooms does not provide enough concentrated light for many of my needs. Under these conditions, I find the the PD-S Mizer on high to be perfect in being able to view details at a distance and to bring the details out in a way that my eyes can easily capture specifics. Good portable light is my most important tool along with knowledge of what to look for in fineart, antiques and gems. Without good tools, my work is not fun. With good tools, I'm much better at what I do. With cool looking, titanium, well designed and functioning lights, I have fun and am effective. Mizer Mule, lower light levels great. Mizer PD-S, higher light levels great. I'm covered. Oh, I almost forgot, I love the HDS EDC also. If I'm moving fast and need off/on quickly and at a custom level, HDS is perfect. I now EDC a Mizer Mule, a Mizer Ti PD-S and a U60GT...

Ken
 
....... I have no idea how many times I've got in search of some small lost item, either outside or in the car at night. A flashlight does okay for this, but the wide flood of the Mule will be far more practical for such searches. ........ :naughty:

When the original McLux with flood reflector was a current topic, I recall making a similar comment about whether you wanted to search for something with a search or spot light or just find it with a flood that didn't require a search pattern.

To be fair, claiming that there is no hot spot in a primary beam from the XR-E or even a lambertian source like the Luxeon or Seoul P4 is a bit misleading. You do have greatest intensity on axis with a diminishing in intensity as you move off axis. It is just that the transition is smooth enough that you don't perceive any abrupt or sharp differences. With a secondary optic I prefer the concentrated beam when it too has a smooth transition from center to perimeter. True, a sharp edge or region of high contrast can be used effectively to highlight and even gain some information about a target. A tiny object can cast a giant shadow. Typically I prefer an even distribution of light about the target field so that my attention is not drawn to some contrast or feature being exagerated by my light source. At times it is simply a case of whether you want to see the forest or the tree. :shrug: I ramble............ :eek:

If one were to consider the analogy of a flashlight as a gun that shoots photon streams, the mule or a similar light could be considered as a sawed off shotgun. In close quarters or when you need to cover a large area this can be more effective than a sniper rifle. To address this in terms of mizer or non mizer, how many pellets or photons do you need to do the job?
 
Sure, the Mule's greatest intensity is on axis, but it's almost imperceptible on a white wall, much less in real use.

The Mule makes we wonder if we even would have had the proliferation of traditional reflectored flashlights, had the earliest ones been of sufficient intensity and effeciency to not need reflectors. I suspect that the reflectored flashlight would not have been the mainstream hand-held light, but more of a specialty item, taking second seat to the flood light. Now I ramble...
 
Ray,
I like your rambling alot more than mine! I dare say that is a very interesting and enlightening observation you put forth!! In speaking once with one of the flashlight manufacturers about the value of an even flood VS a tight and bright spot, they commented that the light had to sell itself on the pegboard when someone tried it out in bright ambient light and evaluated its ability to be "seen".

During a power failure or in an emergency where one needs to grab a bail out bag, it seems to me that a flood light would have more value or utility than a spot light. :thinking:
 
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