M3, M6, or?

[jumpstat]

M3 or M6? This is a toughie......
On one side its cheaper to buy, not much lumens and on the other hand much more lumens but not cheap to run.....This was my dilemma. I really like the M6 for its size, turbo head and output/ pattern. Where I live, SF123 can be found but they are not cheap. So this was the deciding factor for not getting the M6.
So I chose something in between and ended up with a Z46/MN11/Leef/SW02 (approximately $210)....this combination is bright enough for me and it runs with 2x18650 protected cells for around 45mins. This setup can still be upgarded such as a KT4 turbo head or even a c-lit ion body by leef for maximum runtime..... I will be getting an M6 but I may not be using the light like I am using the Z46/MN11/Leef/SW02 for 'guilt free lumens'

 

[leukos]

I agree that I don't care for D sized lights either, too bulky in the hand. But the two flat sides on the M6 somehow make it easier to hold in my hand as compared to my 2D M*g.

tsl,
I believe that your problem with the orientation of the oval beam from the M3 is superficial. There are two flat sides on the body where the names Surefire, Millenium Series, etc are laser engraved. I have rotated the bulb in my M3 to be lined up with the flat sides for the same reasons you posted. It's a little more effort to line it up than with the A2, but you rarely have to change the bulb.

In my flashlight progression, the C3 used to be my main light before I got the M3. What always bothered me about the C3 was that it just didn't feel natural in the hand. It was probably the clip, but it seemed to do too much having the square body, grip ring, and clip, it just never seemed to feel right in any type of grip. If you want a light for the P90 or P91, I would recomend the G3, I love that light. But I think your first instinct with the M3 is probably what you really want.

 

[tsl]

... the C3/KT2 w. an SW02 switch is about the coolest looking light around to my distinguishing eye.

Do you have a picture of said light?

I believe that your problem with the orientation of the oval beam from the M3 is superficial. There are two flat sides on the body where the names Surefire, Millenium Series, etc are laser engraved. I have rotated the bulb in my M3 to be lined up with the flat sides for the same reasons you posted. It's a little more effort to line it up than with the A2, but you rarely have to change the bulb.

Leukos, thanks for your words. My problem may very well be superficial. Are you able to grab the M3 and orient it properly without looking at it? With a regular grip (fingers curled around the body)? Cigar grip to me would be tricky because the end of the body by the grip ring is round.

 

[tsl]

Does the Z3 and M3 have the same body dimensions (i.e., thickness and length)?

 

[leukos]

Are you able to grab the M3 and orient it properly without looking at it? With a regular grip (fingers curled around the body)? Cigar grip to me would be tricky because the end of the body by the grip ring is round.

I think the next time you handle an M3 you'll see that it is relatively easy to know where the flat parts on the body are. As far as grabbing the light in SF/Rogers grip, you could have the light oriented the way you like it in something like the V71.

You mentioned a Z3 which could be another good option for you if you can find one (they were discontinued). Perhaps another option you might like is a G2Z with a Lumens Factory EO-9 lamp and 2x RCR123. It would be almost the same lumen output as the P91.

 

[kooter]

Why not get an M3, then get a cell extender from Lighthound, and you have an M4 too :thumbsup:

 

[MongoMadness]

If you investigate bumps in the night with a handgun I would go with the M3.

If you only investigate with the power of the photon I would go with the M6.

 

[Size15's]

Does the Z3 and M3 have the same body dimensions (i.e., thickness and length)?

Yes - the body from the TailCap through the CombatGrip (with two spacer rings) to the bezel end is the same dimensionally.

 

[Lightraven]

When it comes to lighting up bad guys, which is what we're talking about, right, I believe in prioritizing brightness and ease of use, from both training and experience. The M6 is significantly brighter than M3 or M4 and is what I use. For people with really small hands who can't reliably operate the M6 switch, an M4 may be a better choice. Though a bit unbalanced, I don't see that as a big problem.

You could look at other bright lights like 10X, Tigerlight or one of those 3 Cree Wolf Eyes lights.

I wouldn't put much thought into other factors. It's easy to get sidetracked. There are so many things that don't matter, when you're holding a weapon and you've got a bad guy in front of you.

 

[tsl]

Some of you have mentioned rechargeable. Would a P91 running off of two 18500s (Wolf Eyes) give me noticeably better performance than a P91 running off of three primaries? Would either the bulb or the cells be worked too hard (my search here says no)?

The whole reason I wasn't thinking "rechargeable" was because I would only use this light occasionally, and I wouldn't want to find that it wouldn't work because the batteries had discharged. If I went with a rechargeable solution, how long a "shelf life" would it have?

 

[Aaron1100us]

Seriously, get which one fits you the best. The M6 isn't any better than the M3. Yes its brighter but the M3 puts out more than enough light even with the MN10 bulb. The M3 is easier to carry and cheaper. I guess what I'm saying is that they are both bright enough so you need to decide on which one fits you the best.

 

[leukos]

I believe Li-ions typically self discharge about 2% a month, which means you might need to recharge them once a year if left unused. They do not store well at freezing temperatures though.

 

[LED61]

I must politely disagree. Actually storage of Li ions in a freezer and 40% charge is the recommended procedure for long storage life.

 

[jumpstat]

I must politely disagree. Actually storage of Li ions in a freezer and 40% charge is the recommended procedure for long storage life.

Yep this is what AW recommend for long term storage...

 

[DM51]

There has been quite a lot of debate about the best temperatures for storing Li-Ion cells.

My own view, with which others may disagree, is that there is little to be gained by storing them in a freezer. Refrigeration (~4°C) is better than room temperature, but freezer temperature (‑20°C) will not give much added benefit IMO.

Extra-low temperatures can cause additional problems. Li-Ion protection circuits seem vulnerable to extreme cold, and the condensation that can occur on thawing them out from frozen has been known to cause corrosion and circuit failure.

 

[LED61]

The thawing process as you point out is something I am always careful with. I choose a very dry and windy day, and store the batteries in an enclosed ziplock. Done in this way one hour thawing time will be sufficient and moisture will be dried out quickly before it can cause damage. As far as the low temperatures causing damage to protection circuits, that is a first for me but you might know better.

 

[socom1970]

Nice avatar

Hey V8!!!

Thanks!! I can't remember where I got it from, but it might have come from you. At any rate, if it did, thanks very much for that!!! I LOVE using it as my avatar. I also have a copy of it colour-photocopied and taped to my locker at work. (People know it's true at work as I have shown off my SF M6, M3, U2, L4, A2, etc. )

Anyway, back to the thread. I said in my previous post to get the M6, but the M3 is also awesome in its own right. It has a very good combination of throw and flood, yet with a decent-size hotspot, due to it having a medium-sized reflector, smaller than the M6, but larger than the P60/P90-based lights. I like the rubber fingergrip very much. It assists with holding on to the M3, no matter how you hold it. Either one will be good, But my vote still goes to the M6.

 

[leukos]

Extra-low temperatures can cause additional problems. Li-Ion protection circuits seem vulnerable to extreme cold, and the condensation that can occur on thawing them out from frozen has been known to cause corrosion and circuit failure.

Yes, that is what I was referring to. Several CPFers have reported dead protected cells from leaving them in gloveboxes/trunks during the winter. See this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=158112

 

[tsl]

I'm still mulling this one over. I do like the idea of being able to use rechargeables at some point with a P91 lamp (for that wall of light), so that means a 2 x 18500 configuration because I don't want the size of a four cell light.

From what I gathered through search here, a G3 or 9P can't be bored out. Is that correct? If it's not, then it'd be my least expensive option.

Next up is the C3, and I've read conflicting views on the feasibility of boring it out. Some have done so; others say that the thickness under the grip ring is not enough to safely bore out.

Next up would be a Leef 2 x 18500 body (looks like he's getting ready to do another run) with SF bezel and tailcap. I've read about some issues with tailcaps working properly because Leef anodizes his threads, but I imagine that's not widespread or we'd have heard a whole lot less praise than we have about his offerings.

Last up would be the M3. Not really sure that I would want to bore that baby out given the price of the light.

I've also thought about the LF EO-9 bulb which I could run with 2 x 17500 and keep the G3, 9P, or C3 completely stock. Run time looks like it would be better than the P91 on primaries. What has been turning me away though from this bulb is that it isn't as floody as the P91. Is there really that much of a difference between a EO-9 on 2 x 17500s and a P91 on primaries in real life? Am I just splitting hairs here?

 

[Monocrom]

No offense, but why bore out a 3-cell Surefire when 2x17500 cells will already fit? I doubt the difference in output is going to be significant enough to warrant boring out the barrel of a Surefire.