N30 Questions about LEDs

[naicidrac]

Hello all,
I purchased the Amondotech N30 back in March some time. I love the freaking light, but I got it out this weekend and some of the LEDs are not working. I have relaly only used this light like 3 times since I have had it. I am a little concerned because I read another post where someone had this problem. It might be a weak spot in the otherwise great design. I wanted to ask you guys if battery junction is pretty good about repairing stuff like this and to see what the warranty is on the N30. I know most electronics have a one year warranty. I have had it around 7 months with little use.

Thanks,

 

[BVH]

Just send member Mattk (battery junction owner) a PM. He's very active here.

 

[Illum]

Shipping may cost a bit...

face the light away from you, grip the black LED bezel and turn counterclockwise.

the entire light can be disassembled in a couple of minutes. the lamp regions are not locktited and no o-rings are present...but anyway it should unscrew easily.

the LED module is recessed and a pretty good fit, you may have to prod it a little to get it out, once its out it should look like this


Check for cold solder joints and burned out LEDs by hand. If the LEDs are burned out, I think returning it would the only viable option.

The lamp is two parallels sets of a 3 and a 4 series
judging from the resistors I'd say around 20ma, since its series...I'd figure one of your LEDs are out

 

[naicidrac]

Thanks I will hit MattK up right away.

 

[gchand]

Or else, replace the original LED unit with one of the variable output Cree Q5 Surefire
P60 compatible modules.

Take a look at http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=197305

George

 

[Northern Lights]

I see you beat me to it! It is my post after all! LOL
IMPROVE THE N30 HID add a 225 Lumen R2 LED area light and GLOWING LED locators

 

[naicidrac]

Thanks for everything. I will think about it, but for now I just sent a PM to MattK of Battyer Junction just to get it fixed for now. How much does that R2 cost and is it just a solder and drop in kind of thing?

 

[Patriot]

Thanks for everything. I will think about it, but for now I just sent a PM to MattK of Battyer Junction just to get it fixed for now. How much does that R2 cost and is it just a solder and drop in kind of thing?

The links with prices are under the third picture in Northen Light's thread which is linked above, and yes...it's just a solder and drop in procedure.

 

[naicidrac]

so is this the same R2 upgrade that can go in a surefire G2? I have one of those that is stock and I would love to upgrade it and just wanted to know if it is the same upgrade?

 

[Northern Lights]

so is this the same R2 upgrade that can go in a surefire G2? I have one of those that is stock and I would love to upgrade it and just wanted to know if it is the same upgrade?

Yes, There is a 5 mode and 1 mode, the 1 mode has a higher top end voltage of 18V and is for the N30.
Both work in a variety of SF flashlights, I just sold a half doazen or so to several officers. They had to have the SF lights, product loyalty you know, but then ended up buying the same drop ins they could have gotten by buying a complete rechargeable set up from me, although made in China, for a fraction of the SF price.
Funny but true.

 

[naicidrac]

Thanks a ton. So just to be crystal clear. These lights at this link http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11836 will work in the N30 and the SF G2? I am just confused because you said a 5 mode and 1 mode. I just would like to know if that link is exactly what I need for the SF and the N30. I know the SF is just a drop in installation and the N30 needs to be soldered as show in the pics.

 

[Northern Lights]

Thanks a ton. So just to be crystal clear. These lights at this link http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11836 will work in the N30 and the SF G2? I am just confused because you said a 5 mode and 1 mode. I just would like to know if that link is exactly what I need for the SF and the N30. I know the SF is just a drop in installation and the N30 needs to be soldered as show in the pics.

Do not look at the mode, look at the voltage range the R2 and Q5 modules work at, it is listed in the title desciptions. In the R2, the brightest single die LED out there, only the 1 mode will take teh 13 Volts of the N30. 3.7-18.0 volts, the 5 mode only goes up to 8.4 volts you will blow it on the N30
This Q5 will work too. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11621

But the R2 is brighter, cost is the same really.
Go with the 11836. I like it.

 

[gchand]

As I mentioned in Northern Lights' original thread, I have been using the DX 11075 5-mode
module in my N30. This 11075 module is only a Cree P4, but is a 5-mode unit rated to 18V.
There is some degree of nebulosity associated with this module in that DX still advertises it
as a 0-100% module even after my review posted on their site a few months ago. I have
received two shipments of two each of these units, and they are all 5-mode.

In the N30, I have heat dissipation concerns with a full power P4/Q5/R2 running flat out for
extended periods of time. The N30 case/handle are plastic, and do not dissipate heat as
well as a metal bodied flashlight. The DX 11075 5-mode unit allows extended run times at
low level without heat issues (and also gives *long* run times which was the original intent
of the N30 LED module).


George

 

[Northern Lights]

I blew the driver on an R2 module so I put it into the N30 with a huge resistor.
You talk about heat. The handle gets too hot to touch but has not deformend. I never use the area light much except to manuever a bit in camp. So it is not a problem but I bet the heat is much higher than when it was a driver although the voltage drop is the same.

 

[gchand]

As a point of interest, my original N30 multi-LED module draws 50ma. With a NiMH
battery good for (approx) 1 hour run time with the HID drawing (approx) 3000ma, the
N30 battery can be assumed to be in the order of 3AH WRT capacity. At 50ma, that
results in a run time of 60 hours or so using just the multi-LED module.

My DX 11075 module draws 30ma in low mode, and is *much* brighter in that mode than
the original multi-LED module. With a 3AH battery, the 11075 in low mode should run for
100 hours or so.

Again, WRT the DX 11075, DX advertises them as being 0-100% units, and the units
that I have received have all been 5-mode (Hi, Med, Lo, Strobe, SOS). If you try to
order the 11075 now, who knows what you will receive.

One of the advantages of the original multi-LED module (and my 11075 running in low
mode) is that either of them can be utilized for an hour or two after the N30 HID quits
due to low battery voltage, providing a fall-back mode for the light.

My concerns about heat dissipation running P60 compatible modules at their full 3w+
levels for extended periods of time is not so much about the N30 plastic parts melting,
but rather about the temperatures that the module electronics will be exposed to,
possibly resulting in early (and sudden) failures.

If it hasn't been apparent from my posts, my N30 is my *favorite* light!


George