Surefire 6P and 18650 battery....

[French_Candle]

hello
I a would like to buy a surefire 6P in order to try different P60 drop in modules.
but I am not sure... . Can I use directly a 18650 protected battery inside it? or do I need a modification ?
I have heard about "bored 6P body"...my english is not perfect and I am unable to understand correctly..
thank you

 

[yellow]

it does not fit,
and widening the body to have an 18650 fit, leaves VERY thin material there
(but my 6P modded like this in 2007 still works good)

better to order an 6P 18650 body from fivemega, leafbody, ...


PS: what language do You need? There surely is a member that can explain in Your speech.

 

[French_Candle]

I am french...
Thank you very much for the explanation :wave:

 

[fa__]

Réaléser une 6P pour qu'elle accepte une 18650 rend les parois très fines, a priori ca tient mais on doit être à la limite de l'acceptable.

Par contre tu peux mettre directement une 17670 sans aucune modification, la capacité est un peu inférieure mais reste correcte.

Sinon un intervenant te conseille d'acheter un corps directement étudié pour les 18650, mais je présume que ca ne doit pas être donné

 

[Brasso]

A 17670 will fit just fine. It only has slightly less juice than a 18650 and requires no modification.

 

[fa__]

A 17670 will fit just fine. It only has slightly less juice than a 18650 and requires no modification.

That' what I told him

 

[QtrHorse]

Boring a 6P for a 18650 is not going to make the body weak enough to break. There have been quite a few recent FS threads that are offering bored 6P bodies and I have not read about any of those bodies breaking or bending. I believe one forum member even ran over it with a vehicle to prove a point.

Contact forum member Electronguru. He has a very nice and informative thread that has many different bored P/C series Surefire lights and lots of accessories for them. His FS thread is over on candlepowerforums.com. It is almost always on the first page of the B/S/T section.

 

[yellow]

my measurement shows a remaining sidewall thickness of 0.25-0.3 mm, thats why I always add that "structural integrity" problem.
But also I type that my 6P still works and survives regular rugged use like clamped to bars while MTB trail riding.


as my Streamlight Argo Hp, modded to 18650 by "boring" the body, just died from the opposite part snapping off (too much force when I wanted to get the end cap off), I feel better when telling that problem to ppl that want to have the boring done. Sure the plastic of the Argo is much weaker than SFs Aluminium.


PS: I would BET that it is no problem to grip the bored 6P at the head and break the end part off by simply doing a slight "hammer" motion with hitting the table
and for sure I type now that I think it is absolute BS that a bored 6P survived being run over with a car.
With different body and head diameters even the really rugged 6P (in original state, not bored one) will eventually encounter problems to survice a car, at least more than f.e. a L1D or Jetbeam Jet III Pro ST, or any other light that features a single diameter.
With the 6P all the weight is added at just a few spots and does not spread over the whole light.
Have a link showing pics of that "runover" that someone boosted to have done to his light?
(its BS, because there is a cance the light gets damaged, who does that?)

[edit]
now, while taking measurements at my 6P to check my "remaining sidewall thickness" data from above, I think I do not believe that runover part: even a P6 in fully unmodded state --> the tailcap will be bent, at least pushed enough into the threads, that operating it will be affected
(and I am thinking of european cars, not the monsters You ppl drive
[/edit]

 

[michaelmcgo]

I also reamed mine out to 18.3mm and it has held up just fine. I'm running a 4.2v Malkoff in it and it is fantastic. I have upgraded all of my other lights over the past year, but my modded 6P is still the nicest light I have. I keep it in the drawer next to my bed, I only put lights in there that I absolutely trust. This light is brighter than my Quark 2xAA and Runtime is ridiculous at something like 3 hours.

As far as the strenth issue, remember that it is only thin-walled for a very short distance at the o-ring groove. A cylinder is the strongest geometric shape you can have. If the light is to bend or break in that small area,

a lot of aluminum is going to have to compress and deform in a very small area, I have no doubt that this modded light is still very robust.

 

[QtrHorse]

I could not find the thread about the 6P but how about a bored C2? The side wall is thinner on a C2. Maybe that's only a tire with no car attached to it? Below is the thread with more pictures of the abuse the body received.

Bored Surefire C2 being abused.

my measurement shows a remaining sidewall thickness of 0.25-0.3 mm, thats why I always add that "structural integrity" problem.
But also I type that my 6P still works and survives regular rugged use like clamped to bars while MTB trail riding.


as my Streamlight Argo Hp, modded to 18650 by "boring" the body, just died from the opposite part snapping off (too much force when I wanted to get the end cap off), I feel better when telling that problem to ppl that want to have the boring done. Sure the plastic of the Argo is much weaker than SFs Aluminium.


PS: I would BET that it is no problem to grip the bored 6P at the head and break the end part off by simply doing a slight "hammer" motion with hitting the table
and for sure I type now that I think it is absolute BS that a bored 6P survived being run over with a car.
With different body and head diameters even the really rugged 6P (in original state, not bored one) will eventually encounter problems to survice a car, at least more than f.e. a L1D or Jetbeam Jet III Pro ST, or any other light that features a single diameter.
With the 6P all the weight is added at just a few spots and does not spread over the whole light.
Have a link showing pics of that "runover" that someone boosted to have done to his light?
(its BS, because there is a cance the light gets damaged, who does that?)

[edit]
now, while taking measurements at my 6P to check my "remaining sidewall thickness" data from above, I think I do not believe that runover part: even a P6 in fully unmodded state --> the tailcap will be bent, at least pushed enough into the threads, that operating it will be affected
(and I am thinking of european cars, not the monsters You ppl drive
[/edit]

 

[Sgt. LED]

PS: I would BET that it is no problem to grip the bored 6P at the head and break the end part off by simply doing a slight "hammer" motion with hitting the table
and for sure I type now that I think it is absolute BS that a bored 6P survived being run over with a car.
With different body and head diameters even the really rugged 6P (in original state, not bored one) will eventually encounter problems to survice a car, at least more than f.e. a L1D or Jetbeam Jet III Pro ST, or any other light that features a single diameter.
With the 6P all the weight is added at just a few spots and does not spread over the whole light.
Have a link showing pics of that "runover" that someone boosted to have done to his light?
(its BS, because there is a cance the light gets damaged, who does that?)

I do that and I didn't boast a d*mn thing. That's my car sitting on a bored C2. A bored 6P can take even more than that easily. Oh and hammerfisting a bored 6P into a table and breaking off part of it? Horse sh*t. You'd wreck your table, unless it's granite or steel, and the body of the light still would not break anyway. I did hammerfisting into concrete with the bored 9P and the body was not even inconvienenced. I CAN destroy a bezel doing this or a tailcap but the bored body is fine.
How strong are you? Call me a liar? :shakehead

What did you bet? I am here to collect. Your mouth has more experience than anything else I bet. You reveal how little you know and how much you guess.

 

[Search]

and with that correction I think anything that is to be learned in this thread has been said.

 

[sabre7]

I didn't boast a damn thing. That's my car sitting on a bored C2. A bored 6P can take even more than that easily. Oh and hammerfisting a bored 6P into a table and breaking off part of it? Horse poop. You'd wreck your table, unless it's granite or steel, and the body of the light still would not break anyway. I did hammerfisting into concrete with the bored 9P and the body was not even inconvienenced. I CAN destroy a bezel doing this or a tailcap but the bored body is fine.
How strong are you? Call me a liar? :shakehead

What did you bet? I am here to collect. Your mouth has more experience than anything else I bet. You reveal how little you know and how much you guess.

Now I see why threads about Surefires never last long before being shut down by the mods. :shakehead

 

[Sgt. LED]

Does not matter what brand of light is involved.

When you take your time to do something like product durability testing and someone acts as if it never took place or your results are BS it's an insult. Can you see that?

 

[ampdude]

I agree, buying a Fivemega or Leef body is the best advice. I don't really see any point in boring a Surefire body and only negatives like weakened/compromised body material and slop when using primaries.

Also, some of the cheap aftermarket bodies like Solarforce will take 18650's, depending on the light, but they will generally not be as good quality as Fivemega or Leef's bodies.

 

[QtrHorse]

Ok, a little info concerning three 1x18650 bodies. When I measured the thickness at the threads, that was from the inside wall to the outside of the threads.

Leef 1x18650 body - 58 grams - thickness at tailcap threads 1.81mm - thickness at the knurling 3.41mm

Fivemega 1x18650 body - 55 grams - thickness at tailcap threads 1.7mm - thickness at the knurling 3.44mm

Surefire bored 6P 1x18650 body - 56 grams - thickness at tailcap threads 1.9mm - thickness at the knurling 3.36mm

On my bored bodies, the SF has the thickest wall at the threads and the thinnest at the knurling. The SF body is .09mm thicker than the next thickest of the three at the threads and .08 thinner than the thinnest at the knurling.

Granted everyone bores them differently but I seriously doubt there would be much of a difference in the strenghs of the bodies.

 

[Search]

Now I see why threads about Surefires never last long before being shut down by the mods. :shakehead

It was an attack against a fact. A fact that was made a fact by the person you quoted.

Whether it be flashlight or a rock. Making a false accusation needs to be corrected.

 

[DimeRazorback]

If people can't see that Sgt. LED was legitimately offended, they should re-read the posts... it isn't a war of brands.

 

[sabre7]

If people can't see that Sgt. LED was legitimately offended, they should re-read the posts... it isn't a war of brands.

My comments were directed at an unnecessarily hostile and aggressive tone along with the uncalled for foul language which were quoted unedited in post #13, not about whether or not someone was offended because someone else didn't believe the results of their tests... those kinds of arguments apparently quickly escalate which can cause threads to be closed, and they belong on the grade school playground. Maybe some should heed their own advice and re-read that quote.

 

[berry580]

If I'm not sure about on something, I'd try to water down my tone.

Even if I think I know something, i think its best to avoid arguments here. there's a PM function for a reason.

I could not find the thread about the 6P but how about a bored C2? The side wall is thinner on a C2. Maybe that's only a tire with no car attached to it? Below is the thread with more pictures of the abuse the body received.

Bored Surefire C2 being abused.

the tire must be a very heavy one. haha