p61 lamp with a light saver tail cap

[IlikeLEDs]

Hi,

Wonderig if anyone out there is running a g2/6p etc type surefire with a p61 (120 lumens) lamp and using a LIGHTSAVER® MISER™ MULTI-FUNCTION TAILCAP SWITCH UPGRADE (which claims to allowed being able to control the out put via clicking the switch i.e 100%, 70%, 50% and etc etc)? IF so, how is that working for people? on a stardard setup, p61 gives 120 lumens for 20mins. But by having a tail cap where you can control the output, i'm thinking you could increase the runtime alot longer, depending on how much output you choose to use?

Does anyone run this setup and if so, feel free to share your thoughts/feedback.

Cheers!

 

[angelofwar]

I'm currently using this set up w/ a G2 and a G2 w/ a KRB1 rechargeable kit...I feel it's one of the best set-up's...if you want 60 lumens, click it twice...you get the best of both worlds...120/60/30 lumens (apporximately). The best advantage is the 120 lumens...it's better to have and not need it, to need it and not have it. It's my primary slef defense light (aka my "back-up")...first click, a 120 lumen "blast" to the face, but will also work as a back-up light when my primary dies, I justy click it down to 30 and go about searching for whatever I lost. Enough rambling on my part... I think it's a great set-up!

 

[nzgunnie]

Isn't the lamp horribly underdriven and yellow? These lamps are designed to be run pretty hard, under driving them can't be good.

Is this not a better set up for LEDs?

 

[angelofwar]

Isn't the lamp horribly underdriven and yellow? These lamps are designed to be run pretty hard, under driving them can't be good.

Is this not a better set up for LEDs?

Well, the Light Saver instructions tell ya not to use it with an LED (not sure why though), but as far as under driving it, I use it mainly as a self defense light, so it's more than likely going to be used at the 120 lumens(100%) setting. The 50 and 25% settings are just back up options, and are there "just in case"...the strobe at 120 Lumens makes for a great "hands free", "Attention Getter/Rescue Strobe", especially with a red filter.

 

[IlikeLEDs]

Hi Guys,

I'm abit skeptical really. I finally got a p61 and the light saver multifuction tail cap set up on my G2 and i finally got a chance to use it out bush this week.... Umm the jury is still out i think. Surefire claims that P61 at a 120lumens will only last for 20 mins? Well with the tail cap and the different output setting, i guess it did last longer than 20mins? maybe an hour or so if i add up all the times that it was on 120? I suppose thats a good thing on paper but i'm skeptical as to where i'm getting the 'bang' i paid for? The apprent 120 lumens (purely judging by the naked eye) seems to be a little be brighter than 60lumens but i'm not sure i can convincely tell the difference?! i dont have a second light that is 60 lumens to compare really?

I was also disappointed (by unrealistic expectations) quiet disappointed with the throw. It seemed to be about the throw you get on a p60? A quick check of the flashlightsreviews.com throw and output chart has confirmed this. Yes yes i know a stupid assumptiong to make in hindsight but a rookie mistake to assume that more power= more throw. Atleast i've learnt that.

But i suppose my delima is that i want an off the shelf (no modding) tac light that is a g2 sized (no longer than 6.5inches) operationing on either rechargable and or 123's that has an awesome amount of throw (more the 80meters) and that pumps out about 120lumens or more.......does such a light exist? Fenix tactical series lights claim to be putting out around the 225lumen mark but flashlight review hasn't reviewed it and there are very few 'credible' reviews on the web?? But then again, with high output.... come the juice being sucked out of your light within about an hour?! So the question is, the criteria i'm after (120 lumens and above, huge throw, hand held tac light size and battery life longer than an 1hour on a stock standard off the shelf ) is that achieveable? Any suggestions?

Am i better off taking my chances and buying a Fenix TK11 where i can use a 18650 3.7v rechargeable or stock standard 2x 123a's and not really know if it will give me the sort of throw i want for about $70 (TK11) and $30 (18650 batt and charger?) or should i just cought up $250 and get a surefire M3, with the MN 11 (225lumens) lap, stick the light saver multi function tail cap i have now on it and use that setup?

Or am i simply asking for something that technology just hasn't been able to produce yet? Please share you thoughts guys.

Cheers.

 

[hyperloop]

EDIT: apologies if posting is in the wrong sub-forum, just noticed that this was in the Incan and not LED sub-forum

How about the Olight M20? Look for that on light-reviews.com, runtimes on high look very respectable, it's got a few different modes so that you can switch between them as required. Also can run on CR123s rechargeable CR123s (16340) and 18650s, very versatile.

Alternative is the Jetbeam Jet III Pro ST, i personally own one of these and find it to be a great light, throw on max hits easily 50 meters and that is in heavily light polluted environments. Runs on 18650 only.

Downer for me is the runtime on high but for my personal usage, i dont foresee having to be on high continuously for that long, and if it was THAT dark, my backup Fenix E01 is sufficient. In any event, the Jetbeam's minimum output is a really low low, as in below 10 lumens (to my eye and in comparision with the E01) so that would give you loads of runtime.

 

[mdocod]

Hi,

Wonderig if anyone out there is running a g2/6p etc type surefire with a p61 (120 lumens) lamp and using a LIGHTSAVER® MISER™ MULTI-FUNCTION TAILCAP SWITCH UPGRADE (which claims to allowed being able to control the out put via clicking the switch i.e 100%, 70%, 50% and etc etc)? IF so, how is that working for people? on a stardard setup, p61 gives 120 lumens for 20mins. But by having a tail cap where you can control the output, i'm thinking you could increase the runtime alot longer, depending on how much output you choose to use?

Does anyone run this setup and if so, feel free to share your thoughts/feedback.

Cheers!

I don't generally recommend any sort of dimming feature on an incan setup. Incans loose considerable efficiency when under-driven.


Reserve dimming options for LEDs IMO, they are useless in incan configurations, the runtime gain is not worth the lumen loss. LEDs get more efficient as they are dimmed down, they are much better candidates for multi-output flashlights.

Get a powerful incan setup, and back it up with a lower output or multi-mode LED setup.

Eric

 

[IlikeLEDs]

I don't generally recommend any sort of dimming feature on an incan setup. Incans loose considerable efficiency when under-driven.


Reserve dimming options for LEDs IMO, they are useless in incan configurations, the runtime gain is not worth the lumen loss. LEDs get more efficient as they are dimmed down, they are much better candidates for multi-output flashlights.

Get a powerful incan setup, and back it up with a lower output or multi-mode LED setup.

Eric

Umm, interesting. There was a mention of that previously as well? The actual tail cap packaging from Lightsaver actually recommends that you don't use it with an led? Why is that? Has anyone used it with an LED lamp before? if so, whats the results?

 

[Bullzeyebill]

There is Streamlight tailcap dimmer switch available for the SL20X that uses PWM working off of the max output of the light. js reviewed and found that it did not underdrive the lamp and the frequency was so fast that the lamp maintained a good working temperature, avoiding extreme color shifts, and maintaining the halogen cycle. If this light saver switch uses similiar PWM it may be ok. Not sure how much current it needs to run the PWM. js felt that ramping up was a good way to start up the lamp, sort of a soft start, so to speak.

Bill

 

[angelofwar]

If you want more throw in a G2 size package, go for one of the SF KT1 turboheads. Same "output", more throw. All

 

[angelofwar]

If you want more throw in a G2 size package, go for one of the SF KT1 turboheads. Same "output", more throw. All though the head is too big for pocket EDC, it will work as a vehicle, or jacket carry, light fine.

 

[Blindasabat]

I have an E-series compatible one and a C-series on the way. The E series I tried so far does not work LEDs. It only strobes. It works relatively well with Incans if you can accept the tradeoff of orange tint shift with the lower lumens and longer run time. With all the LED I tried, it just strobes like a disorienting tactical strobe. The PWM is not nearly fast enough to work with LEDs. I'd guess around 15Hz. You need over 100Hz (preferably well over 1000Hz) PWM with LEDs so you can't notice it very often (varies with use and viewer).
I've read that the C-Miser cap works with Malkoffs in another thread, but can't verify that myself. I think it would have to use a much higher PWM frequency or the specific driver has some effective capacitance to smooth out the power flow seen from the Miser TC.

<< Edit: mine works on 3V as well - that is all I have in E-series incan >>

Umm, interesting. There was a mention of that previously as well? The actual tail cap packaging from Lightsaver actually recommends that you don't use it with an led? Why is that? Has anyone used it with an LED lamp before? if so, whats the results?

 

[angelofwar]

Hever noticed anything with my P60L's, but when I put my KL5A on there, it intermittently blinked VERY low...I guess the tail caps still have the same function as the IQ Mini-M@g tailcaps with the "find me" red blinking LED's...and maybe this will drain the abtterys???

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Isn't the lamp horribly underdriven and yellow? These lamps are designed to be run pretty hard, under driving them can't be good.

Actually the incan is seeing full power to the bulb, but it turns on and off, so we see diminished output. The off time is not long enough for the filament to cool down too much, so temp stays up. We see the light as having lower intensity probably due to the difference in time the light is on, less light in a given time frame equals less apparent output. Also, as plus the on off of bulb requires less current from battery, so longer runtime at lower levels. May not make sense, and hard for a layman to convey.

Bill

 

[Youfoundnemo]

May I suggest getting 2 IMR 16340 batteries from AW (a cpf member) and then get a P91 from surefire (or the marketplace) its 200+ lumens of guilt free lumens (rechargable) and it throws quite well, I can make out the shape of a deer at 200 yards (but Ive never taken any interest in the deer I see....) =D