NovaTac EDC T and E Models CRACKED! Back Door/Easter egg found!

[Lumenous]

no prob. for the link, and yes it's the SS clip polished with a small amount of brasso for protection. i put a little silicon on it once every week or two, just to make sure it doesn't start to pit. i don't think it will be a problem. if you polish it to the point where it looks like it has a coating on it, it will take a lot to stain, or start the rusting process. 350, 400, 600, 1500 grit works perfect with little effort (with a little shot o' oil on the last 1500 step), the coating on all the SS (bezel included) doesn't take much to get off. it looks awesome on the black models, i like the the black clip on the NA HA better though. i'm about to get some Ti, or stainless bezels from RPM soon. i was thinkin of taking a trip to the machine shop next weekend and having some bezels made, something different, but i haven't come up with the design yet. something that has the same profile as the tall RPM bezels, but maybe with different crenallations??? who knows!!!

I've been away for a few days. Thanks for the thorough explanation. I'm going to try that out. The contrast between the SS and the black body makes the flashlight look real nice.

 

[tx101]

I dont think its a good idea to keep trying the 250 click thing repeatly in one
go. Try it, if you fail leave it for 30 minutes and then come back and try again.
Your arm/finger gets tried and when frustration sets in you press too hard.

Thats my 2 cents

 

[cdosrun]

Is there any way of taking the switch apart and cleaning it? There has to be a way to fix it rather than replace it.

I haven't played around with mine too much because I have the 120P but my switch was playing up at one point in that it wasn't working reliably with every press. By removing the retaining ring behind the switch, you can remove the PCB which has a low profile momentary contact switch on it, covered by some clear tape. All I did was to squirt some switch cleaner through the holes on the reverse of the PCB, under the switch and work it a bit by clicking, mine has been fine since.

Andrew

 

[streetmaster]

I dont think its a good idea to keep trying the 250 click thing repeatly in one
go. Try it, if you fail leave it for 30 minutes and then come back and try again.
Your arm/finger gets tried and when frustration sets in you press too hard.

Thats my 2 cents

Too true! I can speak from experience.

I got so frustrated I nearly threw my NovaTac. Then I would have REALLY been mad. :devil:

But I took a break, and that's when I figured out the "bezel down on the desk" trick to make the clicking easier. If you hold your thumb against your middle finger for stability, and use your middle finger for the clicking, it's your best chance at getting it right.

And don't think about click-hold once you get the 250. Just hold for a sec and release once you see it start to flash. Then you're in the options menu. Don't try to get that last click in there before you hold. If you do, it causes you to pause and that'll mess you up. You should have the manual in front of you opened to the page that shows the menu options so you can go right to where you need to at a glance. Otherwise, you won't know what to do once you get there and it will reset itself.


cdosrun wrote:

I haven't played around with mine too much because I have the 120P but my switch was playing up at one point in that it wasn't working reliably with every press. By removing the retaining ring behind the switch, you can remove the PCB which has a low profile momentary contact switch on it, covered by some clear tape. All I did was to squirt some switch cleaner through the holes on the reverse of the PCB, under the switch and work it a bit by clicking, mine has been fine since.

Thanks for that info. I knew there had to be something you could do. Because the switch isn't wearing out, it's just getting dirty.

I just don't want people to think they have to buy a $20 tailcap if their switch is acting up. I realize some folks won't want to bother with taking it apart, but some will.

 

[tequilathursday]

Hey guys. Thanks for the help. I finally got it to program, screwed it up by enabling tactical momentary or something. Did another factory reset, re read the manual twice, reprogrammed to my liking and works like a charm. I should have read the last couple posts about the switches because first thing this morning I ordered a new switch. oh well... At least I got plenty of finger exercising lol

Anyway.... Thanks again for your assistance



TT

 

[LLCoolBeans]

I'm going to change the title of this thread today. If you have an objection, please speak up.

 

[streetmaster]

I'm going to change the title of this thread today. If you have an objection, please speak up.

No objections here. Did you decide on the title?

 

[LLCoolBeans]

I'm thinking:

NovaTac EDC - The Missing Manual (Undocumented Features Discovered!)

 

[streetmaster]

Sounds good.

 

[The Sun]

I'm thinking:

NovaTac EDC - The Missing Manual (Undocumented Features Discovered!)

sounds awesome!!! and BTW, thank you for also activating my new "hord Novatac's" phase, i am in the process of buying any and all Novatacs in the free world. i think i have like three more coming tomorrow my OCD kicked in thanks a million :drunk::sleepy::santa:

 

[LLCoolBeans]

To all of you who have thanked me, you are quite welcome. I appreciate your praise, but I could not have done it without the help and support of the flashlight community, especially the resources available to me, here at CPF. So, please thank yourselves.

 

[streetmaster]

sounds awesome!!! and BTW, thank you for also activating my new "hord Novatac's" phase, i am in the process of buying any and all Novatacs in the free world. i think i have like three more coming tomorrow my OCD kicked in thanks a million :drunk::sleepy::santa:

Hey The Sun, if you accidentally end up with one too many, I would give it a nice home. :laughing: I only have one, with one black Storm on preorder. But like yourself, I am in love with NovaTac at the moment. :buddies:

 

[The Sun]

To all of you who have thanked me, you are quite welcome. I appreciate your praise, but I could not have done it without the help and support of the flashlight community, especially the resources available to me, here at CPF. So, please thank yourselves.

no really thank you i just took the pictures JK!


-streetmaster- i just don't get it, i'm tradin' lights, sellin' them on CPFM and the sort just to feed my Novatac hunger. i'll probably regret it later, but i love these little things. i can't wait til the pre-orders come in so we can see if the clicky-tricky works on them. i have two low serial 120T's on hold for me at botach right now that i'm gonna seal the deal on tomorrow. they have some still left if anyone else is still interested in them. i emailed them to make sure and they were very helpful locating them for me.

 

[Imworking]

In keeping with the current 250 click fever, I went back and reprogrammed my girlfriends HDS B42, worked like a charm. She looked at me like a special needs child when I told her that I hacked her light (it was mine but I lost control of it) so it remembered her last setting. She uses it as a nightlight on the .3 setting but does not seem to be able to master the triple click action. This way it just stays on ultra low for her. The nice thing is it retains the settings after battery replacement. This has been one very useful thread.

 

[streetmaster]

-streetmaster- i just don't get it, i'm tradin' lights, sellin' them on CPFM and the sort just to feed my Novatac hunger. i'll probably regret it later, but i love these little things. i can't wait til the pre-orders come in so we can see if the clicky-tricky works on them. i have two low serial 120T's on hold for me at botach right now that i'm gonna seal the deal on tomorrow. they have some still left if anyone else is still interested in them. i emailed them to make sure and they were very helpful locating them for me.

I wish I could afford to get another one from Botach. That's where I got mine, and I'm pretty sure they may be the only people that still have the low-serial ones in stock. I guess I'll just have to wait (seems like forever:mecry for the Storms to come in at YourCornerStore.

 

[Daniel_sk]

What is considered a low serial number? So I can email botach and asked them if they have any left (and a shipping quote to Slovakia).

So I can just buy the E model and transform it into the more expensive P model?

 

[streetmaster]

What is considered a low serial number? So I can email botach and asked them if they have any left (and a shipping quote to Slovakia).

So I can just buy the E model and transform it into the more expensive P model?

Anything in the 1XXXX and 2XXXX runs are considered better. The ones in the recent batch 3XXXX have been updated and have slight differences in build.

 

[Daniel_sk]

Thanks. Anyway, I've just found out that Botach is not "international-shipping friendly", they take only bank wire transfers from non-US customers, which is too expensive, slow, not safe. I'll have to find a similar deal somewhere else.

 

[LLCoolBeans]

So I can just buy the E model and transform it into the more expensive P model?

Well, yes and no. A better way to describe it would be that they are the same light only with different default settings.

Nothing will transform an E into a P, but the E can do everything that the P can do.

 

[prime77]

Guys I need help. I'm trying to do this to my 120E. I do the 250 ckicks, it starts to flash and then I click and hold. Then I click nine times and I keep getting what I think is the error message. It flashes 5 or six times and stays on what I think is primary. What am I doing wrong?