1000 lumen HDS

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Fireclaw18

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Unfortunately, for an edc light I cannot get excited about any of that. The most advanced edc light around is the HDS.

And that's fine.

What flashlight you enjoy is a personal choice. If you love your HDS then all the power to you.

It's just like cars. Bob Car Owner absolutely loves his 1970 Mercedes. He feels it is the best thing ever and nothing has ever been more advanced. Other people might believe Bob Car Owner to be wrong. After all, new features have appeared on the market since he got his 1970 Mercedes. Things like anti-lock brakes, automatic traction control and airbags.

But Bob Car Owner is happy and he really loves his car. And for Bob, that's really what matters.
 

Fireclaw18

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What people seek in an EDC light varies by individual need and preferences. When shopping for an EDC, I typically look for the following:

- small and light enough to be carried loose in pants pocket with my keys. Not so heavy that I'll feel it bouncing on my leg.
- as small and light as possible for the output. I don't like lights that are huge but produce very little output. Feels very inefficient.
- efficient use of size. I prefer lights that make very efficient use of their internal volume. A light whose internal volume is mostly battery is a good thing.
- capable of high output. I use this all the time. Most of my flashlight use is for brief periods of illumination at max possible output.
- usually I prefer a floody beam profile
- neutral color temp (4000-5000K)
- Tint below black body line
- high CRI
- comfortable for pocket carry - minimal or no crenelations. Won't turn on in pocket accidentally.
- Good UI with instant access to min, max and off.
- good aesthetics when off. Flashlights are pocket toys for me and I want one that looks good.
- moddable.
- cost. This can be a more important factor than many here give it credit for. A cheaper light means more budget is available to buy other lights. It also means if the light is accidentally damaged or lost there is less at risk. HDS lights may be durable, but they're not any more resistant to accidentally getting lost than any other light.

Very often, the lights I get don't meet all of the criteria out of the box. But that's where modding comes in. I'm quite comfortable swapping emitters, drivers and switches and flashing different firmware onto drivers. I've also done more ambitious mods such as converting single LED lights into triples, making external aesthetic or functional changes, and installing side switches on lights that didn't previously have them.

I also know that knew better lights are always around the corner, and each year I will buy a bunch of lights. I don't ever buy a light with the expectation that I will be using it alone for the next 5 or 10 years. I like my lights to be on the cutting edge, which means constant upgrades to keep up with advancing tech.

I typically take good care of my lights and they rarely ever get damaged or dropped. As such, durability is decidedly not a criteria I shop for. It just needs to be good enough.

HDS fails a number of the criteria I look for in a light
.

- big and heavy
- extremely low output compared to its size
- dated technology. Definitely not state of the art.
- nothing special aesthetics wise (no titanium, etc.)
- very expensive.
 

RCS1300

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Don't make the mistake of confusing different with more advanced. Simply because new items are available and different does not make them more advanced. Pick one edc light that:

1. you can custom program that also uses both primary and lithium ion batteries, and
2. you can program that can switch from preset programming to pure momentary on the fly, and
3. keeps the light output constant from the time you put in a new battery until the time the battery cannot supply enough power for the selected setting, and
4. that allows you to program the light to step down the power from maximum lumens at 40 seconds to extend battery time, and
5. that comes with two dozen preset brightness levels plus strobes and SOS that can be custom programmed to the owners needs, and
6. comes with potted electronics, and
7. has springs in the battery compartment at both the positive and negative terminals, and
8. has a programmable automatic power shut-off, and
9. has a programmable locator flash, and
10. can be programmed in the field without the use of a computer, and
11. possesses a outer design that is both tactile and shaped in a way that is easy to grip with two fingers on the draw without taking time for thought or hand manipulation.
 

wacbzz

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Concerning the vaunted lumens/post count graph that seems to pop up when a CPF poster is trying to push the "all-you-need-is-x(low level)-lumens," count me for sure as a "deviation" away from that. Has there ever been a greater myth supported by such a vocal minority here on CPF? :laughing:

And as as far as "more lumens, more LEDs, more choices" being something "foreign" to HDS, one need not go any further than the HDS subforum where a gaggle of posters thanked Hogo for bringing EXACTLY that to HDS lights; more LEDs, and more choices.

This is a silly thread...
 

Fireclaw18

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Don't make the mistake of confusing different with more advanced. Simply because new items are available and different does not make them more advanced. Pick one edc light that:

1. you can custom program that also uses both primary and lithium ion batteries, and
2. you can program that can switch from preset programming to pure momentary on the fly, and
3. keeps the light output constant from the time you put in a new battery until the time the battery cannot supply enough power for the selected setting, and
4. that allows you to program the light to step down the power from maximum lumens at 40 seconds to extend battery time, and
5. that comes with two dozen preset brightness levels plus strobes and SOS that can be custom programmed to the owners needs, and
6. comes with potted electronics, and
7. has springs in the battery compartment at both the positive and negative terminals, and
8. has a programmable automatic power shut-off, and
9. has a programmable locator flash, and
10. can be programmed in the field without the use of a computer, and
11. possesses a outer design that is both tactile and shaped in a way that is easy to grip with two fingers on the draw without taking time for thought or hand manipulation.
Toykeeper's Anduril firmware does much of what you listed. Comparing the Fireflies E07 with Anduril to your list:
1. no - li-ion only
2. yes
3. no. Output is constant on regulated modes, but not on FET modes. However, the regulated modes are still higher output than a 300 lumen HDS.
4. no. Timed stepdowns are considered obsolete by most manufacturers. Nowadays, most lights use dynamic stepdowns with a temperature sensor.
5. 150 brightness levels with either stepped or stepless dimming. You could program preset levels, but it wouldn't be easy.
6. no. Electronics are not potted. Still, potting electronics is not hard. I don't pot mine because I like being able to access them to mod them. But it would be simple enough to do slathering on some Arctic Alumina epoxy on top of the driver board.
7. yes. Lots of lights feature springs at both ends. And unlike the HDS, the E07 uses better Be-CU low-resistance springs.
8. yes. Anduril comes with an auto-shotoff mode that can be programmed easily without a computer.
9. yes. E07 comes with aux LEDs that can be set to locator flash mode without a computer.
10. depends. Most of the functions mimicing what the HDS does you can program in the field without a computer. However, the source code is free so if you have a computer you can modify the firmware more.
11. outer design is a matter of personal preference. Lots of lights have designs that make them easy to draw and use out in the field. HDS is in no way unique.

The E07 is a bigger class of light than an HDS so it's not quite a fair comparison. (E07 with 21700 installed is around 170g, compared to 102g for rotary with CR123).

But on the upside, when comparting the E07 to the HDS, the E07 has 27x the max lumen output and uses a battery holding 7x as much capacity.

That's a colossal difference in output! and while the E07 is bigger, it is still a lot more convenient (and cheaper) than carrying around 27 HDS duct-taped together for when you really need the power of 8 car-headlights in your pocket.
 
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archimedes

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Concerning the vaunted lumens/post count graph that seems to pop up when a CPF poster is trying to push the "all-you-need-is-x(low level)-lumens," count me for sure as a "deviation" away from that. Has there ever been a greater myth supported by such a vocal minority here on CPF? :laughing:
....

Although I thought it might have been clear from the context, "my" graph was not in fact intended as a scientifically accurate rendition of statistically significant data at a p-value < 0.05.

Was trying to make a larger point ... ok, with a bit of humor, yes.
 

bykfixer

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Was the graph not conceived when hot wire bulbs were still king and LED's were those new fangled gizmos that eeked out a mere 100 or so lumens?

To me the graph illustrates a typical flashoholic who arrives looking for lights that can cause sunburn but as time goes on ends up being satisfied with an EDC (or 200) that puts out much less light than what they sought at first.

I remember when I first arrived my max cost was stuck at $35. It crept up to $50. One day I acquired my first SureFire. After that the $100 line was crossed with an MD2 hi/lo. Never have crossed the $200 line, which is the reason an HDS doesn't go where I go.

Levis jeans and Vans slip ons are pretty dated. But both are still pretty popular. Same goes with HDS lights.
 
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StarHalo

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1. As a Zebralight guy, it's never occurred to me to compare it to HDS lights; apples and oranges.
2. Everyone's comparing Zebralights to HDS because they want a 1000+ lumen rotary light.
3. There's no need to make it political, everyone just calm down and have Alex make you a drink:

VgsK6Cw.jpg
 

Fireclaw18

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The new rrt-01 is rated at 900. Just saying...

Great light.

I replaced the emitter in 2019 RRT-01 with an Oslon white flat. Now its around 400 lumens and 30k lux. I like the lux, but the low lumens and bright narrow hotspot aren't good for close-up. Thinking I may swap the emitter again. Haven't decided what to though. Maybe a neutral tint XPL HI.
 

bigburly912

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1. As a Zebralight guy, it's never occurred to me to compare it to HDS lights; apples and oranges.
2. Everyone's comparing Zebralights to HDS because they want a 1000+ lumen rotary light.
3. There's no need to make it political, everyone just calm down and have Alex make you a drink:

VgsK6Cw.jpg

Does she make a good whiskey sour?
 

Tejasandre

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Great light.

I replaced the emitter in 2019 RRT-01 with an Oslon white flat. Now its around 400 lumens and 30k lux. I like the lux, but the low lumens and bright narrow hotspot aren't good for close-up. Thinking I may swap the emitter again. Haven't decided what to though. Maybe a neutral tint XPL HI.

Getting a nb45 in mine.
 

Bullzeyebill

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1. As a Zebralight guy, it's never occurred to me to compare it to HDS lights; apples and oranges.
2. Everyone's comparing Zebralights to HDS because they want a 1000+ lumen rotary light.
3. There's no need to make it political, everyone just calm down and have Alex make you a drink:

VgsK6Cw.jpg
 

Bullzeyebill

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CA
1. As a Zebralight guy, it's never occurred to me to compare it to HDS lights; apples and oranges.
2. Everyone's comparing Zebralights to HDS because they want a 1000+ lumen rotary light.
3. There's no need to make it political, everyone just calm down and have Alex make you a drink:

VgsK6Cw.jpg

What StarHalo said.

Bill
 
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