OK! OK! I will do a 2nd run of M6-R's

js

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OK. Links:

The SF M6-R part 1 (original thread)

Brightnorm's review

The summary thread

And there are others, but you should find the links within the threads posted above.

unnerv,

Not a problem. But you should understand that building an M6-R is far more difficult than just making up a pack and connecting some wires to a regulator. When I post the construction details thread you will see what I mean, but just for starters you have to decide on how you are going to bring the negative output from the LVR, and the positive output from the battery pack (the LVR just passes the positive--only the negative is switched) and have them mate electrically and mechanically with the top and bottom springs inside the M6. Also, you need to figure out how in the world you are also going to connect (within the same pack) directly to the plus and minus contacts of the pack itself. It is a wiring nightmare.

And that's not all! The springs are pretty agressive little guys and will cut into most anything. I eneded up having to go to silver BRAZE on top of 1/16" copper sheet end caps. But not just anything can cut 1/16" copper into rounded triangles without deforming the plane of the triangle.

You know, I really hope at least one person tries to build his or her own pack. I would absolutely love to talk on the phone and commiserate about all the difficulties and catastrophes and frustrations involved in making an M6-R pack. That would be so great!

So, I'm not trying to scare you away from doing it, but definitely keep an eye out for the construction details thread so you can think through exactly how you are going to duplicate my various steps and procedures before you commit to dropping no small amount of money on two LVR3I's set for the MN21 HOLA driven by 9 NiMH cells.
 

Turd_Ferguson

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You won't be seeing this one on B/S/T. It's the darn handiest thing to pick up that M6 and just shine it care free. Now, I need a backup. JS, you are a kind man!

Woo hoo!

M6R006.jpg
 

js

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kakster said:
Is this open for buyers from the first batch? Id love a second pack.

Of course! It's open to anyone but re-sellers. I won't make 5 or 10 packs up for someone so that he or she can re-sell at a higher price or something. In fact, I really would frown upon someone having more than 2 packs total, first run included, and would require a good explanation as to why he or she needed 3 or more packs.

But if you want a second pack, no problem. When the signup thread opens, simply place your order. It will be a number of months from now, though. Something like Feb.
 

unnerv

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Hey Jim, thanks for the warning, but I think I can probably do it. I have made several custom battery holders including one for a 6 123A holder and have a lathe and mill at home for any of the metal work that might need to be done. I would be perfectly happy to comisserate with you after I am done with the process and it would be 2 less that you would have to do. I actually have all the batteries for 2 packs sitting on my desk as I thought aquiring the regulator from Willie Hunt would be easier.

Anyway thanks for the offer and the warning and let me know when to send the paypal.
 

js

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unnerv,

Excellent! So when you're finished we will swap not only stories of our frustrations and difficulties, but also our SUCCESS stories as well.

BTW, you wouldn't consider doing the 2nd run for me if you feel up to it, would you?

Everyone,

Remember that I will be limiting this 2nd run to 30 packs, so be sure to sign up ASAP when I open the 2nd run signup thread, in case we run up against the 30 pack limit. If you are on the notify list, you will get an email warning a week or two before the thread opens.

Also, keep in mind that I will need at least 15 orders to float this 2nd run, and also, I will need to be able to get the LVR's from Willie Hunt. He has always responded to my emails or phone calls sooner or later, which you'd expect, given that I've probably spent $2k on his regulators over the past year, but he is a busy guy and gets busier all the time. There is absolutely no guarantee that he will even continue offering large LVR orders. He could stop doing that, just like he stopped doing the small LVR orders. And I will not consider switching regulators. It would be a major pain. Space is a serious issue with the M6-R pack and I have everything worked out just so for the LVR. I will not go through the pain and frustration again. As it was, I had to "modify" the stock LVR3I configuration by having Willie leave off the button entirely, and by remote mounting the MOSFET. And by either mouting R3 special on the back of the board, or (in the case of the production run) having Willie re-work the board layout so that R3 goes on the front of the board (which is actually facing inwards towards the pack).

Anyway, just keep in mind that the 2nd run depends upon these two factors, as well as upon my physical and mental wellbeing.
 

unnerv

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Thanks js for doing this for us. Unfortunately my free time comes in small chunks far a few between, so I doubt I could commit to taking over the second run. If I lag on my own pack only I miss out, but I wouldn't want to be responsible for holding up other people's enjoyment of your creation. I will definately let you know how things go though. It sounds like it will definately be an interesting project.
 

Prolepsis

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Haha, Jim, that's awesome. Just please take care of your back/health first.

I think I'll need to be in on the second run, though I might be on the tail end of the first run. I still use my Field Tester pack ALL the time and the thing is awesome. Have the Tiger mods from Jim and a Mag2HID but yet, I still always use the M6-R. :)

Jim might hate me for reposting this link, but if you aren't convinced you want one, yet you have an M6, check this out. Note that the difference in real life is MUCH MORE PRONOUNCED, whereas in the picture, the lights look to be similar in brightness after a few minutes.
 

Lunal_Tic

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I'm really interested in this setup but I've got Waffler's Syndrome. I've got a MC with a WA1160 and a fivemega 700L w/WA1166. My problem is that though they put out a lot of light they don't throw all that well.

If you guy's haven't seen my thread 700L vs Surefire M6 = disappointed? , please poke your head in there and give me a little more insight.

Thanks,
-LT
 

js

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LT,

The SureFire M6 won't throw significantly better than the MC with 1160. So if that dissapoints you, you should probably pass on the M6. I'm not a throw fanatic, so I really don't know what light to tell you to check out for MORE throw than an MC60. The TigerLight, MC60, and M6 all have enough throw for my taste. I know the Maxabeam has incredible throw, but that's probably out of the question.

Anyway, you have PLENTY of time to waffle! I won't be opening the 2nd run signup thread for months. At this point I'm thinking February of 2006.
 

Lunal_Tic

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Thanks for the info Jim. I still have a time limit on the M6 though. The problem I have with the MC is that it diffuses quickly in particulate or humid air. With a tighter more defined spot it will get through the garbage in the air better. Seems the air over here has a bit of both in it at least until winter comes.

Of course there's always the style factor and the M6 wins that hands down. :D

-LT
 

bwaites

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LT,

The M6 spot is BIGGER than the MC spot. The MC with 1160 or another of the WA lamps can be focused tighter than the M6.

The M6 hotspot is a big, heavy spot, but it is more diffuse than the 1160 MC or 1111 Tigerlight when properly focused to tightest spot/best throw.

Bill
 

bwaites

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LT,

The "butterfly" is actually a shadow of the filament shape, diffused by bouncing around in the smooth reflector.

The "perfect circle" spot of Surefires is created by using a VERY shiny, but rough, reflector. The closest I have seen to this coating is a heavy stipple from Carley or a Medium-Heavy OP from one of Modamags suppliers.

The more stippling or orange-peel you use, the less throw you have. Maximum and tightest throw comes from a properly designed, but smooth, reflector.

To get that "laser like" narrow beam a bigger reflector helps, but to make it artifact free, you must use some kind of orange-peel or stippling.

In fact, the absolute best throw with a transverse filament has that "butterfly" or bilobed effect you are seeing. It occurs because the ends of the filament are closer to the reflector than the middle.

You CAN blur the butterfly into a roughly oval pattern, but you lose throw doing that.

The other option is to use an axial filament, (one which runs up and down the bulb, instead of perpindicular (transverse).

That has it's tradeoffs as well, since it can't be focused as tightly, and you don't get quite as much throw, but you get a more even pattern. That is the choice I settled on for the USL, but it puts out so much light it hardly matters!

Hope that helps your dilemma!!

Bill
 

js

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Bill,

Excellent post. Nice writeup.

Everyone,

I continue to be amazed at the level of interest in the M6-R. Amazed. It is flattering, thrilling, and humbling all at once.

HarryN, unnerv, MSax, et alia,

I was only half-serious about someone taking over the 2nd build run, in part or in total. It's something that really has to be done by me, start to finish. My wife helps with some of the work, such as removing shrink wrap, prepping cell contacts, and cutting lengths of wires and so on, but the greater part of it I must do myself. It's quite the integrated process, and changing one step would almost certainly impact the others. And the devil is in the details, as they say.
 

Lunal_Tic

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Bill,

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to get some bulbs that Lurveleven recommended to try out before I make a decision. I like the idea of the M6 but I don't want to have a Surefire as a shelf queen, that just strikes me odd.

-LT
 
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