AndyF
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hound dogs are on sale, 15% off. 9 left of the cool tint version.
The Official Malkoff Junkie thread - Part 2
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5001craig
Newly Enlightened
Well as a Malkoff Junkie, I wanted to post my experience today.
I had to enter a decent-sized Hurst wood burning boiler today for inspection of the refractory lining (was still fairly warm). Snuck all 264 pounds of me through the access hole and absolutely lit-up the inside with my new Wildcat. I love the beam this light puts out. It's bright for sure (has throw) but it lights-up everything. The boiler I was in is approximately 8' w x 12' l and with the light on, everything was lit.
I have a new favorite go-to bright light.
I had to enter a decent-sized Hurst wood burning boiler today for inspection of the refractory lining (was still fairly warm). Snuck all 264 pounds of me through the access hole and absolutely lit-up the inside with my new Wildcat. I love the beam this light puts out. It's bright for sure (has throw) but it lights-up everything. The boiler I was in is approximately 8' w x 12' l and with the light on, everything was lit.
I have a new favorite go-to bright light.
PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
2-4 lumen to be exact!
I'm not even picky regarding the lumen output on low. All I want is low, medium, and high when run off an RCR123.
This will be my first (unless my HDS arrives) light with more than low and high. I'm ignoring the Sunwayman V20c I gave away.
This will be my first (unless my HDS arrives) light with more than low and high. I'm ignoring the Sunwayman V20c I gave away.
I realize that this has been done to death when Gene announced the MDC, but as long as everybody seems to be giving a wish-list, I'd take almost any L/M/H MDC.
Preferences would be that the brightness levels remained functional on 14500 or on RCR123.
For levels, I'd prefer a low of <10 lumens, a medium of about 30-40 lumens, and then high. So, basically, just dump the strobe/signal, add the low level, and make it L/M/H, and it's what I'd want.
I like L/M/H because it allows the user to increase the lighting intensity as needed, without cycling thru the max output level, which will save battery life and less devastating to the eyes when turned on in pitch-darkness.
I really like all the other aspects of the light, so I wouldn't ask for any physical changes. It's very nice, and the electronics could just use some refinements, and it would be perfect.
Preferences would be that the brightness levels remained functional on 14500 or on RCR123.
For levels, I'd prefer a low of <10 lumens, a medium of about 30-40 lumens, and then high. So, basically, just dump the strobe/signal, add the low level, and make it L/M/H, and it's what I'd want.
I like L/M/H because it allows the user to increase the lighting intensity as needed, without cycling thru the max output level, which will save battery life and less devastating to the eyes when turned on in pitch-darkness.
I really like all the other aspects of the light, so I wouldn't ask for any physical changes. It's very nice, and the electronics could just use some refinements, and it would be perfect.
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BenChiew
Flashlight Enthusiast
I am sure the MDC will evolve when the time is right, just like most other things.
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
will a neutral HD's lux be significantly less than the cool white's lux due to the color temp? I see the lumens output isn't too different at all, but should their lux numbers be roughly the same? or does color temp not affect lux?
BenChiew
Flashlight Enthusiast
Good question. I like to know that too.
Perhaps another consideration is how the human mind tells us things. A cooler white beam registers as brighter to our brain. Objects appear to "shine back" and to a certain extent more reflective thus giving an impression that the light is brighter. No?
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Very true I believe,
I just figured since the Neutrals are "Limited" I would jump at it,
I have a V3 Wildcat and it's a beautiful almost pure white looking beam, for what I need it serves me very very well,
If the HD doesn't seem so I'll buy the other and sell the "Neutral" But I do have an M31NL and absolutely love it...
It reminds me so much of an incan,
I just figured since the Neutrals are "Limited" I would jump at it,
I have a V3 Wildcat and it's a beautiful almost pure white looking beam, for what I need it serves me very very well,
If the HD doesn't seem so I'll buy the other and sell the "Neutral" But I do have an M31NL and absolutely love it...
It reminds me so much of an incan,
greatscoot
Flashlight Enthusiast
I realize that this has been done to death when Gene announced the MDC, but as long as everybody seems to be giving a wish-list, I'd take almost any L/M/H MDC.
Preferences would be that the brightness levels remained functional on 14500 or on RCR123.
For levels, I'd prefer a low of <10 lumens, a medium of about 30-40 lumens, and then high. So, basically, just dump the strobe/signal, add the low level, and make it L/M/H, and it's what I'd want.
I like L/M/H because it allows the user to increase the lighting intensity as needed, without cycling thru the max output level, which will save battery life and less devastating to the eyes when turned on in pitch-darkness.
I really like all the other aspects of the light, so I wouldn't ask for any physical changes. It's very nice, and the electronics could just use some refinements, and it would be perfect.
I have had Flucero28 do a couple of Mods with "Hybrid Memory". Keeps last level but resets back to low when off for a while on the next level change. I like this as I know I don't necessarily cycle through all the modes to get back to low.
greatscoot
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have an XML HD (about 750l on high) and I'm really happy with it. If I were to get a neutral I would probably get a WC onlly because I have a HD and also knowing I can run the WC on a single 18650 if needed. Tested the HD on 2 primaries earlier, it does work, but at a lower level.
Add long as we are taking about modes and memory why not have a three group user selectable option,
Group one, low/high
Group two, high/low
Group three, low/med/high
Group four, high only
Put a strobe in there if you like, I'm sure the cost would be reflected but if we can select it id'e be down!
I guess I just loved my old Streamlight Protac HL a lot lol...,
Group one, low/high
Group two, high/low
Group three, low/med/high
Group four, high only
Put a strobe in there if you like, I'm sure the cost would be reflected but if we can select it id'e be down!
I guess I just loved my old Streamlight Protac HL a lot lol...,
PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
Here's a nice "Hurricane" Malkoff light I pieced together.
A Fivemega 2XAA natural body with a Ronac Rollo natural bezel, with a frosted UCL and delrin bezel ring from Oveready. A (1 of 20) M31LL 219 is housed in this light for a long useable runtime.
The frosted UCL is great with this drop in. A clean beam that is ideal for power outages.
Also with this body, the rubber boot pops out easy for tail standing.
Pics:
A Fivemega 2XAA natural body with a Ronac Rollo natural bezel, with a frosted UCL and delrin bezel ring from Oveready. A (1 of 20) M31LL 219 is housed in this light for a long useable runtime.
The frosted UCL is great with this drop in. A clean beam that is ideal for power outages.
Also with this body, the rubber boot pops out easy for tail standing.
Pics:
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