The Tint Snob Thread

[noboneshotdog]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

^^^
Maratac looks nice. Love that rosy tint!

 

[jon_slider]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

rosy tint!

me too
disclaimer, rosyness varies,
here is an approximate example of where the Lad and Maratac might approximately test out to, if maukka had an actual sample. this is just my guess labels, added to his real science work, but it demonstrates how a 219b lands below the BBL, in the pink, and the 219c lands above the BBL, in the yellow. BBL = neutral tint at that color temperature.. CRI is a separate topic, but it happens all the LEDs are the cream of the new crop in Nichia high CRI offerings.. Note the Maratac is actually 4000k, like the Lad, but still slightly in the pink below the BBL....imho

 

[noboneshotdog]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Thanks Jon. Is there a headlamp WITH magnetic tailcap with similar color temp as the Maratac?

I currently have the Armytek Wizard, warm xpl which has a bit of a rosy hue that I am enjoying.

Edit: preferably 18650.

 

[khaleeq]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

I first purchased Lumintop copper worm in nichia. Then I bought Tool AAA aluminum CRI, believing it would have the same pleasant tint as the worm, but was rather disappointed. I feel there is less yellow in it. When compared side by side, the aluminum one looks slightly greenish, or maybe I am seeing things.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

I first purchased Lumintop copper worm in nichia. Then I bought Tool AAA aluminum CRI, believing it would have the same pleasant tint as the worm, but was rather disappointed. I feel there is less yellow in it. When compared side by side, the aluminum one looks slightly greenish, or maybe I am seeing things.

does your Aluminum Tool look like the 4500k N219, or the 6000k XP-G2 in this pic? (lights are off, this is just the reflection of the LED)

 

[khaleeq]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

It is the newer nichia 219b version bought from banggood. It is like the one in the center

does your Aluminum Tool look like the 4500k N219, or the 6000k XP-G2 in this pic? (lights are off, this is just the reflection of the LED)

 

[jon_slider]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

It is the newer nichia 219b version bought from banggood. It is like the one in the center

LED tint does change with different batches and each LED can be slightly different even from the same batch.
so, sounds like you like the Worm LED better than the Tool LED..
I invite you to post a side by side photo if you want. It does sound like you qualify for membership in the Tint Snob Club, welcome!
Comparing LEDs side by side can be enlightening, or disappointing, depending on our expectations, and the time of day when we use our lights (because our brain changes white balance).

 

[Nichia!]

I like nichia 219b tint from 4000k~4500k..

 

[Nichia!]

Couple of days ago I noticed something strange on one of my Astrolux A01
I have more than 10 of them some are New banggood version with PWM and the rest are the original Manker driver No PWM, one of Manker lights are different from all the rest, it has very beautiful tint (pinkish)! The rest of Manker lights are very yellow (don't like)
The banggood ones is cooler than all the rest

Not sure what the Cause of that but I am very happy with the special one I wish all the other ones are the same as this one..

I found my self like the tint on my d25c 2016 model nichia 219b 4500k (egaletac claims) more than others and like tint on the tool also..

 

[Nichia!]

Another thing to mention here

I bought 2 aluminum tools from Amazon with nichia LEDs months ago, I have noticed that they are Warmer than the tool copper/ti and more pink than the Traditional copper/ti ones

 

[jon_slider]

Here is an example of 3 different N219b
L to R: Reylight head 4500k N219b 200bin, L11c 4500k N219b 220bin, Worm head 4500k N219b 200bin

fwiw, the Worm and ReyLight Tool used 4500K LEDs at the time. Some tested at about 4300k actual (normal variation of 5%). Later versions of the Copper Tool, and the current Maratac w Nichia, are using a 4000k N219b, it is slightly yellower, less pink.

in this pic the 4000k 200bin N219b Maratac is second from left, and the worm 4500k 200bin N219b is second from right
notice the Maratac is slightly yellower

far left is 4500k N219b 200bin, far right is L11c w N219b 220bin
you can see the 220bin N219b is greener than the 200bin N219b examples
these are the lights in the above photo:

here is a better example of the difference between the far left and far right N219b lights

one more to emphasize the pink vs green difference between two 4500k N219b Nichias.

don't worry too much about white wall comparisons. If you only use one light at a time, your brain will quickly adapt to make it seem white.

yeah, I like to have my cake and eat it too, when possible.. and for me, Pink is Nirvana..
otoh, if Im camping and only have the 220bin Nichia, I will still use and enjoy its High CRI, generally more than a low CRI Cool White LED..

Try to be an open minded, flexible, Tint Snob, if you can.. LOL

 

[Modernflame]

Try to be an open minded, flexible, Tint Snob, if you can.. LOL

Oooooo, copper. Sorry, easily distracted.

And yes, that's good advice on open mindedness. I'm learning, but it's a work in progress. It's a struggle not to yell and point exasperatedly at the television every time I see a TV cop inspecting a crime scene with a low cri, blue shifted, cool white LED flashlight. Still working on torchaholic outbursts.

 

[khaleeq]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Dear jon_slider, thanks for your kind words. If only I knew how to put a photo here. I think I need to revisit the new member Instructions section. I have so far posted around 25 times only on the forum, so maybe it has something to do with my not being able to place a photo here. I have always liked some areas of your interest, like love for no-pwm lights, love for neutral or warmer tints, lights with flat regulation.

LED tint does change with different batches and each LED can be slightly different even from the same batch.
so, sounds like you like the Worm LED better than the Tool LED..
I invite you to post a side by side photo if you want. It does sound like you qualify for membership in the Tint Snob Club, welcome!
Comparing LEDs side by side can be enlightening, or disappointing, depending on our expectations, and the time of day when we use our lights (because our brain changes white balance).

 

[jon_slider]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Oooooo, copper. Sorry, easily distracted.
..
Still working on torchaholic outbursts.

me too, me too

If only I knew how to put a photo here..

1. put the photo on Flickr.com or wherever you keep photos online
2. copy the image address:

3. In this forum, use the icon above the red star to open the dialog box into which you paste the image address you copied from your photo site.

I am becoming a more flexible tint snob. I really like the N219c in this pic. The XPL is considerably more yellow, not my preference, but I use it anyway . I also REALLY like the pink Nichias, but, I don't use them at a time of day when they look pink. I hate the 6000k indoors at night, but it is superior during the day, when my brain is used to sunlight.

 

[markr6]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

This isn't a response to anything there, but I figured it would be the perfect place instead of making a new thread. Just a thought...

The old "white wall" test and people making excuses for bad beams or tints…not valid!

I get it…we ALL use our lights in real life. Although some may think so after visiting CPF, we don't all sit around and shoot white walls 100% of the time. Some do a lot more than others, but it's a simple way to analyze a light. I think that's only prudent after spending $50, $100 or $500 on something that others would get by with just fine at $8.

- Do people in [insert any nice car] forums drop $50,000 on a car, and then say "I don't notice it in real life" if the car makes a loud whistling or clicking sound outside (say, a loose panel). No. They'll have a 32 page thread over-analyzing every aspect of the most seemingly insignificant, superficial things. And they should.

- Do photography enthusiasts spend $4000 on a camera and $1500 on a lens and say "I don't notice the distortion. I don't shoot brick walls all day long". No, they actually do the same thing we do.

- Why use USB 3.0 when USB 2.0 works just fine? I can just go make a cup of coffee and do something else while I transfer files at half the speed. Doesn't work like that.

When you pay for performance, you want to make sure you're getting what you paid for…and more. If an amazing tint exists in one light, but not in a similar spec'd light, it just bothers me since I know it IS possible. To buy a flashlight with a "pretty good" or so-so tint, even if its fine outdoors, isn't something I'll defend.

 

[iamlucky13]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

I agree Mark. White wall hunting is a basic check that lets you see the light in a semi-controlled environment. It can provide a useful understanding of the nature of a light's output, which depending on how you use it, could help you understand what you're seeing in a non-white wall situation. If you're checking on your child at night, for example, and it strikes you that their skin looks a bit green, knowing if your light has a green hue to it may allay the concern the child might be ill.

I will conditionally make excuses for lights not being perfect, however. I don't generally expect my $20-30 lights to be free from beam artifacts and tint shifts. Higher price lights also often aren't if they're making compromises to maximize output, keep a high end body material like copper or titanium reasonably priced, etc.

It's always a process of weighing what's important to you versus what is actually on the market.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

mark6, your mailbox is full, I tried to PM you.. PM me when you are ready and I will send the message

 

[kaichu dento]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

White wall hunting is a basic check that lets you see the light in a semi-controlled environment. It can provide a useful understanding of the nature of a light's output, which depending on how you use it, could help you understand what you're seeing in a non-white wall situation. If you're checking on your child at night, for example, and it strikes you that their skin looks a bit green, knowing if your light has a green hue to it may allay the concern the child might be ill.

Nice post from one who actually understands the nature of the concept.

It's really become an old guys tale to actually think that there are people that do nothing other than stare at white walls with their flashlights.

 

[Modernflame]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

I agree Mark. White wall hunting is a basic check that lets you see the light in a semi-controlled environment. It can provide a useful understanding of the nature of a light's output, which depending on how you use it, could help you understand what you're seeing in a non-white wall situation. If you're checking on your child at night, for example, and it strikes you that their skin looks a bit green, knowing if your light has a green hue to it may allay the concern the child might be ill.

I will conditionally make excuses for lights not being perfect, however. I don't generally expect my $20-30 lights to be free from beam artifacts and tint shifts. Higher price lights also often aren't if they're making compromises to maximize output, keep a high end body material like copper or titanium reasonably priced, etc.

It's always a process of weighing what's important to you versus what is actually on the market.

Agreed. Well put. I've long since given up trying to explain the concept to non-torchoholics. I would only add that outdoor testing is equally important. It's the reason why we scour the forum for a variety of beam shots before purchasing a light.

 

[snowlover91]

Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

This isn't a response to anything there, but I figured it would be the perfect place instead of making a new thread. Just a thought...

The old "white wall" test and people making excuses for bad beams or tints…not valid!

When you pay for performance, you want to make sure you're getting what you paid for…and more. If an amazing tint exists in one light, but not in a similar spec'd light, it just bothers me since I know it IS possible. To buy a flashlight with a "pretty good" or so-so tint, even if its fine outdoors, isn't something I'll defend.

I would have to disagree a little bit with the "white wall" test aides mentioned. It's a great way to get a general idea of tint, but it can also be quite deceptive or misleading too. A person's eyes, perception and sensitivity to different colors/tints, the ambient light in the room, the shade of "white" on the wall, etc are all variables to consider. A warmer light may tend to cast a more yellow/golden tint that might be pleasing to some while offputting to others. I personally find 4000k preferable to 5000k now, as that seems too "cool" for me. Some might find 4000k too "warm" or yellow for them and prefer the 4500-5000k range. A light that performs great on a white wall test may also perform worse outdoors on green and brown colors. I have experienced this first hand in using my better "white wall" lights vs my warmer ones. My warmest one is a 4000k ZL with 93-95cri and it does better outdoors with wood grain and green grass/leaves than my Nichia does. The Nichia is a better white wall light, but my real world use is primarily outdoors and that's where I want the best performance.

There are so many factors involved that, imo, the white wall test is just one method of determining what works best for someone. For me, the best test is using it outdoors and seeing which lights render colors the best. A white wall test is useless when out in the woods... and other factors like runtime, how well trail markers are discerned, etc are far more important.