What is missing?

[Icebreak]

That would be a 2x18500 body with 2.5" head and WA1111. Right?

I was thinking 2 X protected 17500 with standard M3, C3 or G3 head. 18500s would be better but still in a standard head. I don't know the parabolic architecture of those reflectors. The WA1166 throws surprisingly well using a Pelican PM6 reflector (McR27 soft [short]). I thought that the similar filament in the WA1111 would allow it to perform fairly well in a C3 etc. and that a 500 + torch lumen incan in a slim, pocketable form might be useful to some folks.

I saw the Lumens Factory EO-M3T but wanted a slicker torch for less money and more output. However, I think your idea would be more popular.

- Jeff

 

[DM51]

I was thinking 2 X protected 17500 with standard M3, C3 or G3 head. 18500s would be better but still in a standard head.

I'm actually working on this idea already, using an M3 with a bored-out body to take 18500s (the WA1111 would draw too much current for 17500s).

The biggest difficulty with this mod is enlarging the hole in the standard M3 reflector to take the 1111 bulb, which is a bit bigger than an MNxx. The M3 head's shock-proof "floating" system makes it awkward to clamp the reflector for reaming out the hole and I haven't found a way to do it yet that I'm happy with. But the idea of a "sleeper" M3 that looks like a standard one but belts out ~800 lm is very appealing...

FM, if you produced something like that, I think there would be a lot of takers - it is much smaller and neater than a Mag host. The same would go for a 3 x 18500 version to take a WA1185.

EDIT: Just to repeat for clarity, I mean a standard M3 head, not the M3T turbo-head.

 

[sysadmn]

Since you asked, I want one of these, only better:
Output current/voltage adjustable (this one puts out 3.6v, .5 or .9, I think), Inexpensive (the one shown runs $29.95).

[URL="http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2919732540049214515wyMROs"]​

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[/URL]

Click for larger image.​

Bonus points:

• comes in 2,3,4D sizes
• comes in a kit with bi-pin socket, al reflector, and glass lens ($15-20 in parts?)
• two modes - one a "nightlight" and one full bore.

 

[Icebreak]

I'd sure like to know how that beam performs when you get the lamp to fit, DM51. I'm thinking that, though it won't throw like a turbo head would, the shear density of lumens will succeed in getting a good amount of usable photons on out there.

 

[Sway]

I could use some 4AA to 1D series holders in the style of your 8AA to 2D holders in this thread if they will work in a round/cylinder bored 1D Mag.

Something with less resistance and handle current better than the Willie Hunt style spring holder.

Please

Later
Kelly

 

[sb_pete]

I was thinking about it at work today and had a few ideas

1. some kind of shock isolation mounting for switch/driver housings. My mag85 frequently gets loose in its bi-pin holder (brand new FM dropin bi-pin holder). Some kind of simple retrofitable thing that either holds the bi-pins in better and/or helps isolate the whole driver assembly from shocks (I understand tigerlights have something along these lines ???)

2. dual switch technology in a mag body. I have no idea how it could be retrofitted - might require brand new body. But to have something like a 1d mag body with dual switching would be awesome - I am thinking a regulated, bi-pin, lithium powered, 1D type light (kinda like These with an AW-type switch in the normal place and a momentary-on switch in the tailcap. Something like the Pelican LAPD light would be cool, but for me I really only want a momentary on switch in the rear (I know it makes no difference in terms of running a 3-way switch - just saying...)

3. The machine work you do on mag bodies is awesome, but I think it would be nice to have a few available with the bare minimum in machining - no finning or cosmetic stuff, just resizing and/or boring, so that people could then machine and finish coat to their own tastes (or have a sleeper).

4. Speaking of my tastes, I haven't seen an 11.1v tribore in a ~3D host powered by 3P3S 17500's or 17670's with A) regulated bi-pin B) cut down and re-threaded from a 6D so the knurling goes all the way back C) med width diamond-pattern machined into the knurling D) finned AND fluted head E) lightly crenelated normal size bezel F) tailcap charging port G) tailspring resistance fix H) Surefire style dull HAIII finish I) VLOP reflector :twothumbs mmmm, yummy...

Anyways, just some thoughts.
Thanks again
-Pete

 

[jwl]

I could use some 4AA to 1D series holders in the style of your 8AA to 2D holders in this thread if they will work in a round/cylinder bored 1D Mag.

Something with less resistance and handle current better than the Willie Hunt style spring holder.

Please

Later
Kelly

+1 Me too...

 

[merlocka]

CPF should make an "open source" flashlight.

Design & spec 3 interfaces. The head/bezel, a swtich or adapter housing, and a body.

Then publish the design drawings so anyone can make the pieces. They would all be interchangeable.

We could have so many options then.

 

[sb_pete]

CPF should make an "open source" flashlight.

Design & spec 3 interfaces. The head/bezel, a swtich or adapter housing, and a body.

Then publish the design drawings so anyone can make the pieces. They would all be interchangeable.

We could have so many options then.

That's a pretty sweet idea! the guys making parts around here would still make money by being the ones who can actually make the parts, but having a whole bunch of designs available for people to look at and ask for to those who can actually do the work would be awesome.

Not quite what FM was asking for I think, but even so, it would probably lead to some innovation that would give him some new ideas for things to blow us away and drain our wallets

 

[maxilux]

@fivemega, wow an answer for any question, good work !

 

[KeyGrip]

1) Make a sliding tray with a secure anchor/clip that allows various colors of glass lenses to be interchanged.

This is already done in theatre lighting, and shouldn't be too difficult to implement on a smaller scale in flashlights. For reference, see the ETC Source 4 : http://www.etcconnect.com/product.overview.asp?ID=20080
That light uses a frame to hold the color, but only because the color is a flexable plastic sheet. Small rigid glass colors wouldn't need a frame.

 

[souptree]

For me what's missing is regulation in my SF M4. Regulated incans are just the bees' knees. FiveMega, I don't currently own any of your work, but I have been admiring it, and I'm quite sure that's going to change! :thumbsup:

 

[Bushman5]

ok picture this:

a all metal handheld lantern (handle on top) , with a 5 - 6" round aluminum or stainless steel body, BIG bundle of RC style batt packs inside, or a whole bunch of "D" NIMH batts maybe) , FM 3" turbo head on the front, choice of pencil beam or flood reflectors, Military grade toggle switch with rubber cover, a runtime of about 10 hours or so, and around 500 lumens. a choice in bulbs (bi pin, PR base, or say some of the lumens factory style drop ins.....

i dunno, i would gladly pay for a all stainless steel hand held lantern....

 

[fivemega]

IMO, there is too much power there for a 5 or 6 cell mag bulb to be used reliably.

Isn't M*g 6 cell bulb reliabe at 7.2 volt?

I really would like a HA body that can accept a SF M series head and an M6 tailcap that could hold either A123's, D sized li-ions, or 6x 18650 with an integrated soft start circuit.

It would be similar to this but larger. Right?
---

Anything long running in a FM body would be useful. How about something with two hours runtime? Three hours?

Carley 809 works perfectly in FM flashlights using 3 li ion "C" cells for long run per charge.
---

My buddy who does security would like a brighter, longer-running but still compact version of his SL Ultrastinger. The perfect thing would be a 3C lion light with a tail-switch, that was compatible with a Surefire M3 or M4 turbohead, and could operate for 90+ minutes. I'm hoping the lumen rating would be somewhere above 350 torch lumens...

Basicly you are looking fo something like this but with 3 cells to power up an WA1166 for 90 minutes.
---
LuxLuthor,
1) Sliding tray is very similar to camera filters which is used for color correction.
2) That is exactly what I am looking for but seems like not doable.
3) This has been done in FM11 & FM85. No sliding devices. Bulb negative pin sits on one piece socket. Positive pin directly connected to MC switch. Tail cap also have threaded hole to use piece of wire for lower resistance spring.
4) That's a great idea for small and mid size flashlights.
5) Similar to Makita work light. Right?
6) Do you mean something like PolyStinger or Stinger XT?
---

Prehaps finding a way to connect the head of the light onto the body using (poor heat conducting) rods to maximise heat protection to the cells and handle)

Actually, I am working on something similar.
---

A 4 battery/12 volt light like a SF 12P with a regular 1 hour 200 lumen lamp assembly, and a High Output lamp assembly of 350 lumens for 20 minutes. An option should be a medium size turbo head of 1.6 to 2 inches like the SF SRTH or the head on the Streamlight TL-3.

Don't you think 2x18650 or 3x18500 will serve better than 4x123?
---

MOP doesn't have the throw I need.
-Pete

---
That's why now I have 2" SMO, 2.5" Throw Master and SMO FM3V-2
---
Daekar,
1&2) To have a low resistance switch and tail cap spring, battery pack must be welded positive to switch, negative to body. In this case batteries won't be serviceable or individualy chargeable. Also haven't seen any forward clickie/momentary "ON" switch.
3) SMO dual function is available now and for better throw and smoother beam in 2" size DEEP REFLECTOR works fine.
4) I am sure Chris can do that.
5) Now 6AA and 9AA drop in battery holders are available but selling battery holders like 4AA or 6x17670 doesn't make sence simply because won't fit in any stock flashlight and not many people have access to lathe.
7) MC is best type I ever seen.
8) with a simple search, everybody can find out what fivemega or anybody else has in CPF's Custom & Mod B/S/T
---

FM, if you produced something like that, I think there would be a lot of takers - it is much smaller and neater than a Mag host. The same would go for a 3 x 18500 version to take a WA1185.
Just to repeat for clarity, I mean a standard M3 head, not the M3T turbo-head.

Are you refering to flashlights like 2x18650 & 3x18500 which can accomodate WA1111 and WA1185?
---

Since you asked, I want one of these

---
You missed this and this
However, they are not good for high current use.
---

I could use some 4AA to 1D series holders in the style of your 8AA to 2D holders in this thread if they will work in a round/cylinder bored 1D Mag.

Later
Kelly

I may do that if there is enough interest.
---
sb_pete,
1) Adding shock isolation in M*g will increase total cost while you can get $$$urefire.
2) Streamlight already have flashlights with dual switches. One for incan and second for LEDs.
3) My machine work products make them seperate from others. Everybody can cut down a M*g at home garage.
4) Something like this?
---

Not quite what FM was asking for I think, but even so, it would probably lead to some innovation that would give him some new ideas for things to blow us away and drain our wallets

Without publishing ideas, everybody steals my ideas like this, this, this, this and...
Can't they come up with new ideas?
---

FiveMega, I don't currently own any of your work.

You will.
Resisting is futile.
---

ok picture this:

a all metal handheld lantern (handle on top) , with a 5 - 6" round aluminum or stainless steel body, BIG bundle of RC style batt packs inside, or a whole bunch of "D" NIMH batts maybe) , FM 3" turbo head on the front,

There is a reason most of lanterns are made of plastic.
Machining such a big item from aluminum will be costly and stainless will be heavy.

 

[Bushman5]

weight is NOT an issue for me..it would be my truck lantern. I already have a 7" x 12" x 10" high ammo box, stuffed with a SLA battery, 6 gauge wiring, military toggle and a sealed tractor lamp on the front, it works great for site lighting or camping...but i want a BRIGHT version, maybe a lantern body with a MAG head so i could focus it (flood to spot) , with a FiveMega styling.. :devil:

 

[LuxLuthor]

1) Sliding tray is very similar to camera filters which is used for color correction.

I don't know how popular this would be, but it would be unique if you could get quality, heat resistance colored lens. This could theoretically be a "bezel add-on" item, and would be more marketable if it fit standard Mags. Could have a single hinge that allows lens holder to swing out, rather than a slide tray which would be a bit harder to make.
​

2) That is exactly what I am looking for but seems like not doable.

Maybe some day.
​

3) This has been done in FM11 & FM85. No sliding devices. Bulb negative pin sits on one piece socket. Positive pin directly connected to MC switch. Tail cap also have threaded hole to use piece of wire for lower resistance spring.

This is one of the few lights you have come out with that I never got. I honestly didn't know all these features were built into it.
​

4) That's a great idea for small and mid size flashlights.

I was thinking even for 2D/3D Mags if it was made well enough. Something similar to a strap on police baton stick.
​

5) Similar to Makita work light. Right?

I was kind of thinking of how the Acro 990 HID works....but as it would require separation of bulb from battery pack, not sure how viable it would be.
​

6) Do you mean something like PolyStinger or Stinger XT?

Yeah, but I like the idea of the rubber coating over aluminum frame better than the Poly plastic body model. That Pac-Skin is the perfect combination of thickness, grip, insulation properties for winter use.
​

BTW, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

Did I say more Elephants? LOL! Oh and more 2" Deep - I like the small form factor of those for 1D/1.5D

 

[beetleguise]

There are a lot of people people (myself included) who are excited about the cree q5's and want to do mods with c cell lithiums from AW. I think a simple 4 c cutdown for 3 aw lithiums with grooves and finning would be very popular. Right now I am contracting someone to make one for me!

 

[DM51]

Are you refering to flashlights like 2x18650 & 3x18500 which can accomodate WA1111 and WA1185?

Yes, that is what I meant.

The 2x18500 (1111) version would be about the size of a SF M3, with a ~1.5 inch (~40 mm) diameter head and a deep reflector. The head would have a 4 mm bi-pin socket. The 3x18500 (1185) version would have the same size head but be 50 mm longer for the extra cell.

3x18500 would be a versatile size, as you could also run 2x18650 in it with a half-cell (17 mm long) dummy.

Interchangeable bodies and tailcaps would be nice, so you could buy one head, 2 bodies for it if you wanted, and a choice of tactical / twisty or forward-clicky tailcap.

 

[MikeSalt]

I've had an idea, but not got the facilities to implement it. Take a large leisure battery, a 700 watt inverter and a 500 watt halogen security light. Strap it all together, should be several 1000 lumens. Difficult to focus though.

 

[paulr]

There is a reason most of lanterns are made of plastic. Machining such a big item from aluminum will be costly and stainless will be heavy.

I think a lantern could be made like the old 6 volt lanterns that used the 8F batteries with screw top terminals. Basically the lantern was a head/reflector/bulb assembly and maybe a taillight assembly, connected to a flat plate that screwed to the battery so the battery itself was not enclosed. Alternatively a battery could be enclosed in a plastic box, so that the other parts of the lantern (that have to deal with heat) would be metal. Or the battery enclosure could be a metal enclosure from a catalog, including some of the machined ones intended for RF applications.

I do think these direct drive incandescent lights are getting technologically behind the times and I can't get too excited about them any more, even though the machining work and the artistic concepts are just fantastic. I hope you can work with an electronics person to make some LVR-like regulated lights or even LED lights.