Want small EDC LED 2 stage...

[Tremendo]

I'm still searching for the perfect carry light for me. I have a 2 stage L1P that I'm using, and if possible, I would like something to be even more powerful, but the same size or smaller. The spot size of the Fenix is good. I need at least a high/low power and I love the momentary on tail switch (the Fenix is a reverse unfortunately). I'm considering an HDS60 (soon 85), but I like to drop the light in my front pocket and I don't want any thicker than my Fenix. I'd prefer AA, but CR123 is OK too. I'd prefer not to goto another battery format like CR2, but I could if I had to.

Any other thoughts I may not have considered? Thanks!

 

[carrot]

Well, the HDS EDC seems like a good choice -- I was looking at some pictures, and the EDC doesn't look that much wider than a MiniMag bezel.

Take a look here for a size comparison: http://flashlightreviews.com/reviews/hds_edcu60xr.htm

 

[cratz2]

The Orb Raw 2 stage comes to mind... but if you don't want to get any larger diameter than the Fenix, I think you'll probably need to just have the Fenix modded with something brighter. Even a straight emitter swap with a U-bin will make it brighter, but probably not radically brighter. There are a couple guys doing more involved mods with the Fenix light that you might look into. But if you are wanting quite a bit more throw, you're probably going to need to look into a larger reflector which would dictate a larger head which would mean that a larger body wouldn't be too big of a deal so you're back to looking at a 123 light.

 

[CLHC]

That HDS is quite "thick" and stubby. Similarly sized as the SF.6P body, girth wise that is!

 

[Luxman]

+1 on the HDS light. I have the U60 and it is my favorite "all around" and EDC Light!

 

[Tremendo]

Thanks. I think we're on the same wavelength. I am waiting for the "Orb Raw" guys to get back from vacation to possibly order one, and I am also working on getting a modded version of a Fenix. The HDS was my consideration, I'm just concerned it will be too bulky in my pocket.

 

[CLHC]

Exactly what you've mentioned Tremendo! About the "too bulky in. . .pocket" part. There's also the Aleph series from The Sandwich Shoppe too! Hope you find what you're looking for and Enjoy!

 

[Tremendo]

There's also the Aleph series from The Sandwich Shoppe too!

Thanks for the idea. They look quite expensive and I don't know much about them. I will continue to investigate.

 

[dealer]

The Jil intelli is a good choice. I would take a look at it. Just type in jil and do search.

 

[Data]

. . . and I don't want any thicker than my Fenix. I'd prefer AA, but CR123 is OK too. . . .

. . .They look quite expensive . . .

Any other thoughts I may not have considered? Thanks!

If expensive is an option. Cough cough SPY cough. :devil:

The SPY is only .88" thick at its max.


Cheers
Dave

 

[CLHC]

The SPY005 is an ingenius little torcher! A lot of "engineering" went into it. But at +$$$+ WWWHHHEEEEEEWWW! ! !

 

[procure]

What are the estimated runtimes for the Spy at the various output levels?

 

[Data]

What are the estimated runtimes for the Spy at the various output levels?

I will try to track down that data. We have not done any formal run-time tests on the SPY converter board yet. It is a standard DownBoy running at the various power levels. 1000, 500, 250, 100, 30, and 4mA of current. I know there are some run-time plots for the DownBoy on two batteries and a Vf LED of an J bin on this forum but I am not sure how to find them anymore.



Dave

 

[Tremendo]

Thanks for all the ideas. I ordered 2 more Fenix's, and will have the board modded to push the Lux 1 a little harder, keeping the same LED. Hopefully that will work well, and still give reasonable run time. I will do the 2 stage mod myself, when I see the beam and decide how much I want to cut the low power to. My current Fenix has a 10 ohm resistor which is perfect for night time inside the house, but with a more powerful Fenix, I may want to try 15 or 20 ohms.

I tried to stay away from the CR2 battery format, but now I am considering the Orb Raw or the Jil Intelli. I like the Raw's size and simpleness, but the Jil has multiple programable levels, which seems kind of cool. I wonder of the new T bin Raw is more powerful than the new Jil Intelli? Does anybody know?

 

[StoneDog]

PhotonFanatic is still selling CNC-123 and Groovy lights. Put in one of cgpeanut's POP2 sandwiches and you're good to go. That's what I EDC and I prefer it to the HDS/Arc 4+ in theory (haven't handled either) because of the CNC-123's modular design (in seconds I can switch out driver/LED and/or optics) and the protected clickie.

Jon

 

[Tremendo]

PhotonFanatic is still selling CNC-123 and Groovy lights. Put in one of cgpeanut's POP2 sandwiches and you're good to go. That's what I EDC and I prefer it to the HDS/Arc 4+ in theory (haven't handled either) because of the CNC-123's modular design (in seconds I can switch out driver/LED and/or optics) and the protected clickie.


Jon

Thanks for the idea. I just looked at the site, the size is right. How bright are they in comparison to other known lights (whatever you have to compare it to)? Their other special-use borescope light says 750mA compared to the 500mA of the CNC-123. I'd choose brightness over run time, especially since I'd want at least 2 stage.

 

[Safety1st]

Thanks. I think we're on the same wavelength. I am waiting for the "Orb Raw" guys to get back from vacation to possibly order one, and I am also working on getting a modded version of a Fenix. The HDS was my consideration, I'm just concerned it will be too bulky in my pocket.

It would be bulky in your trouser pocket...:wave:

However, the pocket of a coat or jacket...is no problem...

In addition, the clip is especially useful for clipping onto your belt..and the light isn't much above and below the width of a belt to be too noticeable..

The HDS U60 is a superb light...in many ways...and the fact that it's always at hand when you need it...is a great quality...

Although I like my U2, 6P etc etc........I only have them when i'm on duty or out walking my dog....

The other times....they are way to big to fit into everyday mobile life.....that is where the HDS U60 comes in...:goodjob:

 

[greenLED]

I don't find the HDS or the ArcLS too bulky for pocket carry. I have an LS in my pocket as I type. With a 123-based light you get the advantage of longer runtime (& w/the HDS you have all the extra functions).

 

[StoneDog]

Thanks for the idea. I just looked at the site, the size is right. How bright are they in comparison to other known lights (whatever you have to compare it to)? Their other special-use borescope light says 750mA compared to the 500mA of the CNC-123. I'd choose brightness over run time, especially since I'd want at least 2 stage.

Well, keep in mind that the light is modular, so the "sandwich" (driver/emitter combo) you use will determine brightness, etc. It's possible to build/buy a couple of different sandwiches and drop in the one you want...

Mine is running a TYOH, POP2 board and R123. On it's highest setting the TYOH is (in theory) getting 600 or 700ma. I say in theory because I haven't measured it so I can't say for sure. It also has an adjustable level that can be set as low as a single 5mm's output. Nice.

Comparing max output to the other lights I have in this category... Well, the only light I have that's brighter is a KL1 running at 917ma with a "U" bin emitter and modified 20mm reflector. My other lights in this category (normal 4th gen KL1, MadMaxPlus MiniMag w/ R bin Lux1, ProPoly 4AA Luxeon, etc) don't come close to it.

With the right sandwich ("U" bin and NG1000, for example) you could come really close to the HDS85 at it's highest setting, but you would lose the dual-stage feature. On the off chance you find a "U" bin emitter with a "J" or "H" forward voltage, you could couple that with the POP2 driver and beat the HDS60's max output and retain multi-stage functionality.

Anyway, something to think about.

Jon

 

[Lunarmodule]

Thanks for all the ideas. I ordered 2 more Fenix's, and will have the board modded to push the Lux 1 a little harder, keeping the same LED. Hopefully that will work well, and still give reasonable run time. I will do the 2 stage mod myself, when I see the beam and decide how much I want to cut the low power to. My current Fenix has a 10 ohm resistor which is perfect for night time inside the house, but with a more powerful Fenix, I may want to try 15 or 20 ohms.

I tried to stay away from the CR2 battery format, but now I am considering the Orb Raw or the Jil Intelli. I like the Raw's size and simpleness, but the Jil has multiple programable levels, which seems kind of cool. I wonder of the new T bin Raw is more powerful than the new Jil Intelli? Does anybody know?

The CR2 lights have certain advantages. Excellent picks with the JiL and Orb. I have a 1.3w up and Raw U-bin. Between the two (and the two you listed) the JiL Intelli gets the nod because its basically a micro sized HDS in Sherman Tank build quality, very durable, solid, great HA, very resilient to the real world knocks. And its easier to operate one handed with knurling, etc. The Orb is a BEAUTIFUL torch and amazing performer but its much more like jewelry than a tool. Its a BWM and the JiL is the Humvee. Plus the Intelli UI gives it multi levels and other extras on demand. Best you can get with the Orb is a 2-stage mmechanical which works very well. JiL is considerably smaller, not quite as bright on high level but both have excellent utility beams for near field and midrange. Theh JiL is more suitable for the real world but it does so with its own rugged classiness. It is SOLID. An excellent performance/value light to consider in CR2 is the Vortex Vision for less than $40 from Lighthound.com. Like a budget JiL. Highly rated and an unbeatable bargain at the price point. CR2s offer much more compact size, limited runtime, BUT the Intelli and 2-stage on Raw give LOTS (hours) of runtime to make up for their predecessors single output limitations (original Raw lasted 13 whole minutes from screaming fresh batt to DEAD!)

In CR123, no question the HDS EDCs offer incredible features and performance, compact size, and Schwarzenegger toughness but are VERY pricey. I almost fainted when I boght my first HDS, and Ultimate 60XR and it showed up in a clear plastic bag. Almost three hundred dollars for this little cylinder thing ina sandwich baggie? Better melt bricks with its power.... well, no not exactly, but it IS bright.... after 20 minutes of fumbling with the UI I took it out for the night to play, and the very first night played samaritan unexpectedly at a neighborhood auto accident helping direct traffic and signal cars until the police arrived! Using the strobe mode and all the brighness levels. WOW! I was forever made a high end flashlight convert. Now I have refined my EDC to 2 lights: a Fenix L1p and HDS EDC or McLux PD. One KISS principle AA light with LONG runtime (Fenix) and one custom performance light with multi levels or exceptional performance in some specialty. Lately the winning combo is L1p and U85 (I got lucky and got a very early one!). Lesson I learned is never underestimate the incredible versatility and runtime extension given by multiple light levels and the flexibility to change quickly between them (HDS EDC). Other combos I use a nice midsize Surefire incan plus CR2 micro light like JiL 1.3 up. Or Lioncub and U2. Or really extreme: Chop custom CR2 with POP2 sammie (VERY small) and SF M6.