Introducing ... "The Colossus"

A few of you who have been around for a while probably already knows that I have been on a quest to equalize the the margin between the high power incands and LED. Once per ounce, we the LED fan had own the game since the early Luxeon days, but for the race for total lumen count out the front have been a catchup race against my friend JimH since day one. Before, I used to think it's Mission Possible, but I can't resist the challenge.

=== History ===
Tri/Quad vs WA1274 ... / ... Feb 2005 ... / ... 400 lumen margin
Sephiroth vs WA1185 ... / ... May 2006 ... / ... 70 lumen margin
Elephant vs "The Torch"/USL ... / ... Jan 2008 ... / ... 480 lumen margin


... Now, with the incand experiencing the next inflection point with the use of soft start switch, high current Li-Ion battery, new use of OSRAM & Philips bulb and dedicated R&D from LuxLuther, SilverFox and so many others. This is have raised the bar to an all time new level. The closest solution we LED nuts have is what LedZepplin did for ~3000 lumens which is still far from par.

... Once and for all I want to the LED fans to take the lead, even for a one week period.

So I'm designing with a blank slate with no bar hold and unlimited budget with only the following criteria.
1) Sufficient surface area for 100W LED light.
2) Enough depth to utilize deep reflectors to provide LED throw.
3) Power source with enough capacity to deliver 30 minutes runtime.
4) Most importantly, it's a FLASHLIGHT!

Here're what I have in mind ...


=== Colossus LED Specs ===
Total Weight: 1600g
Power consumption: 100 Watts
Power pack: 43 Wh
Runtime: 25 minutes
Max Light Output: 5100+ lumens

To keep the game fair the host is also co-design by my friend JimH for incands use with his own criterias.
1) Configurabe power pack for high voltage & current
2) Minimal resistance drop between the batteries and switch/bulb
3) Whopping 4" (100mm) head with modamag custom reflector for maximum brightness.

=== Colossus Incan Specs ===
Total Weight: 1600g
Power consumption: 50-250 Watts (bulb dependent)
Power pack: 43 Wh


=== Design Highlights ===
1) Configurable "integrated" battery adapter
- User configurable between series or series/parallel
- Resistance < 0.1 Ohms (theoretically 0.0001 Ohms)
- Minimal part change for increasing power and capacity

2) 4" Reflector
- Designed for "ideal" amount of flow, flood and insane brightness.

3) 4" Head
- High surface area for heat dissipation
- Low weight for ease of use
- Compatible with M@g (the "common denominator")

4) Interchangeable parts.
- Any crucial part of the light may be removed and swap out to accomodate for future enhancement in LED/bulb, battery, switching technology, and head.

5) Last but not least, hi/low spring tailcap compression force to minimize battery damage.


=== Credit ===
Special thanx to all of the following individuals for filling my brain to bring this project to life.
a) McGizmo & Newbie for your insight in optics.
b) Burnt_Retina, FM and Skip (non CPF) for your insight in making the battery adapter[url].
c) Bogus for the suggestion of a tail cap switch and Lego recommendation for future design
c) JimH & cmacclel for the design review.


=== Help! ===
Now I need your help ... I want to make this an open source design in which the collaboration of the community to produce the ultimate large light. I will provide full detail of the design to anyone who wish to make the light on their own. I invite you to review the current design and provide any inputs to better improve the design. Regardless of comments or criticism, every opinion are welcome.
I know there are ALOT of bright minds out there in CPF. I would like to pick your brain if you're willing.

It will be another two months before I send this design to the shop for fabrication, so we have from now until then to make any changes.

Here are a few questions that are currently still unresolved.

1) Head design
a) simple horizontal groove with wide spacing (per JimH)
b) groove & slot, very aggressive (SHARP! hard to debur)
c) flat nothing at all

2) Tail cap design, what do you prefer:
a) Simplicity, with multiple spring compression force (current design)
b) High current tail cap switch
c) Charging plug (keep in mind the balancing issue)
d) The works! Anti-Roll, High Current TC switch, charging plug.

3) How many series stack of battery should be standard
a) 1 & 2 (4x & 8x 18650 respectively)
b) 1, 2, 4
c) 1, 2, 4, 5
d) others

4) Crezenated bezel or not? Personally I don't have a affinity toward them.

Jonathon, this is a fantastic idea! I can't wait to see what you come up with. My only hope is that it's not too far outta my budget to get on the train with you. I'm saving my pennies to add a mill to my shop.

With the tail cap switch wouldn't that eliminate the use of many of the multi-level drivers? I'd prefer to have a side switch personally.

Jonathan - I know it's not a sign-up, but I'm IN! :twothumbs What a great concept!

Mods, can you lock down the incan forum? It's done. :laughing: :duck: :wave: (Just kidding)

:thumbsup: john

Imo, keep it simple.
For the designs, I agree with Jimh, simple horizontal grooves and keeping everything simple sound good...
Also, I've never liked crenelated bezels, but perhaps making small groves to see if the light is turned on while facing down can add functionality.

Now, down to business, does it come in black? Do you take amex? Can you accept human organs as payment?

Very interesting.

I love it! Colossus vs. Mammoth!

My choices:

Cross-hatched fin-n-groove, but with fewer of each than in your drawing. ie..larger raised surfaces.

Body switch in the neck.

Multiple body segment options, including 27mm bore for Emoli and A123 cells, and 33mm for D-sized Li-Ion packs.

Neck for D-Mag compatibility, both ways; Mag head on your neck and Mag tubes on your head.

Both bezels, screwed on.

Odds-n-Ends:

Make the head and reflector deeper, like an enlarged FM Throwmaster. This will help with multi-die leds.

Add a potentiometer to the neck, ala LED Zeppelin, for output control.

I'd like one in Ti, please.

Great idea Jonathan :twothumbs...:thumbsup:

Like MM said, a side-switch is essential due to the driver connection.
It would be also more comfortable in this weight-/size class.

Best regards

____
Tom

Count me in! :twothumbs

Side switch and tailcap switch. Side switch should be offered as on/off switch or momentary push button (for use with taskled drivers; tailcap switch can then be used as on/off switch).

Switch housing should be made out of brass. This would allow making switch/driver modules with the driver heatsinked to the switch housing.

Both normal and crenulated bezels please.

Jonthan, that looks great!

My preference is for the simple horizontal finned head designed for max. heat dissipation, side switch (tail swith really make a light of this size a 2-handed operation), at least 4 stacks of cells for 14.8 V operation, and flat or just slightly scalloped bezel.

If the goal is to be able to build an incan-besting LED light, there are some challenges beyond producing Colossus.

With the current crop of drivers, Vout is limited to 22-26 depending on whose are used. The Sharks are nice and compact, and you can fit 3 on sinks with a pot in the neck, all mounted in the same plane. There is possibly room to fit another layer, but not if the LED heatsink has a shoulder protruding into the tube as your PXR19 or my MD sinks do, and the sink/head/tube are jammed together for full contact.

Without a pot, you could fit 4 Sharks , and maybe a Remora, but the Remora would have to be floating and stuffed in the center. It would be tight.

Barring a new super boost converter (which will most certainly be larger), a bit of additional room between the side switch and head would give additional space for more boards, but be unnecessary for incan use. If you can fit another layer of Sharks, you could fit (7) Sharks and a pot, and get 150 Watts easily.

My Trinity mod draws about 80 Watts through 3 Sharks, and runs well with bottom and topside heatsinking of the Sharks. I think that is approaching the max. you can extract from 3 Sharks.

The best solution is to use drivers with more muscle, which are hopefully on the drawing board but not yet available, as long as they are realtively compact.

The LED heatsink would need to be beefy. Do you have plans to offer sinks as well? I could take head and produce LED/reflector-specific sinks as I did with the Moby **** heatsinks, but it's not an ideal route and not as cost effective as you could do from the start.

Talking Sharks, I'm partial to a dimming pot. The thread size of the 20 K log pots I use is M9 X 0.75. Donn mentioned having the pot as an option, but adding it later is rather simple, if you have the rare tap. For proper driving and dimming of the LEDs, and assuming you're near the 26 V ceiling of the Sharks, you'll want a 14.8 V cell solution, 4s. Going with 5s would give more runtime and easier converter boost, but dimming would not be full. However, if there are new boards produced with higher max. Vout, 5s would likely be a better choice.

Now, my real question. I read and re-read your post, and though it is clear you plan on producing Colossus, you do not state whether it will be produced in numbers greater than one. You do offer the design for us to produce our own. Will you be offering Colossus as a host for others?

.




My $'s are in



:thumbsup:

.

Jonathan-
This is a great undertaking. I'm in.
I've cast my vote. I know from the Draco/Drake project that you'll offer all the options anyway!

1-b
2-d
3-a but options to add more
4-crenullated but nothing crazy. Just a peep hole for head stead.

T

oh my $$ wil soon gone!

modamag said:

...I have been on a quest to equalize the the margin between the high power incands and LED. Once per ounce, we the LED fan had own the game since the early Luxeon days, but for the race for total lumen count out the front have been a catchup race against my friend JimH since day one. Before, I used to think it's Mission Possible, but I can't resist the challenge.

... Now, with the incand experiencing the next inflection point with the use of soft start switch, high current Li-Ion battery, new use of OSRAM & Philips bulb and dedicated R&D from LuxLuthor, SilverFox and so many others. This is have raised the bar to an all time new level. The closest solution we LED nuts have is what LedZepplin did for ~3000 lumens which is still far from par.

... Once and for all I want to the LED fans to take the lead, even for a one week period.

Click to expand...

Just so you can keep a proper perspective, I have thrown down a new incan gauntlet for you to overcome. :devil: LOL!

This is the bulb I used in my "Vaporizer."

Cool Project!

I don't know if it can be done, but I've seen some CRAZY stuff recently with the the LedZep mods. I hope Wayne and George see what we want, and come up with a new series of Mega Drivers for us nutty flashlight guys!

I like your designs, but to keep it truly original, I'd work on your head design to make it less FM like. Max heat dissipation is key, and can only be done with a lot of surface area, thin, deep, multiple grooves.

I can't wait to see the results!

I want a Colossus(modamag) Vaporizer(LuxLuther). As close as I can figure based on Lux's numbers, that should yield approximately 9000 lumens out the front.

I, personally, prefer vertical fins, bit I think fivemega achieved as close to perfection as is possible with his original FM 3V head. I can't imagine any vertical fin design that I would like as much, much less more.

Consequently any vertical fin design would be compared to the original FM 3V, and, unfortunately, come in second. In my opinion, even his subsequent vertical fin designs come in second. How do you get better than perfect?

I think one would be better advised to try to make his mark with a bold, kick ***, horizontal fin design.

My answers to the poll:
1) Head design
a) simple horizontal groove with wide spacing (per JimH)

2) Tail cap design, what do you prefer:
a) Simplicity, with multiple spring compression force (current design)

3) How many series stack of battery should be standard
b) 1, 2, 4


4) Crezenated bezel or not? Personally I don't have a affinity toward them.
NOT

Jonathan - An open source, community driven light. What an outstanding idea.:thumbsup: And what a great response thus far from some of our most seasoned experts. :twothumbs

My choices from your options list are:

- Head design - a) simple horizontal groove with wide spacing;
- Tail cap design a) Simplicity, with multiple spring compression force;
- How many series stack of battery should be standard - a) 1 & 2;
- Crezenated bezel or not? Not.

The only other thing that I can add is - I AM IN

Kirk

This is a great idea. Any possible ballpark for pricing? I'd love a 5000+ Lumen LED! I think Head A looks great, and Tailcap A looks great. Crenulated bezel would add a unique touch. Thanks for your hard work!

Hmmm, looking like a short vacation this year...



Karl

That looks nice. A feature I have never seen is a light with a bezel that is threaded so a person could screw in photographic filters. Seems as that would be a selling point. Another feature should be the glass. I beleive it is called Borofloat, it is a very clear pyrex glass.

JimH said:

I want a Colossus(modamag) Vaporizer(LuxLuther). As close as I can figure based on Lux's numbers, that should yield approximately 9000 lumens out the front.

I, personally, prefer vertical fins, bit I think fivemega achieved as close to perfection as is possible with his original FM 3V head. I can't imagine any vertical fin design that I would like as much, much less more.

Consequently any vertical fin design would be compared to the original FM 3V, and, unfortunately, come in second. In my opinion, even his subsequent vertical fin designs come in second. How do you get better than perfect?

Click to expand...

You are figuring the 65% conversion for Torch lumens? I'm going to be trying the 275W GE FNT and the 400W bulbs.

I used that 3.5" head because it had a wider bulb opening for the 250W bulbs. That raises another question....given the waning FM 3" Head supplies, and Delghi's long delay in getting reflectors from Carley...what reflector source for a parallel incan setup if Jonathan is making that also?