*2016* ZebraLight SC63 and variants like the SC63w

[ozzie_c_cobblepot]

Personally, I cannot stand neutral tints. They look all washed out to me.

 

[psychbeat]

I wonder if there will be a HiCRI XHP35 version of the H600?
Hopefully in a ~4000K tint ... Nice to have a slightly larger hotspot with these new emitters compared w the XML series.

Also - I can get a bit of rattle in my h600w
DOES NOT bother me.

I hope they keep the ID bored slightly less than the first run of MKIIIs.

 

[scs]

Personally, I cannot stand neutral tints. They look all washed out to me.

It's the low CRI that makes it look washed out.

 

[ozzie_c_cobblepot]

I tried the SC62d at IS when it came out, but didn't like that either. Maybe I'll give hi CRI another try, thanks for the info.

 

[scs]

I'm just a newb, but I hope I don't develop a strong preference for NW or high CRI because it would really limit my choices :-/ So far my SC5w is my only neutral light, though I have a SC53W and Nitecore EC4SW on order.

Then refrain from looking at beamshots of NW or high CRI lights, and definitely don't try out either in person, because you just might fall head over heels in love with them.

 

[scs]

I tried the SC62d at IS when it came out, but didn't like that either. Maybe I'll give hi CRI another try, thanks for the info.

You might prefer cw tint with high cri, if that ever becomes commonplace.

 

[markr6]

I hope they keep the ID bored slightly less than the first run of MKIIIs.

I hope so. My H600w is air tight! I get that "POP!" when removing the battery.

 

[psychbeat]

I hope so. My H600w is air tight! I get that "POP!" when removing the battery.

Mines been quite waterproof but yeah I'm usually using raw cells -occasionally one or two with an extra wrapper (those PFs tend to have brittle wraps).
The double wraps don't rattle - & I have to shake the others or tap it hard to hear it.

Seems like the ID on the new models should be more like one of the bored Oveready SureFires etc.

I'm still amazed the 12v boost driver is so efficient with these - definitely unique & innovative!

I'm guessing Cree is going to be producing more 12v multi chips in the future with better bins & CRI.

 

[Tachead]

I'm just a newb, but I hope I don't develop a strong preference for NW or high CRI because it would really limit my choices :-/ So far my SC5w is my only neutral light, though I have a SC53W and Nitecore EC4SW on order.

I hate to say it but, you likely will. They render colours so much better/more accurately and look more like natural sunlight. Low CRI cool white makes everything look bland and grey, kinda eerie if you will. High CRI neutral white also cuts through dust, rain, and fog better and causes less glare. CW may be a bit brighter, that's why they are so common(marketed to give higher lumen counts for the lumen race) but, neutral white high CRI emitters are better in pretty much every way.

 

[Tachead]

Personally, I cannot stand neutral tints. They look all washed out to me.

You may need your eyes checked then lol. I respect personal preferences but from a technical/factual standpoint NW Hi CRI emitters render colours more accurately, cause less glare, penetrate rain, dust and fog better and are much closer to natural sunlight. Really, the only downside is the slight lumen penalty.

 

[Tachead]

I hope a high CRI NW version with the XHP35 emitter comes out throughout the ZL line as well. I also hope they go back to the old tail cap design like on the H600 MKIII's.

 

[lampeDépêche]

Low CRI cool white makes everything look bland and grey, kinda eerie if you will.

Exactly. I also feel like they do something weird to my depth perception--that grey-blue color flattens everything out. It's like it's covered in a slightly metallic glaze.

I don't know if there's any science to this, but it sure looks that way to me. When I look at a scene with a cool white emitter, it all looks flat. When I look with a neutral (esp. a hi CRI), it gets its depth back again. Things that are closer have shadows behind them. Objects with texture have their texture once again.

You won't notice this until you try with both lights in your hand, and a complex visual scene in front of you. After that, you will suddenly stop caring about the extra 10% lumen difference.

 

[Tachead]

Exactly. I also feel like they do something weird to my depth perception--that grey-blue color flattens everything out. It's like it's covered in a slightly metallic glaze.

I don't know if there's any science to this, but it sure looks that way to me. When I look at a scene with a cool white emitter, it all looks flat. When I look with a neutral (esp. a hi CRI), it gets its depth back again. Things that are closer have shadows behind them. Objects with texture have their texture once again.

You won't notice this until you try with both lights in your hand, and a complex visual scene in front of you. After that, you will suddenly stop caring about the extra 10% lumen difference.

I think it may be caused partially by the increased glare/reflection inherent to them. They really do kind of steal the life out of everything. I havent bought a CW light in a long time and dont plan to again. It is frustrating though because some lights never come out in anything but CW and if you like the features your only choice is to mod one or miss out on it. At least the market seems to be slowly changing over. More and more lights are available in NW with higher CRI ratings every year. I think one day CW will be in the minority or maybe even completely phased out. Or, there will be hi CRI cool white emitters released like someone else mentioned.

That's one of the great things about Zebralight, lots of emitter options including many in NW and NW hi CRI:thumbsup:

On that note... come on ZL, bring us some hand picked 90+ CRI NW XHP35 powered lights:rock:

 

[SG Hall]

Does a dedomed emitter automatically mean I higher CRI than domed or just a shift to a more neutral tint?

 

[KeepingItLight]

Some CPF members and moderators have suggested that battery talk is beginning to go in circles on the regular threads for the new SC600 Mk. III and SC63. I started a new thread so the conversation can continue. Let's take all the battery discussion over there.

Here is the link: ZebraLight's new 12-volt models require an **Unprotected Battery**

 

[nbp]

Thank you for doing that KiT; I think that will help a lot with keeping things on topic here. Are you all ok with just leaving this thread as is and restarting the conversation there or do you feel some posts need to be moved? I don't care to sift through 395 posts to do it but if you guys who are very interested in the topic want some moved you could assemble a list of post numbers which would then be easy enough to move. Just let me know if you need help. Thanks for your cooperation and make sure to play nice in your new thread. Haha.

 

[psychbeat]

Does a dedomed emitter automatically mean I higher CRI than domed or just a shift to a more neutral tint?

If it does change the CRI it's probably minimally.
Mainly u just see a yellowish-sometimes green shift.
Also, the tint shift between spot and spill is minimized to almost none.

The Cree hi intensity models have a thin coating that keeps the tint from shifting and I'd assume keeps the tint more uniform spot-to-spill-wise.

I don't have any hi intensity emitters myself but quite a few dedomed reflector and optic based lights.

I like yellowy tints myself more than roses for outdoor use as it helps in the fog and with overall contrast discerning mud from rock from roots etc.

 

[psychbeat]

Some CPF members and moderators have suggested that battery talk is beginning to go in circles on the regular threads for the new SC600 Mk. III and SC63. I started a new thread so the conversation can continue. Let's take all the battery discussion over there.

Here is the link: ZebraLight's new 12-volt models require an **Unprotected Battery**

Thanks for that!

I'll definitely stay away from that can of worms haha

 

[KeepingItLight]

You may need your eyes checked then lol. I respect personal preferences but from a technical/factual standpoint NW Hi CRI emitters render colours more accurately, cause less glare, penetrate rain, dust and fog better and are much closer to natural sunlight. Really, the only downside is the slight lumen penalty.

I know you are only joking! After all, that's what LOL means. Nevertheless, let me toss in my two cents.

My own preference is for neutral tint and high CRI. When another states a different preference, however, saying that they see better under a cool white flashlight, I accept them at their word. The only "fact" that I care about is that they are better at judging how well they see than I am.

 

[Tixx]

Back because I had a thought. Who is able to modify an SC63w by cutting down the tube to accept 18350 cells for me? Will pay the price.