OLIGHT M20 WARRIOR SST50 TITANIUM LIMITED EDITION

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

You readings are close to the ones I published in post #143, that was a sweep from 2.6 volt to 9 volt. You also has to be aware that the current depends on the temperature of the led and driver.

HKJ it was your post which prompted me to do the testing when I got the light. I love running on 18650 because of the added runtime but also feel better with 2xRCR123 as it then becomes nicely regulated at a higher brightness.

Based on your testing do you know/think it is PWM or current regulation?

 

[HKJ]

Based on your testing do you know/think it is PWM or current regulation?

Definitely current regulation, I could find no traces of pwm in the light when doing my Danish review.

But the high voltage to reach maximum brightness do surprise me, when the light is cold it is nearly 4.2 volt and it will drop down to about 4 volt when the light warms up.

 

[berry580]

how come there's still no runtime/output graphs so far? Its been 7 pages already.
Anyone who knows better?

thank you in advance.

 

[wow400]

Hi all, how durable is the Ti body - does it scratch / dent easily?

I have a Breitling watch that's made out of Ti & it barely marks but the Olights looks really shiny...

Thanks

Nic

 

[easilyled]

Hi all, how durable is the Ti body - does it scratch / dent easily?

I have a Breitling watch that's made out of Ti & it barely marks but the Olights looks really shiny...

Thanks

Nic

Ti objects can accumulate very superficial surface scratches quite easily, but they are hard to see and can be buffed out with without much effort.

Far preferable to when hard-anodized Al flashlights pick up scratches. They are much more obvious because the coating is a different color from the raw Al and the appearance is permanently spoiled.

Also Ti objects will not dent/distort as much as Al ones when dropped from a height due to being harder and stronger.

 

[recDNA]

how come there's still no runtime/output graphs so far? Its been 7 pages already.
Anyone who knows better?

thank you in advance.

See HKJ's review in Danish and translate into English with Google translate...or just find the graph...no translation needed.

 

[wow400]

Thanks EasilyLED

 

[Henk_Lu]

I just played around with my Titanium, checking how it runs on an 18650. To my surprise, it begins to flicker now and then as soon as the head gets slightly warm...

With 2 x 16340 IMR I can't see any flickering, didn't notice any with 2 x CR123A. I find nothing on CPF about the M20 Titanium flickering, but I know that some quad-die also present that behaviour on an 18650, but not on 2 x RCR123 because of the higher voltage... :shrug:

 

[recDNA]

Has anybody built an SST-50 flashlight with output that even aproaches that of MC-E? SST-50 SHOULD be brighter but none actually ARE????

 

[Henk_Lu]

The Thrunite Catapult announces 900 Lumen and the Olight K50 shall have 1.000 Lumen.

The SST-50 needs some serious heatsinking to be driven to the maximum, as well as more than a single 18650.

What e saw until now are underdriven lights which work in the efficient range, but I keep on wondering if flickering on an 18650 is normal... :candle:

 

[easilyled]

Has anybody built an SST-50 flashlight with output that even aproaches that of MC-E? SST-50 SHOULD be brighter but none actually ARE????

Yes, the Thrunite catapult is on a par with the brightest P7 and MC-E lights and uses an SST-50.

The output depends on how hard the led is driven. ie. current.

I'm not sure why you insist that an SST-50 should be brighter at an equal current level.

I doubt this is always true. It depends largely on which bin SST-50, P7 and MC-E is used and also on the Vfs of the respective leds.

As far as I know, they are all quite comparable with each other.

The main advantage of using an SST-50 is that because its a single-die led, reflector design should be easier
(ie donut/void not so much of an issue)

Another advantage is that, in theory, it can be driven harder than a P7 or an MC-E

 

[turboBB]

Does anyone have #117?

Thx,
Tim

 

[Flashlites R Us]

I just played around with my Titanium, checking how it runs on an 18650. To my surprise, it begins to flicker now and then as soon as the head gets slightly warm...

With 2 x 16340 IMR I can't see any flickering, didn't notice any with 2 x CR123A. I find nothing on CPF about the M20 Titanium flickering, but I know that some quad-die also present that behaviour on an 18650, but not on 2 x RCR123 because of the higher voltage... :shrug:

So does mine. But I notice the faint "now and then" flicker ONLY on high power (on a white wall) and when it does happen the head may be either cool/warm or hot.

It does not seem that head temperatures will cause a flicker.

Anyway this is something that one would only notice if staring intently at a close up "white wall" beam shot for awhile. The only thing that the staring got me was a headache. :sick2:

BTW I use only 18650 protected rechargeables in my light.

 

[Mark Mck]

I just picked up #200 of 500. It is a very nice light in regards to fit and finish and the beam is very nice. It is larger than my Ti Haiku XP-G warm EDC but the leather holster makes carrying the light very comfortable. The UI is very intuitive and I like the settings as they come from the factory. It's my first Olight and I am impressed!:twothumbs

 

[MattK]

Sweet - enjoy!