Stainless Steel--what's good for flashlights

PhotonFanatic

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Anyone with suggestions as to which type of stainless steel would be good for flashlights. I like shiny, so I'm looking for something that produces a nice finish.

I just bought some 416, but I really don't like the looks of it on the lathe--kind of dull, matte surface. I don't know if it will sand and polish up to a nice shine, but compared to Ti and AL, the surface quality that I'm seeing so far is unimpressive.
 
Steel is a much harder metal. Most if not all metals can be sanded and polished to the point that you get a skiny exterior.
Steel is a bit heavier than aluminum and frankly im not sure if there would be many advantages to steel.

I dont know what steel would be best, but you want something very rust resistant. A 420 steel would do that pretty well and is cheap steel.

It will just take longer to get to a nice shiny finish.
 
Fred...

As you found, 416 is junk. Gummy and tough to get a good finish. It also corrodes quite easily. I used 13-8 on my bezels and it polishes up quite nicely. I only used it because I had a bunch of "bar ends" around. Similar to that would be 17-4. For ease of machining, 303 would be a good choice.

Lots of reading available... I googled "types of stainless steel" and found loads.

Here's a couple links I found informative:

http://www.lenntech.com/Stainless-steel.htm

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2.cfm
 
Fred

i dont know the answer to this question

but im glad your asking it - i think you know why!

Alex
 
Fred...

As you found, 416 is junk. Gummy and tough to get a good finish. It also corrodes quite easily. I used 13-8 on my bezels and it polishes up quite nicely. I only used it because I had a bunch of "bar ends" around. Similar to that would be 17-4. For ease of machining, 303 would be a good choice.

. . .


Thanks for the confirmation that 416 stinks--I thought it was me and my technique. :D

Rothrandir,

Taking your and RPM's advice, so I'll order a some A286 and some 303, and then see which I like.

Good to have some pros on board. :twothumbs:clap:
 
Anyone with suggestions as to which type of stainless steel would be good for flashlights.

I was wondering, what speed, feed and tool bit are you using? I once turned a piece of 303 on my lathe using TiN bits (making a small-diameter pin) and the surface finish was awful. HSS made a better finish but it still took a lot of polishing plus a few minutes on the paper buffing wheel to get the "chrome like" finish I was after.
 
more weight
less heatsinking capability
not anodizable
harder to work on
... steel is junk - for Flashlights
 
HV1T9825sp.jpg


one of these is 6al-4v titanium and the other is 304 stainless steel


Roth, please tell me about A-286
 
i disagree (with yellow)

heavy is good (light weigh can give a feel of inferior quality)
install a good heatsink and for some applications there will be no problem.

people have this aluminum vs steel argument when it comes to bike frames -
steel is real! 100 years proves it

plus stainless steel looks so much nicer

but also i have a funny feeling this is not for a flashlight as such
(well not just yet)

rant over

51 - this weekend im going to have to make a final decision on this (to go ahead or not)
 
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more weight
less heatsinking capability
not anodizable
harder to work on
... steel is junk - for Flashlights

There is no need for thermal transfer in the 'light' that I am making--it uses a Tritium sphere as the light source--heatless.

SS is beautiful, when you have the right kind with the right finish--which is what I'm looking for. And as for being hard to work on, SS can't be any harder to handle than Ti, imo.
 
OK, I'll bite--which is which? Very nice job, as always.

It is hard to to tell them apart even if you are holding them. I forget which is the SS, it is in one of my posts somewhere. The 304 was harder on the tools, both polished up very well but the 304 SS took more polishing time.

Cheers
Dave
 
Thanks for the confirmation that 416 stinks--I thought it was me and my technique. :D

Rothrandir,

Taking your and RPM's advice, so I'll order a some A286 and some 303, and then see which I like.

Good to have some pros on board. :twothumbs:clap:

NO, WAIT!

I was kidding, DO NOT order A286.

I was hoping someone would come along and call out my joke.

At the last shop I worked, they called it Kryptonite. I swore to myself that I'd never again touch the stuff if I didn't have to.

It really does look awesome after machined, but getting it to that state is a nightmare.
On the part I was making, the turning wasn't so bad, but the boring bar (.187 diameter or so) would take a poop every .250" of cutting (and the part was .500 long). Really sucks when you're trying to hold +/-.0002 tolerance and a 32 or better surface finish.
 
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Just got here and was surprised at the sugestion of A286. I recall when I worked for an aerospace fastener mfg. we had some A286 parts and I have seen it referenced in some high strength applications. 17-4 PH is another exotic. These might be magnetic as I recall?!?! :thinking: :shrug:

If the selection is based on corrosion and lack of maintenance, I am surprised 316 wasn't mentioned?!? It may not have the strengths of the typical 18-8 stainless steels (303. 304 etc) but it beats them hands down in corrosive environments. :shrug:

EDIT: 316 will polish up looking like chrome and hold up rather well. It can scratch of course.
 
Just got here and was surprised at the sugestion of A286. I recall when I worked for an aerospace fastener mfg. we had some A286 parts and I have seen it referenced in some high strength applications. 17-4 PH is another exotic. These might be magnetic as I recall?!?! :thinking: :shrug:

If the selection is based on corrosion and lack of maintenance, I am surprised 316 wasn't mentioned?!? It may not have the strengths of the typical 18-8 stainless steels (303. 304 etc) but it beats them hands down in corrosive environments. :shrug:

EDIT: 316 will polish up looking like chrome and hold up rather well. It can scratch of course.

316 is wonderful, they use it for knives and watches.
 
Ugima 316 and 304 could be worth a look as well. They call it free-cutting.
Think there is something added to it so it machines easier.
http://www.uginestainless.com/pro_bar.html


We used alot of the 304 -great stuff -cut like butter and polishes well.
I also used this on the handles when making knives .
Though it was a little soft for that application.

Cheers
Dom
 
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