Open the Nitecore D10

glockboy

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Just for fun.:grin2:

IMG_1623a.jpg
 
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glockboy

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Sorry, it's the D10.(fix)
Just bent the needle and hook the brass thingy out, and needle nose everythings out.
 

darkzero

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Cool! Was waiting for someone to do it. :thumbsup:

Are you willing to pull the module apart to take pictures of the top side of the driver? I posted pictures of the EX-10 driver already & I'd like to compare.
 

cave dave

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Yes, but can you get it back together?

More details on the disassemble please, with pics if possible. I want to get a mild HDS diffuser in there.
 

glockboy

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I already put it back so I can use it, I will open it again and take more picture.

Cool! Was waiting for someone to do it. :thumbsup:

Are you willing to pull the module apart to take pictures of the top side of the driver? I posted pictures of the EX-10 driver already & I'd like to compare.
 

Nake

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Here is how I took mine apart. I used a dental pic to slip under the ID of the brass ring where the split is. Then gently pull up on the ring as you move the pic around the inside of the ring. Once it moves away from the pill you can pull it up completely. Now you can get to the two slots in the pill to unscrew it. I used small pointy scissors. There is a small amount of glue on the threads of the pill, but it didn't require a lot of force to break it loose.
 

cave dave

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Hey, I think I figured it out. The ring with the slot acts as a snap ring right? Once removed will the pill drop out?

No luck here on removing it. I can't seem to compress it and pull at the same time. It is too bad they didn't include holes in the ring for snap ring pliers. That would make it so much easier.
 
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Nake

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Hey, I think I figured it out. The ring with the slot acts as a snap ring right? Once removed will the pill drop out?

It is too bad they didn't include holes in the ring for snap ring pliers. That would make it so much easier.

Sort-of, the bottom side of the ring has a tiny lip that fits over a raised portion of metal on the pill. This is just so it doesn't fall out. The pill screws out.
 

cave dave

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Well I got the snap ring out, but the module was so tight I couldn't get it to screw out and I put lots of torque on it. Had it slip off the tool once.

I added a few scratches to the inside of the head at the threads. Gave up once the tool slipped as I'm not willing to screw up my brand new light. Light still works upon reassemble. Those visible components on the back of the board scare me. Too much chance of popping one off if the tool slips.

This is definitely NOT a piece of cake even if you know the trick.
:candle:
 

WildChild

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I damaged the brass ring trying to remove it... it bent and cracked on the angle... I try to form it back but now the level switching is not reliable anymore...
 

mitch79

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When removing the brass contact ring in my D10 I found that whilst I could lift one end easily with a small jewelers screwdriver, the other end of the ring would get caught in the thread inside the head and refuse to move.
I found by gently lifting one end of the ring then unscrewing the ring it came out easily.

In my D10 S/N 500+ (second batch) the pill was not glued in at all. The reflector does appear to be glued/sealed with a red compound.

Hope that helps :)
 

darkzero

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So a natural follow-up question to this would be to find out who has changed emitters in their D10?

I've done a few EX-10 emitter swaps. The module looks pretty much the same as the D10. It's pretty straight forward, reflow & swap. Or one could swap the entire MCPCB & emitter, it's not epoxied, just has thermal grease under it.
 

Enzo Morocioli

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Well, I searched for this thread, and it gave me the willingness to open up my well abused (for durability purposes) D10.

I happened to have some of McG's high CRI emitters, so I sanded down the aluminum around the emitter until it fit within the D10's pill, slipped a small piece of copper underneath for better heat conductivity, and soldered down the wires... Screwed everything back together, and......

It works!

I set the D10 to low before I did this mod, so when it started up, it did not fry the LED... I have yet to ramp it all the way to full power, since I fear that more than the rated 350ma going to the LED will cook it good and well. But I have ramped it up and down within the lower portion of the linear output a few times, and it works great!

anyway, here's some picts.


emitteroff.jpg


emitteron.jpg


beam1.jpg


beam2.jpg


The beam is actually artifact free, which is wonderful... Has a nice blend of spot and flood, though at a distance the spot is hard to distinguish... Overall, i'm pleased with this mod/creation. We'll see how long the emitter lasts, especially if the D10 jumps to high on accident.. :poof:

EDIT: Upon further, unmeasured testing, the emitter seems to withstand maximum output... I'm too much a scaredycat to keep it burning for longer right now, i want to enjoy it while it works... Though I know my curious ways will lead me down that path soon.
 
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Tekno_Cowboy

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Hmmm...Looks like I may need to toss a Warm White XP-E in my light.

Anyone know how hard the LED is being driven at max?
 
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