Hound Dog 18650 XT V2

[thermal guy]

V1 does have more throw than V2 at least what I'm seeing but no the tint is NOT nice at all. It works great outdoors where it was meant to work but don't ever point it at a white wall 😂😂

 

[F89]

Good to know that I'm not missing out in the tint department too.

I was getting the idea that the V1 tint (Osram) would be nicer based on the Osram tint in my Surefire TIR lights.

The low setting is a bit flakey on mine, probably from the slop in the threads. I cleaned the contacts with some isopropyl alcohol but it didn't change. Not a huge deal so far.

Yep, the proof's in the pudding. Still waiting to use mine.
Observation and criticism so far, I don't hate it. I expect I'll actually quite like it.
Still keep thinking a Wildcat with the filter removed or even M61HOT would have been nicer. I was going for more throw than less though.

 

[F89]

I've worked in the high/low switch after some playing with the light some more.

I was getting an ultra low sometimes and general flakyness.
It will flick from low to high rapidly if shaking the light if loosened a little or even more. This won't happen in use so I'm not concerned about it.
The ultra low seems to be well gone now. Almost had three modes 😀

 

[thermal guy]

Oh no we got another malkoff problem here?😂😂

 

[F89]

Nothing I can't handle 😀

 

[Monocrom]

Oh no we got another malkoff problem here?😂😂

Has anyone tried directly PMing Gene on CPF. (Gene43)

 

[thermal guy]

Has anyone tried directly PMing Gene on CPF. (Gene43)

Naaa he wouldn't know 😂😂

 

[F89]

To clarify the low situation on mine:
It's caused by the play in the threads which allows a bit of wobble if not tightened right up.
If I hold my finger in line with one of the scallops on the base of the head when it's tight and loosen it half way towards the next scallop and shake the light (a swinging proper shake) it will flick between low and high.
If I loosen it a whole position to the next scallop (notch, whatever you want to call it) it won't flick low to high (loosened off enough for the wiggle not to make high contact).

In use I'll likely be only loosening a little to go low but unless I'm shaking my light around for some reason (which will never happen), I'll never have this happen.

While I'd like the thread fitment to be tighter like my old Hound Dog, there's no problem as such here. Unless you consider the weirdo with a flashlight obsession that's wielding the thing.

 

[thermal guy]

A new O-ring might help.

 

[F89]

I thought of that but the o-ring is as new. I've tried three bodies just to test also (including new and old style MD4 and the old style MD2 it's living on).

I might be making it sound worse than it is. Most people may not have even noticed?

 

[F89]

I've had a bit of time with the light outside. Didn't do a lot with it but it was dark and I got to shine it around and get an idea of how it performs.

I quite like the beam on it, none of the aspects of the beam seen on a white wall are an issue in real use which was to be expected.
A good mix of throw, output, and surrounding spill.

The low mode is good, a nice level for general use without needing to go to high unless required. Sometimes with only two modes, low can be too modest creating an all or nothing choice with mode selection.

I've come to terms with the tint on low, not really an issue in use, and on high the tint is pretty white.

The biggest issue for me in the end was the slop in the head when on low, this also contributed to the low setting being a bit flaky and the head being a bit wobbly.
My solution to this was some plumbers tape. It worked an absolute treat and has improved the feel and operation of the light by a big margin.
While I'd like it to have the same fitment and action of my old Hound Dog, having to use plumbers tape on the new one doesn't really bother me (and I can be anal about small details). It'd bother me if it didn't work so well but considering it worked great, and it'll likely be a good while before the tape needs replacing, it's a good result for me.

One interesting point (for me anyway) is that with my old Hound Dog if I loosen the head to low then keep loosening until the pin loses contact and it shuts off, the output is steady. There's a very definite and consistent performance of the output.
On my new one if I repeat the same process the low output flickers a bit like a candle as I'm rotating the head. After installing the tape this effect was reduced but is still present.

I'll get a good chance to get some use with this light later this week.
I'm really liking it so far, much more so after installing the plumbers tape as odd as it might sound.

 

[NH Lumens]

The heavier yellow Teflon tape (used for gas piping) works the best. I remove the O-ring and thoroughly clean the threads with rubbing alcohol then apply the tape pulling it tightly, two passes is about right. Use a utility knife to remove the tape in the O-ring groove otherwise the head will be way too tight and difficult to turn if tape is left under the O-ring. A new #119 O-ring is highly recommended.

I have also found that I can only remove the head once (maybe twice) before the tape gets dislodged and has to be re-wrapped. But it's an easy process and with a bit of experimentation, excellent results can be achieved. As long as the head is not removed, the fix lasts a long time.

In terms of the flicker, you may want to try cleaning the face where the pin contacts the body. A bit of polishing of that surface can't hurt either.

 

[F89]

Thanks for your input.

I'm using a brand new head and like new older style (with knurling) MD2. I've cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol and even though it wasn't needed, I polished the aluminium contact surface lightly on cloth held tightly to a board with some gentle polishing compound.

Every now and then I was getting a moonlight low or full low that was unstable and with a bit of flicker. I also had the low flickering like a candle on low if I kept rotating the head towards off.

The flaky low operation seems to have gone now, and the candle like flickering while continuing to rotate towards off is very minimal now.
My only thought is that the mechanical action of the spring loaded pin and resistor has worn in a bit more?

I usually have white or blue plumbers tape handy, I've currently been using white. I'm not sure what the difference between the two is, but the white stuff I'm currently using is very thin.
Initially I used a length that I folded length wise (a bit fiddly but can be done) so it's slightly less wider than the threads. I wrapped twice under mild pressure (four wraps worth as it's folded over).
This worked great initially, started out a bit tight but worked in perfectly. I kept taking the head off to see how it was handling and noticed it was wearing fast but not migrating into the o-ring of contact area which was good.
Everything had been cleaned and lubricated before applying the tape.
I wrapped again using a longer laterally folded piece of tape and did about six wraps, twelve wraps worth of thickness. I cut the tape after completing the last full wrap rather than pull it tight and snap it off.
This application has settled in great and looks fine even after a bit of use and quite a few head removals.

I'll be sticking with the tape application with this light, it's working for me.
It's interesting, to me anyway, that others have been using tape on their lights.

Now that I've got my long story about plumbers tape out of the way, I took the light to the beach this evening. It was pretty hazy but I got to stretch its legs a bit.

I like the beam, even at reasonably short range there's still plenty of size to the spot and I find there's a good amount of spill for general surroundings.
Given more range and the spot is able to light up large areas with quite a bit of light.
There's no tunnel vision with this light, within consideration of being a thrower. A nice large spot with plenty of spill.

 

[knucklegary]

It is really a shame Malkoff doesn't switch to Acme threads. It would eliminate all the wobble issues

 

[Alaskantinbender]

Having to tape threads and fiddle around to make it work is a little ridiculous after spending almost $300 for a light.

 

[knucklegary]

I've actually used the wobble, from high to low, on purpose, to my advantage.
But yeah, the loose fitting threads is something that Gene should have addressed long ago

 

[thermal guy]

if you have every used an elzetta that's how it is as well. You can use the tail cap on low and if you get it just right push a little harder for high. That being said I've never had this issue with a malkoff.

 

[F89]

I'm getting too much inconsistency with the low mode, been really flaky tonight. I'll contact the Malkoff's.

 

[NH Lumens]

One last check - make sure the high/low switch is not loose, it needs to be fully tightened.

 

[F89]

I thought it was potted into place on the Hound Dog?