Question about SF Z2. What are the options for upgrades and add-ons? Lego parts?

[FliGuyRyan]

So, my Surefire Z2 has the OpticsHQ tail-cap and P60 Q5 drop-in module being used in it right now.

I would like an extension tube to run three RCR123 cells and also some tritium inserts.

Other than those (which I need some advice on those too), what other options are there for lego'ing a Surefire Z2 type light?

Extension tubes, P60 upgrades (MR-E, XR-E, XR-G, SST, etc... ), other tailcaps, customs, tritiums, bezels, lens'... ?

What are the really good options out there? I like the five light levels that the OpticsHQ offers, I could use something brighter though. Maybe more towards the "wall-of-light" than the hotspot. But, would it work with the OpticsHQ tail-cap - probably not, and that's the issue I'm running into.

Options...

Thanks in advance...
-RC

P.S. Is there a way to turn my Z2 into an 18650 light while still using the OpticsHQ setup? I really would like to do this...

 

[FliGuyRyan]

Re: Question about lego'ing... my Z2 needs some lego love. What are ALL my options...

Also... what have you done to yours?

-RC

 

[FliGuyRyan]

Re: Question about lego'ing... my Z2 needs some lego love. What are ALL my options...

Anyone... please... ???

 

[gswitter]

So, my Surefire Z2 has the OpticsHQ tail-cap and P60 Q5 drop-in module being used in it right now.

I would like an extension tube to run three RCR123 cells and also some tritium inserts.

See this thread for the cheap, compatible extension (and tailcap) options. Surefire makes an extension as well (obviously not cheap). Some of the cheap ones can already accommodate 18mm cells. ElectronGuru has sold some Surefire extensions bored for 18mm cells.

You'll get better capacity from two 17500 or 18500 cells than three RCR123's, so unless your really need the extra voltage...

Other than those (which I need some advice on those too), what other options are there for lego'ing a Surefire Z2 type light?

Extension tubes, P60 upgrades (MR-E, XR-E, XR-G, SST, etc... ), other tailcaps, customs, tritiums, bezels, lens'... ?

The possibilities are almost endless. What are your goals for the light?

What are the really good options out there? I like the five light levels that the OpticsHQ offers, I could use something brighter though. Maybe more towards the "wall-of-light" than the hotspot. But, would it work with the OpticsHQ tail-cap - probably not, and that's the issue I'm running into.

For the latest emitters in a P60 drop-in, try Nailbender. He's got a thread in the Custom B/S/T sub-forum describing some of the options he offers.

I'm not really familiar with the OpticsHQ tailcap, so I'll defer the compatibility question to someone else.

P.S. Is there a way to turn my Z2 into an 18650 light while still using the OpticsHQ setup? I really would like to do this...

The body can be bored, and I don't see why it wouldn't work with the OpticsHQ tailcap, unless it has a problem running on 3.7V. A couple member have offered this boring service. Again, check the Custom B/S/T sub-forum.

 

[Justin Case]

So, my Surefire Z2 has the OpticsHQ tail-cap and P60 Q5 drop-in module being used in it right now.

I would like an extension tube to run three RCR123 cells and also some tritium inserts.

Other than those (which I need some advice on those too), what other options are there for lego'ing a Surefire Z2 type light?

Extension tubes, P60 upgrades (MR-E, XR-E, XR-G, SST, etc... ), other tailcaps, customs, tritiums, bezels, lens'... ?

What are the really good options out there? I like the five light levels that the OpticsHQ offers, I could use something brighter though. Maybe more towards the "wall-of-light" than the hotspot. But, would it work with the OpticsHQ tail-cap - probably not, and that's the issue I'm running into.

Options...

Thanks in advance...
-RC

P.S. Is there a way to turn my Z2 into an 18650 light while still using the OpticsHQ setup? I really would like to do this...

What are your goals for the lego?

Just about any SF or 3rd party clone part that fits the standard 6P will work. So you can add things like a Z32 shock bezel if you need that capability. You can add a KT1 or KT2 TH kit for more throw. You can buy or build a replacement LED tower for that KT1 or KT2. You can buy complete 3rd party LED THs (e.g., Lumens Factory Seraph P7, OpticsHQ TX3, goinggear.com MC-E head; you will need a C to M adapter to use these Millennium threaded heads). If you buy an old SureFire 12ZM, you can use the TH from the 12ZM on your Z2.

There are lots of drop-in options. The Moddoo triple XP-E is a high performer. Nailbender sells lots of different drop-ins with various LED options. Malkoff is probably the gold standard by which all others are measured.

The OpticsHQ tailcap works with some drop-ins, but not others. It depends on the driver. Some drop-in drivers run in a "moonglow" mode even when the OpticsHQ tailcap is supposedly "off". Other drivers turn off properly.

Are you aware that the OpticsHQ tailcap has a parasitic current draw of about 1mA even when "off"?

 

[FliGuyRyan]

Justin Case,

I'm aware of the parasitic current draw from the OpticsHQ tailcap. I'm not sure if they have a patent on it or what, but I'm not sure why no manufacturer (other than Olight with the M30) has tried to make the side-button tailcap UI that OpticsHQ has without the current draw and maybe 3-4 levels, or sticking with the 5 levels but just like a .3 lumen starting low. The low is good on their modes though. About the same as my Nitecore EX-10. It's a wonderful product and design though and I think if more people knew/experienced it, they would be sold. I would love to have the momentary on the back, but when I tried it, I kept activating the side button and it came on in my pocket... if they could fix this and the current draw somehow, it'd be great.

Anyhow, thanks for your suggestions guys.

To give you more of a specific "want" I would like to put tritium bars/dots somewhere on the tailcap and body, I just don't know where and I don't have the know-how.

I would like a P60 drop-in that produces the wall-of-light, maybe a MC-E would do that.

Also, and probably the most important thing, I would like the extender/battery option of a two-celled battery. Meaning one like the 18650, I just don't want to go the boring route. I have about 10 of the RCR123 Tenergy cells and I'm happy with them, but I would like the one-cell to do the trick.

What is the difference between the:

17500
18500
18650

Thanks,
Ryan

P.S. A strike bezel and an ultra clear after-market lens would be great. Maybe Sapphire? What's the best lens for light pass-through?

And again, tritium... Also, I do EDC my light in my pocket. It doesn't go on a holster, so these things (like the strike bezel) can't be permanent where it wouldn't allow me to EDC...

 

[Justin Case]

Not sure I understand your desire for a battery extender. You want a 1x18650 extender for your Z2 to get 2x18650 capability, but you don't want to bore your Z2? That's going to be pretty hard to accomplish, if that's the case.

IMO, the OpticsHQ tailcap can use several changes. Eliminating the excessive parasitic current draw is one of them. Getting rid of the GITD buttons is another. If this is meant to be a tactical item, GITD is out of place. Along those lines, I would not bother with any tritium add-ons. Rounding the sharp points and edges of the scallops is yet another desired change.

The problem with side button UIs is that accessing the side button typically depends on orientation. If the side button isn't oriented such that the index finger (or whatever finger you use to press the side button) can reach it, then you have to fumble around to get the tailcap properly oriented.

OpticsHQ could enlarge the side button and turn it into more of an elongated rectangle.

If OpticsHQ wants tailstanding capability, I would use a rubber shroud a la the SureFire Z48/Z49 and dispense with the scalloped tail. IMO, the scallops just get in the way. My thumb ideally has to fall in-between the raised sections, which limits access to the tail button. With a rubber or other flexible shroud, I can just lay my thumb over the edge of the shroud, and press. The shroud, being flexible, just folds over and thus my thumb can access the tail button from any aspect angle. I don't need a glorified strike tailcap either. I'm already holding the flashlight in a hammerfist, and thus it's the bezel that will be the primary striking surface. A strike tailcap is mainly useful only for something like a ridge hand.

If you want a removable strike bezel, I've seen such things on CPF that retrofit onto SF Classic bezels. For clone bezels, the G&P bezel (maybe Solarforce too, but I don't have one and I can't remember for sure) comes with a plain bezel and a strike bezel (interchangeable). They are not thread compatible with your Z2 bezel.

There is no need for an aftermarket glass window. The SureFire borofloat/Pyrex window is already something like 98% transmissive.

The differences between those various cells are size, capacity, degree of voltage sag under load, and availability of Li-Mn chemistry.

 

[FliGuyRyan]

Justin Case,

You made VERY good points about their tailcap. You should contact them and tell them your ideas. I'd buy that tailcap. All great points.

As for the aftermarket glass, another good point.

My only concern now is for longer battery life. Is there a battery I can use now that will fit (no extenders, forget that) the current body that will provide longer runtime?

Thanks again,
RC

 

[Justin Case]

The challenge is to find a drop-in that uses a P60 drop-in/driver that can run in full regulation with 1xLi-ion. Most buck drivers won't reach full regulation when fed 3.7V nominal for the input voltage and using your typical single die LED like a Cree XR-E, SSC P4, or even a Cree XP-G. A 3xAMC7135 based driver should be one example that can run in full regulation when powered by 1xLi-ion, especially if you use a low Vf LED like a Cree XP-G.

On paper, 1x17670 will fit a Z2 and give a runtime of about 1.6h if you had a notional XP-G drop-in with a 3xAMC7135 driver. In contrast, 2x16340 for the same XP-G drip-in but using a 90% efficient buck driver, might run for about 1h. However, if you use 2x123A, runtime could be close to 2h. But the cells aren't rechargeable.

I contacted OpticsHQ about their tailcap's high parasitic current drain, and they were not interested in fixing that. Based on that, I don't have much interest in pursuing further product improvement ideas with them.

 

[FliGuyRyan]

I contacted OpticsHQ about their tailcap's high parasitic current drain, and they were not interested in fixing that. Based on that, I don't have much interest in pursuing further product improvement ideas with them.

That's really too bad as their product in theory is a step ahead of many others...

Thanks for all your help. I have a lot of thinking to do and will probably just keep what I have. I might look into Lego'ing a DBS...

-RC