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Ti PD-S or Lunasol 20 vs Novatac 120p?

brighterisbetter

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This post has a chart with lux measurements of various McGizmo lights,

Steve
You beat me to it Steve, I was about to post that same link.

A bit OT, but I'm curious as to the practicality of using my PD-S mizer on low in candle mode. At 20mA draw, wouldn't a standard SF123 power it for almost a day and a half continuously? This wouldn't be my ideal candle-type light as I've got others more suited to the task; but could be used in this matter right, with adequate heatsinking and all that good stuff?
 

Steve L

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You beat me to it Steve, I was about to post that same link.

A bit OT, but I'm curious as to the practicality of using my PD-S mizer on low in candle mode. At 20mA draw, wouldn't a standard SF123 power it for almost a day and a half continuously? This wouldn't be my ideal candle-type light as I've got others more suited to the task; but could be used in this matter right, with adequate heatsinking and all that good stuff?
Hi Bruce,:wave:

I remembered the chart from one of your previous posts in the Ti PD-S mizer or not thread.:grin2: If a Surefire has 1200mah capacity. A 20ma draw would give you 60 hours or 2.5 days of continuous light.:)

Steve
 

brucec

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I see the PD-S is driving an SSC at 525ma on high. That should be about the same as the Novatac 120p, right? In the LS20, the GD+ is only being driven at 400ma. Is that because of stability issues with driving the GD+ turning blue? I think I saw some beamshots of the LS20 significantly lower in output compared to the PD-S.
 

McGizmo

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The GoldenDragon is being driven at ~ 400 mA because you also have the ring of Nichias being driven by the BBM converter concurrently. I wanted the total load on the battery to be within reasonable bounds of both the battery and Ti host.
 

js

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Wow, one international flight and so much great advice! I really like the concept of the LS20, but not at the expense of higher output. Yes, 80lumens vs 120lumens probably does not make that much of a difference in actual usage, but this is a titanium light after all. I doubt if I really need titanium vs aluminum.

So, I think I will try to pick up a PD-S somewhere. I think the PD-S is up to par on output, right? Thanks.

PoliceScannerMan,
I grew up in Gainesville, so Go Gators!

The Ti-PD-S is indeed about 115 lumens vs. the 77 lumens of the LS20. In a side by side test, it is noticeably brighter, but not by much. Enough so you easily notice the difference, but not enough that you think it's a big difference. In actual use, as you surmise, the difference is small. If I grab one of my Ti lights, not knowing whether it is the LS20 or the Ti-PD-S, and just start using it on high, it wouldn't make much difference which one I grabbed. The LS20 high beam is 90 to 95 percent as good as the Ti-PD-S high beam, despite what the lumens numbers might suggest. Keep in mind that to really see a marked difference in output, you need to double the lumens, so a 50 percent increase isn't a huge deal.

However . . . there's no doubt that many people still would go for the Ti-PD-S over the LS20, because they do care about that extra brightness, and don't really care about the extra runtime. Furthermore, if you are very picky about the tint of your LED lights, and the quality of your beam, and if you don't care too much about the utility of a floody low beam, then the Ti-PD-S will please you more. The SSC emitter in my Ti-PD-S is the best one I own in terms of how pleasing the tint is. (The SunDrop will kick the SSC's butt all up and down the driveway when it comes to tint, but it doesn't throw at all, and the output isn't as high as the Ti-PD-S.)

Also, it seems to be a good time to buy used Ti lights on B/S/T right now, as a lot of people are selling, and the market is a bit tapped out due to the Spy sale, and the current LS20 wave.

All of this said, however, I have to reiterate that the LS20 is a significant step up in an EDC light, over the PD-S. If you haven't experienced the low-flood, high-throw combination in an instant access KISS UI like the PD (or SF A2), then you simply don't know what you are missing. It will revolutionize your whole EDC flashlight experience. If it were me, I'd go for the LS20. But it's not me . . . it's you, and you will make your own decision based on your priorities. And, as I said, if perfection of tint and beam and high output are your priorities, then the Ti-PD-S (non-mizer) is the clear choice. Just keep in mind that you give up a lot in the low-beam department when you go that route.
 

Kiessling

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There is one thing you must know though ... if brutal brightness is your number one priority, none of Don's current ligths is for you.
They have a different mission, and maximum brightness is not the goal. Being a useful tool is, and runtime plays a key role here.

bernie
 

js

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There is one thing you must know though ... if brutal brightness is your number one priority, none of Don's current ligths is for you.
They have a different mission, and maximum brightness is not the goal. Being a useful tool is, and runtime plays a key role here.

bernie

And thank goodness for that!
 

:)>

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I have to say that I agree with JS and Bernie; and thats all I have to say about that.
 

brucec

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I've spent too much time contemplating the PD-S vs Lunasol that I now realize there really is only one solution to the madness. Thanks to everyone for your advice. OK, now that that's settled, what's this I hear about some kind of James Bond flashlight...?
 

yaesumofo

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I've spent too much time contemplating the PD-S vs Lunasol that I now realize there really is only one solution to the madness. Thanks to everyone for your advice. OK, now that that's settled, what's this I hear about some kind of James Bond flashlight...?

I noticed that you sent an e-mail to don for one of these Lunasol 20's.
Good choice.
As you may know this light really is designed to be a tool. It is there to be used. To own one of these and not use it is silly.
So USE IT IN GOOD HEALTH and be ready to have it for a long long time. Hell the flashlight could well outlast your budding obsession with flashlights.
Yaesumofo
 

brucec

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Yep, I'll be looking for a PD-S too. I definitely plan on using them, but living in my briefcase is pretty light duty I guess. The heaviest use my lights normally see is camping or outdoor photography. Actually, off the subject, my favorite headlamp is the Petzl Tikka XP. No regulation, but instantly adjustable flood/spot and boost.
 

Crash

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Hey Bruce,

Yes indeed, you're hooked! Here's how it goes: "Hi. My name is Bruce and I'm a flashaholic ..."

Pretty soon you'll be posting multiple pictures of all your lights because you can't fit them all into one photo.

I hope you enjoy being broke. Just remember if anyone asks how much they cost, move the decimal point one place to the left before you respond.

Best regards,
Bill S.
 

Hodsta

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Lol - Welcome Bruce, you only have two more to collect the set!
 

precisionworks

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I think the PD-S is higher output, but is it still short of the Novatac?/QUOTE]

My integrating sphere (which gives fairly accurate lumen measurements, at least on a relative basis) shows the following:

McGizmo PD-S = 4.5 / 116 lumens

Novatac 120P = .23/11/99 lumens

McGizmo LunaSol 20 = 9/73 lumens

A simple side-by-side ceiling bounce also shows the PD-S to be visibly brighter than the 120P. Add to that the super simple UI & the bulletproof titanium construction. I've owned all three & carried all three for months at a time, and finally settled on the PD-S. But you'll find that just as many users prefer the LS20.

The 120P is a well made & well thought out light. If the McGizmo bug hadn't bitten, I'd still have the 120P in my pocket, and I'd be happy with it. But I caught the McGizmo bug, for which there is no cure:twothumbs
 

jeffb

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Have owned and used several PD-S and presently have an LS-20.....
The beam and tint on the PD's were superb and the light is an excellent tool that worked well in many different situations.

The LS20, however, with time has really grown on me, as I find it more useful with the flood low beam; so much so, that I sold the Ti and Alum, PD-S.

I can't speak to the Novatac, however had several HDS (precursor) and I prefer the simplicity of the UI's of the McGizmo lights.

jeffb
 
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brucec

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I think the PD-S is higher output, but is it still short of the Novatac?/QUOTE]

My integrating sphere (which gives fairly accurate lumen measurements, at least on a relative basis) shows the following:

McGizmo PD-S = 4.5 / 116 lumens

Novatac 120P = .23/11/99 lumens

McGizmo LunaSol 20 = 9/73 lumens

A simple side-by-side ceiling bounce also shows the PD-S to be visibly brighter than the 120P. Add to that the super simple UI & the bulletproof titanium construction. I've owned all three & carried all three for months at a time, and finally settled on the PD-S. But you'll find that just as many users prefer the LS20.

The 120P is a well made & well thought out light. If the McGizmo bug hadn't bitten, I'd still have the 120P in my pocket, and I'd be happy with it. But I caught the McGizmo bug, for which there is no cure:twothumbs

Thanks for the data, I knew I had seen it somewhere before. Just couldn't find it on the search function. So, there is about 1/2 of an f-stop between the PD-S and LS20 with the Novatac right in between.

The PD-S and Novatac are using the same SSC P4 emitter, right? Does the PD-S have temperature protection? I'm actually not so crazy about the automatic thermal step-down in the Novatac.
 

brucec

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Hey Bruce,

Yes indeed, you're hooked! Here's how it goes: "Hi. My name is Bruce and I'm a flashaholic ..."

Nope, that's the first step in finding a cure, of which I don't want. :crazy: I don't see this as much different than camera lenses. And like camera lenses, I expect my wife will only understand the true nature of how many I have after I have passed on.

Off topic, I have a quite a few of the manual Nikon lenses, but now I've moved into digital and these new DX zoom lenses do pretty much everything well and with VR to boot! I used to be a traditionalist, slide shooting with an FM2N (purely mechanical camera) and lugging around 3 extra lenses, filters, and Gitzo, but I have finally conceded that digital is just as good for my non-pro needs. But I still need a good light or three in my camera bag which is suddenly more spacious due to the lack of lenses. I hope they will give some sense of comfort by filling the void where my beloved metal lenses once occupied :mecry:. So, as far as the new flashlight hobby is concerned, game on!
 
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