photosensor on torch

Enzo Morocioli

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
626
Location
Cambria, CA
Hello..
Any such thing as a photo sensor, from a nightlight, being attached to the bezel and wired to the circuit of a light?
Hooked up in such a way that reflected light off a wall, or book page would dim the output, and then as soon as you aimed the light into an open room or field it would burn at full output?
 
Well i went out a bought a nightlight.. It uses 120VAC to power up a little 2watt incandecent bulb...

I first tried to wire a 3.7v li-ion to the two posts that would normally plug into the wall, and i couldn't get anything to power up.. Yeah... figured..

Basically what i want to do is use the photocell that is built into the nightlight to control a lux1... I want to find out a way to take the photocell off of the nightlight, wire it in such a way that it could dim and brighten the LED and use a li-ion 3.7v source to drive the setup..

How would i go about doing this? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance..
 
Check out this post;

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=291391

Like you stated, what you have is a photocell. All it is, is a resistor that changes with light input, nothing else, so it won't really do anything by itself unless you know what to do with it... As the most futile starting point, you should get a multimeter and meter the resistance in total darkness and sunny light so you know what you're dealing with.. In a device that's already set-up and ready to go, it might be easier (than the aforementioned post), but a photoresistor isn't the way to go... what you want to do is control the light output (current) depending on the ambient light.. Depending on the output of your flashlight you MIGHT be able to get a photo-transistor/diode/resistor to "plug and play" suit the circuit... It all depends on the numbers... Is there any way you could tap into the LED circuit of your flashlight and give me some voltage/current specs?? Without any serious damage?? Not from the battery contacts, I need the LED output itself... I need to know what is cruising through and across the led's themselves!

Honestly, It's a KICKASS idea... imagine a ultimate light, one that would dim to read a book, light up to illuminate a room, then explode with light once you're outside in total darkness. Like in the post i mentioned at the beginning, somebody mentioned using this in a caving situation... It is TOTALLY doable, and would rock major ***... Still, it's quite an undertaking... An "ultimate" version would take alot of technology, and at a minimum would require a user input for different modes or sensitivities..... I just don't think there's enough light reflected back to make a circuit like this work for every situation... Maybe caving, at most, but it's still going to end up with a bypass switch to get full brightness, i can just tell......
^ What happens when you want to shine your light at something close, and have it bright?? what happens when the light reflects off certain materials, glass/water/dirt?? Surely you'd have to revamp the design for specific intended uses; caving, home, outside, boating, even snow, rain or sand dunes could mess up the effect... also, a "home-made version" would probably just use 1 or possibly 2 "detectors"... An ideal light would have an omnipotent detector, that works regardless or orientation.. What about walking down a hallway or tight spaces?? Would you ALWAYS want to hold the light in a certain position so the ONE or 2 photoresistor(s) is aimed right??

I hate to say it, *again*, but something like this just REQUIRES a PIC and alot of knowledge.. You'd never meet the space requirements and have it useful in multiple situations.., unless you had a PIC, and a totally revamped light...

However, if you are driven, I am confident you/we could make something work, but I think it'd be limited in modes, for example; as a house light, 3 modes, (book/close up---smallroom/closet----big room/outside) or as an outside setup, 3 modes (map/close up----at feet/kinda close----far away/open space)... It's be really complicated and a large circuit to design something with a smooth response, in say -feet from target....

Am I making any sense??
 
However, I did just realize that on a home made version of this, most likely, depending on the circuit, but most likely,,, all you'd have to do is cover the detector or photo-reisistor/diode/transistor with your thumb and it'd go full bright.. Most photo-reactive device seem to "limit" as light is added..., using light as the catalyst to limit the flow (resistance, or current "pinching" on a phototransistor/diode)
 
I was thinking along the lines of an ultrasonic sensor to measure the distance to object

perhaps switching from flood the throw for objects at infinity
 
A simple photoresistor would be a perfect way to accomplish this, because the photoresistor could take the place of the fixed-value current regulation resistor in the regulator circuit. This is ingenious.

I wonder if the head threading on that Reflex light is Surefire-compatible?
 
That's the first time I've seen that Reflex light. What an ingenious design.

Apparently it's is machined by TnC. I can see a lot of design parallels with my Arc Mania SF-III. The body and finned section at the back of the head seem to be almost identical and the tailcap threading is very similar. My guess is that the head and body are machined as a single piece.
 
Bad idea. At least until the flashlight has Artificial intelligence, and can read your mind as to what you want illuminated, and at what range. What happens when you want to light up a dark alley and a small street light or something is picked up by the sensor? What happens when you want to shine a light on somebody in a defensive situation, and they point a light at you, and yours goes dim? What about car headlights? you want your light to dim everytime a car goes by? What happens when you want to light up your back yard, and it dims for the hand-rail on your deck? Just look at Auto-Exposure and Auto-Focus technology on digital cameras. It is very problematic. Only recently has there been cameras that anylize the scene, look for faces, and adjust exposure and focus. That only works for faces though. Sounds great, and all. But it's a can of worms.
 
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