Purchased Surefire M962 whats needed to run rechargeables ? What Upgrades Possible ?

pc3

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Hi Folks I am new to this forum but have purchased an M962 Surefire lite to place on my firearms for some feral hog hunting at night.

I am wanting to know what and where are the items I need to buy to get it to run on rechargeables (as it seem thirsty !!). I have read it will take a 17500 Rechargeable, how many of these batteries will it take ?

Hopefully I have made a good chocie and the light will give me good service, I opted away frolm cheaper ones as I'd like to fit it to my Marlin 45/70 which does generate some recoil so I thought it would take some abuse.

Cheers pc3
 
Yes you chose a great light! It will take 2 x 17500 Li-ion cells.

Please read up on the use of these cells as they can be dangerous. See here --->http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=106242 and

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=201375


Thankyou for your help.......I suppose its a rifle light first and foremost so I may just use the batteries its designed for as its not as though you search with them its just after you aquire your target.

I read that there is a LED head upgrade available soon that puts out 350 Lumens.....I wonder with this head will it take rechargeables then ?
 
There are aftermarket LED heads for that model, and there is a forthcoming Surefire head. One of the aftermarket ones is nameless and is found on Ebay frequently; one is made by Lumens Factory and is fairly well respected around here. I'm pretty sure both will take rechargeables and you won't have to worry about recoil busting your bulb.
 
i'd order from Lumens Factory, they have great products, ordered their HO-A2 to replace the stock Surefire A2 bulb and it's brighter now and i can use 2x rechargeables in it.
 
i'd order from Lumens Factory, they have great products, ordered their HO-A2 to replace the stock Surefire A2 bulb and it's brighter now and i can use 2x rechargeables in it.

Can someone please point me to where I can buy these led heads and what model charger and rechargeable batteries I require I am also interested in where I will be able to buy the original sf led model head, will this mean the same model charger and rechargeable batteries will be used with the new genuine sf led head?
 
I would suggest that you read the various CPF stickies on Li-ions first, before buying any cells and chargers. Then do a search on Li-ions and their chargers. There have been plenty of threads on those subjects already, so doing some homework is a good idea.

It would be wise to use 2x17500 only on the MN10 lamp, not the higher output MN11. You will exceed the recommended 2C maximum discharge rate for a 17500 if you try to drive an MN11. Read mdocod's Li-ion/incandescent guide.

The M962 is a Millennium weaponlight and accepts Millennium threaded heads. Thus, the Seraph P7 TurboHead will fit. The OpticsHQ TX3 head will fit. The OpticsHQ TX4 will fit. Nailbender's D36 drop-ins will work (if you mod the Z46 head, or buy nailbender's turnkey setup that includes a mod'ed Chinese clone Z46 head). There are plenty of threads on all of these products.
 
Hello pc3,

I, as well as most here would suggest the AW protected 17500 cells and the Pila IBC charger. You can find them various places. Bugoutgear, flashlightz, CPF marketplace, lighthound, etc. I don't think any one single place carries both though unfortunately.

2x17500 should work fine provided you stay away from the MN11 bulb. The recoil of a firearm does pose the risk of damaging the protection circuit in li-ion cells. Theoretically, the tail-cap spring and center lamp spring should provide a form of shock isolation for the cells in this application. Most people with SF weapon lights just stick to SF brand CR123s to minimize failure points. In your application, which is more about dealing with vermin or pests, I don't see a major problem introducing this possible fail point as it's unlikely to be life threatening. if you are spending a lot of time with that light running going rechargeable will be a welcome change. If you use the same weapons for home defense I would recommend swapping back to a fresh set of CR123s when the weapon is put in it's "resting" position at the end of a night of vermin hunting. Another way to look at this, is that, by swapping to a LED head instead of using an incandecent bulb, you are reducing your likelihood of sudden failure by a very decent margin, probably more-so than the likelihood of failure being introduced by the protected li-ion cells. So overall the combination of the LED head and protected 17500 cells will have a net positive gain in reliability in my opinion.


Definitely have a look at this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=241792
In that thread I have a pair of beamshots comparing the performance of the mighty M6 MN21 bulb (about double the lumens compared to the MN11, quadruple the lumens compared to the MN10) to the LF P7 and the P7 module holds it's own just fine. This would lead me to believe that if you have been satisfied with the MN10/MN11 bulbs in your current configuration, that you will likely find this to work really well.

Be aware that reflector loaded incandecent bulbs put a higher percentage of total emitted light into the central beam compared to reflector loaded LEDs, which put a larger amount of total emitted light into the spill beam. This is a difference that some people don't care about but is very noticeable to me in use and is one reason I am often annoyed by LEDs when using them for ranged applications outdoors. I have personally found that while the P7 does produce an over-whelming pile of lumens, in actual use, a bulb with less than half the total lumens works just about as well down range, while consuming a similar amount of power. I think the only way for you to decide what you like or how you want to do this is to just buy the LED head and give it a try, if you don't like it, you can always sell it. You might try picking up a KT4 kit instead to get more throw, you could run it on a HO-M3T from LumensFactory and get some really amazing throw with 30 minutes runtime (do not run the EO-M3T or MN16 on 17500 cells, not enough capacity for a safe discharge rate there). Or go back to your Z46 head and try out a LumensFactory HO-M3 or EO-M3 lamp. (The HO-M3 is a strong thrower that should be a hair brighter overall than an MN10 but with slightly less runtime, the EO-M3 is just a slight step under a MN11 in total output but should throw at least as well if not better while having enough less power consumption to be safe for running on 17500 size cells).

Oh , one last thing, if you decide to pick up the LF P7 head, expect about 40-45 minutes runtime on 2x17500 cells.

There are a lot of options revolving around that host, in the end really finding what works best for you is going to require that you just try things.

Eric
 
Thanks,

so much for the help thus far. I see I have LOADS of stuff that I need to learn and will need to read what has been written here a few times in an attmept to get a handle on the terminology and a basic understanding. My knowledge base at the moment rightly or wrongly is basically that "sure fire is the best brand to buy" I have a lot of learning to do it seems.

I suppose I came here with an attitude that I am kind of happy to have someone "tell me what I should do for mods " with this light, it seems its not as simple as that Ha Ha !!
 
Oh forgot to ask how long before the genuine SF aftermarket head is availble and what shops will be selling it ?
 
Do a search for one of the "what would you like to see SureFire come out with this year" threads and I think your answer will be very clear ;)

Oh forgot to ask how long before the genuine SF aftermarket head is availble and what shops will be selling it ?

-hint-
Somewhere in the first 5 responses there is always a "the stuff from last years catalog" post. As it would turn out, this is not an exaggeration. Unfortunately, dreaming up a new product, and actually bringing it to market is often a much greater leap that expected going in.
 

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