Please help with quiestion on Nitecore

[Winx]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

Last week I got a D10 R2 to replace a burned Q5 version. Something is changed because the piston doesn't need to be pressed much. Piston also felt really sticky. I cleaned the original blue grease and applied Krytox 50/50 to the o-rings and threads. I didn't lube the whole piston. Now the piston moves very easily and doesn't stick at all.

I'm going to grind the piston a little, because I don't like the short movement.

 

[edc3]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

Last week I got a D10 R2 to replace a burned Q5 version. Something is changed because the piston doesn't need to be pressed much. Piston also felt really sticky. I cleaned the original blue grease and applied Krytox 50/50 to the o-rings and threads. I didn't lube the whole piston. Now the piston moves very easily and doesn't stick at all.

I'm going to grind the piston a little, because I don't like the short movement.

My 1st run D10 has a much shorter piston travel than my 1st run EX10. I wonder what the tolerance in piston length is? Never thought of grinding it. Wouldn't need to take much off. I'd be interested how it works out.

 

[gunga]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

Sanding/filing/grinding the piston does work, I've done it a couple times to increase switch travel.

Be VERY careful and slow though. You want some of the piston to stick out above the body, if you file too much, the light won't latch on and will stay as momentary only.

YOu can also remove the outer ring of the spring inside the piston (where it can overlap the other coils when compressed) to soften the action a bit too.

I do a lot of tweaking to get my D10s running right.

:naughty:

 

[henry1960]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

Silicone lubricate works great. High film strength, stays put. Water repellent. Wont run or melt. Effective from -20to +600 degreas f. Prevents freezing and harmless to rubber. :thumbsup:

 

[DHart]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

Silicone lubricate works great. High film strength, stays put. Water repellent. Wont run or melt. Effective from -20to +600 degreas f. Prevents freezing and harmless to rubber. :thumbsup:

What if the o-ring is silicone? That's more likely than it being real rubber, isn't it? Have read that petro lubes degrade rubber o-rings and the silicone lubes degrade silicone o-rings... guessing that most rings are more likely to be made from silicone than from rubber... of from something else??? It's difficult to know what to use. Best bet, I guess, is to have a source for more o-rings if needed (where you can determine for sure of the composition) and then lube with whatever seems to work best.

 

[leon2245]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

What if the o-ring is silicone? That's more likely than it being real rubber, isn't it? Have read that petro lubes degrade rubber o-rings and the silicone lubes degrade silicone o-rings... guessing that most rings are more likely to be made from silicone than from rubber... of from something else??? It's difficult to know what to use. Best bet, I guess, is to have a source for more o-rings if needed (where you can determine for sure of the composition) and then lube with whatever seems to work best.

That's a good question, and this is O.T. but do we know which brands of lubes the different manufacturers themselves use on their lights, when they put them together?

I would like to know which lubes Fenix, N.C. & S.F. use on their lights & if it's available for purchase by consumers.

 

[CaNo]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

Its kind of funny that I came across this thread.

I had used a plumbers Silicone Grease to lube up all my lights with excellent results, that is until I lubed up my D10 R2's Piston. The clicky was stiff as a board, but I did not mind, since I have always been afraid of it turning on inside my pocket, since it does not take much pressure to turn the light on. But after reading some of the posts about cleaning the lube, I went and got my D10, and took off alot of layers of lube off the piston, and now the light is easier to press, but still gives me enough tension so it wont accidently turn on in my pocket! It's just funny that it took a simple thread like this for me to attempt to clean my light of excess lube! haha Newbie moment!

 

[DHart]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

I think with most D10s (especially since the R2's were released, apparently), pressing the piston in typically takes more pressure than many of us are accustomed to doing. No matter how I clean or lube my D10-R2, it still requires a fairly significant amount of force to activate. Not necessarily a bad thing, but definitely takes getting used to.

 

[CaNo]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

Exactly it is not necessarily a bad thing. Like I said earlier, if the light is too easy to turn on, chances are it will turn on in your pocket without you knowing (like it did for me before I had lubed it up). The tension is only a bad thing if you have arthritis... then I can see where it can become problematic.

 

[Arkiv N]

Re: Nitecore D10 Hard To Press Issue

I haven't notice that problem at all. And i have tried out a few D10. But I guess the more you use the D10 and lubricate the o-ring, the better the PD fits.

 

[carl8190]

Overheating?

I just took my nightcore d10 out on a walk with me and it gets hot very quickly. It takes only 2 mins before it feels like its going to melt. Whats the problem can anyone advise and what should I do

 

[kramer5150]

Re: Overheating?

Keep it moving and keep cool air circulating over the light.
Keep the light in your hand, your hand can help draw heat away.

Set it to a lower output and use the higher output settings as-needed.

Other than that, I can't think of anything else. XR-E emitters in small lights at high currents will get very warm, in a short amount of time.

 

[carl8190]

Brightness level

I have a Nightcore D10 and the battery only last 30 mins on full till its dead not 50 mins to 50% brightness like stated on manafactures site.

Also does the fenix ld20 keep 100% brightness or does that too drop in brightness

Is there any light that keeps 100% brightness till the battery dies

 

[Larbo]

Re: Overheating?

I have a L2 that gets quite hot after 2 or 3 minutes, this is probability normal operation for your light also but limiting high / turbo to short bursts would not be a bad idea, (an expensive torch thats almost too hot to touch bugs me also).

 

[John_Galt]

Re: Brightness level

What kind of battery are you using? Not all batteries have the same capacity. It's prob'ly not a good idea to be using alkalines, which is what it sounds like you are using.

No, I'm pretty sure the LD20 dims slowly over time. But that is to be expected. As batteries drop in voltage, the light won't be able to maintain the same drive levels, and so will dim.
But Ni-MH (ie: Eneloops) batteries will maintain their voltages (~1.2v) until they're pretty much dead.

I think most lights (read: those that are accurately tested) are rated in runtime to 50% of their original output.

Also, LED's vary in forward voltages, and your light may have a particularly high vf LED in it. This means less runtime, on the same battery set up, as compared to an LED with a lower vf.

 

[John_Galt]

Re: Overheating?

A small light has limited mass to passively cool the LED. As stated above, holding the light in the palm of your hand, as well as limiting the runtimes in turbo will help keep it from overheating. This is probably the biggest problem with small single cell lights. I, personally, would gladly trade a small compact light for a larger light, with more mass for the heatsink, at any time.

 

[carl8190]

Re: Brightness level

Im using eneloops but they are only lasting 30-35mins till the light completly dies out.
Im a bit dissapointed as i thought it would last 50 mins before it even drained to 50% brightness.

 

[John_Galt]

Re: Brightness level

Well, like I said, there could be other factors involved in your particular case. Mass production does not mean everything made is exactly the same. As far as I have seen Eneloops take a few discharge/recharge cycles to reach full capacity, so take that into consideration.
Eneloops have a nominal capacity of ~2000 milliamps. Different types of batteries have different capacities, as stated above. Rechargeables don't have the capacity of primaries, so don't expect the same runtimes, if they did their test with a lithium primary, and you are using rechargable batt's.

 

[Marduke]

Re: Brightness level

How are you measuring runtime? What charger are you using? What shape are your cells in( as in true capacity)?

 

[SFG2Lman]

Re: Overheating?

i am one of the least educated here i am sure, but has anyone tried an aluminum canister with pressurized ammonium or nitrogen or something? Seems like that might be an albeit expensive but good way to keep the LED cool?