What to do with "obsolete" E2D?

[JT1JT1]

I bought an incan E2D some years back.

I now have less interest in the bezel features and I always was somewhat bothered by the single output of incans; I now also have a couple of LED lights with significantly greater lumens and flexibility (Fenix P3D and LD20).

Still, there's a lot to like about the SF product in general and incan too. I'm just wondering what options I have to make the E2D more compelling amid the current market options.

Specifically,

1) How are the KX2 and KX2C LED replacement heads a compelling option and value when $10 more could get one the entire E2D LED version? Why isn't the E2D LED head available separately?

2) If I want to stay with the CR123 primaries, what ican bulb/head replacement is available that would be competitive with the lumens put out by my current LED lineup?

3) What would I have to do to get a really HIGH brightness, assuming I'm flexible on whether I use primaries or not and am willing to stay with incan?

Basically, I'm trying to figure how to keep the E2D in active duty. Right now, it sits in the car glovebox as my emergency light, although I even wonder about that given the limited runtime and bulb life, was well as difficulty in using it to easily read maps, etc., without a diffuser. (The battery shelf life is good for this application though.)

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

[bigchelis]

If you want to go to LED TnC products has in stock black E to C adaptors for $27 dollars. What this will do is allow you to install a 6P bezel on your E2D. Then you could choose any of the P60 drop-in alternatives. If you purchased the new Malkoff MC-E it will give you over 500 lumens with 2 batteries. Malkoff drop-ins are available in warm version too. I used a M30WF and man it was dead on with my P91 color wise.

1. D26 IMR500 lumen P60 drop-in. Incandescent. I just got this and it is my favorate incandescent. The battery life is not so great, so I started using it in 2 18650 hosts.
2. Malkoff M60 works great with 2 non-rechargeable batteries. Nothing can compete with the quality of this.

Now if you want to keep your stock bezel (head)
1. Go to lighthound.com and type in search menu: lumens factory; them IMR
2. You will have many incandescent bulb options made by lumens factory and a couple by IMR.


See my E1e here below. I put a 6P bezel and Malkoff drop-in. I also purchased the Lumens Factory 50 lumen lamp drop-in too. My E to C adaptor is green, but they have black ones in stock now.

If you do not have a 6P bezel I would suggest the Solarforce bezel (6P type). If you get it at lighthound.com make sure to purchase the UCL lens for G2 surefires and a stainless steel ring. The UCL lens will allow more light to go out the front and the stainless steel ring can replace the crown assault ring on the solarforce. (lighthound has not had the flat version for a while).

 

[bigchelis]

:welcome:

 

[Chrontius]

If you want really high brightness (350 lumens) and incandescent, the Lumens Factory IMR bulbs are perfect. Requires two AW IMR 16340 cells.

If you want even higher brightness, and don't mind spending money on a mod, Milkyspit can put a quad-core LED in your E2D pumping out 600-800 lumens; expect to spend roughly $150 on the mod.

The 'E-series turbohead' option Chelis mentioned gives you a lot of flexibility.

If you can track one down, there were a run of LED dropins made for the E series. They're probably scarce, as a lot of people liked the idea and relatively few were actually bought.

Fivemega makes an adapter to use bi-pin bulbs in the E series. Streamlight Strion bulbs are popular, as they're cheap and use a 17670 li-ion battery that a lot of people are willing to use.

I think that's everything... except :welcome:

Edit: Or, sell your E2D and buy something like an A2 or the forthcoming A2L. A focused high-beam, a diffuse low-beam, and the A2L should be about the same size as your E2D.

 

[saabgoblin]

Optics HQ sells multi-mode TLS modules that are compatable with the "E" series Surefire bodies.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I bought an incan E2D some years back.

I now have less interest in the bezel features and I always was somewhat bothered by the single output of incans; I now also have a couple of LED lights with significantly greater lumens and flexibility (Fenix P3D and LD20).

Still, there's a lot to like about the SF product in general and incan too. I'm just wondering what options I have to make the E2D more compelling amid the current market options.

Specifically,

1) How are the KX2 and KX2C LED replacement heads a compelling option and value when $10 more could get one the entire E2D LED version? Why isn't the E2D LED head available separately?

2) If I want to stay with the CR123 primaries, what ican bulb/head replacement is available that would be competitive with the lumens put out by my current LED lineup?

3) What would I have to do to get a really HIGH brightness, assuming I'm flexible on whether I use primaries or not and am willing to stay with incan?

Basically, I'm trying to figure how to keep the E2D in active duty. Right now, it sits in the car glovebox as my emergency light, although I even wonder about that given the limited runtime and bulb life, was well as difficulty in using it to easily read maps, etc., without a diffuser. (The battery shelf life is good for this application though.)

Thanks for any suggestions!

Stick with incandescent and get new parts for it.... Examples of great setups for your E2D:

Batteries--> 2x AW RCR123 + 1x AW 17670 + 2x AW 16340 IMR

Lamp assemblies --> Lumens Factory EO-E1R + EO-E2R + IMR-E2

 

[Patriot]

I agree with OF,

Since you already have some other nice LED lights you might as well keep this one incan. Every Flashaholic should have a high quality, compact incan in his arsenal and there are so many great options. The easiest and arguably the best are some of the ones mentioned in OF's post. The E series is the unlikely configuration which reignited my love for incans many years ago.

 

[JT1JT1]

Thanks for the replies and the welcomes to CPF...I'm going to investigate the options. Don't be surprised if I have further questions!

 

[foxtrot29]

If you want really high brightness (350 lumens) and incandescent, the Lumens Factory IMR bulbs are perfect. Requires two AW IMR 16340 cells.

If you want even higher brightness, and don't mind spending money on a mod, Milkyspit can put a quad-core LED in your E2D pumping out 600-800 lumens; expect to spend roughly $150 on the mod.

The 'E-series turbohead' option Chelis mentioned gives you a lot of flexibility.

If you can track one down, there were a run of LED dropins made for the E series. They're probably scarce, as a lot of people liked the idea and relatively few were actually bought.

Fivemega makes an adapter to use bi-pin bulbs in the E series. Streamlight Strion bulbs are popular, as they're cheap and use a 17670 li-ion battery that a lot of people are willing to use.

I think that's everything... except :welcome:

Edit: Or, sell your E2D and buy something like an A2 or the forthcoming A2L. A focused high-beam, a diffuse low-beam, and the A2L should be about the same size as your E2D.

This is what I did. Got the IMR drop in for my E2D with the two AW IMR batteries. This thing is insane bright -- a retina burner that rivals any of my LED's. The M60 Malkoff throws farther, but that's to be expected with the small reflector of the E2D. Still, very impressive.

 

[dk8558]

If you still don't like those options, I'd be interested in your E2D. :naughty: I'm kinda trolling for one right now for the same options that OF mentioned.

 

[325addict]

I would start all over again with a C3 Centurion, two AW 17500 cells and one of those fine Lumens Factory 9V D26 lamp assemblies. Available from 0.85A to 2A (excluding the IMR), giving you 150 to 380 Lumens.

Start with the standard P90 lamp assembly (this one draws 1.15A and with this knowledge you can decide if you want more light = more current draw or less light = more runtime).

Do NOT install the IMR-lamp using the 17500 batteries, as these cannot stand the current draw (the same goes for the SureFire P91 lamp!)


And don't forget: incans rule :devil:
No matter how bright your LED-lights are, the warm tint, that feeling of those good old incans is unbeatable

Timmo.

 

[sygyzy]

Hi,

What does IMR stand for/mean?

Are AW batteries the standard/preferred ones around here?

Why can't you use two standard CR123's (non rechargeable) with the IMR lamp assembly?

Thanks,
David

 

[Kestrel]

Hi,

What does IMR stand for/mean?

Are AW batteries the standard/preferred ones around here?

Why can't you use two standard CR123's (non rechargeable) with the IMR lamp assembly?

Thanks,
David

a. Googling your exact text in the CPF search box, "What does IMR stand for/mean?" returns the thread below as the first hit, since the thread title is your exact question, letter for letter. Kinda spooky really.:huh:


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=219067

• lithium Ion
• Manganese
• Rechargeable

b. Yes. Many CPF'ers report a more consistent product, truthful capacities, and great customer service from AW.

c. CR123's can't safely handle the high current drain of these high-output lamp assemblies.

 

[Penguin]

Also OP, if you do decide to go the high-current IMR route, you'll need to get yourself a twistie for that E2D, as the SF clickies weren't meant to be used with that much current.. otherwise you'll risk breaking the switch

 

[sygyzy]

Thanks for your help.

Could I run a Lumens Factory IMR-9 500 Lumens Lamp Assembly on my Surefier E2 if I have an E-to-C head adapter? Stock body.

 

[bigchelis]

Thanks for your help.

Could I run a Lumens Factory IMR-9 500 Lumens Lamp Assembly on my Surefier E2 if I have an E-to-C head adapter? Stock body.

absoulutely. Just make sure to use 2 IMR 16340 cells and purchase extras becaue that IMR9 sucks batteries in no time.

 

[sygyzy]

I just took out my Surefires and I rememberd all over again why the E to C adapter head sucks. There's absoltuely nothing to grip on so there's no way to remove it. My C head, the lamp inside, and the adapter are stuck for life. Is there anyway I can run a LA for a C series head in a E2 configuration (2 x CR123 body)?

In other words, how can I avoid using this adapter?

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I just took out my Surefires and I rememberd all over again why the E to C adapter head sucks. There's absoltuely nothing to grip on so there's no way to remove it. My C head, the lamp inside, and the adapter are stuck for life. Is there anyway I can run a LA for a C series head in a E2 configuration (2 x CR123 body)?

In other words, how can I avoid using this adapter?

Buy a C SureFire?

 

[Chrontius]

Find someone to machine six flats into the E2C for a wrench?

 

[sygyzy]

Both great ideas though because the adapter tapers (not sure if that's the right word, it inclines inward), this might be difficult. I just bought a generic body from Light Hound.