klm74511
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- May 26, 2006
- Messages
- 23
I have already modded several Romisen Flashlight, Trustfire 801 and Sgt Burkett from Litemania with SCC P7 and Cree MC-E led, but is arrived the time for my friend's Tiablo A9 with smooth reflector to remove the old Q5 and take a freshly new cree MC-E 4P configuration.
First step, I completely took apart every single piece of the A9, as shown on the photos below. This didn't took too much time.
The project is to direct drive the MC-E from a 18650 Trusfire 2400mah.
I want drive the led at full power to obtain a wall of light.
I used the same board, due to is shape and the special driver holder inside the pill assembly. I removed all components on the board and soldered the + and - wires in a way to connect directly the battery to the led.
I used a Cree MC-E bin K from DX 4P configuration for one 18650 battery.
I trimmed down the star to be allocated on the pill recess and I had to avoid to use the Tiablo black original led insulator due to different height of the All star and wires soldering, using a KD led insulator.
I applied enough heatsink thermal compound helping to dissipate the heat generated from the led.
Finally the new Tiablo is almost ready.
I had to trim the reflector led hole to fit the MC-E that is slight larger than normal cree Q5 led.
I spent 20 minutes trying to find the best solution for led focusing.
I was aware that cree recommends to use the MC-E with OP reflector, but I think I have got a good result.
I mesured at the emitter with 18650 Protected Trustfire 2400mah at 3.8V a current flow of 2.77amp.
The flashlight get warm but not hot after 10 minutes od continuous usage.
Unfortunately after 5 minutes the tailcap switch dead. Without any spare I soldered and trimmed to the correct lenght the neg spring directly to the tail cap assembly, having as result the first Twist Tiablo A9.
Now I screw in completely the tail cap to fire the monster, to switch it off I have to unscrew less than a quarter of turn the tail cap.
I left the swith on the tailcap assembly with the leads disconnected, in a such of manner that if I pushed it I obtain a momentary on, when the tail cap is almost conducting.
And due to the close tollerance of the tailcap threads there is no possibility that the cap get loose easily.
I took some beamshoot outdoor. Sorry for the poor quality, but has been taken with my phone camera.
Is a master of throw with a good flood area, from long distance is visible a black center spot, that is not notable at 4-5 meters.
I played again and I was able to slightly improve the focusing of the led.
First step, I completely took apart every single piece of the A9, as shown on the photos below. This didn't took too much time.
The project is to direct drive the MC-E from a 18650 Trusfire 2400mah.
I want drive the led at full power to obtain a wall of light.
I used the same board, due to is shape and the special driver holder inside the pill assembly. I removed all components on the board and soldered the + and - wires in a way to connect directly the battery to the led.
I used a Cree MC-E bin K from DX 4P configuration for one 18650 battery.
I trimmed down the star to be allocated on the pill recess and I had to avoid to use the Tiablo black original led insulator due to different height of the All star and wires soldering, using a KD led insulator.
I applied enough heatsink thermal compound helping to dissipate the heat generated from the led.
Finally the new Tiablo is almost ready.
I had to trim the reflector led hole to fit the MC-E that is slight larger than normal cree Q5 led.
I spent 20 minutes trying to find the best solution for led focusing.
I was aware that cree recommends to use the MC-E with OP reflector, but I think I have got a good result.
I mesured at the emitter with 18650 Protected Trustfire 2400mah at 3.8V a current flow of 2.77amp.
The flashlight get warm but not hot after 10 minutes od continuous usage.
Unfortunately after 5 minutes the tailcap switch dead. Without any spare I soldered and trimmed to the correct lenght the neg spring directly to the tail cap assembly, having as result the first Twist Tiablo A9.
Now I screw in completely the tail cap to fire the monster, to switch it off I have to unscrew less than a quarter of turn the tail cap.
I left the swith on the tailcap assembly with the leads disconnected, in a such of manner that if I pushed it I obtain a momentary on, when the tail cap is almost conducting.
And due to the close tollerance of the tailcap threads there is no possibility that the cap get loose easily.
I took some beamshoot outdoor. Sorry for the poor quality, but has been taken with my phone camera.
Is a master of throw with a good flood area, from long distance is visible a black center spot, that is not notable at 4-5 meters.
I played again and I was able to slightly improve the focusing of the led.
