A bit overwhelmed. Looking for a small camping/survival AA or AAA

mitsuman47

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Hey guys,

First post. And I'm a bit overwhelmed. I'm looking for a small backup camping/survival light with these requirements.

single AA or single AAA (love my rechargeable eneloops)
twist on/off
long run time on low (~100 hrs)
Able to be submerged in water

I really like what I've heard about the Ra Twisty, but it uses cr123 batteries, so unfortunately its out. But, something similar that runs on aa or aaa would be perfect.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

Solscud007

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I would take a look at the Quark AA by 4 sevens. Moonlight mode lasts 10 days at .2 lumens. Some people cant use that but I have and it is perfect for night adapted vision. in total darkness. I wish my Sunwayman went that low.

You can get extra bodies like a 2xAA for brighter performance. Or use a 14500 li-ion rechargeable battery (it is the same size as a AA but puts out 3.7 volts instead of Alkaline 1.5 or nimh 1.2)

Take a look at this Quark Roundup. It is a LOT of info but just try to wrap your head around the run times for the light.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...123-QAA-Q123-2-QAA-2-RUNTIMES-COMPARISONS-etc

I just saw your twist on/off requirement. Why do you want a twisty?

If you are set on a twist then take a look at the quark mini line. They make a AA and it puts out 90 lumens on an alkaline.

Low is 2.7 lumens and only lasts 60 hours.

4sevens mentions IPX-8 Waterproofing.
 
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jbdan

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What about a Thrunite neutron 1A. It claims 100hrs on low (.09 lms) and even comes in a neutral flavor if your not a fan of cool white. Price is good as well about 1/4 of what the HDS rotary costs! Selfbuilts review also shows much higher lumen count than what Thrunite claims (iirc 240lm in a lightbox).

I have read some reports of a wobbly head on the thrunite neutron units, but you could always try ordering from going gear and see if the guys would be so kind to check the light out before shipping. Just a thought.

EDIT: Egads my bad saw you want twisty
 
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Outdoorsman5

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Yep - The Quark Mini comes pretty close to meeting your request.

I like the Quark AA with the clicky switch better....especially running on a 14500 Li-ion rechargeable - produces 200 lumens on that battery, yet will still accept standard AA's or NiMH or even lithiums.
 

Solscud007

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The only problem I have with the Quark minis, is that twisting can sometimes skip modes. So say you want to switch from low to high. Well sometimes it will skip medium.

The Quark regular has a tailcap switch. But you twist the head loose to switch to lower modes. full tightened head will give you full brightness and a strobe if you re-press the switch.
 

jorn

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The mini is even brighter on a 14500:devil: Its smaller too, so if you want to carry less weight (minimalist), it's a good choise. For aaa i would go for the quark preon revo.

You should also check out the zebralight sc50+ (sc50w+ if you like neutral tint, or using it outdoors) It's on sale on zebralight.com and its a really good light for camping, and good value for the money. You can even use it as a headlamp and imo that is priceless when camping . It's tiny and got a small xp-e led, so it got good throw for it's size. It's not a twisty, but it's so easy to accidental activate that you need to lock the tailcap when pocket carry, so there is some form of twisting involved:tinfoil:
 

Derek Dean

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Howdy mitsuman47 and welcome to CPF,
Yes, this site can be a bit overwhelming when you first arrive, so take a deep breath and relax. By taking your time and doing a bit of reading I'm sure you'll find the right light.

The way I approach a task like yours is to start with the process of elimination. By making a list of the important features you want, you'll be able to quickly narrow the field down to just a few potential candidates.

Do you want a floody beam or more of a narrow spot like beam, or a general purpose beam? Is the light for around camp or spotting animals?

You'll have a choice of body materials.... aluminum generally being the lightest and least expensive, with stainless steel being more durable.. but heavier and more costly.

Is size important? Is price important? Is the color of the light coming from the LED important (tint)? Many folks who are using their lights outdoors find they prefer a warmer tint, so that's something to consider.

Be sure and check this page out..... it will help you understand the language we use to discuss lights better:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?277224-The-Welcome-Mat-a-FAQ

Also, be sure and make use of the Google Search feature at the top left of most pages. Just leave it checked to search CPF only and it will narrow your searches to only relevant CPF posts.... a VERY handy feature.

We have an excellent review area here at CPF as well..... and some of our members are outstanding reviewers. Also check out this site:
http://www.light-reviews.com/

If you have any questions about rechargeable batteries, this is the place:
http://batteryuniversity.com/

We also recommend that folks consider having AT LEAST two lights. First, it's hard to find one light that will cover every situation, and second, things happen and one light could go out (even very rugged lights sometimes fail), so it's better to be prepared with a backup.

You'll get lots of good recommendations here, but remember it's up to YOU to do the research and find the light, or lights, that fit YOUR needs.

So, don't be in a hurry. Spend some time browsing CPF for a few weeks and pretty soon you'll begin to see which lights will work best for you.

Have fun! :)
 
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Derek Dean

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Is there a review on this light anywhere? I see that it says adjustable output, but it is it a infi adjustment?
It's so new only a few folks have them (I'm waiting for the Eiger AAA which should be available by the end of this week or the beginning of next week).

Head over to the Peak Solutions area to read about what Curt is doing with this amazing new QTC material:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?64-Peak-LED-Solutions

I think the ramifications of this new material on the flashlight world are just beginning to be felt. It seems to offer incredible potential..... and yes..... from what I've seen it does allow for a very smooth infinite adjustment from off to max output.

What's cool is that Peak lights have long been known for their exceptional build quality (including fully potted heads where the electronics are encased in a special epoxy to minimize shock or moisture damage), but they've pretty much had single level lights. But now it's onward to infinite level adjustment with no added electronics. Neat.
 

Double_A

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I'll throw my hat in with the Quark Mini team.

I have the AAx2 Mini it is only a bit more than 5" long. For a two AA light that darn good!
 

mitsuman47

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Thanks for the help, everyone.

To answer some of the questions that have been asked...


"I just saw your twist on/off requirement. Why do you want a twisty?"

I've heard that twisties are more reliable. Is this generally true? Or, would I be just as happy with a clicky in regards to reliability? It's going to be my backup light, so I need it to be reliable as possible.

Speaking of reliability. Is a one cell light generally more reliable than a multiple cell light?


"Do you want a floody beam or more of a narrow spot like beam, or a general purpose beam? Is the light for around camp or spotting animals? "

I'd like a general purpose beam. Jack of all trades type thing. Like I said, it'll be my backup light. So, it could be asked to do anything. But, it has to be compact at the same time.

"Is size important?"

Yes. I'd like it to be rather compact. No bigger than the quark aa2 tactical "type".

" Is price important? "

Yeah. I'd like to keep it under $100. Under $75 is even better, but not at all necessary. (I can adjust the budget if need be, but I'd like it to be justified.)

I'd also like to add that I don't mind buying some rechargeable lithium batteries, but I'd like to be able to use my eneloops in a pinch, unless there are some lithiums in another size that can be recharged as many times, and are as reliable as the eneloops.
 

Bronco

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I've heard that twisties are more reliable. Is this generally true?

All other things being equal, the short answer here is yes. No matter how stellar a reputation for ruggedness, durability and reliability a particular manufacture might have, it's almost invariably the case that, whenever they offer the same model with both a twisty and a clicky option, the clicky version will experience more failures related to activating the light. Additionally, a clicky switch usually represents at least one more avenue for potential water intrusion. That said, you obviously don't want to misinterpret this as me saying there aren't any clicky lights that can be considered reliable, only that in most cases, a twisty version of the same will enjoy a slight advantage in reliability.

Speaking of reliability. Is a one cell light generally more reliable than a multiple cell light?

Here too, the absolute answer is yes. Insofar as batteries themselves are but another component of the light that is capable of failing, then it goes to reason that the more you need to have operating in your system, the more likely you are to experience a failure of some sort. But again we are faced with essentially a risk management question. Is the incidence of battery failure high enough to be of a practical concern? To that I would say, probably not. Most high quality alkaline, lithium and rechargeable NiMHs are manufactured to such tolerances today that experiencing a failure is highly unlikely. And so long as you have an appropriate number of spare cells with you, then the problem becomes even less. Rechargeable lithium ion cells pose a more significant risk because one bad cell can more easily affect other good cells in the system and also because of their greater potential for failing in a more explosive fashion.

Last note - where extreme reliability is desired, don't overlook the advice already offered regarding potted electronics. :)
 
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CarpentryHero

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My favorite 1aa lights are those that can run on eneloops or 14500's
The sturdiest I've seenis the Crelant 7G1, I also like the Quark AA and the Thrunite Nueton 1a.

Twisties I don't typically buy but if I was too it'd be A Quark or Fenix

:welcome:
 

bkumanski

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I know your requirement is AA form factor (presumably to swap out with alkalines in a pinch). But I'd like to throw one thing at you. Since you mentioned in the title this is a camping/emergency light, why no 123 primaries? They have a superior shelf life and you know they will be ready when that emergency hits. At about $1 each, it isn't even really a cost issue either. In an emergency light I rarely use, much less check the battery voltage on, lithium primaries give me peace of mind. I run LSD AAs in my home lights, LiIons in my work lights, and nothing but 123s in my survival/camping lights. When you don't have access to more batteries, its nice to know the 123s are always ready to go. Just my $.02.

BTW, if it must be a AA light, my dad and I love our Eagletac P10A2s. Bulletproof, nice finish, good regulation and long runtime on low. They are simple with only two modes, high and low.

Good Luck!
 

ringzero

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Since you mentioned in the title this is a camping/emergency light, why no 123 primaries? They have a superior shelf life and you know they will be ready when that emergency hits.


This used to be a big advantage of CR123 cells over AA cells, but it no longer holds true.

I can pick up Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA and AAA cells when going through the check out lane at the local supermarket for less than 2 bucks apiece, available in four packs. Advanced Lithium AA and AAA are also available at a few bucks cheaper per four pack.

Energizer rates these cells as good to go for 10+ years.

At that same supermarket CR123 cells are over 7 bucks apiece, available in two packs.

Similar prices obtain at Lowes, Home Depot, Walgreens, and QVC.

I know you can get better prices on CR123 cells online, but frankly it isn't worth the hassle to me or to most people.

If you need batteries during an outdoor adventure, it's nice to know that you can get some usable form of AA cells at every little small town store or gas station, even out in the proverbial middle of nowhere.

.
 

Solscud007

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I too second the AA form factor. Now that I have a 14500 li-ion rechargeable I can run my AA LEDs at the same performance as a 123 primary light.

For the newbies, LEDs are rather flexible with voltage. Most single cell LEDs can run a rechargeable li-ion. Now the only thing you need to know is that primary 123 batteries run 3 volts. Li-ion rechargeable, regardless of physical shape and size, run 4.2v hot off a charger and then settle to 3.7v.

Most popular brands like 4sevens and Fenix can run either of those batteries.

Now with the AA size you can run a lower output on a simple 1.5v Alkaline or a 1.2v NIMH. Take the Quark series lights. The 1 cell lights operate from 0.9v-4.2v. So it doesnt matter what you put in there. Now at 4.2v you do get more lumen output.

But the ease of mind knowing that you can throw ANYTHING in there is comforting.
 

bkumanski

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This used to be a big advantage of CR123 cells over AA cells, but it no longer holds true.

I can pick up Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA and AAA cells when going through the check out lane at the local supermarket for less than 2 bucks apiece, available in four packs. Advanced Lithium AA and AAA are also available at a few bucks cheaper per four pack.

Energizer rates these cells as good to go for 10+ years.

At that same supermarket CR123 cells are over 7 bucks apiece, available in two packs.

Similar prices obtain at Lowes, Home Depot, Walgreens, and QVC.

I know you can get better prices on CR123 cells online, but frankly it isn't worth the hassle to me or to most people.

If you need batteries during an outdoor adventure, it's nice to know that you can get some usable form of AA cells at every little small town store or gas station, even out in the proverbial middle of nowhere.

.
Agreed with the "low voltage" lithiums. I use those in my SPOT and Garmin. Same argument as the 123s, I suppose and they have good shelf life too. True they are cheaper in a store, but "for emergencies" I don't discount the fact I can have 10 or so stored for a long time and can get them shipped for free (this is actually easier than driving to the store IMO). To each his own as far as form factor (the AA lights are slimmer and "sexier"). I think the big point here is to have some sort of lithium primary available for those emergencies, either 123s or AAs. Good point ringzero.
 

ringzero

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Agreed with the "low voltage" lithiums. I use those in my SPOT and Garmin. Same argument as the 123s, I suppose and they have good shelf life too. True they are cheaper in a store, but "for emergencies" I don't discount the fact I can have 10 or so stored for a long time and can get them shipped for free (this is actually easier than driving to the store IMO). To each his own as far as form factor (the AA lights are slimmer and "sexier"). I think the big point here is to have some sort of lithium primary available for those emergencies, either 123s or AAs. Good point ringzero.


Agreed - cell choice is a matter of taste, and there's no accounting for taste. ;>

I no longer own any CR123 lights, having sold off or traded 'em all away.

Given tech advancement of the last few years, nowdays running any device on CR123 cells just makes no sense at all - at least to me.

Since you run your SPOT and Garmin on AA cells, wouldn't it be easier and more efficient to also run your outdoors lights on AA cells?

.
 
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