You are very knowledgeable sir
I just ate my words and realized that fenix has a single AAA luxeon based flash light.. the L0P.. then i saw you mention the L0D.. I am seeing the major difference between these lights being the bulb used in them? I can find the L0P for 30 bucks on the same site i found the others.. thats a tad more up the chain, but it claims it uses a luxeon III light.. how much more brightness/throw should i expect from that, in comparison to say, the E1 ? right now its going to be about a 10 dollar price drifference.. and of course its run time is even lower than the E1..
What is "Eneloops" is that the back part of the flash light that i run the keys through? (i'm new still)
Fenix AAA lights:
E0 is a 5mm LED light. 4 lumens for 5 hours.
E1 is a "1/2 watt" light. 11 lumens for 1 hr 40 mins.
L0P is Fenix's 1st Luxeon AAA light. 30 lumens for 15 min (alkaline) 50 min (freshly charged NiMH)
L0P SE (P=premium, SE=special edition) is a 3 mode light.
Medium is 11 lumens for 1 hr 40 mins. Similar to an E1.
Low is 4 lumens for 5 hours. Similar to an E0.
High is 30 lumens for 15 min (alkaline) 50 min (freshly charged NiMH). Similar to an L0P.
So you get 3 lights in 1.
L0D (D=digital) is an L0P SE with the addition of strobe and SOS modes.
Strobe is useful for making people aware you are there. Such as crossing the stret at night.
SOS (..._ _ _... is great for shining at Al Gore during the Save The Planet Concert.
There are Holiday versions of the L0D in red and green with snowflakes.
L0D CE (CE=Cree edition) is an L0D with a Cree emitter.
Medium is 15 lumens for 1 hr 40 mins.
Low is 7 lumens for 5 hours.
High is 45 lumens for 15 min (alkaline) 50 min (freshly charged NiMH).
The increase in brightness is most noticeable in the spill light, allowing you to see a wide area clearly.
L0D RB80 (RB=Rebel LED, 80= 80 lumens at 350 mA) is a L0D with a Rebel emitter.
The RB80 has a stronger hotspot but weaker spill light than the L0D CE. For throw (distance) the RB80 is better. For closer work the CE is better.
Some people like the warmer (less blue) tint of the RB80.
Some people get the RB80 because it is the LATEST THING.
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Fenix name convention:
L series Lights that use common batteries
P series Powerful lights that use 3V CR123A batteries
E series Economical lights
The CR123A (123A=one 2/3 A size) are shorter but fatter battery than AAA. So a 1xCR123A light such as Sgt. LED's P1 CE is shorter but fatter (the whole light is as wide as the head of the Dorcy AAA). Because the batteries are double the voltage of the AAA the lights are also much brighter. Problem is they are usually expensive locally. Care should also be taken when using them. All the exploding flashlights mentioned on CPF seem to be using 123A batteries (usually multiple 123A)
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Batteries:
Disposable:
Carbon Zinc (Heavy Duty) - Cheap, no power, leaks. 1.5V Voltage drops as the battery is used..
Alkalines - Double the power of Carbon Zinc. 1.5V Voltage drops as the battery is used. 5 to 7 year shelf claimed, leaks after 3, often before that. Recommended to store batteries outside of whatever it is to be used in.
Primary Lithiums (Energizer e2 L92) - Expensive, most power. 10+ years shelf life. Works in extreme temperatures. 1.7V maintains voltage well during use.
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Rechargeable:
All the rechargeables maintain voltage well during use UNO. Usually also handle high current well. Time between recharges are for batteries not used.
NiCD (NiCD=Nickel Cadmium)- Cheapest, Cadmium harmful to environment. Need recharging every week. 1.2V
NiMH (regular) (NiMH=Nickel Metal Hydride) - Need recharging every month or 2. 1.2V
LSD NiMH (LSD=Low Self Discharge) - About 80% the capacity of regular NiMH when freshly charged but holds the charge better so after sitting for a couple of months LSD NiMH will have more capacity than regular NiMH. 1.2V
Sanyo Eneloop - Need recharging every year.
RayOvac Hybrid - Need reharging every 6 months.
Kodak also sells them as well as some mail order battery places under their own brands. Also available as the Hybrio outside North America.
10440 Li-on (10=10mm diameter, 44=44mm long, 0=cylindrical battery, Li-on=Lithium ion) - 3.6V (4.2V when freshly charged). High voltage not suitable for use in AAA devices, may fry the components. Li-on batteries are more explosion prone than other types especially if used incorrectly. Some flashlights have circuits designed to handle them (Liteflux LF2, Huntlight FTA3, Ultrafire 602C-SSC (the LED in the 602C with 1 watt luxeon will burn out, the 602C/10440 package at DX has a 3 watt LED)). The Fenix AAA lights are NOT designed to use them. Some CPF members have used them in Fenix lights (Luxeon and Cree) and the lights have survived and no battery has blown up yet.
Rechargeable Alkalines - Before NiMH these were popular as an alternative to NiCD. 1.5V dropping with use. Can be charged up to 25 times (HA!). Cannot handle high loads. Leaks. Sold under the RayOvac Renewel and Pure Energy brand names.
