Specialty Tools

Poppy

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Specialty tools are sometimes required to get a job done, IE, there is no way to get the job done without one. OTOH there are times that they just make the job so much easier, that they are worth the cost in time saved, and aggravation saved.

What tool did you use that saved the day, the last time you used it?
 

Poppy

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I'll start this thread off with:

Disc brake caliper tool set.

Yesterday I did rear brakes on my daughter's Mazda CX5.
The first time I did her brakes, was the first time I ran into calipers that screw in as much as they are compressed in. I managed with a pair of needle nosed plyers, and a screw driver. I also employed the use of a big C clamp to compress the caliper. It was quite the challenge.

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I discovered that they make a specialty tool for compressing the screw in type of calipers. So of course, I bought it. :)

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It took me a while to figure out how to use it, and to select the correct adapter, but once I did, it made compressing the cylinder of the caliper easy.
 

bykfixer

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A torque wrench, be it clicker kind or the beam type are ideal for ensuring the proper tension is applied between the bolt and object(s) being fastened together. I prefer the beam kind at times because it teaches me how much "finger pull" to apply at times when the torque wrench isn't available.

IMG_1096.jpeg

The beam wrench bends when pulling on it as a bolt is near tight. So using say, two fingers to bend it to a given number, or does it take three? Does it take four? Or full grip. Finger pull is when you have one finger loosely wrapped around the wrench and you tug on it until the finger tries to straighten out.

A ratheting right angle screw driver is an awesome tool at times.
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I also like in line finger ratchets where you can use your fingers to twist a screw down until finger tight then use the ratchet to finish. They also come in reveresable ratcheting type.
IMG_1095.jpeg

Shown is a fixed type.
Those don't eventually stop working like the ratcheting kind can over time.
 

Poppy

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Over the years, I bought a couple of these where it was a 1/4 drive on one side and 3/8 inch on the other. NOT this particular brand, but they failed on me, with not a lot of use. They are handy when they work though.
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PhotonWrangler

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Awhile back I was troubleshooting an IR remote control extender system that stopped working. I needed to confirm that the system was relaying the correct codes to the TV set so I used an IR decoder to confirm that the codes were being passed thru correctly.
IR_decoder.jpg
 

Fuzzywuzzies

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Nice purchase, @Poppy, worth every penny.
BTW, make sure you keep the oil changes up to the minute in that Mazda. They're a lovely vehicle, but "Delayed" servicing can have some disastrous consequences in those engines.
 

Got Lumens?

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I've got a 1/4" mini torque wrench that works phenomenal in the electrical fields.

Been there having to deal with calipers that screw in and not compress as with a regular C clamp.
I even have an obsolete caliper collapse tool. I only need to use it on bi-calipers.
 

IMA SOL MAN

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I had to do some work in a van, and about all the screws were Torx. Bought a set of Milwaukee Torx screwdrivers at ACE hardware, got home, opened them up and used them, then found out I already had some Torx screwdrivers and bits. Oh well, you can't have too many tools, right?
 
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IMA SOL MAN

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Don't you just HATE it when you pull out your torx set, find the right size and then discover there is a little tit inside the middle of the screw, so that your standard torx tip doesn't fit?

Harbor Freight To the rescue.

A Security bit set.

View attachment 50342
Yup! I bought a security set like that some years ago, but I can't remember where I bought it. Not HB, though, I do know that. Maybe SEARS. It looks a lot like the one in your photo.
 

PhotonWrangler

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A long time ago I serviced videotape machines among other things, both open reel and cassette systems. There is a specification for the amount of tension the tape is supposed to have as it's pulled along the transport mechanism by the capstan and take-up motors. This tension is measured with a device called a tentelometer. If the tape tension was too high or too low, the video wouldn't play back properly. If the tape was recorded with incorrect tension, it wouldn't play back properly on anyone else's machine, a condition called "out of interchange." To use it, the tentelometer is placed along the tape path while it's running, and the tension pushes on the middle pin of the gauge, producing the reading.

Haven't done this in years but I still have the gauge. (This is an example picture, not mine).
tentelometer.jpg
 

IMA SOL MAN

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A long time ago I serviced videotape machines among other things, both open reel and cassette systems. There is a specification for the amount of tension the tape is supposed to have as it's pulled along the transport mechanism by the capstan and take-up motors. This tension is measured with a device called a tentelometer. If the tape tension was too high or too low, the video wouldn't play back properly. If the tape was recorded with incorrect tension, it wouldn't play back properly on anyone else's machine, a condition called "out of interchange." To use it, the tentelometer is placed along the tape path while it's running, and the tension pushes on the middle pin of the gauge, producing the reading.

Haven't done this in years but I still have the gauge. (This is an example picture, not mine).
View attachment 50569
Does anyone still repair VCRs? I have at least two that need serviced, probably just new rubber parts, cleaned and lubed. Maybe recapped.
 

PhotonWrangler

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Does anyone still repair VCRs? I have at least two that need serviced, probably just new rubber parts, cleaned and lubed. Maybe recapped.
I don't personally know of anyone who repairs VCRs any more (I don't). These days it makes more sense to acquire and store your content in digital format. If you have old, irreplaceable content on VHS, I'd strongly suggest having it digitized before the tape delaminates or warps from age.
 
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