Surefire KL4 + VB1 : need advice.

[AdamLuczak]

Hello,

I need a little help.
I have just bought a VB1 body from a second hand.
I tried to screw my KL4 on it and it is working very strange...
When I press the tailcap very slowly, the diode blinks randomly (like it has not good connection).
When I just pres it , it sometimes turns on, sometimes not. And when it turns on it lights with diffirent brightnesses (however rather poor) between turns.
However, when I unsrewed the tailcap and just shortcircuiced (it it right word?) the battery with the body (using a clip it turns on rapidly with a perfect brightness (almost as on original two batteries body).

What is going on? Does the VB1 tailcap has any electronics in? Or resistors??

I think I should take the tailcap apart and inspect it (clean it) in the inside... Should I?

Adam

 

[Long John]

Hello Adam

What battery do you use?
Not all KL4 heads will work with one RCR123 cell.

Best regards

____
Tom

 

[AdamLuczak]

I use single Surefir CR123.
My KL4 head works fine with one cell.
I checked it on my friends e1e body.

Adam

 

[Long John]

Hmmmmm, IMO 3Volts are a little weak to drive the KL4. I would use one RCR123 LiIon cell. Perhaps the primary is with it's 3Volt at the boundary with the VB1-body. I guess the internal resistance of this switch is higher than the SF switch, this could be the reason why it doesn't work.

Best regards

____
Tom

 

[AdamLuczak]

I use single Surefir CR123.
My KL4 head works fine with one cell.
I checked it on my friends e1e body.

Adam

 

[AdamLuczak]

3V is quite ok for my head.
It works perfect when I shortcircuit it.
But when using the tailcap, something is not ok...

... sorry for a doule post, my son did this... He is 17 months old, you must forgive him www.grzegorz.luczak.pl

Adam

 

[AdamLuczak]

Anyone knows what is going on with that switch ??

Adam

 

[Robocop]

It seems as if I remember a thread dealing with some form of a fix for this tail switch however for the life of me I can not find it on a search....

I have this same set up on an original TW4 head which is the same as yours however picked specific for a lower voltage. I did take the switch apart and fully cleaned everything before I began using it so I do know that it is able to be disassembled. Maybe simply tightening everything up will help and if you look inside the cap you will see the threaded ring that is used to remove the internals. A pair of fine needle nose pliars will usually work.

On a side not you really do have to try a rechargeable 4.2 volt battery in your light. There are plenty who offer them now and they are cheap as dirt and well worth the money....your light will be almost twice as bright as that single 3 volt cell you are using now.

 

[AdamLuczak]

I will disassemble and clean it so.
Do you mean lithium rechargables with 4.2 on at the start and 3.7 nominal output?

Adam

 

[yaesumofo]

first of all the kl4 head prefers the higher voltage of a rechargeable rcr123 cell. Start there. then figure out which version of the tail switch you have. Is here a spring? or no spring?
The VB-1 is testy at best. you do give up some reliability by switching form a quality surefire clicky to the vb1. you also gain a size advantage with the VB-1. It is about trade offs. you my nee to go to a rcr123 and work with the spring and switch to make it work well.
keep on working with it you will get it working well.
Yaesumofo

 

[Blindasabat]

I have had the same problems after dealing with my new FB1 bought on B/S/T. I ended up getting two, one old/original style with a small leaf spring in the tail switch, and a newer one with a coil spring. Which one do you have?
The old style one needs to be adjusted to fit different length batteries by (most often) unscrewing the tail switch or screwing it in to match shorther batteries. If you need to keep the switch unscrewed, then you need to put an o-ring between the switch and battery tube to keep it sealed.
The newer coil spring version does not need as much adjustment, if any.

I like the VG style clip, it allows comfortable pocket carry with bezel down. I don't like to have lights at the bottom of my pocket.

 

[AdamLuczak]

yaesumofo: I have the one like on the right with spring.

Blindasabat: I have the coil spring.

What kind of switch is the inside? Does it need cleaning?


Adam

 

[Blindasabat]

Blindasabat: I have the coil spring.

Adam, if you have the coil spring switch, then you probably don't have a battery length problem. Try cleaning it. I have never done that since I've only had mine less than a week, but that may be part of, if not the whole problem. Do you have access to DeOxit and Pro Gold sprays? You can use those or some other electronics cleaners that will not damage electronics. But you may have to take them apart to clean best.
You will get best use out of a 4.2/3.7V RCR though with your KL4 head. I am using a KL1 on FB1 with RCR so it is like a small E2L. Shorter run time, but that is OK for now. Plus I always carry spare primaries for longer run time and emergencies.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Get the original E1e body + RCR 3.7v = perfect match.

 

[AdamLuczak]

Blindasabat: I also think hat is not a prblem with a battery becouse it sometimes turns on and sometimes not. I do not have DeOxit and Pro Gold sprays, and it is propably unknown in poland I will have to find something diffirent.

I do not like the KL1 beam and I prefer stronger light of KL4.
The question is: how to make this switch working for me (shortcircuited battery with body lights perfect)

Outdoors Fanatic: I ordered one form John at lighthound, however avaiability is poor... We are still waiting.

I prefer VB1 to E1E body, but I will get both

Adam

 

[berto]

I have the exact same problem with mine if I leave it untouched for a couple of weeks. So Iam gussing its not making a good connection somewere.

 

[AdamLuczak]

What would you recommend for cleaning and tuning connectors?

Adam