Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting
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Quiksilver
Enlightened
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Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
I've been preaching this for years, brother!
AA batteries are fine to use and easy to find while there is a supply line for them.
Once that supply line stops, the high demand for AA batteries will deplete the existing supply rapidly.
If you're using CR123, the demand is EXCEEDINGLY low (at least in my place) unless you're a keen photographer in a long-term disaster. All those camera shops and specialty electronics shops will have CR123 batteries long after the last AA departs. Why would anyone with a AA or D light (99.99% of public) pick up those 'funny-looking' short batteries that don't fit any of their stuff?
Granted the overall supply of CR123 is not as prolific as AA, however the supply is enough for the few people that will be using them.
Also, call me crazy, but I did a little hunting last year and found all the warehouses, battery stores, electronics shops, etc in my area... Anywhere that probably has CR123 cells or even AA ... And I put pinpoints on a map of the area I have.
If anything goes down and looks like it ain't coming back up, I'll be keeping a keen eye on those warehouses and buildings. If they look deserted, I'll be moving in to take what I need.
Personally I recommend:
- Keeping a supply of AA batteries for barter. Need a can of beans? Someone probably needs a pair of AA batteries. Very useful to have your own hidden stock of AA.
- Use a light that runs on a less-common cell such as CR123. People who have them likely have no use for them and thus the barter price would be lower. Also, due to lower demand, long after the twinkies and candies have been pillaged from gas stations, you'll probably be able to find a few CR123 cells left on the rack... No one takes the funny-lookin cells.
I've been preaching this for years, brother!
AA batteries are fine to use and easy to find while there is a supply line for them.
Once that supply line stops, the high demand for AA batteries will deplete the existing supply rapidly.
If you're using CR123, the demand is EXCEEDINGLY low (at least in my place) unless you're a keen photographer in a long-term disaster. All those camera shops and specialty electronics shops will have CR123 batteries long after the last AA departs. Why would anyone with a AA or D light (99.99% of public) pick up those 'funny-looking' short batteries that don't fit any of their stuff?
Granted the overall supply of CR123 is not as prolific as AA, however the supply is enough for the few people that will be using them.
Also, call me crazy, but I did a little hunting last year and found all the warehouses, battery stores, electronics shops, etc in my area... Anywhere that probably has CR123 cells or even AA ... And I put pinpoints on a map of the area I have.
If anything goes down and looks like it ain't coming back up, I'll be keeping a keen eye on those warehouses and buildings. If they look deserted, I'll be moving in to take what I need.
Personally I recommend:
- Keeping a supply of AA batteries for barter. Need a can of beans? Someone probably needs a pair of AA batteries. Very useful to have your own hidden stock of AA.
- Use a light that runs on a less-common cell such as CR123. People who have them likely have no use for them and thus the barter price would be lower. Also, due to lower demand, long after the twinkies and candies have been pillaged from gas stations, you'll probably be able to find a few CR123 cells left on the rack... No one takes the funny-lookin cells.
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
It would be difficult for the ZebraLight to match it--that could only happen if the CMG Infinity's boost circuit were fairly inefficient, which does not appear to be the case. Among regulated white LED flashlights, however, the SC51/H51 series should be among the best--if not THE best--at draining single AAs because they do have exceptionally efficient circuits.
It must have something to do with the inherently lower minimum forward voltage of red LEDs (as low as 1.7V), which in turn probably has something to do with the lower energy level of red photons. Typical white LEDs are actually based on high-intensity blue LED dies, which require a significantly higher voltage to light up at all. Obviously it is easier to boost nearly-dead cells to a lower voltage than a higher one, which helps red LED flashlights drain more energy from the cells than white LED flashlights can, and therefore run for longer, all else being equal.
That's in the context of finding batteries in stores during an emergency, however--scrounging batteries from other devices at home and even other people is another matter.
I've not done any serious testing because I don't want to risk having a battery leak from being completely drained, but I can say from experience that the H51 is really good at draining batteries for what it is, which is a regulated white LED 1xAA flashlight. Other types of flashlight (e.g. unregulated, multiple cells, red LED, etc.) may potentially do even better, but nevertheless I think the H51 is a great choice for emergencies (and lots of other things). By the way, one hint as to its efficiency is that it can hold regulation on an alkaline cell at the second-highest output level--H2, which is 140 lumens with the cool white model--for over half an hour, while most 1xAA flashlights cannot hold regulation on an alkaline cell at all when their output is anywhere near 100 lumens.
oo:
I haven't done any formal testing, but one thing I'd like to point out is that it's actually easier to completely kill an L91 than an alkaline cell. L91s don't regulate as well as eneloops on H1, but will run for substantially longer on all modes--this and their other qualities make them great for some uses, including long-term backup. However, it is possible to run an L91 down so low on the high and medium modes that hardly any energy remains even for the low modes. In comparison, eneloops will step down to lower modes sooner and more abruptly, but they will usually have more energy available for the lower modes afterward. Wimpy alkalines weaken quickly on the higher modes, but seem to linger forever on the low modes, especially if you let them rest every so often. But run an L91 long enough even on M1 or M2, and it can and sometimes will DIE there--I mean dead as a doornail, no juice left even for L2. I'm not sure whether this is an H51 thing or a lithium thing or a combination of both, but I've seen a couple of CR123As die like that, too (in other flashlights).
It would be difficult for the ZebraLight to match it--that could only happen if the CMG Infinity's boost circuit were fairly inefficient, which does not appear to be the case. Among regulated white LED flashlights, however, the SC51/H51 series should be among the best--if not THE best--at draining single AAs because they do have exceptionally efficient circuits.
It must have something to do with the inherently lower minimum forward voltage of red LEDs (as low as 1.7V), which in turn probably has something to do with the lower energy level of red photons. Typical white LEDs are actually based on high-intensity blue LED dies, which require a significantly higher voltage to light up at all. Obviously it is easier to boost nearly-dead cells to a lower voltage than a higher one, which helps red LED flashlights drain more energy from the cells than white LED flashlights can, and therefore run for longer, all else being equal.
That's in the context of finding batteries in stores during an emergency, however--scrounging batteries from other devices at home and even other people is another matter.
I've not done any serious testing because I don't want to risk having a battery leak from being completely drained, but I can say from experience that the H51 is really good at draining batteries for what it is, which is a regulated white LED 1xAA flashlight. Other types of flashlight (e.g. unregulated, multiple cells, red LED, etc.) may potentially do even better, but nevertheless I think the H51 is a great choice for emergencies (and lots of other things). By the way, one hint as to its efficiency is that it can hold regulation on an alkaline cell at the second-highest output level--H2, which is 140 lumens with the cool white model--for over half an hour, while most 1xAA flashlights cannot hold regulation on an alkaline cell at all when their output is anywhere near 100 lumens.
oo:I haven't done any formal testing, but one thing I'd like to point out is that it's actually easier to completely kill an L91 than an alkaline cell. L91s don't regulate as well as eneloops on H1, but will run for substantially longer on all modes--this and their other qualities make them great for some uses, including long-term backup. However, it is possible to run an L91 down so low on the high and medium modes that hardly any energy remains even for the low modes. In comparison, eneloops will step down to lower modes sooner and more abruptly, but they will usually have more energy available for the lower modes afterward. Wimpy alkalines weaken quickly on the higher modes, but seem to linger forever on the low modes, especially if you let them rest every so often. But run an L91 long enough even on M1 or M2, and it can and sometimes will DIE there--I mean dead as a doornail, no juice left even for L2. I'm not sure whether this is an H51 thing or a lithium thing or a combination of both, but I've seen a couple of CR123As die like that, too (in other flashlights).
Gregozedobe
Enlightened
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
I also found that my ZL H51 was an excellent battery vampire - my 2nd best in fact. Doesn't mean I'd be rushing to put almost dead alkalines in it, too much risk of leakage and damage.
My best battery vampire is a real cheapy from Windeal on ebay - it was still glowing (not brightly, but usably), when I pulled the battery out and it was showing 0.26v on my dmm.
I also found that my ZL H51 was an excellent battery vampire - my 2nd best in fact. Doesn't mean I'd be rushing to put almost dead alkalines in it, too much risk of leakage and damage.
My best battery vampire is a real cheapy from Windeal on ebay - it was still glowing (not brightly, but usably), when I pulled the battery out and it was showing 0.26v on my dmm.
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
I've been playing with Zebralight H51Fc for a couple of weeks now and I've managed to get a brief flash on low with it using a dead battery that won't fire the old red CMG Infinity at all. I'm impressed.
Gregozedobe I'm curious what the make/model of your cheapy battery vampire?
I've been playing with Zebralight H51Fc for a couple of weeks now and I've managed to get a brief flash on low with it using a dead battery that won't fire the old red CMG Infinity at all. I'm impressed.
Gregozedobe I'm curious what the make/model of your cheapy battery vampire?
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Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
Very true--for most tasks, especially under dark conditions, a couple of lumens is quite enough whether we need to conserve or not, and even 1/10 of that or less can often suffice.
That IS impressive!oo: Frankly, I wouldn't have expected this, as red LED flashlights have a clear theoretical advantage in this respect, but obviously in practice there are a lot of other factors involved. The H51/SC51 series circuit must be really, really efficient (and the same circuit would have an advantage with red LEDs, by the way).
Very true--for most tasks, especially under dark conditions, a couple of lumens is quite enough whether we need to conserve or not, and even 1/10 of that or less can often suffice.
That IS impressive!
oo: Frankly, I wouldn't have expected this, as red LED flashlights have a clear theoretical advantage in this respect, but obviously in practice there are a lot of other factors involved. The H51/SC51 series circuit must be really, really efficient (and the same circuit would have an advantage with red LEDs, by the way).Gregozedobe
Enlightened
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
It is labelled as: "Powerlight HX-G011 3W LED", ebay item # 140571826345 I'd have given you the link to make it easier, but that seems to be a no-no these days, especially for cheap lights. After a quick bit of google-fu they seem to be available from other (ahem) budget light sellers as well (Dx DD). All in all, a very cheap ($2.20 delivered) light that produces usable illumination that is ideal for "I don't really care what happens after I have gifted it" giveaways, and if a leaking alakaline kills it then not too many tears lost.
Note that not all ZL AA lights are equal performers in this respect. Based on my testing using a very depleted alakline AA, my Mk I H51 (GITD ring, no clip) is noticeably better than my SC51, SC51c and H501 (old model). Of course it may just be the LED in this particular light has a lower than average vf.
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
ok, I'm still up and just read your replies, Merry Boxing Day all.
Gregozedobe thanks for the recollection, it worked fine. I'm saving that search result but I'm also hoping that's not a fluke. It makes me wonder if technology wise there wasn't a thing that happened where the electronics tech exceeded the leds for a time before led tech exploded and efficient circuitry was scrapped for more powerful designs that could utilize the newer, more capable leds. ...And now there's lots of really well made, outdated circuitry out there in some really cheap electronics, subject to their quality of assembly of course. Just an outside view not knowing the particular realities of electronic design, I assume I'm missing some things.
GaAslamp, I double checked that with the same battery (saved it because I thought it was cool) and I Was Wrong.
The initial flash that I described is some capacitor thing in the light itself.......
(drum roll)
The battery will do much more than make a flash, it will tolerate being turned on to Med level with a double click (first click defaults to High with a momentary flash, second of double click sets level at Medium.) There is a brief flash, three or four seconds of dimmer brightness and then it goes into a flickering low. Minutes later typing this the light is still emitting a sickly dim flickering glow, the light dimming briefly about 8 times per second.
I put the battery in the old CMG right before trying the H51Fc to give the CMG more of a chance, nothing though.
I have run batteries down in the CMG to where the head came off with a high pressure pop before (more than 2 atmospheres I wager, definitely not worried about the CMG water tightness with it's 12+ years old o-rings).
Test is over now, been typing slowly for the last 5 minutes or so and I turned it off and it wouldn't turn back on.
Battery reads at .61v.
I got another flash out of it, but now there is nothing, I'll bet I could get another few minutes of sickly flickering out of it tomorrow.
Also just as Gregozedobe mentioned that the ZL led might have a lower vf (I don't know that term yet) another variable is of course that this particular CMG might be Less efficient than an average Red CMG for whatever reason.
But I'll bet that the circuitry is just that much better, coupled with a nice led... too cool.
Now if it'll just last as long as the CMG has I'll really be impressed, hope I outlast both of them. ;-)
ok, I'm still up and just read your replies, Merry Boxing Day all.
Gregozedobe thanks for the recollection, it worked fine. I'm saving that search result but I'm also hoping that's not a fluke. It makes me wonder if technology wise there wasn't a thing that happened where the electronics tech exceeded the leds for a time before led tech exploded and efficient circuitry was scrapped for more powerful designs that could utilize the newer, more capable leds. ...And now there's lots of really well made, outdated circuitry out there in some really cheap electronics, subject to their quality of assembly of course. Just an outside view not knowing the particular realities of electronic design, I assume I'm missing some things.
GaAslamp, I double checked that with the same battery (saved it because I thought it was cool) and I Was Wrong.
The initial flash that I described is some capacitor thing in the light itself.......
(drum roll)
The battery will do much more than make a flash, it will tolerate being turned on to Med level with a double click (first click defaults to High with a momentary flash, second of double click sets level at Medium.) There is a brief flash, three or four seconds of dimmer brightness and then it goes into a flickering low. Minutes later typing this the light is still emitting a sickly dim flickering glow, the light dimming briefly about 8 times per second.
I put the battery in the old CMG right before trying the H51Fc to give the CMG more of a chance, nothing though.
I have run batteries down in the CMG to where the head came off with a high pressure pop before (more than 2 atmospheres I wager, definitely not worried about the CMG water tightness with it's 12+ years old o-rings).
Test is over now, been typing slowly for the last 5 minutes or so and I turned it off and it wouldn't turn back on.
Battery reads at .61v.
I got another flash out of it, but now there is nothing, I'll bet I could get another few minutes of sickly flickering out of it tomorrow.
Also just as Gregozedobe mentioned that the ZL led might have a lower vf (I don't know that term yet) another variable is of course that this particular CMG might be Less efficient than an average Red CMG for whatever reason.
But I'll bet that the circuitry is just that much better, coupled with a nice led... too cool.
Now if it'll just last as long as the CMG has I'll really be impressed, hope I outlast both of them. ;-)
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Gregozedobe
Enlightened
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
I'm not that up on the techo side myself, but my understanding is that Vf (forward voltage) is the voltage that a particular LED needs to light up properly. From what I remember white leds usually take more voltage than red leds to fire up, which is why lights with red leds have a reputation as being good battery vampires.
The efficiency of the boost converter needed to boost the single cell battery voltage sufficient to run a led is the most significant factor in a good battery vampire. I have an idea that some boost converters use more current to run themselves than others do, and at low light levels this can be more current than they actually supply to the led.
ZL has a reputation as having some of the best boost converters around, which is why they get such good results from their x51xx series of AA lights.
I'm not that up on the techo side myself, but my understanding is that Vf (forward voltage) is the voltage that a particular LED needs to light up properly. From what I remember white leds usually take more voltage than red leds to fire up, which is why lights with red leds have a reputation as being good battery vampires.
The efficiency of the boost converter needed to boost the single cell battery voltage sufficient to run a led is the most significant factor in a good battery vampire. I have an idea that some boost converters use more current to run themselves than others do, and at low light levels this can be more current than they actually supply to the led.
ZL has a reputation as having some of the best boost converters around, which is why they get such good results from their x51xx series of AA lights.
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Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
That's probably it. The Luxeon Rebel used in the ZebraLight "c" models, for example, has a typical Vf of 3.0 V at 350 mA, a minimum of 2.55 V, and a maximum of 3.99 V, which is a pretty wide range, I think. The Vf range for the CREE XP-G used in the other models isn't given in the data sheet, but the typical voltages are identical, so it's quite possible for one particular LED, regardless of whether it's an XP-G or Rebel, to have a meaningfully lower Vf than another. LEDs will vary in overall output efficiency as well, but not as much as they do in the minimum voltage required to get any light out of them at all, apparently.
Even more WOW!oo: Or maybe the boost circuit in the CMG is not nearly as efficient as we had suspected.
That's a possibility with regard to the red LED. For comparison, the usual Vf range for these is 1.6-2.0 V versus the 2.55-3.99 V range given for the Rebel LXM3-PW51 LED used in your H51Fc. If your red LED's Vf is 2.0 and your white LED's Vf is 2.55, for example, then the superior efficiency of the H51Fc can make up the difference, although the red LED is still inherently easier to light up. I was already somewhat surprised that your H51Fc lit up at all, but being able to run on Medium even for a moment is even more impressive. :twothumbs
As pointed out above, red LEDs are still easier to light up, although the difference is not quite as pronounced as I had initially believed (on the average, yes, but not at the adjacent extremes).
That's probably it. The Luxeon Rebel used in the ZebraLight "c" models, for example, has a typical Vf of 3.0 V at 350 mA, a minimum of 2.55 V, and a maximum of 3.99 V, which is a pretty wide range, I think. The Vf range for the CREE XP-G used in the other models isn't given in the data sheet, but the typical voltages are identical, so it's quite possible for one particular LED, regardless of whether it's an XP-G or Rebel, to have a meaningfully lower Vf than another. LEDs will vary in overall output efficiency as well, but not as much as they do in the minimum voltage required to get any light out of them at all, apparently.
Even more WOW!
oo: Or maybe the boost circuit in the CMG is not nearly as efficient as we had suspected.That's a possibility with regard to the red LED. For comparison, the usual Vf range for these is 1.6-2.0 V versus the 2.55-3.99 V range given for the Rebel LXM3-PW51 LED used in your H51Fc. If your red LED's Vf is 2.0 and your white LED's Vf is 2.55, for example, then the superior efficiency of the H51Fc can make up the difference, although the red LED is still inherently easier to light up. I was already somewhat surprised that your H51Fc lit up at all, but being able to run on Medium even for a moment is even more impressive. :twothumbs
As pointed out above, red LEDs are still easier to light up, although the difference is not quite as pronounced as I had initially believed (on the average, yes, but not at the adjacent extremes).
StarHalo
Flashaholic
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
to synersol --
One additional question, if you please . . . .
Are you *connected* to the Seller/Manufacturer ? ? ?
I notice yer' CPF Username is suspiciously similar to the Maker of those devices.
Oh, by the way -- Welcome to CandlePowerForums !
:welcome:
_
to synersol --
One additional question, if you please . . . .
Are you *connected* to the Seller/Manufacturer ? ? ?
I notice yer' CPF Username is suspiciously similar to the Maker of those devices.
Oh, by the way -- Welcome to CandlePowerForums !
:welcome:
_
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
Light sticks are use quite often in the construction industry e.g. when concrete companies have a major pour at a project (like the one I was on) thats a mile an a half from the paved road. They'd use then by the dozens to mark the way into and out of the project. These pours would start at 22/23:00 thru 06/08:00.
So it would be a use to hang one on someone you're trying to keep tabs on in zero to low light conditions.
Light sticks are use quite often in the construction industry e.g. when concrete companies have a major pour at a project (like the one I was on) thats a mile an a half from the paved road. They'd use then by the dozens to mark the way into and out of the project. These pours would start at 22/23:00 thru 06/08:00.
So it would be a use to hang one on someone you're trying to keep tabs on in zero to low light conditions.
I think you are looking at the wrong priorities here. In a SAR situation your priority are:
- Your own safety: ATEX certified lights, so you will not blow your self up near flamable gasses.
- Lights should be dependable. Crush, water, dustproof. (IP 8 or higher)
- Lights should have a bright colour, to ease finding.
- Lights should not roll away, when putting it down.
- Lights should be big enough and have large buttons/switches so it can be used with gloves.
- Light batteries should be standarized with your supply chain. (AA, C, D's)
Lights that comply with these standards are usually the Peli, UK, etc style lights.
Other things to be aware of: Do not stick a light in your mouth! Use a Headlight or angle light on you clothing.
Remeber you said you want SAR light. So don't think like a flashoholic. Think practical. You don't need multiple settings from fancy lights. Stop playing with light settings when search, you got beter things to do. Don't get 18650 cells if you every want to depend on supplychain. Keywords are Simple, rugged and practical.
All you need on a person are:
- A good headlight/angle light, depening on your clothing/helmet setup.
- Large handheld flashlight for bright purposes.
- Smaller flashlight for close up work.
- Your own safety: ATEX certified lights, so you will not blow your self up near flamable gasses.
- Lights should be dependable. Crush, water, dustproof. (IP 8 or higher)
- Lights should have a bright colour, to ease finding.
- Lights should not roll away, when putting it down.
- Lights should be big enough and have large buttons/switches so it can be used with gloves.
- Light batteries should be standarized with your supply chain. (AA, C, D's)
Lights that comply with these standards are usually the Peli, UK, etc style lights.
Other things to be aware of: Do not stick a light in your mouth! Use a Headlight or angle light on you clothing.
Remeber you said you want SAR light. So don't think like a flashoholic. Think practical. You don't need multiple settings from fancy lights. Stop playing with light settings when search, you got beter things to do. Don't get 18650 cells if you every want to depend on supplychain. Keywords are Simple, rugged and practical.
All you need on a person are:
- A good headlight/angle light, depening on your clothing/helmet setup.
- Large handheld flashlight for bright purposes.
- Smaller flashlight for close up work.
DM51
Flashaholic
@ synersol: 4 of your posts (one here, the others elsewhere) have been deleted.
Shill posts are not acceptable. You need to read the CPF/CPFMP Advertising Policies if you wish to continue posting here.
Shill posts are not acceptable. You need to read the CPF/CPFMP Advertising Policies if you wish to continue posting here.
Sorry about this, I was just providing information relative to the discussion. You define Shill in the following manner "For the purposes of this policy, a "shill" is defined as "a person who poses as a customer in order to decoy others into participating and/or one who publicizes or praises something or someone for reasons of self-interest or personal profit,".
1. I never posed as a customer, I just suggested a new product that I happen to use, manufacture, sell and developed. I did not write the case study or paid anyone to do the case study that was mentioned in the response. The case study was from an unrelated third party and the link was not a link to my website. I only posted to contribute new information that may be of interest to the folks who have participated in this topic.
2. Please specify what I wrote that was not acceptable so that I do not make the same mistake or cause the same misunderstanding again. I would be happy to state I am the "inventor/manufacture" before any post if this would help.
3. I look forward to continue to be part of this forum. I have found it informative.
1. I never posed as a customer, I just suggested a new product that I happen to use, manufacture, sell and developed. I did not write the case study or paid anyone to do the case study that was mentioned in the response. The case study was from an unrelated third party and the link was not a link to my website. I only posted to contribute new information that may be of interest to the folks who have participated in this topic.
2. Please specify what I wrote that was not acceptable so that I do not make the same mistake or cause the same misunderstanding again. I would be happy to state I am the "inventor/manufacture" before any post if this would help.
3. I look forward to continue to be part of this forum. I have found it informative.
DM51
Flashaholic
Your connection with the manufacturer was unclear - see Burgess's post #72 above.
You made 8 posts, 4 of which I deleted; they were unsolicited promotional posts, advertising a particular product. It didn't matter at that stage whether you were the manufacturer or someone acting for him; both of these methods of advertising are prohibited by Rule 6.
Your other four posts were left, as they were made in response to specific enquiries by other members; you were therefore given the benefit of the doubt on these.
You have now clarified your connection with the company you were promoting; that is fine, but before you proceed with any further posts here, you need to read the CPF/CPFMP Advertising Policies, as I mentioned above.
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
Basically replace chemical lights and use for any number of different signalling purposes, including low light illumination. Folks are using them for a bunch of outdoor activities from hunting to diving. A really cool article on their sporting applications can be found at the Yakangler website (make sure to scroll down and read the comments). Here is the link:http://www.yakangler.com/articles/news/new-products/other/item/496-e/t-lights . Let me know if you would like to know how SWAT and the military are utilizing them.
Basically replace chemical lights and use for any number of different signalling purposes, including low light illumination. Folks are using them for a bunch of outdoor activities from hunting to diving. A really cool article on their sporting applications can be found at the Yakangler website (make sure to scroll down and read the comments). Here is the link:http://www.yakangler.com/articles/news/new-products/other/item/496-e/t-lights . Let me know if you would like to know how SWAT and the military are utilizing them.
Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F
Hello AZPops, the use you suggested is one of many uses they could be used for and thanks for the input. They transition from one task to another very easily and are very durable. The military is actually using them as friend or foe identifiers as one of the applications. Turns out these do not wash out your NVG's like other IR beacons in the market.
Hello AZPops, the use you suggested is one of many uses they could be used for and thanks for the input. They transition from one task to another very easily and are very durable. The military is actually using them as friend or foe identifiers as one of the applications. Turns out these do not wash out your NVG's like other IR beacons in the market.
