markr6
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2012
- Messages
- 9,258
About a month or less to wait!
To be fair, the main reason why this is the case is that the end-user is not expected to take cells out by themself. Flashlights and Ecigs are the notable exceptions but they're also considered enthusiast items with all the expected caveats (e.g. the lack of safety certifications that would allow suing the manufacturer for damage—the end-user assumes any and all risks and responsibilities). As such, the highest danger of using unprotected cells is experienced when the cell is not inside the device in question. An accidental short or a charging fault are rather common (especially if kids are involved) and very dangerous. Protection circuits don't safeguard from all kinds of damage or accidents, but they help minimize risks which are decidedly non-trivial. I won't try to convince anyone to do it one way or another, but this information is to be kept in mind when making decisions.Pretty much all consumer electronics use "unprotected" cells, and rely on the device's circuitry. Think of a typical device with a single 18650 cell, like my toothbrush. It doesn't have a cell with a wrapper covering a protection circuit--it uses an "unprotected" cell, and has charge/discharge circuits to protect it built into the toothbrush.
Assuming you can cool it down sufficiently to sustain maximum brightness—which is highly unlikely, mind you—you should get about 30 minutes with a 17.5 Wh battery (Samsung T48 4800 mAh) based on the spec limit of the LED (29 W). At room temperature it will start stepping down almost immediately, albeit very gradually, until it reaches its temperature target; this should happen within 10–20 minutes or so, depending on the ambient temperature and the mode you started at. I have revised my earlier estimates based on the fact that the lowest PID mode has 945 lm maximum brightness, meaning that one and any higher values are not considered sustainable under normal conditions. So, assuming a 17.5 Wh battery and ~900 lm at the thermal equilibrium point (which depends on ambient temperature), you'd be looking at 2–2.5 hours or so. Subtract about 13–15% of that runtime for a 4000 mAh battery (Samsung T40). The real-world runtime difference between T40 and T48 is expected to be less than the nominal 16.7% on the higher modes since the T40 has a more robust voltage curve, thus not sagging as much under heavy load.For the sc600 experts on here, what is the runtime and stepdown time likely to be on this new one at 3k Lm?
Well, if it's cold enough outside that my new SC700d can maintain 1500 lumens, then I'm staying inside : )
If anyone here has an SC600w IV Plus and is considering an SC700d and would kindly share their 2¢, your opinions are appreciated.
I don't think 10A will be enough to get 3000 lm .. you probably need around 20A max. cells.
XHP70.2 can't be good in any torch.
Let's be honest here, Nichia's "foothold" in the LED light market is really tiny... It all amounts to low-volume enthusiast-only lights. Nichia has no presence in consumer flashlights otherwise.As for "marrying itself to CREE" there are only a couple other emitter producers left now like Nichia that have a foot hold in the LED light market. What I wonder is are they ACTUALLY MADE BY CREE or are they cheap Chinese CREE knock offs?
I don't think 10A will be enough to get 3000 lm .. you probably need around 20A max. cells.
Going purely by the specs: XHP50 in your SC600Fd IV Plus is rated at 3 A at 6 V; XHP 70.2 in the SC700d is rated at 4.8 A at 6 V. So, with operating voltage being equal, in the worst case the new LED will demand a 4.8/3=1.6 times increased current draw on the battery, so 6×1.6=9.6 A. And indeed, unless you have a way to sustain the 3000 lm brightness, it will drop down very significantly.My old SC600Fd Plus draws 6A for 1500 lumens. This at least suggests a 12A draw for 3000 lumens on the SC700d. But if Zebralight has improved the circuitry on newer lights and/or the efficiency of the XHP70.2 is significantly better than the older XHP50 (likely), it is possible that the SC700d may draw proportionately less current than the SC600Fd Plus.
Non PID level is 358 for 5.1H with the 600, they're saying 583lm for this one, I'll wager that'll run about 4.2h off a 40T if they're testing the 600 with the VTC6.
Not sure if they're using the Sanyo 3500/10A cell, though. Odd the runtime specs don't mention battery any more, unless I'm just not seeing it.
The fet+1 driver kills it for me.You might want to look into the Firefles E07 as well. Like the SC700d, it's a 21700 light, high cri emitter options, compact. Its fet+1 driver isn't quite as efficient as zebralight's buck-boost drivers, but it will produce more light on its highest output as a result of the fet. Lower outputs should be relatively equivalent. The E07 comes with two different high cri options: nichia 219C 5000k 92 cri, and luminus sst20 4000k 95 cri.