Need suggestion on AA Luxeon

jbrett14

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I also agree with Paulr. I am very puzzled as to some of the recommendations or suggestion within this forum. Many of them seem to be the same answer regardless of the person's question. I highly doubt that anyone who is not a flashoholic, and we know that most folks are not, would want a sandwich as a recommendation. Along with Paulr's advice, I can also recommend the StreamLight 3AA Luxeon (I don't own the others). I don't see the length of this light as being a problem at all for general use, and it's full brightness runtime will be around 3 hours.
 

Gman

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Thanks guys, lots of good input. The Turtlelite looks like a good bet as does the eLED. I may hold on for the SL Junior as I won't be going over to until July. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
 

asdalton

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Somone needs to mention that the Turtlelite is not a Luxeon light, and it uses only a single 5mm LED. However, it may be a good host for an EverLED drop-in, which uses a regulated Luxeon.
 

Steve_Giannoni

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What's in a "luxeon", over the Turtlelite's "modified LED design (patent pending) that allows the Nichia 5600mcd LED to be used effectively with the flashlight's reflector!"?
 

asdalton

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[ QUOTE ]
Steve_Giannoni said:
What's in a "luxeon", over the Turtlelite's "modified LED design (patent pending) that allows the Nichia 5600mcd LED to be used effectively with the flashlight's reflector!"?

[/ QUOTE ]

The Turtlelite is a rather old design (from around 2001) that basically takes the body of a 4AA incandescent flashlight and replaces the bulb with a single modified 5-mm LED. The LED is modified by 1) having its epoxy lens ground down so that it emits light in all directions for better use of the reflector, and 2) being fitted in a PR-style bulb base, most likely with a resistor to limit the current that the LED receives when being driven off 6 volts. This design throws a narrow beam surprisingly well, but the light output is low. After all, it contains only a single LED.

The Luxeon is a high-output LED that emits 10-15 times the light of a 5-mm white Nichia LED. The only way to get that much light from Nichia LEDs is to use 10 or more of them in a single flashlight.
 

Double_A

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Well I just ordered four of the 4AA UK eLED lights from Brightguys at $20 each. I always liked their tiny incandescent version.

I'll post some quick comments here when they arrive and a short review sometime thereafter.

GregR
 

gadget_lover

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[ QUOTE ]
jbrett14 said:
I also agree with Paulr. I am very puzzled as to some of the recommendations or suggestion within this forum. Many of them seem to be the same answer regardless of the person's question. I highly doubt that anyone who is not a flashoholic, and we know that most folks are not, would want a sandwich as a recommendation. Along with Paulr's advice, I can also recommend the StreamLight 3AA Luxeon (I don't own the others). I don't see the length of this light as being a problem at all for general use, and it's full brightness runtime will be around 3 hours.

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually, several people asked if they could get one after seeing my minimag with a madmax sandwich. The addition of an o-ring behind the sandwich keeps it from falling out.

Daniel
 

tygger

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The Streamlight JR. LS seems it will be a very nice light. Anyone have an idea of runtime, using lithiums, firm release date? At least its a little cheaper than a sandwich.
 

jbrett14

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Daniel, sounds like maybe they could already be flashaholics deep inside /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. But I'm sure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif you will help them control this addictive urge so they will not need to recalculate their budgets. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

BuddTX

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With the Streamlight Jr not out yet, I would strongly suggest the UK 4AA eLED w/Switch (AS2)

und4aays.jpg


This has to be my favorite, commercially available, under 30 dollars, Luxeon Star Light, without a doubt!

Some people say it is not bright, but you have to see this thing to believe it. It is not sizzling out the LS, overdriving it, but it has a nice reflector, produces a very nice BEAM (not just a glowing auroa of light, but an actual, cut through the night beam!), and is the whitest, most pure in color LS commercially available light that I have purchased!

Read the reviews here:
UK 4AA eLED, first impressions

And Semi Regulated? This thing is flat line regulated!
Run-Time Plot - UK4AA eLED

Here is the chart:
uk4aa.jpg
 

nikon

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If you hold the UK 4AA eLED the proper way, so that the switch is on the bottom, and use the tip of your index finger to operate the switch, you'll probably find it a lot easier to use.
 

paulr

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I'd stay away from the CMG Reactors. They were a worthwhile contribution for a short while when they were the only inexpensive way to get a Luxeon light, but they are really pretty crappy lights, and the 2-cell version needs lithium (L91) batteries to get reasonable brightness. The same goes for the Inretech plug-in. It's a cute gizmo for flashaholics, but it also needs lithium batteries.

I absolutely wouldn't want to require exotic batteries like L91 lithiums for this application (or else you might as well use CR123's) and (people don't understand this) I wouldn't even want to require alkalines. I'd want a light that works fine on the crappy, non-alkaline, zinc-carbon "dry cells" that are all you can get in poorer countries. I really think that the UKE 4AA eLED is so much better than the other Luxeon alternatives in this regard, that it's hardly worth looking further. For non-Luxeon, the Streamlight SL4AA 7-led light might be worth a look, and some of the 3aa 5mm lights. I'd want to see a runtime plot for Streamlight's 3AA Luxeon light with zinc-carbon batteries before I could recommend it.

Another way to deal with the battery situation might be to include a bunch of NiMH cells and a charger with the flashlight, of course.
 

John N

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I'm a bit puzzled why you consider the sandwiches so unfriendly. If you add a Kroll tailcap and tell the user to just use the tailcap to operate and warn them the sandwich is loose when they change the batteries they are set. I suspect most people can deal with that pretty well.

IMO the result is pretty darn slick. The 2AA MM form factor is very nice. The 1W sandwiches w/optics are bright and have a nice beam. You can run whatever random batteries you would like.

The only thing that really bugs me about this setup is it is not as waterproof as I'd like. I suspect I want a lot more in this regard than most people.

I purchased a UKE 4AA eLED and PT Impact XL in hopes to find a good emergency light. I was very disappointed in the brightness of both lights and fine the beams only so-so in each case (but they are different). I also find the switch in the UKE 4AA lacking and both also have their own battery loading issues (I'd rate them on par with dealing with the loose sandwich in the AA MM).

In the end, I think you just are not going to get a very bright light in a plastic model, but to my knowledge there isn't a good alternative.

I suppose the ARC LS w/2AA would be an optimal solution, but it is a pretty expensive route to go. Certainly it doesn't fit the model for my emergency lights.

Ironically, I find the SL 4AA 7LED a better light than either the PT XL or the UKE 4AA eLED. The switch is much better (and it has a switch). It is about as bright as the others. The only downside is it is a bit more flood than I would like. I mean it is REALLY flood. Of course for some applications this would be good. Oh, and it is also a bit more blue.

In regards to the Turtlelite, I have a TL II which is nice, but not very bright (obviously). I did attempt putting a LEDCorp ProBulb in it, but the issue I ran in was the bulb needed to be height adjusted in order to get proper focus. This may be less of an issue with a side emitter, but I think you run a bit of a risk with fixed focus lights. Also, I think it was an improvement, but hardly worth the effort.

Here are the pictures if you are interested:

http://www.navitsky.org/lights/turtle/turtlelite.html

In the end, I think the combo MM AA + glass lens + Dat2Zip Sandwich + Kroll tailcap works very well. I don't think it is harder to load batteries than the 4AA lights mentioned here and it is bright, small and has a nice user interface. Perfect, no, but I'm still looking for that one!

-john

[Edit: Oh, and I agree with Paulr in regards to the Reactor. I *really* dislike these lights. Too bad, they make a great single AA LED light!]
 

PhotonBoy

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The sammiches really require a *lot* of research and knowledge before you can buy them. On top of that, they aren't cheap, especially if you live in Canada. *Plus*, they keep morphing over time. The sammich site is unfriendly and difficult to navigate. There really ought to be a 'Sammich Shop for Dummies' (like me).
 

brightnorm

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Oct 13, 2001
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I'll add my recommendation for the UK eLED module in either the 4AA or 2L. After initial disappointment at its unspectacular bream I have come to appreciate this excellent little light with its extraordinarily long, ruler-flat burn. The side emitter is cleverly matched to its reflector to maximize a relatively modest output, resulting in a surprisingly useful beam. For ultra-long burn I use 4xL91s in my 4AA for approx 17hrs steady light. For common use 7-8 rock steady hours from the little 2L is much appreciated.

Brightnorm
 

JohnnyB

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[ QUOTE ]
PhotonBoy said:
The sammiches really require a *lot* of research and knowledge before you can buy them. On top of that, they aren't cheap, especially if you live in Canada. *Plus*, they keep morphing over time. The sammich site is unfriendly and difficult to navigate. There really ought to be a 'Sammich Shop for Dummies' (like me).

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree totally. I've gone to that site several times, only to leave scratching my head. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 

paulr

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I think the Kroll switch only adds to the problems of the minimag/sandwich combo. First of all it confuses the heck of someone who already knows how to use a minimag, since they twist the bezel and the light doesn't come on, so they twist it back down again and push the button and the light doesn't come on (since they've turned it off at the bezel, etc). Secondly the Kroll switch is a piece of crap. For flashaholics it may be fun to periodically take the stupid thing apart and clean it after it gets flaky from arcing too much (Peter's site has a several page illustrated document about how to do that) but for a non-flashaholic, the flakiness just means they shrug their shoulders and say "oh well, that was a nice light while it lasted" and throw away the expensive light you gave them.

Also, I don't think it's getting through, 2aa sandwiches, especially very bright ones, use too much power for the kinds of batteries that the recipient may be forced to use with it. If you're absolutely determined to give the person a high powered dat2zip-powered light with AA cells, your best bet is get some kind of custom light made, with 6 or 8 cells and a Downboy module.

I think the next best bet is a light that runs on D cells, like an Elektrolumens Blaster 1R. AA cells are sometimes the only cells available in completely underdeveloped countries, but a former CIS country should have some D's around.
 
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