Is there an epoxy that will bond pvc and stainless steel?

[lightime]

Guys,

I am going to be making a couple exterior led flood lights out of some stainless steel tubing/sheets I have around. I need an epoxy that will bond to stainless steel and the pvc jacket on some cable that I have (to try and make them water tight). Basically I need to use the epoxy on the holes where the cable comes out of the light to seal them.

Anyone know of an epoxy that will bond to both of these materials? I tried a Permatex general purpose 5 min epoxy and it bonded to the stainless but totally let go of the pvc jacket on the cable

Thanks in advance!!

 

[PhotonFanatic]

Send a question off to the Henkel folks--they are quite helpful and respond quickly with their suggestion.

 

[65535]

For something like that you'll want something more flexible if you don't get grommets (ace carries them) at least use silicone adhesive to seal the hole. 100% silicone is the good stuff. It'll hold tight to the cable and the SS and keep water out.

 

[lightime]

Thanks guys...yeah after doing a bit more research I'm thinking that perhaps I should not even use epoxy. I think that's exactly what happened, as soon as I moved the cable it broke the bond because the dried epoxy is too rigid. What about something like GOOP? is there a high temp version of this?

 

[smokinbasser]

I know of one such epoxy! Belzona, but your going to probably need to get a group buy together to acquire some, it aint cheap by anyones standards. It has been used to repair the crankshaft bearing surfaces on a locomotive diesel engine. I used it on hydraulic lift cylinders to patch gouges in hard chromed tubes/rods.

 

[PEU]

In the same price range as Belzona you also have MMP products, I happen to know the local distributor and used their Flamenco product (link) to seal Aluminium to Concrete, worked awesome!
Its like silicone but water soluble, you can apply it with a painting brush.

To keep things simple, as 65535 suggested, I would use an outdoors silicone seal, 3M marine grade for example.


Pablo

 

[precisionworks]

you'll want something more flexible

+1

For outdoor use, there will be expansion & contraction at different rates for the different materials. The adhesive has to have enough give to move as the materials move.

that will bond to both of these materials?

Only three choices - Lexel, Lexel or Lexel

http://www.sashcosealants.com/Home_Improvement/Lexel.aspx

Good up to 200ºF, sticks to everything but water, never fully hardens, grips like death, and doesn't cost a fortune. Available at Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware, online, etc., for under $10.

Good stuff. I've lost count of how many dozen tubes I've used in outdoor applications. Never a joint failure yet.

 

[65535]

I've seen that Lexel before and never tried it, I'll have to check it out.

 

[precisionworks]

The only caution on Lexel is that you never want to get it on your hands or clothing - nitrile gloves are a necessity. It combines a rubber based (aka latex) sealant with silicone sealant, and exhibits some properties of both.

Thanks for the lead on Belzona, smokinbasser. I just place a call to their tech services to see if they have an immersion sealant, food safe, that can be used in stainless steel process tanks ... it looks like they may be able to help.

 

[Dan FO]

JB Weld? http://www.jbweld.net/products/index.php

 

[saabluster]

JB Weld? http://www.jbweld.net/products/index.php

Definitely not JB.

 

[darkzero]

Definitely not JB.

Yup, definitelty not JB Weld, too hard & brittle under impact. Polyurethane adhesive should work but I don't think they withstand high temperatures.

 

[Burgess]

This thread should be made a STICKEY !





(sorry, couldn't help myself)

_

 

[Armed_Forces]

Relying on fancy schmancy goop of any kind is totally flawed thinking based on what I've made of your description.


In my opinion all you need is a simple mechanical fastener with a compressible gasket that provides water resistance and strain relief.
These are very common and come in several flavors depending on what type and size of wire you are dealing with.

Example 1

Example 2

Example 3


Simply drill a hole and add a couple rubber washers between the jam nuts and your SS sheet metal. Clean and professional.

 

[Torque1st]

Use a cordgrip, they come in many sizes and styles.

Wire and cable often have a surface contaminated with silicone mold release type products. Sometimes sanding the surface of the cable or wire will remove the material.

 

[Oznog]

Both Goop (or E6000, same mfg) and silicone will take high temps, and should adequately seal a tube.

Both are somewhat susceptible to UV damage. E6000 has a UV-resistant grade, which you want. Black silicone can take a lot of UV. E6000/Goop can be painted, but silicone generally cannot. If you find you've goofed and left a gap, you can always add more E6000/Goop but once silicone is completely, 100% cured successive layers may not stick well to it.

Either one will stay flexible in the cold.

Also, I mean epoxy's a liquid and will just gonna flow outta your hole unless you add some major Cab-o-Sil to thicken it. Silicone might be better than E6000 on this front because it's thicker.

E6000 specifically says it works with PVC.

The epoxy may have a hard time staying stuck, even with a good initial bond, because PVC has a wicked high Coefficient of Thermal Expansion, making it want to expand or contract and tear off the epoxy which doesn't stretch with it.

 

[lightime]

Thanks again for all the replies and ideas guys. Much appreciated. I think like many of you have suggested I need to stay away from anything that gets too rigid. I think I will actually try the goop and/or the lexel and see what happens.

I'd love to use the cord grips but I am very limited on space so I will need to "stick" to some type of sealant.

 

[65535]

A recommendation for the cord. The adhesive isn't strong enough to prevent it being pulled out, so tie a knot in the cord inside the housing then glue. That way it won't pull out or damage the glue joint.