Another WE Eagle 2 has landed, ROP Low installed

[cernobila]

I like my floody incans so I wanted to use my 2x 18650 WE Eagle as my everyday home and garden light. My original conversion used the WA1111 bi-pin lamp, this was a little too bright and only gave just over 30 minutes runtime......I now have some spare ROP Low lamps so I thought that perhaps I could use this bulb instead of the WA1111. I found that it was much easier to do than the original conversion. No need for any tape, washers or bi-pin adaptor.......Just hollow out the original lamp, drill out the hole just big enough to fit the ROP Low lamp through it and you are done. You will need a normal clicky switch to keep the batteries nice and snug against the lamp to keep it in place inside the light.

 

[cernobila]

Updated with photos.....

 

[Glen C]

Cernobila, very simple idea to upgrade the basic unit, thanks for the photos

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Beamshots?

 

[Patriot]

Perfect fit in there...looks great. So....run-time with the ROP lo should be, close to 45 minutes right? Have you run-timed it yet?

Although we've seen many ROP beamshots, I also like to see this one in conjunction with that particular reflector.

 

[cernobila]

Perfect fit in there...looks great. So....run-time with the ROP lo should be, close to 45 minutes right? Have you run-timed it yet?

Although we've seen many ROP beamshots, I also like to see this one in conjunction with that particular reflector.

About run time, I rarely go all the way before topping up, but according to numbers from LuxLuthor's data, at 7.2V the measured amps for the ROP Low are 1.9A and the measured amps for the WA1111 are 3.8A. So, the run time depends on how you do your calculation.

The beam description is the same as in the sample in my sig line (2x 18650 with WA1111 lamp) except that it is not as bright. 805 predicted lumens for WA1111 against 549 predicted lumens for the ROP Low. (curtesy LuxLuthor)

 

[RichS]

About run time, I rarely go all the way before topping up, but according to numbers from LuxLuthor's data, at 7.2V the measured amps for the ROP Low are 1.9A and the measured amps for the WA1111 are 3.8A. So, the run time depends on how you do your calculation.

The beam description is the same as in the sample in my sig line (2x 18650 with WA1111 lamp) except that it is not as bright. 805 predicted lumens for WA1111 against 549 predicted lumens for the ROP Low. (curtesy LuxLuthor)

cernobila - I would like to do this same mod, but in an Eagle 3 with 2 18500s. Do you know if this would work with the ROP low?

 

[cernobila]

cernobila - I would like to do this same mod, but in an Eagle 3 with 2 18500s. Do you know if this would work with the ROP low?

I just used two 18500 cells and a CR123 dummy cell in my light and it works. However because there is no spring to keep things in place the depth of the cell relative to the switch is quite important and it should look something like this..........



If the cell is either too low or too high inside the light then you will not have a proper contact to make it work.

 

[RichS]

I just used two 18500 cells and a CR123 dummy cell in my light and it works. However because there is no spring to keep things in place the depth of the cell relative to the switch is quite important and it should look something like this..........



If the cell is either too low or too high inside the light then you will not have a proper contact to make it work.

Great, thanks for testing that! I think I'm going to order the body only of an Eagle-3 to do this mod. I really like the form factor of this version. I think if the batteries aren't perfectly in place as shown, I can do some sort of a tailcap mod to apply the needed pressure.

I have the rattlesnake as well, but I am looking for a much floodier light, and this looks to fit the bill. Would you say this is quite a bit floodier than your Rattlesnake?

 

[cernobila]

Great, thanks for testing that! I think I'm going to order the body only of an Eagle-3 to do this mod. I really like the form factor of this version. I think if the batteries aren't perfectly in place as shown, I can do some sort of a tailcap mod to apply the needed pressure.

I have the rattlesnake as well, but I am looking for a much floodier light, and this looks to fit the bill. Would you say this is quite a bit floodier than your Rattlesnake?

Just remember not too much pressure or you will crush the lamp. One option if the cells sit too deep is to make a "filler" between the two cells made out of a CR123 dummy cell by cutting it down to the ideal length...

 

[RichS]

Just remember not too much pressure or you will crush the lamp. One option if the cells sit too deep is to make a "filler" between the two cells made out of a CR123 dummy cell by cutting it down to the ideal length...

Thanks again for the info. One more question: I have the rattlesnake as well, but I am looking for a much floodier light, and this looks to fit the bill. Would you say this is quite a bit floodier than your Rattlesnake? I want to make sure I don't already have something very similar before doing this build.

 

[cernobila]

Thanks again for the info. One more question: I have the rattlesnake as well, but I am looking for a much floodier light, and this looks to fit the bill. Would you say this is quite a bit floodier than your Rattlesnake? I want to make sure I don't already have something very similar before doing this build.

If you look at my sig line you will be able to compare the type of beam pattern of the Eagle with WA1111 compared to the Rattlesnake. The ROP Low is not as bright as the WA1111 but the beam pattern is the same.