Best AA Bikelight?

[RedForest UK]

Right, the question is in the title.. I'm looking for a new light for the front bars on my mountain bike, my only specs are that it has to be AA powered, under or around £60/$100. (although less $ if it can't be bought in the UK and i will have to pay postage and import duty :thumbsdow)
Also, i'm using a twofish lockblock as a mount and will be going off road a lot, so i'd definately want a light that won't bounce about and wobble like the TK20 im using at the moment seems to..
Everyone on this forum seems to know their stuff about flashlights, so any and all opinions and ideas are welcome. :thumbsup:

 

[mcnair55]

Well apart from all the dealers on here also take a look in the members selling section you may snag a real bargain plus as you are in the UK some right good bargains if you look in the right places.

I have a cracking light on my bike running on 2 AA cells bought it at Arco the safety wear place and it was on clearance at less than £20 in the recent open day they had.

 

[TONY M]

It's hard to say exactly what is the best AA light for cycling but there are several good 2xAA offerings that are well worth considering within your budget.

The Quark 2xAA Turbo at $75, or the regular Quark 2xAA R5 at $15 less.

For a 6xAA MCE you may want to take a look at the ITP A6 Polestar at $80. I have never seen one in person but it seems like a decent poor mans alternative to the excellent, though expensive TK40 that a friend of mine uses a a bikelight.

Some of the Fenix lights are also not too bad and if you can pick up a 2nd hand L2D Q5 (which had notably good runtime) at a good price than you may be on to a winner.

Whatever you go for be sure to get good NIMH batteries.

I have been hit by ridiculous customs taxes a few times and it is not very nice... but you may be lucky and get away with it.

 

[RedForest UK]

Thanks, i checked out the arco website, but the best torches they seemed to have were the LED lensers, which although better than most of the stuff you find in outdoor/diy stores in the UK, i'm not a big fan of..

I had looked at the TK40 and the A6 Polestar (sounds like some sort of stripper doesn't it!) but they are both just too big for what im looking for rlly, and the Polestar didnt get that much good feedback on its build quality, which is quite important for me going down bumpy off-road tracks at night..
The Quark AA2 XP-G was one i was considering, but after looking at reviews i was wondering if the current Eagletac P20a2 w/R2 might actually still have the edge on it for lumens to runtime, which is the most important thing i'm looking for really. I'm just not sure whether its worth waiting for the new XP-G's and just how much better efficiency/light quality they will be offering. :thinking:

 

[amigafan2003]

IMO 2xAA lights are too big for offroad biking - my Quark AA2 and Romisen RC-N3 certainly are - the length promotes the wobble that you are trying to avoid.

For this reason I'm using a couple of 18650 lights (MG L-Mini II and MG PLI) for my mtb set up.

Not the answer you probably wanted to hear but imo 2xaa lights are too big and single AA light aren't bright enough and neither to they have decent run times - they just can't compare with 18650 lights.

 

[DM51]

We have a dedicated sub-forum for Bicycle Lights. I'll move your thread there.

 

[BentHeadTX]

Red,

I've used 2AA LED lights on my helmet mount since 2002 and have a few thoughts. For mountain biking, it is best to have a helmet light so you can see were you are looking and mount a light on the bars so it can be angled farther down the trail.

I use a Quark Turbo AA2 with the XP-G R5 LED and that puppy can throw a beam way out there. The spill is very good and just using it for road use is great.

For off-road, I throw the AA2 on the bars with the Fenix mount and o-rings to prevent the light from wiggling. On the helmet is the Fenix L2D Q5 since it has a longer runtime than the Turbo and the slightly wider beam works better when aimed just behind the hot spot of the Turbo.

The XP-G R5 series punches out a ton of light but needs a larger reflector due to the die increased size. I am thinking a regular Quark AA2 on the helmet might work best, it has a broader beam to see everything on the trail and you can angle it to throw the wider beam behind the farther throwing, narrower spot of the Turbo.

With that said, I am waiting to see what Fenix and EagleTac have for this year with the XP-Gs. I prefer to have the helmet light give a longer runtime so when the Turbo starts to dim (runtime about 70 to 75 minutes) I know the helmet light will give me at least 15 to 30 minutes longer runtime. I'll take it as a warning and put the output from max to high or medium depending how far I have left on the streets or trails.

 

[LeifUK]

You can buy the Fenix light mount at Deal Extreme for about £6 including shipping rather than £10 from UK shops. I expect you will need a spanner to tighten the mount if you use the bike off road. It should be more secure than the Fishblock.

I use a Fenix L2D for running, and I have a Quark 2AA on order. The latter is about 50% brighter. Fenix specify LED lumens, whereas 4Sevens give the out the front value. I've noticed that when running with the Fenix, cars tend to stop or slow down significantly. I think they are puzzled more than anything.

I guess choice of light depends strongly on required run time, and output. You can save a bit by going for a 1 or two mode light i.e ~£35 rather than ~£45.

 

[defloyd77]

For offroad use, I'd suggest ditching the lockblock and going for a dedicated bike light. One that comes to mind is the Planet Bike Blaze 2w http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126178314&TID=367

 

[GlobalPlayer]

hello,

front bars: BM IXON IQ (bike light with 4xAA) and MG PLI (1x18650)
Helmet: Fenix LD20 (2xAA)
that's what I prefer for the moment

 

[John N]

I don't know about best, but Dinotte has a nice 200L 4AA powered light:

200L

-john

 

[rickdog81]

What about a road headlight for city riding on my commuter bike? I was thinking something under $50 that has at least 2 -3 modes so that I don't **** off drivers but can still light up really dark areas of my ride. More flood than throw. Basically a light that is similar to a car headlight but for a bike.

I am 100% new to this whole LED flashlight thread. I found this site through bike forums. Seems a lot of bike forums riders are using the P7 lights from DX. Is that the best option now because some of those threads go back to 2008.

thank you

 

[BrianMc]

rickdog81: Check this thread if you haven't already.

Budgets are budgets, but if you can free up a bit more cash, lights are not a place to be your most miserly. But times aren't great so you may have to do what you have to do...

 

[rickdog81]

I checked out that thread. The first half was info that is from 2008 so it may not give the best recommendation. The second half didn't have relevant info either. I guess I can rephrase my question into what is a good handheld LED flashlight that I can mount on my bike? What should I be looking for to get something closer to a flood rather than a far throw?

 

[markus_i]

Under $50, LEDs, AA, removable?

The problem is that you won't find something that's designed as a flashlight with a decent beam profile for on-road riding. Multiple levels won't help you that much either, the problem is that you'll have to flip the beam down simultaneously (or instead). The financial restraint pretty much excludes a generator light (you'll get a useable hub generator for that amount, but not the generator + light). You might try looking for a b&m Ixon IQ (http://www.bumm.de/docu/192q-e.htm), with a bit of luck you could find one (maybe used) at that price.

Otherwise, use a DX WF-606A (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14909) and matching lockblock

Bye
Markus

 

[BrianMc]

IMHO lights are a matter of personal taste tied to safety especially for a commuter. This may keep people from making recommendations.

Marcus gave you a nice repsonse.

Back to your flood versus throw question. To me it translates to when, where, and how fast.

The recreational rider even putting in the same hours or more than a commuter on a bike, can pick the time of day and routes when/where traffic is not as difficult. So they might get away with a lot less light. You have to ride when and to some extent where you have to ride, bad traffic or no.

If you are riding under street lights, the amount of light you need to see and be seen is less. However because you can get lost in other lights and drivers can be inattentive especially if they are running late, many commuters use far more light (plus reflective clothing/tape) to stand out. This is a personal comfort issue based on experience with their riding situation and sense of vulnerability.

As long as you are not blinding oncoming drivers, more is better. More costs more, though. The whole visibility thing is also a matter of the rider's mental comfort and experience and this thread may be a good read for you. There is no 'bible', no explicit set of rules, you will have to find your own answer, but others' solutions can be a lot of help in making a choice.

My impression is that either most commuters do not use small flashlights, or they don't post glowing accounts where I have read. Marcus's post may be the answer to that.

Speed affects how far you need to see. Street lights of course, affect that, too. My experience with a temporary 10 degree 3 watt LED beam with some spill is that it was OK under street lights, but inadequate on the unlit suburban streets and rural roads especially above 20 mph. This is about half the light of the Romisen you asked about. IMHO the 10 degree angle beam was a good compromise on flood/throw and of getting a bright patch, being seen, but not blinding drivers with it (one level only. aimed down).

Then there are the issues of runtime, back up batteries, and a backup light. I use a much inferior flashlight to the Romisen to stumble home on, But I would have something at least as good as the Romisen for emergency backup if I was regularly commuting in heavy traffic.

Well, this is MUCH longer than intended. The diversity of lights people use and have used says this is not simple and why bike light systems exist.

 

[noisebeam]

I am both a commuter (30min route) and recreational fast night rides (3hr)

I used to use a 10W HID light, it worked fine.

I then got a L2D-q5 and ditched the HID. It has a narrower but brighter beam, but still just right. I only use the Turbo mode in the dark. I like the flash mode for dusk or poor weather. For longer night rides I either change the batteries half way thru ride or use lower modes and only switch to Turbo for the darkest or heavy traffic sections.

But the L2D broke as I dropped it. I got an LD20-q5 to replace. I sent it back as the beam is slightly narrower and hotter with a dark ring around the hot spot - Turbo also had a somewhat shorter life.

Now I am looking for a replacement for the L2D-q5 - I would be very happy with another one, but like to consider my options.

 

[BentHeadTX]

I won a EagleTac P20A2 so I have a new bike light!

The EagleTac wins as a bike light because it puts out 230 lumens out the front (300 at the LED) and will do it for 90 minutes on new Eneloop 2000mAH NiMH or, as tested with my year old 1895mAH cells; 1 hour and 19 minutes. This beats the 4sevens AA2 run time with the same batteries by 14 minutes (AA2 - 1 hour 5 minutes)

The Turbo AA2 will out throw the ET P20A2 but not by much. The EagleTac gives a slightly wider hot spot with brighter spill than the Turbo so it works better for biking. The new EagleTac has the new Cree XP-G R5 but it is pushed a little harder than the Quark lights but it does not allow for 3.6V lithium-ion use. This would explain why the EagleTac has a longer run time AND puts out more lumens, it runs a more efficient boost only current regulator.

My Turbo AA2 will become an "AA1" with a Quark single AA body and used as a helmet light. This will cut the weight about 38 grams so it will be lighter than the L2D Q5 while having slightly better throw. The big reflector on the Turbo although receiving less lumens (140 at the LED instead of 180 like the L2D Q5) the Turbo will out throw the Fenix with a smaller and slightly more intense hot spot.

The P20A2 also has a "bike friendly" UI. It can be set up for max/strobe with head tightened and loosen the head for a low mode to get you home. Think of a Fenix L2D but without SOS and a bunch of low/medium/high modes with a loosened head.

When the Cree 208 lumen per watt LEDs appear (end of the year maybe?) you can remove the "pill" inside the P20A2 and upgrade it with the latest pill, no need to replace the entire light. It is also available with an orange peel reflector if you want more spill and less throw, always nice to have options.

So my bike lights for this season is a ET P20A2 on my recumbent bike frame to really light up the street and a 4sevens Turbo "AA1" as a spot helmet light. All hail the new XP-G!

 

[noisebeam]

I am surprised you prefer a narrower beam and longer throw for cycling. Maybe for long straight roads, but most of my night riding is on winding hilly roads where spill helps a lot more than throw. My speeds are typically 22-28mph on the flats and the lights are bar mount.

I find the L2D-q5 to be just barely wide enough. I find 180 lumens to be just enough and want as much run time as possible - 2hr ideal which I just about get with Sanyo 2700.

I would be very happy with higher lumens, but not with sacrifice to run time or beam width. Too bad the next lower brightness after the highest modes on the lights that are well over 180 are not 180 or so, it seems the >200 lumen lights in highest mode have a next brightest mode sub 100 which is not bright enough.

 

[BentHeadTX]

I am surprised you prefer a narrower beam and longer throw for cycling. Maybe for long straight roads, but most of my night riding is on winding hilly roads where spill helps a lot more than throw. My speeds are typically 22-28mph on the flats and the lights are bar mount.

I find the L2D-q5 to be just barely wide enough. I find 180 lumens to be just enough and want as much run time as possible - 2hr ideal which I just about get with Sanyo 2700.

I would be very happy with higher lumens, but not with sacrifice to run time or beam width. Too bad the next lower brightness after the highest modes on the lights that are well over 180 are not 180 or so, it seems the >200 lumen lights in highest mode have a next brightest mode sub 100 which is not bright enough.

At night, I generally ride at around 18 MPH as my racing days are behind me. Spool the recumbent up to 18 MPH and get some miles in be it commuting or spinning the odometer. Some days the only way to get miles in is during the cool of the night.

I use two lights, one on the helmet and one mounted lower under the boom of my short wheelbase recumbent. The lower position makes the spill brighter since it is closer to the ground. My helmet light is great to see what I'm looking at, a narrow beam works great for that. Since the 4 ounce weight of the L2D Q5 was about max my neck could deal with, I prefer mounting a light of that weight or lighter if possible. The Turbo AA2 is a great spot light! Alas, it is too heavy but even running on a single AA will slightly out throw a Fenix L2D Q5 due to the large reflector. Style wise, it also looks much better as a short light on the helmet.

A single L2D Q5 at over 20 MPH would be rather dicey. Two of them is much better as that was what I normally ran. Mountain biking at night I would put two L2D Q5's on the bars and one on my helmet to hit the twisting single track without killing myself. The double wide spot of the two bar lights worked well with the L2D on my helmet for that. Sure, I would prefer about three SST-90 LEDs throwing 5,000 lumens but...

For me and my use (and needs) the 90 minute run time of the P20A2 mounted low on my recumbent works out well at 18 MPH. I can hit 25 MPH on the down hills without over driving the light. The Turbo AA2 besides putting out 10% less total light will out throw the P20A2 but the beam is too narrow to be used by itself. I much prefer the wider beam of the smaller headed ET light over the Turbo as a frame light. The Turbo when equipped with a single AA works out well for a spot light on the helmet, very useful in curves to see what you are looking at as the frame light will "lag".

Oh yeah, I run TWO lights! Once the turbo starts to go dim, I know I have 15 minutes to pull over, change out the batteries or just go home. If any of the lights start to dim, I change them to a lower power mode, slow down and roll home.

I keep 4 spare Eneloops in my bike rack bag with 4 spare lithium E2 batteries just in case. Planning on doing a cross-state ride this summer and my helmet light will run an E2 to cut weight while allowing me to switch it on if it rains during the day so vehicles can see me.

Generally speaking, when I was commuting there were illuminated street lights. The L2D Q5 was "good enough" to light up the dark sections between the lights so all was well. Now that I live in the dark back country in the hills, having 60% more lumens from my frame light works out well.

A 4sevens S1200 would be a great frame mount light! If I had one of those I would think about running the "Turbo AA1" with a 14500 lithium-ion to get full power in a light-weight package. You would not have any problems with a 1200 lumen (at the LED) monster SST-90 LED in a smallish head...think of how wide that beam is going to be.

If you cruise at 25 MPH (40 KPH) all bets are off on my end. I roll slower but my 36 pound fully suspended recumbent sure is comfortable. For me, my dual helmet/frame light system works well and I'm happy with the upgrade from the 180 LED lumen L2D Q5 to the 300 lumen P20A2 running on 2AA Eneloops.