Need help with Zebralight h501 issue

[MojoLight]

Just got my h501 yesterday and first thing I noticed is that it didn't seem to be as bright on high as I expected. There is a definate difference between med and high, but it doesn't seem like 18lm to 96 lm...at least not compared to other flashlights with an output jump like that. Tested with nimh, lithium, and alk batts, same results except the lithium seemed a tad brighter.

Doing the old scientific ceiling bounce test, high on the h501 is about the same as med on my L1d q5.

I've also had some strange switching anomolies that I think were related to not fully charged nimh batts. Problems varied, but the most predominate was cycling to high and then within a short time stepping down to low. Other times the light would not come on at all until I removed the batt and tailcap and using the same batt would then light up.Several times it just got stuck on low and I had to unscrew the tailcap to turn it off.
Seems to work fine with freshly charged nimh, lithium or alk batts.

I'm trying to determine if my particular unit is defective regarding the high output. I've read in other threads regarding a diminshed high output but on next cycle would be the proper high, and the current draws were listed in that post. I would like to test my unit for current draw to see how it compares, but I have absolutely no idea how to do that. I do have a decent multi-meter...I just lack the knowledge of how to use it! If anyone could explain how to take these measurements on the h501 (including what to set my multimeter to) I would be most grateful.

 

[Foxx510]

To test the current draw, you first need to remove the tailcap. Then, put your multimeter on the DC current measurement, it will say mA or A at the amp measurement switch position. You need to make sure it's DC current, the symbol for DC will be a solid and dotted line together, for AC it's a wavy line. You will also need to put the red lead in the other hole in the multimeter that says A and mA. You should now be ready to measure the current. Put one of the multimeter leads under your foot on the floor so you can push the exposed negative end of the battery in the Zebralight hard up against it, making sure that this lead doesn't touch the edge of the battery tube. Then hold the other lead on the bare silver end of the battery tube where it would normally contact the gold ring in the tailcap. You should now be able to switch the light on and measure the current drawn, the multimeter takes the place of the tailcap and completes the circuit.

If that doesn't make sense I can take a photo of how I do it. It takes some mucking about and can be difficult to hold it all in place.

If you are unsure about setting the multimeter, post a photo or the make/model and I'll tell you how to set it up.

Remember that after you've done the amp measurements to always put the red lead back in the normal hole, as it will short out anything you try to do a voltage measurement on if you still have the red lead in the current measurement hole.

First thing to try is to put the light in front of a heater and get it nice and warm and see if it makes a difference to the high mode, all mine were temperature sensitive, and all three to different degrees.

 

[MojoLight]

Thanks! I tried it to find out the old (and I do mean OLD) fluke had a blown fuse. I'll post my results after I get a fuse...or borrow another meter.

 

[Foxx510]

Just for now, pull the old fuse out, get some thin copper wire or fuse box fuse wire and just squish it in to the fuse holder running along next to the blown fuse. That's all my fluke has in it at the moment.

 

[MojoLight]

Hope this doesn't post twice..computer giving me greif too !!!

I just had the dimming from bright problem again, this time with fresh batts. Happens if cycled to bright or started at bright...will go to low anywhere from 5 seconds to a few minutes. Then is just quit working altogether. Did the usual, cleaned contacts that were already clean looking for a solution but no luck. Tried different batts, no luck. Then, it fired up on the original battery and seems to be working ok now.

I can't live with a light that dims for no reason or won't start up when it's supposed to. So, I've requested an RA from Zebralight for replacement.

I'll post results of customer service and the new light when I get it. I've heard good things about their service, so I'm not too concerned. There seem to be lots of happy h501 owners out there and I hope to be in that group soon!

 

[Foxx510]

Good luck with it, lets hope they don't send you three faulty replacements in a row like they did me ;-)

 

[wapkil]

I would like to test my unit for current draw to see how it compares, but I have absolutely no idea how to do that. I do have a decent multi-meter...I just lack the knowledge of how to use it! If anyone could explain how to take these measurements on the h501 (including what to set my multimeter to) I would be most grateful.

HKJ wrote a nice gude that could help you here

Just for now, pull the old fuse out, get some thin copper wire or fuse box fuse wire and just squish it in to the fuse holder running along next to the blown fuse. That's all my fluke has in it at the moment.

I understand that your intentions are only the best but it has to be added the fuses are there on purpose. If a person is completely certain that there is zero chance of measuring higher currents the solution would work. Unfortunately people like me make errors and forget about temporary solutions so I would at least recommend removing this wire when the DMM is put aside so it is not later accidentally used with it.

 

[Foxx510]

I understand that your intentions are only the best but it has to be added the fuses are there on purpose.

Of course, I assumed Mojolight realised it was only temporary in order to make this measurement.

 

[MojoLight]

Awesome guide...thanks for the link! And yes Foxx510, I did realize it would be a temp fix. The really funny part is that if I did blow it up, it's more of the nature of breaking an antique. This thing is an old Fluke that my dad gave me in the early 80's...and it was WELL used then. Compared to the pictures in the guide, it's more like looking at an old Ray-0-Vac Sportsman next to a Nitecore Extreme.

Well, I got my RA# this morning but not in time to get it shipped to Texas. I should get that done tomorrow and will hopefully soon be posting updates of quick service from ZebraLight.

 

[MojoLight]

Re: Need help with Zebralight h501 issue ***Update 8/29***

Sent to ZebraLights Texas facility 8/14 and received new light 8/27. I've had a few night so put it through the paces and this one seems to work fine.

When I got my first defective h501 I was VERY dissapointed in the output. Based on CPF'r positive comments this thing was supposed to be bright on high.

Got the new one and apprehensively turned it on. WOW what a difference. Great little light. After reading all of the threads on this light and the various issues from brightness levels to water leaks, I found myself doing things to it that I've never done to my other lights. Put it in the fridg..get it warm...put it in water. All tests passed.

 

[davidt1]

Glad everything worked out for you. I know it sucks to pay $60 for a light and still have to worry about quality. I hope Zebralight will improve quality control from now on.

Enjoy your light. But don't settle for the bulky stock clip and headband if you are handy. I am not handy, but I couldn't stand having to remove the clip every time I want to use the headband so I replaced the clip and made my own headband. Now I can attach the light with the clip to the headband in 1/5 the time it takes to do it with the stock parts. Also, the light and headband are so slim I can EDC them in my shirt pocket.