The Tri-V user interface.

fyrstormer

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Like everyone else who's just gotten a Tri-V, I've been playing with mine pretty much nonstop while I've been awake. Being an engineer specializing in human-computer interaction, I've got some thoughts on the way the knob works.

Various user-interface laws whose formal names I don't remember right now state that the easiest knob positions to access will be the ones at the ends of its rotation, because the user can fling the knob until it stops rotating with no need for more precision than that. Since OFF occupies one of the end positions, the easiest settings to access from OFF will be rotating the knob a single click, and rotating the knob all the way to the opposite end of its rotation.

For the 005 and 007, this is fine because the user interface only controls brightness, which is a more-or-less linear setting: if the brightness isn't enough, rotate the knob more; if it's too much, rotate it back a bit; if something went bump in the night, fling the knob to Position 6; if you need to shut the light off real fast, fling it back to Position 0.

The Tri-V is more complex, however, since the knob not only selects brightness but also selects which emitter is turned on. So having two easily-accessible settings out of 6 is certainly not ideal. Anything that would make more settings easily-accessible would be better. If I understand how the knob and the STFu driver interact, every setting is ultimately controlled by software even if the user can't change all of them, so my suggestion should be doable:

Move OFF to the center position.

Why? Because if OFF is in the center position, then both of the easily-accessible end positions become usable to store emitter/brightness settings, and there will also be two rotate-one-click positions as well, one on each side of the OFF position. That makes 4 of the 6 ON positions easy to access, and the remaining two are just two clicks away from OFF, which means they're not exactly difficult to access in a hurry either. So by moving OFF to the center, all of the ON positions become easier to access, and the user doesn't have to scroll through more than two settings in either direction to get to the one they want, unlike the current setup which requires scrolling through up to 5 settings to get to the one they want.

It could be pointed out that putting OFF in the center makes it the hardest setting to access in a hurry, and that is certainly true, and I would care about such things in a tactical situation where I might need to shut my light off as fast as possible to avoid detection. But, IMO, if I were in a tactical situation, I would not be using a light with a scroll knob in the first place, I'd be using a simple on-off clicky light instead. For non-tactical situations, I think making the light as easy as possible to turn on to the setting the user wants is much more important.

Food for thought. If reprogramming of the driver were necessary to make this work, I'd be willing to donate my light as a testbed for the new firmware.
 
I'd prefer OFF in switch position 3, with two settings on one side and four on the other. It could have a deeper detent to make it easier to not overshoot it. I suggested that some time back but Dave was blunt that it was a non-starter.
 
Maybe user selectability would be the best? You could have 'off' in the regular position for P1 for example, then in the middle, or any other location for P2-P4.

I really like the idea of being able to go one way for flood for example, and the other for reflector.
 
Nab. OFF should be one of the extreme end settings.
In the middle would be like putting PARK on N auto gear box on the middle, reverse is down and forward up. Kinda
Ames sense but not efficient and not easy to use. IMO
 
I would absolutely LOVE if the next Tri-V had a reverse-USB slot in it. Give the users a nice GUI to work from and let him/her program the light from a computer. Don't want to add any bulk to the light? Cram a Bluetooth radio inside and we can connect wirelessly! You could allow the user to select where the off switch is, as well as program all slots. Of course, I would still like the ability to program the light on-the-fly without a computer too.

However, let me be clear here......I don't have ONE single complaint about this light. I don't want my Tri-V changed at all.....Just the next one I buylovecpf
 
Interesting idea fyrstormer.

I think the one you are looking for is Fitts law?
Yep, that's the one, I'm terrible with names. I've actually tripped over my own brother's name a few times.

Anyway, what got me thinking about this is it would be really nice if I could have three settings that go from low flood to full throw, and another three that go from medium throw to full spot. But in order to not have to quickly and accurately scroll past three of the settings if I want to get to the other three, I'd need to have OFF in the center, between the two groups of settings.

User-selectable OFF positions would be great, but I'm afraid that could cause problems with the power-up commands when you put the battery cap on the light with the knob in a position other than 0. In particular, doesn't Power-Up-3 cause a factory reset? I dunno. Maybe it's doable to have OFF movable based on user preference, but if not then I'd settle for having OFF in the center.
 
Nab. OFF should be one of the extreme end settings.
In the middle would be like putting PARK on N auto gear box on the middle, reverse is down and forward up. Kinda
Ames sense but not efficient and not easy to use. IMO
Ah, but on a manual gearbox, N is in the middle, and on an automatic, N is still between reverse and forward. (PARK actually wasn't added until decades after the first usable automatic transmissions were built, and it's still not necessary if you know how to use a handbrake.)

So there is a precedent for what I'm talking about. Anyway, I'm not saying everyone should have to do things my way, and I suppose for people who've owned other SPYs in the past, having the UI stay the same is easier, but it would be nice if I could get mine tweaked to work the way I explained earlier.
 
I think Dave didn't use center position "OFF" because it will be difficult to know whether the light is OFF as you turn the knob since the emitter can be set to very dim on low, while putting the "OFF" at the end ensures the light is OFF as long as you turn the knob all the way up.

However, I do believe Dave missed out a "All emitter off" programming in the emitter selection stage (we can select all emitters ON, but not all emitters OFF) that will allow us to select our own "OFF" knob position.
 
Fyrstormer,
An intriguing idea and one that would have not crossed my mind, for me having off in the fully counter clockwise position is logical and simple to use. You could easily operate it blindfold (why would you need a light if you can't see :thinking:) I also think that the knob is so tactile and easy to operate that just maybe using the side of a finger to roll it back and forth to the desired setting is easy enough.
I would like to try your system out of curiosity but I wonder if there is a Hard off on the driver?

Mike
 
As I understand it, there is no "hard power-off" on the SPY lights; the driver is always powered, but the firmware is coded to treat position 0 as "all emitters off".
 
I like my Tri-V just the way it is and while Dave does ask for feedback I remember reading that he mentioned that the current circuit board he is using is almost max'd out. Maybe your idea is still doable by just simply shifting functions.
I agree with gtwace that an "all emmiter off" option when selecting emitters would come in handy. I am currently using 5ma to simulate an "off" position. I see that I can go lower than 5ma but I have not yet tried that.
However, I do believe Dave missed out a "All emitter off" programming in the emitter selection stage (we can select all emitters ON, but not all emitters OFF) that will allow us to select our own "OFF" knob position.
 
Thought about this last night. I have not opened a Spy but I am guessing the off position has NO power connected and the othe 6 do. So it might be possible to rewire it to make the centre click location power free.

But, since this is also the default OFF or SET for some programming, it might be harder to locate this centre position during programming.
 
Thought about this last night. I have not opened a Spy but I am guessing the off position has NO power connected and the othe 6 do. So it might be possible to rewire it to make the centre click location power free.

But, since this is also the default OFF or SET for some programming, it might be harder to locate this centre position during programming.
The switch has ten pins in a circle and one pin in the center. Based on my spinning the knob back and forth, it looks like each click corresponds to one pin, or maybe to a gap between two pins. Either way, they're all soldered in-place, though I guess I can't say for sure whether they're all connected to anything. But since SPYs have a parasitic drain when the light is off, I think that means all of the seven positions on the knob are actually part of the driver circuit.
 
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