Swap a green led in place of r2 in a Quark

[hotlight]

I recently got into green led lights... picked up the Streamlight buckmaster(orange camo), ordered a "custom green led" H501 from Zebralight(should be here in 3 weeks).

I like the SL Buckmaster, but don't like the lack of modes and the clicky.

My question/s may be easy for experienced modders/tinkerers.

How would I go about swapping the R2 in a Quark 123x2 for a green led?
1) do I have to get a certain green LED within certain specs?
2) do I have to change the "driver"?
3) what are some other factors to consider?

I know how to solder, and I think I can handle the "physical"(assembly/dissassembly) aspects of modding the light, but, basically have know clue about the electronics compatability/ possible issues.

as you can tell, I'm new to modding(its only an idea right now, never modded a flashlight). I did try searching(I might not have used the correct terms tho).

I would like to try this myself, but wouldn't mind paying a modder to tackle this if its too "technical" for myself.

I don't mind losing my warranty.
I don't mind the light not being as efficient(run times), not even sure if this will be a factor.

any info./ insight or advice will be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[TheTest]

I'll try and be helpful til one of our resident mod gods chips in

(1) The easiest swap would be to a cree XP-E green emitter.
It is the same size, and shares the same voltage and current-rating specs
as the white XP-E which is already in there.
(2) Because of this ^ The stock driver can be kept. If another led is used this may not be the case.
(3) Opening the flashlight head could be difficult, I believe threadlocker is used,
so it may need persuading with heat and a vise/strap wrenches etc.

It may be worth opening the head up to see whether the LED thats in there already is on a mounting PCB,
which would be useful to know before ordering the replacement LED.
The green cree LEDs look nice and efficient, so it should be bright if you get one in there,
and runtime should be pretty much unchanged.
Good luck

 

[fyrstormer]

Ultimately the driver just outputs electricity at a certain voltage, possibly also forcing a certain amount of amperage as well. As long as the LED you install can handle that voltage and amperage, it will work fine.

It is worth keeping in mind, however, that green and cyan light is only useful when the light is so dim you can't tell what color it is. If you can tell what color the light is, then you're using your cone cells to see, which means your rod cells (which are most sensitive to cyan light) are already being overpowered and you're already losing your night vision. Rod cells tend to be least affected by red light, which is why for brighter single-color lights red is the best choice, because you can have a fair amount of light without overpowering your rod cells and being blind when you shut the light off. Green/cyan is only useful in extremely small quantities, in super-dark environments where even that tiny amount of light is very useful.

On the other hand, if you just like green light, then have fun!

 

[hotlight]

I'll try and be helpful til one of our resident mod gods chips in

(1) The easiest swap would be to a cree XP-E green emitter.
It is the same size, and shares the same voltage and current-rating specs
as the white XP-E which is already in there.
(2) Because of this ^ The stock driver can be kept. If another led is used this may not be the case.
(3) Opening the flashlight head could be difficult, I believe threadlocker is used,
so it may need persuading with heat and a vise/strap wrenches etc.

It may be worth opening the head up to see whether the LED thats in there already is on a mounting PCB,
which would be useful to know before ordering the replacement LED.
The green cree LEDs look nice and efficient, so it should be bright if you get one in there,
and runtime should be pretty much unchanged.
Good luck

thanks, was helpful.
I might call 4sevens and see what they would recommend(before opening head)(also, there is a thread where a Quark head is disassembled-I'll check that to see if LED is already mounted on a PCB)

if #1 is true, that is exactly the type of help I was looking for(still need more help), but knowing which LED is compatible with the stock driver is GREAT.


thanks for knowledge

 

[hotlight]

Ultimately the driver just outputs electricity at a certain voltage, possibly also forcing a certain amount of amperage as well. As long as the LED you install can handle that voltage and amperage, it will work fine.

It is worth keeping in mind, however, that green and cyan light is only useful when the light is so dim you can't tell what color it is. If you can tell what color the light is, then you're using your cone cells to see, which means your rod cells (which are most sensitive to cyan light) are already being overpowered and you're already losing your night vision. Rod cells tend to be least affected by red light, which is why for brighter single-color lights red is the best choice, because you can have a fair amount of light without overpowering your rod cells and being blind when you shut the light off. Green/cyan is only useful in extremely small quantities, in super-dark environments where even that tiny amount of light is very useful.

On the other hand, if you just like green light, then have fun![/QUOTE


next, I need to find out what the stock driver puts outs(voltage and amps)-I'll call 4sevens for that. but if "The Test" is correct, looks like the XP-E is gonna work-I just have to do some research and confirm it.


As far as green vs red:
I do agree that red is better for preserving NV, but, the red messes with my eyes when turned on(I still like red leds tho).(had a SL Sidewinder, also have a Mag w/ red "filter").

Hard to explain, but easiest to say I don't like it as much as green.
Short explanation: I cant see my surroundings as well with red(or they seem too "strange" outdoors on trails/rougher than sidewalk terrain)-but this is my issue

But I do agree that when red light is turned off, my NV recovers faster than when compared to green light.


Also, I think I simply like the green LED.(for some reason)

 

[TheTest]

I just found that thread you mentioned (I think)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=247992
Looks like it's on a 12.5mm round PCB, which should make it pretty easy to unsolder and replace as a whole.
Cutter has green cree LEDs and various PCB sizes that they'll mount for you if you want to go that route.
Reading the thread in the marketplace, that user uplite linked to
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=203245
shows people successfully swapping the emmitters out (for white XP-G's), good pictures as well.
Asking 4sevens would be a good idea at any rate, he should know best after all .

btw i'm playing with my quark RGB, and i see your point with the green.
It gives far better contrast and depth perception than the red, whilst being a lot less harsh on the eyes than the deep blue.
Though they each have there purpose

 

[Nyctophiliac]

Nice to see someone else with a liking for green led's.

I have a few green K2 led's - I'm still trying to decide which of my lights to mod with them. Been a bit busy, so no joy yet, but I'll look forward to your successes in the future.

BTW - some of my green and cyan lights. All I could find quickly.

From the left -
Green Peak Mediterranean
Green Nite-Ize Minimag dropin
Quark RGB
Quark RGB ( I couldn't resist another!
ARC LS First run - Factory Cyan Led
Peak Kilimanjaro Cyan
Inova X1 version 1 - green led
ORB RAW AL - green led
Nuwai Q3 with modded Cyan Lux III
ARC AAA Green/Blue led (ebay auction first run)
Peak McKinley Cyan.


I can recommend the Quark RGB - lovely low low and wall of light high.

 

[TheTest]

Sweeeet i'm very jealous

My first "mod" was an LED swap to a cyan lux (the brightest LEDs at that point, before white LEDs qualified as efficient lol),
that was probably 7-8 years ago.
I've been longing for a mark 1 surefire L1 with a green luxeon, but they are so very rare, one day........
My quark RGB got beasted by HM revenue and customs :scowl:, so i'm being frugal with 4sevens goodness atm,
something i'm sure you can relate to

 

[Nyctophiliac]

I can deffo relate to the customs charges - Did you know that Antony at Flashaholics.co.uk now stocks 4sevens lights?? But I don't think he's got the RGB.

The low green is my fave night illumination - the cat seems to like it too!

More greens please.

 

[TheTest]

Awesome, thanks for the heads up .
I'd visited before, but only briefly, its a great looking site.
Oh no they have zebralights and AW Li-ions :green: my wallet is toast

apologies to OP for sidetracking

 

[ti-force]

I recently got into green led lights... picked up the Streamlight buckmaster(orange camo), ordered a "custom green led" H501 from Zebralight(should be here in 3 weeks).

I like the SL Buckmaster, but don't like the lack of modes and the clicky.

My question/s may be easy for experienced modders/tinkerers.

How would I go about swapping the R2 in a Quark 123x2 for a green led?
1) do I have to get a certain green LED within certain specs?
2) do I have to change the "driver"?
3) what are some other factors to consider?

I know how to solder, and I think I can handle the "physical"(assembly/dissassembly) aspects of modding the light, but, basically have know clue about the electronics compatability/ possible issues.

as you can tell, I'm new to modding(its only an idea right now, never modded a flashlight). I did try searching(I might not have used the correct terms tho).

I would like to try this myself, but wouldn't mind paying a modder to tackle this if its too "technical" for myself.

I don't mind losing my warranty.
I don't mind the light not being as efficient(run times), not even sure if this will be a factor.

any info./ insight or advice will be appreciated.
Thanks

I just looked at the datasheet for the green XP-E emitter and the vf and If are almost identical:

vf = 3.4v-3.9v
If = 1000ma or 1A

But some of the other specs are a little different. There's a difference in the Thermal Resistance, junction to solder point, but I'm not sure what effect this could have.

The Viewing Angle is also 15 degrees wider, so the beam may be different.

Everything else is pretty close so I think you're okay. Maybe JusticCase or someone more knowledgeable than myself will show up and confirm.

I think All you need to do is find a green XP-E on an 12mm MCPCB and you're all set. Click here to see some additional pics of a Quark head disassembled. The MCPCB in my Quark actually measures about 12mm, but there's room for any size ranging from about 10mm to 13mm, but the wire may be a touch too short for a 10mm board, you could fix that though. You could use one that's larger than that, but you might have to do a little filing on it. Also, according to the datasheet, the highest bin available in green is the Q4 bin.

 

[hotlight]

thanks to everybody for their input!

I found a temporary solution to my green light craving:
I purchased a SolarForce drop in(green), and the Solarforce L2R(x2 AA) body. And plan to use my 14500s to run it. Also purchased a green led drop in from DX($8, had to try it out)


nice collection of green lights nyctophiliac- I want an RGB BADLY. too cool not to have one.

ti-force-thank you.
you basically did my homework for me(I haven't verifed any info. but you made it sound right). would've took me a while to figure out what you've posted.

Question/s:
1) Cutter electronics only has a 10mm and 20mm mcpb. File down the 20mm? or go with a 10mm and hope wires are long enough?(if wires aren't long enough, would a big blob of solder be the solution?, splice a couple mm of wire? or all new wire?------Im sure I can figure it out, just wondering what peoples opinion on this would be)

2) Cutters is great, is there a US version? or other options for faster shipping to US.

3) any other stuff I may need?(will I need "thermal paste" for reassembly?
I have picks, needle noses, will have to get a strap wrench if other methods don't work.


thanks, it'll be a "while"(month or so) before I get this swapped out, but will check in and update with results in hopes that someone finds the info helpful

 

[Incan]

Hotlight, Ive got the same buckmaster light.

Out of curiosity, what is it about the green LED that you like? I bought it to use in the woods before daylight during deer season. I actually like the green, though i know its not ideal for preserving night vision.

I understand that Streamlight took advantage of a marketing opportunity since night-vision goggles and scopes have a green tint. At any rate, I love the light, but ironically, I use my Quark AA2 r2 on moonlight mode in place of the buckmaster light now.

My IDEAL use for the buckmaster is for following a blood trail after dark. The green LED makes blood droplets look jet black. Do you see that with the green LED?

long-time reader, first-time poster.

 

[hotlight]

Hotlight, Ive got the same buckmaster light.

Out of curiosity, what is it about the green LED that you like? I bought it to use in the woods before daylight during deer season. I actually like the green, though i know its not ideal for preserving night vision.

I understand that Streamlight took advantage of a marketing opportunity since night-vision goggles and scopes have a green tint. At any rate, I love the light, but ironically, I use my Quark AA2 r2 on moonlight mode in place of the buckmaster light now.

My IDEAL use for the buckmaster is for following a blood trail after dark. The green LED makes blood droplets look jet black. Do you see that with the green LED?

long-time reader, first-time poster.

not exactly sure what I like about it. can see more than with red, green is faster to recover than with white. I think I'm less visible to other people with the green light(from a distance) than a white.

I've used NVGs(thru an ACOG also, COOL) and knew what not to expect when using the green LED, in no way did I think it was the same or did I want to mock the effect of NVGs. I have read that green light is less harsh for someone when they are using NV.

I do notice blood looking extra black(haven't used it for hunting yet).... BBQ'd last week.

also, read that green light doesn't affect the photo periods of plants(due to spectrum). not sure if this is true or not.

it's said that green light doesn't "spook" game, a cat walking by my house definately noticed the green light and did get spooked(took off running).. that may be marketing. maybe less "spooky" than white lights? maybe other animals(deer, etc) cant see the light?

I like reading maps better with green than red... BUT this is where I prefer NW on moon mode(lf2xt, or zl501w)

think thats all the reasoning behind my "need"/want for a green led light.
I got the SL BM because: it was an impulse buy, I was at Bass pro shop. No real reasoning behind it: I didn't have a green led light, liked the orange camo, and wanted a "pen light"

 

[Chauncey Gardner]

Ultimately the driver just outputs electricity at a certain voltage, possibly also forcing a certain amount of amperage as well. As long as the LED you install can handle that voltage and amperage, it will work fine.

It is worth keeping in mind, however, that green and cyan light is only useful when the light is so dim you can't tell what color it is. If you can tell what color the light is, then you're using your cone cells to see, which means your rod cells (which are most sensitive to cyan light) are already being overpowered and you're already losing your night vision. Rod cells tend to be least affected by red light, which is why for brighter single-color lights red is the best choice, because you can have a fair amount of light without overpowering your rod cells and being blind when you shut the light off. Green/cyan is only useful in extremely small quantities, in super-dark environments where even that tiny amount of light is very useful.

On the other hand, if you just like green light, then have fun![/QUOTE


next, I need to find out what the stock driver puts outs(voltage and amps)-I'll call 4sevens for that. but if "The Test" is correct, looks like the XP-E is gonna work-I just have to do some research and confirm it.


As far as green vs red:
I do agree that red is better for preserving NV, but, the red messes with my eyes when turned on(I still like red leds tho).(had a SL Sidewinder, also have a Mag w/ red "filter").

Hard to explain, but easiest to say I don't like it as much as green.
Short explanation: I cant see my surroundings as well with red(or they seem too "strange" outdoors on trails/rougher than sidewalk terrain)-but this is my issue

But I do agree that when red light is turned off, my NV recovers faster than when compared to green light.


Also, I think I simply like the green LED.(for some reason)

I want to put together a versatile p60 host also & am on the fence between a red or green drop in.

Right now I'm leaning towards red, but have not seen a decent green led yet for comparison purposes.

I really love the red for under 20yrs outside (say around camp & in a tent) & much prefer it to white at night in the house (particularly reading).