Best AAA Keychain?

Looking for the best 10440 light:

- As compact as possible;
- Stainless or brass, although concerned about brass tarnishing;
- Hopefully Cree XP-G or equivalent. (No Chinese)
- Lots o' light;
- Reliable;
- Keychain mountable.

I've tried Fenix, but the electronics seem to die regularly after a year or so, with 10440. :ironic:

I've tried Peak, but they sent me the wrong light and then would not fix it so I had to take a loss selling it. :thumbsdow

Any suggestions? I'd like to avoid crapping out to Fenix again.

I have played with the ITP A3 EOS which is excellent.
While not a Cree high power led my ARC AAA is still the most compact and reliable keychain I have used.

Second that on the Arc AAA. Very small & reliable.

Think about a LiteFlux LF2XT. Not quite what you want, but it's considered to be the best AAA keychain light by many. It will give lots of light, especially using 10440's which it is designed to use. They've been very reliable and come with a keychain ring and a clip (these are interchangeable). It's not the smallest, only slightly longer than a Fenix, but that length is for the rear micro switch. That switch controls it's full programming capability, something unique in this type of light. Not available in stainless or brass. You can get black or natural anodized aluminum. If your pockets are deep it's also occasionally available in titanium.

To me it's far and away the most interesting little AAA out there. Don't let the progamming scare you away. It's not that tricky and allows you to set it up any way you want as far as brightness levels and sequence. Even has a three minute "off" timer, if you want to use it.

Geoff

Peak Solutions produce some rather nice key chain lights! :twothumbs

I've been running a Fenix LDO1 in Stainless for 2 years w/o any issues

I've owned a few Arc AAAs in my time and although beautiful, utilitarian, and bulletproof, not quite the output I wanted. I've been looking for a A3 for my keychain carabiner and decided to order the titanium upgrade ITP EOS. A bit indulgent, perhaps, but such a price for a small, functional light.

Wilkey

The Preon I comes in titanium and uses an XP-G...

Dr. Smoke said:

Looking for the best 10440 light:

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Liteflux LF2XT. Takes 10440 officially, not for the most of the other AAA lights, which the dealers advised against using 10440. They tend to heat up quickly on max.

Zeruel said:

Liteflux LF2XT. Takes 10440 officially, not for the most of the other AAA lights, which the dealers advised against using 10440. They tend to heat up quickly on max.

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^ This.

Not many AAA lights are rated for a 10440; generally speaking, an XR-E or XP-G running at its full rated power (which the higher-voltage lithium cell will usually drive it to) produces more heat than the small body of a AAA light can dissipate without overheating.

I know that the manufacturer advises against running an iTP A3 on a 10440; I'm surprised that the similarly-sized Liteflux LF2XT is rated for this, have any CFP'ers tried leaving one in "high" mode on a 10440 for any length of time?

jk037 said:

I know that the manufacturer advises against running an iTP A3 on a 10440; I'm surprised that the similarly-sized Liteflux LF2XT is rated for this, have any CFP'ers tried leaving one in "high" mode on a 10440 for any length of time?

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Selfbuilt has (not the greatest regulation, but probably unnoticeable in practice): https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235929

Zeruel said:

Liteflux LF2XT. Takes 10440 officially, not for the most of the other AAA lights, which the dealers advised against using 10440. They tend to heat up quickly on max.

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Let's face it, they say that more for liability reasons than functionality(Q MiNi comes to mind).

Dr. Smoke said:

(No Chinese)

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Well that right there rules out most of the field and you don't want Peak but do want an XP-G running on a 10440. No such animal right now unless you have one custom built.

Zendude said:

Let's face it, they say that more for liability reasons than functionality(Q MiNi comes to mind).

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Nope, I have several AAA lights to test against LF2XT, they heat up faster and hotter on max than the latter. This includes the Q Mini AA which I use 14500. However, I don't think you're wrong to say about the liability reasons as well. :thinking:

Thanks all.

The Liteflux has a neutral lamp, it only comes in aluminum (which scratches badly on a keychain), and is only water-resistant. I do like the 3 minute timer.

WOW, the Preon 1 with XP-G in titanium for $55! This would be much lighter than the SS I'm used to carrying. AR lens. Only thing is Hi mode is #3. I would have to be careful of overheating.

Dan when I say 'no Chinese', I mean no Chinese lamps.

So far it looks like my solution-set is the
- Fenix LD01 SS (XR-E-Q5, 80lm-3rd mode, $52)
- ITP A3 EOS SS (XP-E-Q5, 80lm-3rd mode, $30)
- Preon I Titanium (XP-G-R5, 70lm-3rd mode, $55)

I know everyone prefers what they have, but objectively what is best? What's the difference between these lamps? I believe the XP-G is newest, but it's not brightest, why? Would titanium get scratchy on a keychain? I wish brightest were first mode.

Dr. Smoke said:

..... Would titanium get scratchy on a keychain? .......

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Yes, if it is polished titanium it will get scratchy.

Dr. Smoke said:

So far it looks like my solution-set is the
- Fenix LD01 SS (XR-E-Q5, 80lm-3rd mode, $52)
- ITP A3 EOS SS (XP-E-Q5, 80lm-3rd mode, $30)
- Preon I Titanium (XP-G-R5, 70lm-3rd mode, $55)

Click to expand...

I kind of thought all these lights were made in China of parts produced in China. Could certainly be wrong.

Geoff

Well, it's not quite to the specs given, and I guess people will yell at me for saying this, but there is a light that's a 'best buy' of sorts. (Although I like my ITP eos A3 upgrade a lot).

Get thee to Walmart and get a 1aaa Rayovac BRSLEDKEY -- it'll be about $3.
It's terrible: when you turn it on you get a purple and green clown face for an artifact.
Now drill or cut out the lens in the front (you have a few millimeters clearance without damaging the led -- I used a graving burin, and exacto knife with blade side up and pushing it into the plastic as if engraving). Then you can push the works, circuit board, rear washer, and all, out the front and get rid of the silly reflector they have there, and which blocks part of the led so it cuts the light output. Then shape a new reflector into a rough parabola shape out of heavy aluminum foil (grind a dowel to act as a mandrel, wax it so it's non-stick, and shape the foil around it with some glue where needed to stiffen it and hold it in shape.

Now the hardest part: you have to roll up a cylinder out of plastic or like that to act as a spacer to replace the reflector you took out -- 15mm diameter and about 14mm long, depending on how thick the new crystal/lens will be. You can cut a cylinder from the center post of an old 50-CD pack. Cut a piece of clear plastic to act as a crystal/'lens' (the clear CD in the bottom of a pack of CDs can be used). Or whatever you come up with that's lying aorund the house or you find in the trash.

If you smooth out the foil reflecter it works a lot like an orange peel finish. When you get finished, it's passable bright, and the beam is floody with a soft bright center, but without artifacts and ugly colors (except it's a little purpleish towards the center spot). I left the o-ring out since I sealed it when I glued it together anyway -- and that works fine. I also painted the front part of mine with glitter nail polish to give it more of a grip so I can twist it on with one hand.

So what you get is a very passable keyring light for three dollars, which you can use while waiting for something fancy and expensive, and have a fun day modding it. This is the best keychainlight you can have because you worked on it yourself, and didn't risk a lot of money (if you ruin it -- just go back to Walmart and buy another one, and try again), and now have entered the wonderful world of modding.

Flying Turtle said:

I kind of thought all these lights were made in China of parts produced in China. Could certainly be wrong.

Geoff

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I think he is talking about those "noname" leds that really-cheap flashlights have (think about 3-4 $ range in DX).

Dr. Smoke said:

Dan when I say 'no Chinese', I mean no Chinese lamps.

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Zeruel said:

Nope, I have several AAA lights to test against LF2XT, they heat up faster and hotter on max than the latter. This includes the Q Mini AA which I use 14500. However, I don't think you're wrong to say about the liability reasons as well. :thinking:

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I agree the LF2XT does show some restraint on high so less chance of overheating. I just meant the circuits on these other lights could handle the higher voltage. The manufacturers just don't want to be held liable when people don't use common sense.

Dr. Smoke said:

Thanks all.

The Liteflux has a neutral lamp, it only comes in aluminum (which scratches badly on a keychain), and is only water-resistant. I do like the 3 minute timer.

WOW, the Preon 1 with XP-G in titanium for $55! This would be much lighter than the SS I'm used to carrying. AR lens. Only thing is Hi mode is #3. I would have to be careful of overheating.

Dan when I say 'no Chinese', I mean no Chinese lamps.

So far it looks like my solution-set is the
- Fenix LD01 SS (XR-E-Q5, 80lm-3rd mode, $52)
- ITP A3 EOS SS (XP-E-Q5, 80lm-3rd mode, $30)
- Preon I Titanium (XP-G-R5, 70lm-3rd mode, $55)

I know everyone prefers what they have, but objectively what is best? What's the difference between these lamps? I believe the XP-G is newest, but it's not brightest, why? Would titanium get scratchy on a keychain? I wish brightest were first mode.

Click to expand...

You should add the IlluminaTi to the mix. They also make the A3 in Ti.