Best Malkoff drop-in for a CQB weapon light?

Justin Case

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If you want to run on just one Li-ion, you need to get an M30, which currently is in shorter supply than the M60. I have one and it works well, but make sure you don't get confused and load the flashlight with two Li-ions by force of habit. You risk frying the M30.
 

smg

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The angle is only reduced very very little when it is flipped up, not of any practical importance
I meant, when the head is flipped down, in flood mode, is the overall width of the beam reduced, because of the ring which protrudes in front of the light?
 
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NoFair

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The angle is only reduced very very little when it is flipped up, not of any practical importancequote]
I meant, when the head is flipped down, in flood mode, is the overall width of the beam reduced, because of the ring which protrudes in front of the light?

When it is flipped down it is reduced a bit more, but since it is diffused it only really matters at very close range. The light is pretty well spread out after a couple of meters.

Daylight here at the moment, but it shown pretty well in the pictures of the Gladius with FM34 in one of my links. The M60 will be about twice as bright as well.
 

Justin Case

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smg,

I am not saying a narrower, non-flood is better. I am saying a flood generally is beneficial only in theory. Plus, you can always use a beam diffuser to get a flood effect, while still having the capability for non-flood. But a dedicated flood beam can't go in reverse.

Your ROE is flawed, which leads you to a flawed conclusion that anything out of place is a threat. You never have visitors, overnight guests, etc?

But then you clarify your ROE by saying that the thing that is out of place isn't a threat -- it's just something that appears not to belong (if I may paraphrase) and that you still need to positively ID the out-of-place thing before use of deadly force is justified. Correct. That's wise.

Well, human vision is only 20-20 in a narrow central field. And you will need that 20-20 vision to confirm the threat. Basically, for anything outside of that central field you will have to move your visual focus to that location. Thus, a flood is only useful for providing enough illumination to see such side objects. But the side spill from a non-flood can also do this. In either case, then you move your visual focus.

Having to move the light for a non-flood doesn't consume any more time since moving the light and the visual focus are parallel actions.

I seriously doubt you can accurately process the contents of a large room in 1/10 sec, especially under stress when you may have some degree of tunnel focus. So again, having a flood is only of theoretical benefit.

Pieing doesn't require that you see a large volume. In fact, just the opposite. You see small slices at a time. So having a flood is unnecessary. Seeing large slices means that large volumes also can see you. A fast clear simply means that you do things faster. But the techniques are the same. You still pie. Now the speed of a fast pie realistically means that your pie slices will probably be larger than for a slow pie, but it is highly doubtful IMO that you will overrun the volume that a regular flashlight beam can light up.

If you are at the fatal funnel and trying to clear a room beyond, you had better do it by pieing, slow or fast, and not simply blasting into the room. This isn't a dynamic entry with a four or five man team, where surprise is on your side and you have teammates to cover specific sectors (especially the deep corners). You don't have half the room to your back. You have half the room (or more) in front of you, but you haven't cleared it before entering, certainly not by a brief flash of light for a 30x14 room. You apparently are trying to clear a 30x14 volume at once while a potential threat only has to check the small volume represented by the entry point to the room. Which do you think will be a faster OODA loop? The point isn't that a non-flood flashlight is better for this purpose. The point is that a flood doesn't have any advantage over a non-flood because you don't need to illuminate everything at once.

And if it is just you and no one else living in this dwelling, what is your hurry to clear your path? You have only the rest of your life to solve the problem. Why do you even need to do any clearing? Just get behind hard cover with your rifle, get on the phone, and call the cops. All you need to do is watch the fatal funnel. And you don't need a flood light for that.

Your answers lead me to believe that you need training ASAP. This is not a slam or a derogatory remark. But I think it would be wise to just borrow a weaponlight and get some good low light training before having so many pre-conceived notions about solo clearing. Then you can decide for yourself what kind of beam you prefer. If it is a flood, more power to you. But too many students go into class buying all sorts of irrelevant gear based on theories or advice with little or no basis in fact or experience. Get the facts, take the classes, then buy your gear.

Who have you trained with?
 

Justin Case

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I meant, when the head is flipped down, in flood mode, is the overall width of the beam reduced, because of the ring which protrudes in front of the light?

Again, this isn't with the current FM34 SureFire beam diffuser, but with their old F?? diffuser. The beam width when I put my F?? diffuser on a 6P anti-roll bezel with my Malkoff M30 but leave the diffuser lens open is virtually identical with the beam width without the diffuser installed.

When I close the diffuser lens, the resulting beam is very much like a SureFire L4, but brighter overall (but similar max lux value for the beam center).

If I check a mirror, the diffused beam clearly has less intensity vs the undiffused beam, but it still is effectively blinding at 15 feet.

So basically, I would say that without a beam diffuser, you get your standard Malkoff M30/M60 beam (high quality, good balance between throw and flood). With a beam diffuser, you get a beam like a SureFire L4, but brighter.
 
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beavo451

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Wow....

All I can say is to each his own......


My opinion: I prefer a flood type beam. I've searched dozens of buildings and rooms of all kinds. The Malkoff P7 that I got is a god send.
 

Owen

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M60W with FM34 sounds good for indoor use, with the option of longer range use outside. That's what I'd put on a weaponlight, personally.

The WLF, is actually a touch brighter than the M60W through the FM34, which puts out an even wider, more diffused beam(and obviously more total light). Either is plenty for dark adapted eyes indoors. I actually like the M60W/FM34 combination so much that I tend to use it the most around the house, while the M60WLF is now in my EDC light, and the M60WF in my work light.
 

bigchelis

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How about a Malkoff P7 if you can get one? I just received one to supplement a M60 + C2 for duty use. Very bright, super floody beam. So far it has helped eliminate some tunnel visioning I get from using the M60 and its relatively small hotspot. The P7 is like a L4 on steroids!


Gene just emailed me last night saying he is no longer going to make P60 P7 drop-ins. He will only make the MC-E now.

I had 2 of those P7's for my 6P and 3P parts and the brightness was just insane. More usefull indoors due to it being 100% flood.
 

Mikellen

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Does anyone know if a Surefire FM34 diffuser will fit on a Malkoff MD2 flashlight?
If so then my choice between a M60W and M60WF will be made easier. M60W combo with FM34 and I'll have two beam patterns.

Thanks.
 

Bullzeyebill

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Justin Case, you have the F24 beamshaper, the wide Beamshaper. I had the F24, but lost it, and now have the narrower F23 Beamshaper. I prefer the F to the FM, which is really bulky. Getting difficult to find the F series.

Bill
 
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