Can a resistor be added in a E2e...
- Thread starter Mikeg23
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
angelofwar
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hmmm...not sure...I just know I use the MN02...25'ish lumens for 2.5 hours.
Chrontius
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes. They were sold for a few years as the McE2s for Executive bodies, and the McC2s for Classic bodies. (McExecutive2Stage, to expand the name; Don McLeish, one of our own major inventors, manufacturer of awesome titanium products, and collaborator on many projects including the new Malkoff Hound Dog named it by adapting the name of its sister product, the McClicky switch)
I have no idea if underdriving the bulb would shorten the life due to problems with the halogen cycle, but normally such a thing would lead to slower tungsten loss from the filament and longer life... in non-halogen bulbs.
Battery life would increase, for the resistance drops the current drawn by the bulb according to voltage drop across the resistor. The entire thing will be significantly dimmer, as incans get geometrically less efficient as you underdrive them further.
I have no idea if underdriving the bulb would shorten the life due to problems with the halogen cycle, but normally such a thing would lead to slower tungsten loss from the filament and longer life... in non-halogen bulbs.
Battery life would increase, for the resistance drops the current drawn by the bulb according to voltage drop across the resistor. The entire thing will be significantly dimmer, as incans get geometrically less efficient as you underdrive them further.
Yea I like the MN02 bulb, but I'm actually running a strion bulb and I love it. I'm wondering if I can run a TL3 bulb and get it as dim as the strion or MN03
savumaki
Enlightened
I have an e which I tried a two stage tail cap on (its for an L4 I was having modded) and found the low stage barely turned the filament on!
I found this out when I tried the switch and found it apparently did not work so rather than turn it further I left it at the point where it had turned off and set it aside; several days later I went to use it and found the bat was flat.
New bat later I tried it again and found when the hi level turned off you could still see a glow from the filament- lesson learned, turn it more.
I suppose with a lower resistor in the cap it might work.
I found this out when I tried the switch and found it apparently did not work so rather than turn it further I left it at the point where it had turned off and set it aside; several days later I went to use it and found the bat was flat.
New bat later I tried it again and found when the hi level turned off you could still see a glow from the filament- lesson learned, turn it more.
I suppose with a lower resistor in the cap it might work.
Illum
Flashaholic
unlike LEDs, incandescent lamps require a specific temperature to operate correctly [see halogen cycle here], creating that temperature is in the design of the lamp as well as wattage requirements. Putting a resistor in as a linear limiter wastes heat, non-linear dimming, and lamp life may suffer
Battery life would certainly increase, but its likely the filament in the lamp will slowly boil off and deposit on the globe until the halogen gases are heated to their service temperature, which could be difficult depending on the resistor you decide to use
Battery life would certainly increase, but its likely the filament in the lamp will slowly boil off and deposit on the globe until the halogen gases are heated to their service temperature, which could be difficult depending on the resistor you decide to use
unlike LEDs, incandescent lamps require a specific temperature to operate correctly [see halogen cycle here], creating that temperature is in the design of the lamp as well as wattage requirements. Putting a resistor in as a linear limiter wastes heat, non-linear dimming, and lamp life may suffer
Battery life would certainly increase, but its likely the filament in the lamp will slowly boil off and deposit on the globe until the halogen gases are heated to their service temperature, which could be difficult depending on the resistor you decide to use
Thank you I didn't figure it would be good but didn't know why and figured it would be better to ask then just destroying a bunch of bulbs. I may still try it with a very low resistor.
Illum
Flashaholic
If you are still inclined for such a mod, an easy way would be to bum a potentiometer. Connect the lamps then slowly dial it down from full until you find the difference in output you are looking for. Once you found the intensity you are looking for, measure the resistance you've dialed to and buy the nearest value on the lower end
Filip
Newly Enlightened
Hi,
Lightsaver Miser tailcap may be an option for you (see a review here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=177185).
By the way, there are 2 types of Lightsaver tailcaps - a Miser (enables three levels of brightness--100%, 50% and 25% and 2 flash speeds) and a Strober (adds strobing function only), both in black and olive green. See description here: http://www.brigadeqm.com/store/qsearch/search.aspx?query=lightsaver
Versions for C type lights (6P, 9P, C2, etc.) exist, too.
It's even possible to replace the guts of Lighsaver E2 tailcaps with a customized (= needs longer spring) AW Softstart switch. It's not cheap but softstart feature and ability to handle high current bulbs (IMR-E2) are sweet.
Hope this helps.
Filip
Lightsaver Miser tailcap may be an option for you (see a review here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=177185).
By the way, there are 2 types of Lightsaver tailcaps - a Miser (enables three levels of brightness--100%, 50% and 25% and 2 flash speeds) and a Strober (adds strobing function only), both in black and olive green. See description here: http://www.brigadeqm.com/store/qsearch/search.aspx?query=lightsaver
Versions for C type lights (6P, 9P, C2, etc.) exist, too.
It's even possible to replace the guts of Lighsaver E2 tailcaps with a customized (= needs longer spring) AW Softstart switch. It's not cheap but softstart feature and ability to handle high current bulbs (IMR-E2) are sweet.
Hope this helps.
Filip
Similar threads
