What size lathe for a 2D mag?

[Daekar]

I'm having trouble discerning what size lathe is necessary to do work (ID boring/threading and OD cutting/finning/threading) on a 2D maglite. Would a 7x12 be sufficient? 7x14? I get the impression that even if the light itself fits between the centers, you need more distance to do ID work... or am I making it more complicated than necessary?

Also... has anybody with a mini-lathe done work in high-carbon knife-blade steel? That might be something I'm interested in down the road... it doesn't matter if it takes a while to do, as long as the machine is capable of it.

 

[Anglepoise]

A 2D mag is aproximately 1.55" diameter.

So if you intend to do any internal work you have a couple of options.

1. Purchase a lathe with a spindle bore that will accept a 1.55" item.
This will be a large lathe.

2. Next option is a smaller lathe that will clamp one end of the 2D.
The other end is now sticking out 9" and is unstable to work on. So you need a means of supporting the tailstock end.
Now you can not use the tailstock as you are going to be working internally.
The device you need is called a steady rest. These work, sort off, but usually mark up the workpiece even if you try and protect the surface with a paper card or some such item.
Do a google search for lathe steady rest and you will find photos of them in use.

If you have the time and inclination you will be amazed at what can be achieved with a small lathe, but please be very realistic in your goals etc.

 

[Fred S]

You can make a sleeve out of HD nylon that press fits on the light body and run the steady rest on the nylon, Get the harder nylon so it doesn't slop around in the steady rest

 

[cmacclel]

You can make a sleeve out of HD nylon that press fits on the light body and run the steady rest on the nylon, Get the harder nylon so it doesn't slop around in the steady rest

Great Idea! Too bad the steady rest is like a $1000 option for my machine

Mac

 

[Anglepoise]

You can make a sleeve out of HD nylon that press fits on the light body and run the steady rest on the nylon, Get the harder nylon so it doesn't slop around in the steady rest

Great idea........boy do I love this internet ........

 

[wquiles]

To answer the original question: Since I had a 7x, and then an 8x already, to work on Mags, I would skip the 7x and 8x machines, and go to a minimum of the 9x30, like this one:
http://lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER9x30Lathe.htm

You could do a variable-speed DC conversion, install a nice 6" chuck, and you would be set with a very nice machine for those longer jobs

Will

 

[Fred S]

if you are real desperate, you can mount your light body on the cross-slide and put your tool in the lathe chuck. It usually takes forever to build the fixture and you end up using it one time but it can be done. You can't hardly thread this way, but you can tri-bore real nice, you run a long boring bar between centers and have the light body clamped down to the cross-slide and pull the light body up to the bar while the bar rotates through the center of the light

 

[precisionworks]

has anybody with a mini-lathe done work in high-carbon knife-blade steel?

Are you talking about machining before or after heat treat?

A2, O1 & W1 are all common high carbon steels that see service in custom knives. As delivered (pre heat treat), using carbide tooling, you can machine W1 & O1 at 600 sfpm. A2 is tougher, and you want to stay around 350 sfpm.

After heat treat, all three steels will easily test over 60 HRc. They are still somewhat machinable, but not with carbide which isn't effective over 42 HRc. Inserts made from ceramic, cermet, PCD, etc., will machine hardened knife steels.

 

[Daekar]

Are you talking about machining before or after heat treat?

A2, O1 & W1 are all common high carbon steels that see service in custom knives. As delivered (pre heat treat), using carbide tooling, you can machine W1 & O1 at 600 sfpm. A2 is tougher, and you want to stay around 350 sfpm.

After heat treat, all three steels will easily test over 60 HRc. They are still somewhat machinable, but not with carbide which isn't effective over 42 HRc. Inserts made from ceramic, cermet, PCD, etc., will machine hardened knife steels.

I'm thinking before heat-treat... no sense in wasting time, money, or wear if I won't have to. I thought it would be cool to do a knife where the blade just flows from the handle (which would have aggressive knurling on it).