The Intelligent Kroll

[koala]

Right,
I am back after lots of code cleaning and polishing. Currently the code is 232words. The intel hex file is 1335bytes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It's now ready to be put to action but there are some mechanical problem I need to fix. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif The flex cable that carries the positive from the battery to the microchip is weak and breaks too often when assembling the tail. This is cause by twisting of the battery and the flex cable simply wraps around the battery and then break. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rant.gif

One approach is to make a thin can that will cover the battery and bring positive to the microprocessor but still require some 'play' when assembling the tail.

I can think of no other reliable way to solve this problem.
Anyone can think of an easy solution?

Vince.

 

[LED_ASAP]

Wow, it almost look like an alien laser jet of some kind /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Nice work!

 

[McGizmo]

Nukiez,

A positive path from front to rear is not a trivial feat! It is especially dificult to accomplish as a retrofit! If I had your technology, I would make a union module that had male/ female threads for the E series light format. This module would screw in between the head and powerpak. It would have a side switch or rotating collar switch. Dumb power packs already exist (TW has some) and are easy to make. Dumb heads are also easy to come by; so are dummies. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

- Don

 

[koala]

The union module & dummies idea is good but regard me as an idiot at the moment, how does it reduce the twisting of the battery when assembling?

I don't have a L1 or A2, if L1 is digital light, how do they manage to carry positive and negative together and come out with such a robust light? Anyone wish to peek inside and englighten me?


Vince.

 

[McGizmo]

Nukiez,

SF doesn't take + back to the switch. They use to ground paths completed with the switch; one with no resistance and the other with resistance.

My point to the union module was that you would then get ground from the tube and + from the battery anode contact. You would not need a second conductor passing the batteries.

- Don

 

[koala]

I think I still have to act like an idiot. I am using the tube as a ground path to the dc/dc converter. The microprocessor switches the ground on and off like how a normal kroll work.

A picture will worth a thousand words.. :| /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Vince.

 

[Klaus]

BTTT - how come I missed this one ?

Klaus

 

[koala]

You didn't miss it, the next few parts are coming soon. It ain't easy for me. One lil stuff taking helluva time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif I do take a break sometimes and do some other easier mod /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif For eg. coloring my KL1 lens with my girl's nail polish so i get multi color light /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Then again maybe I spent too much time lurking around cpf...

Vince.

 

[milkyspit]

koala, I'm still interested in this mod. Any chance you'll get to a point where you might make some for others? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

 

[this_is_nascar]

I'm in for several.

 

[koala]

Milky - I don't see why not. This is the ultimate upgrade for any light that fits a kroll. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Nascar - you gotta wait till it's up for BST /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Atmel has a new microproc. ATTiny13 with more features. I am waiting for the release. This micro works at low voltages and has all the features other big brothers has.

I edc ArcLSH+Q3J+ikroll daily and only manage run pass two CR123A over the two months. Which is good because I can use dimming as I don't always need a bright light.

Over the two months I have changed the design and features. I realise that more functionality/features = more annoyance. Which means with 1 control button, user has to cycle through several steps/modes before reaching the desired mode. I am now using the below modes

1) <font color="blue"> Tatical mode (Max on time: 3 seconds)</font>
- Switch On when press on
- Switch Off when let go
- Full brightness
2) <font color="blue"> Constant on mode </font>
- Mode Activate when press on for > 3seconds from tatical mode
- Switch Off when press on for > 2seconds
- Full brightness
3) <font color="blue"> Dimming mode </font>
- Mode Activate when 1 short press on from constant mode
- Switch Off when press on for > 2seconds
- Lowest brightness first OR previous brightness setting
- Cycle through 5 level brightnesss(ascending) 1 short press
4) <font color="blue"> Find Me mode </font>
- Mode Activate press till blink from dimming mode ~5seconds
- Switch Off when press on for > 2seconds
- 3% brightness (minimum power consumption) blink every 3seconds
- Most people will not need this, therefore it's a sort of hidden feature from dimming mode

To get around the modes... Say we want to go to <font color="blue">dimming mode</font>, we press for 3seconds bypassing <font color="blue">tactical mode</font>, entering <font color="blue">constant on mode</font> then give a short press, now we are in <font color="blue">dimming mode</font>. To increase brighness level, simple a short press. 2 seconds press will switch off the light and put the microprocessor in to sleep mode, thus reducing power consumption. It isn't too hard to learn for my mom /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

On tactical mode, I don't know morse code or other signaling language. But I know max 3seconds is not quite suitable for sending signal. Tactical mode can go in to permanant by swapping place with Find Me. Then the sequences of the mode navigation will have to be changed. Which means more work for me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif but I'll make it great /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Assembly is not quite like other programming languages.. :sighs: /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif


Initially there was another option, which is <font color="blue"> Constant On for 10 seconds </font> but I think it's useless for me. The original brightness levels were 10. It is reduced to 5, it's faster to 'press' to min and max.
However, if I am able to mass produce, I am willing to load up the full options if requested. I do keep all my old codes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

[kingkong]

any update on this??

 

[koala]

Here

There won't be anymore updates as I am working on a entirely new module based on the ARC4+ design. The uP will be relocated to the head of the light because it seems that having the electronics at the tailend is pretty useless without a heavy mod on the body to route the anode connection.

This also proof that HDS design is effective despite the switch flaw.

Vince.

 

[cy]

koala, great original work!!!

next in line to test..

 

[koala]

Thanks cy - I know you are the ARC4+ tailcap *perfectionist* /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif so I hope you and many others can help evaluate this new design.. it's only an idea haven't been tested yet..

My module switching mechanism works like this:

Two identical kroll main springs with the same compression rate holds the battery on the positive and negative side.

like this, enjoy my leet NonCAD drawing skill

The kroll is a modified kroll with a shaft in the middle which pushes the battery forward when thumb pressed. This will effectively compress Spring A and then activates switch.

Spring A floats the battery so the switch does not get activated when the tail assembled. Of course the switch gets activated when overtighten. Even worst, the kroll shaft will poke through the rubber boot!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif Need some sort of mechanism to prevent that from happening.

I stole /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif this design from KL3.

Vince.

 

[flashlight]

[ QUOTE ]
koala said:
......

... Even worst, the kroll shaft will poke through the rubber boot!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif Need some sort of mechanism to prevent that from happening.

I stole /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif this design from KL3.

Vince.

[/ QUOTE ]

Even 'worster' the shaft might pierce the battery! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/str.gif Maybe putting a curved plastic cap like the end of a Bic pen, over the shaft end might help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Erm, if you 'stole' the design, you might get sued you know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

 

[kingkong]

koala,
I just build the programmer using this...
http://www.avr-asm-tutorial.net/avr_en/beginner/index.html
Can you send me schimatic of the ikroll?
Thanks,
cvn

 

[chimo]

Nice bit of work you have done so far. Just a comment on the double spring proposal. The inertia of the battery may overcome the spring tension if the flashlight is "jarred". This may cause inadvertant tripping of the switch. Cheers..

Chimo

 

[koala]

The drawing is illustration it's not the exact same model so don't take it seriously.

Regarding the "jarring", that would certainly happen to springs with lower compression rate. I haven't test this with kroll springs yet.

 

[gadget_lover]

May I suggest that a better solution would be to simply mill a groove into the case and run the V+ to a slip-ring for a second contact on the tailcap? This seems much easier than the plunger and balanced springs and embedded microswitch.

Daniel