BVH
Flashaholic
Jetskimark and LarryK did their Blitz mods before I did. I just wanted to share my method of mounting the HID bulb into an unmodified body. New stuff below
Purchased two hi-temp plastic bushings from McMasterCarr and had to grind down the outer diameter of the inner bushing by about .080" Everything is a light press fit for Lip's 100 Watt bulb. Just remove the metal flange.
The focusing system is simply screwing in or out the reflector ***'y on the threaded end of the light body. There's a detent arm on the body that drops into many linear groves on the reflector housing base to maintain focus once set. There's probably a good 5/8" of focus travel. available. More than enough to cover any difference in new style bulb chamber (read filament) location. In my system, the center of the HID bulb chamber ended up about 1/32" further out as compared to the Halogen bulb. Just had to screw up the reflector by about 1/8 of a turn.
Now the battery & ballast box is another story. Used a Radio Shake plastic project box. Not too happy with it. Needs some work. It's heavy with the 100 Watt (83 to the bulb) ballast and the 6.4 AH Li-Poly battery.
Original on/off function is maintained.
OK, here's the full mod pictorial.
I wanted to not have to unscrew the box top every time the battery needed charging so I found a polarity keyed, two terminal quick connect/disconnect with locking nut to charge through. These wires hook to the charging wires of the Li-Po pack - not the discharge wires. I don't know for sure, but I am pretty sure I can't run the light with a power source using this same cord. Not gonna try.
The finished light without charging cord weighs 5 lbs, 15.5 oz - under 6 lbs!
The components. The wrench-looking thing is a strengthener for the thin, metal box top. Too much flex without it.
The charging cords
The ballast and battery are held in with velcro so easily removable. Thanks to LarryK for this idea
The rocker switch toggles between 35 Watt and 100 watt (input power)
I had to change out the high Voltage wire connectors from
typical Beldon spades to 30 Amp Anderson quick connect/
disconnects. The Beldon connectors don't fit tight enough
together to prevent initial arcing and a no-start.
My Schulze charger and Mastec 30V-50Amp Power Supply at work!
Beamshots tonight if the weather holds. I'll compare at 100 watts with my Barn Burner and with some 30/35 Watt lights on 35 watt setting.
Purchased two hi-temp plastic bushings from McMasterCarr and had to grind down the outer diameter of the inner bushing by about .080" Everything is a light press fit for Lip's 100 Watt bulb. Just remove the metal flange.
The focusing system is simply screwing in or out the reflector ***'y on the threaded end of the light body. There's a detent arm on the body that drops into many linear groves on the reflector housing base to maintain focus once set. There's probably a good 5/8" of focus travel. available. More than enough to cover any difference in new style bulb chamber (read filament) location. In my system, the center of the HID bulb chamber ended up about 1/32" further out as compared to the Halogen bulb. Just had to screw up the reflector by about 1/8 of a turn.
Now the battery & ballast box is another story. Used a Radio Shake plastic project box. Not too happy with it. Needs some work. It's heavy with the 100 Watt (83 to the bulb) ballast and the 6.4 AH Li-Poly battery.
Original on/off function is maintained.
OK, here's the full mod pictorial.
I wanted to not have to unscrew the box top every time the battery needed charging so I found a polarity keyed, two terminal quick connect/disconnect with locking nut to charge through. These wires hook to the charging wires of the Li-Po pack - not the discharge wires. I don't know for sure, but I am pretty sure I can't run the light with a power source using this same cord. Not gonna try.
The finished light without charging cord weighs 5 lbs, 15.5 oz - under 6 lbs!
The components. The wrench-looking thing is a strengthener for the thin, metal box top. Too much flex without it.
The charging cords
The ballast and battery are held in with velcro so easily removable. Thanks to LarryK for this idea
The rocker switch toggles between 35 Watt and 100 watt (input power)
I had to change out the high Voltage wire connectors from
typical Beldon spades to 30 Amp Anderson quick connect/
disconnects. The Beldon connectors don't fit tight enough
together to prevent initial arcing and a no-start.
My Schulze charger and Mastec 30V-50Amp Power Supply at work!
Beamshots tonight if the weather holds. I'll compare at 100 watts with my Barn Burner and with some 30/35 Watt lights on 35 watt setting.
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