SureFire L4 (KL4) owners only

[brightnorm]

I prefer slightly lower resistance for PILAs than for 123s because the DD stage 1 dims more over time with the PILA's lower voltage, and my night vision isn't great.

L4 or Aleph 2/5w/700ma
PILA: 15 ohms
2x123: 22-30 ohms

PR-T/DB917 or Aleph 1/DB917
PILA: 30-45ohms
2x123:60 ohms

Just my personal preference.

Brightnorm

 

[brightnorm]

[ QUOTE ]
Kiessling said:
Dizney,
this combo BB750 5W 2x123 Aleph1 will pack more punch than the L4, it will also have more throw.
But it won't be the "wow-is-that-freakin'-bright expierience after you have already the L4...


[/ QUOTE ]

I think it would be pretty similar to my "old" PM6/McModule.

Brightnorm

 

[verbie]

McGizmo, hope you wont mind explaining a bit to a person clueless about lights(me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif), but I have some questions. I like the idea of the two-stage switch, but I am uncertain to which one to order or exactly how the switch works. In reference to the picture of the three lights, are those all three different types of two-stage switches?

Thanks in advance to McGizmo and anyone who has the patience to explain to me.

 

[Kiessling]

verbie, plese look at the ALEPH-FAQ to learn about the mechanics of the switch. The operation is just like a SF L1 / L2 / A2 switch with forst low than high mode upon screwing the cap in and a pushbutton for the same sequence in momentary mode where momentary high and low is accessible.
There are three iterations of the Aleph tailcap (shown in the FAQ) among which you can choose one to your liking, but the McE2S module can also be mounted in a SF Z52 or Z57 cap upon request.
In the pic you have from top to bottom:
Aleph-Tailcap with McE2S
SF Z57, maybe with McE2S
Aleph "Trim" Tailcap with McE2S

Where the Trim Cap is functionally identical to the original cap but lacks some of the attachment options and the good cigar grip capability.

bernhard

 

[verbie]

thank you, bernhard!

 

[Mr_Dead]

For folks still wondering which board to order... now that I've had mine for some time (L4 with 30-ohm McE2S), I can say that of the lights I own, the one it maches most closely on "low" is the Inova X5 (HA, but I don't expect that matters). Really close comparisons are subjectively difficult because the tints are so different, but the overall light output seems similar, as is the utility. The L4 hotspot is hotter (and defined, while of course that of the 5x5mm X5 is not) and the spill broader, but I don't have anything closer. It's noticably brighter than "low" on the Streamlight TT 2L.

I deliberately ordered this one for long battery life, but I expected it to be pretty dim on low. It seems very dim- compared to high. On it's own, in a dark room, it's plenty.

Ahem... (trying not to look pointedly in any one direction)... I sure wish someone had done, or would do, a runtime plot on this combination. Ahem... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Kiessling]

Here's one Don made for the 22 ohm resistor:
http://www.dmcleish.com/CPF/run-times/SF-L4-22-0hm-LOW.jpg

bernhard

 

[McGizmo]

For clarification in that run time graph, the first 4 hours were with an ambient light of about 10 lux present before I turned off the lights in the shop and went to bed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif For the actual output with no ambient, the first portion of the graph should be dropped down to line up with the latter portion. You can see the vertical line at about the 4 hour mark. Obviously with a 30 ohm set, the runtime will be significantly longer.

 

[verbie]

Is there a time limit to ordering these switches? because i'm still reading to try to know which one i want, need to order /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[McGizmo]

No time limit really. These will not be an on going part indefinitely though so at some point, they will dry up.

 

[powernoodle]

I need to grab one to extend my runtime. Got a L4 last week from Botach (yes, they actually sent it) and blew threw a pair of 123s in no time. But I was playing with the thing a lot.

So going back to what Craig and Don said above about a 22 ohm producing (maybe, sorta, generally) 6 lumens with a L4, this would be (maybe, sorta, generally) twice the output of an Arc AAA. Does this sound about right? I might not need to drop $70+ on a Pila and a charger with several hours of runtime on low.


best regards

 

[Darell]

Sorta, kinda right, noodle. The switch resistance, much like the Aleph LE in the heads, is quite easy to change out. If you like the idea of the two-stage switch, just take a stab at which level you think you'll like. If you find you want the Low to be a bit higher or lower, a few bucks gets you a new resistored board that you can replace in the switch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif neato.

 

[brightnorm]

[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
No time limit really. These will not be an on going part indefinitely though so at some point, they will dry up.

[/ QUOTE ]

Don,

That's kind of disappointing; the McE2S is such an extraordinarily useful creation that I assumed it would be always available. Why would you stop production of such a great item?

Brightnorm

 

[McGizmo]

Brghtnorm,

It's not that I would just stop production but when I have to order the machined parts in lots of 500 or 1000 pieces, I have to ask myself, 500 more? Will I end up with these or will people still want them...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

 

[JanCPF]

I got a McE2S from Chop that I use on my L4. I also got an additional resistor board, but how do I change the boards? I can se the hex key screw, but which part of the switch do I counter hold to get this lose and how?

Jan

 

[Flatscan]

Jan,

I take the spring out, then push on the rubber button with the base of the tailcap on a flat surface until the switch assembly pops out. Then you can hold the top of the switch with pliers while you unscrew the hex screw. When you're done swapping PCBs, you can pop it back together.

I've been lubing the button and the retaining o-ring liberally before assembly, but the lube dries out or something in a week or two, and the switch gets very difficult to pop out.

 

[McGizmo]

Flatscan,
What lube are you using? I was using the Nyegel but discovered that it liked to get thick and gummy so I have started using silicone grease.

If one is inclined to swap these around, you don't need the retaining O-ring on the button for proper function of the switch. Since true lock out can only be achieved by cracking the head loose, frankly I am not sure the retaining O-ring serves any real purpose. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

 

[mullytron]

Hey Gizmo,

New SF CPFer here, I could use a 2-stage switch for an E1e/KL4 combo. Right now it has the Z57. Do you still have them in stock?

 

[Flatscan]

I'm using the thick Radio Shack stuff. I think it's gumming up because there are bits of dried something stuck to the switch when I remove it.

I like having the retaining o-ring there so that the switch won't just fall out on tailcap removal. Maybe some thinner lube squirted in when full disassembly is required is what I need.

 

[McGizmo]

mullytron,

If you are asking if I have McE2S switches, yes. I am no longer offering Z-57's that have been gutted and changed over to 2 stage. If you go to the new link in my sig (if I got it right /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif) YOu can read how to order one.