SSC P7 2.4A 16mode Ultrafire C2 mod*56k image heavy

[Sengoku]

Thanks to jirik_cz, StefanFS and NetKidz for their informative threads that made this mod possible!

Fairly tricky mod especially trying to fit the 2 boards in! Ill let the photos do the talking

-CSWOI P7
-16 mode 7135 1A board
-4x7135 1.4 board
-Around 450lumens initially@ 2.4A with AW18760 4.2v

Parts:


driver:


-contact ring


module:




front view:



Beamshot at 3m:

 

[Greg G]

That's very professional work there. :twothumbs

 

[jirik_cz]

Wow, very clean work. Is the SWO tint really so warm? It looks much better than SXP tint.

 

[TexLite]

Great Mod!

Whats the beam like at distance?It looks great in the pics at 3m.

Michael

 

[Sengoku]

Thanks guys, this SWO has a very warm almost yellow tint. All flood beyond 3m or so!

 

[darkzero]

Nice work there. :thumbsup:

My SWOs have a very nice white hotspot but you can see yellow in the corona. Most disagree but personally I prefer the cooler side (not purple) than yellow. SXP was a bit purple to my eyes. I'd like get a hold of some SXO.

 

[KRS1]

very nice piece of work there.

How did you hook 2 driver up?

 

[smopoim86]

Did you have to bore the stop ring in the driver side out in order to fit 2 boards in ( I did on mine). I have put a p7 in one of these as well and am very impressed. It makes a great host. Great flood and thanks to the sheer brightness it seems to out throw most of my q5 lights (all but the aspheric mag).

Have you done any runtime tests? I'm wanting to do another of these like yours with a multi mode driver. I'd like to know how much additional runtime I could expect in low.

Daniel

 

[toby_pra]

WOW this looks very clean. Not often so! Congratulations! :wave:

 

[StefanFS]

That light looks great! I think you're underestimating output from your new monster light. I have done some lightbox measuring and it seems that the difference in output between 2.4A and 3A is ~20% in my samples. You might have over 600 emitter lumen and way over 500 torch lumen, assuming that the emitter is a good performer.
Stefan

 

[easilyled]

Nice to see you're back modding again Ray. :thumbsup:

Excellent work, as usual.

 

[Sengoku]

Thanks daniel, i just had to try out one of these new P7s

KRS1: I followed the steps here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=192677

smopoim86: yes I had to bore out the module and cut down the slave board. The current draws were 220mA Low, 640mA Medium and 2.4A High so you should get some nice runtimes with low and medium!

StefanFS: your right, I just tested it with my lightbox without the tailcap and it measured around 520lumens. It must be the switch any ideas where i can find a 3A switch from?

 

[M.S]

Is the flat piece of aluminium in the first picture for raising the emitter? My C2 has the original cree on board, so P7 will probably sit too low.

 

[Sengoku]

Yes, this was a cree 14mm board but sanded down to make that 1mm difference between the emitter heights. I also used it for isolating the + slug.

 

[StefanFS]

StefanFS: your right, I just tested it with my lightbox without the tailcap and it measured around 520lumens. It must be the switch any ideas where i can find a 3A switch from?

The stock switches in most Ultrafire lights (and other budget lights) are crap. Very high resistance in the C2 switch. The C2 is an underachiever with the stock emitter too, thanks to the switch. Just replacing it with the kind sold as DIY parts at DX & KaiDomain will probably improve things greatly. I know that some peolple have been successful at putting McClickie switches in C2 lights (sold at the Sandwich Shoppe I think). You could put whatever that fits in the C2 tailcap, LumaPower/Tiablo/DBS have quality switches that might fit with a little work (if you have any).
Stefan

 

[Sengoku]

Thanks for the info Stefan, ill try the McClickie switch.

 

[Drewfus2101]

Wow, thats very impressive work. I've got a C2 thats just sitting around that I'm dying to pull apart and mod with a P7.

 

[smopoim86]

Thanks for the info. The one i did is just using KD's double 7135 driver boards. I ordered one last night to build multimode. (i'll sell the single mode one to a friend that was asking about it).

I really thought that my mod looked clean untill i saw yours. Did you have to drill the holes any. Or did you just cut the leads off enough to be able to use the original holes?